HINTS  AND  POINTS 


FOR    SPORTSMEN. 


COMPILED    BY    "SENECA." 

Jl 
U).  U).    r-a 


NEW  YORK: 

FOREST  AND  STREAM  PUBLISHING  COMPANY. 
1891. 

Copyright,  1889,  by  the  Forest  and  Stream  Publishing  Co. 


INDEX. 


Aim  at  Flying  Game 38 

Aim  at  Flying  Targets 33 

Aiming,  Hunting  Rifle 73 

Aiming  Practice 31 

Aiming,  Rifle  Practice 72 

Alcohol  Stoves 363 

All-Round  Guns 96 

All-Round  Rifle  97 

Angler's  Knot,  Bowline 323 

Arm,  Broken.  516 

Arm,  Wounded 511 

Autumn  Leaves,  Preserving. 6 JO 

Backing 435 

Bags,  Waterproof.  400 

Bait,  Carp 244 

Bait,  Black  Chub 238 

Bait,  Clam 250 

Bait,  Earth  Worm 240 

Bait  for  Trout,  Mice .  .242 

Bait,  Grasshopper. ...  239 

Bait,  Home-made 243 

Bait,  Live 251 

Bait,  Lobster 247 

Bait,  Pike 245 

Bait,  Raw  Beef.. 241 

Bait,  Sand  worm 2l9 

Bait,  Shedder  Crabs 246 

Bait,  Shrimp 248 

Baiting  Steel  Traps 195 

Baking  Powder 385 

Balance  of  Gun 54 

Ballast,  Care  of .461 

Barrel,  Keep  Clean 74 

Barrel,  Leaded 11 

Barrel,  Length 53 

Barrels,  Bluing 91 

Bay  Bird  Shooting 186 

Bay  Bird  Shooting  Blinds. . .  .183 

Bay  Bird  Stools 184 

Bay  Bird  Stooling 185 

BeeStings 497 

Bird  About  Alight 127 

Bird  Coming  Head  On 128 

Birds'  Flight 117 

Birds  Harked  Down  135 

Birds,  Marking  Down 134 

Birds,  Moulting 602 

Birds  Rising  to  Flight 126 

Birds'  Speed 118 

Birds,  To  Cook  Small 204 


Birds,  To  Preserve  Dead 188 

Biscuit,  Maryland 381 

Bite  of  Mad  Dog 4£6 

Bite  of  Snake 498 

Black  Bass  Chub  Bait. .......  238 

Black  Bass  Flies 218 

Black  Bass  Fly-Fishing 214 

Black  Bass  in  Pairs 221 

Black  Bass  in  Still  Water. ...  220 
Black  Bass  Minnow  Fishing. 217 
Black  Bass,  Large  -  Mouth 

and  Small-Mouth 581 

Black  Bass,  Size,  Weight.319-320 

Black  Bass  Striking 215 

Black  Bass,  to  Play 216 

Black  Bass  Trolling 219 

Black  Bass,  Viscera  of 580 

Bleaching  Sails. , 450 

Bleeding  Fish , 333 

Bleeding  from  the  Nose 492 

Blinds  for  Bay  Birds 183 

Blistered  Feet 489 

Bluing  Barrels 91 

Boats'  Bottoms,  Pot-ieading..449 
Boat  Built  in  T  lire -a  Hours. .  .482 

Boat  for  Live  Bait  309 

Boats,  How  to  Clean 446 

Boats  in  Winter 451 

Boat  Tent 481 

Boats,  Varnishing  447 

Boarding  a  Yacht 477 

Bob  for  Eels 234, 236 

Boots,  Stiff 404 

Boots,  Waterproof 198 

Boots,  Wet 405 

Bowline  Knot 455 

Boxing  the  Compass 467 

Brass  Shells,  Cleaning. 12 

Broken  Limbs 515 

Broken  Rod  Guides . .  .286 

Browning  Gun  Barrels 66 

Bruises 505 

Buckshot  in  Chokebores 40 

Buckshot  in  Cylinder-Bores..  45 

Bullets 77,  &8,79 

Bullet,  Split 566 

Bullet,  Tubular 567 

Buo  ys  471 

Burns 506 

Butter  in  Camp 388 

Butt,  Hold  Firmly ....  42 


INDEX. 


iii 


Camp  Cooking 586 

Camp  Cooking  Range  —   . .  .359 

CampFire 343,344= 

Camp  Hints  584 

Camp  Lodge 34T 

Camp  Outfit . .  .337,  J]4L 

CampOven. 364 

CampSite 343,590 

Camp  Spring  Bed 351 

Camp  Stove 360 

Canned  Goods  387 

Canned  Soups 386 

Canvas  Boats, Waterproofing  480 

Canvas  Canoe 478 

Canvas  Canoes,  Paint 479 

Cape,  Waterproof , 594= 

CarpasBait 244 

Carp  Fishing 227,  228,  229 

Carrying  Gun ....  101 

Cartridge,  Creased 561 

Cartridge,  Indented 560 

Cartridges,  Loose  Shot  in. ...  57 

Cartridge,  Reamed 559 

Cartridge,  Rifle 564 

Cartridges,  Wire0. 47 

Cartridges,  Wood  Powder  . .  .558 
Casting  Against  the  Wind. .  .272 

Casting  Line  Knot 324 

Casting  Line  Fly  Loop 325 

Casting  Minnow 281 

Cast,  How  to  Rig 260 

Casting  Sidewise. 273 

Caution  in  Fly-Fishing 273 

Cement,  Rubber 392,  31:3 

Chapped  Hands 488 

Cnargesand  Patterns 113 

Charges,  Chamberlin 114 

Charges  for  6-Gauere 115 

Charges  for  10-Gauge Ill 

Charges  for  12-Gauge 113 

Charges  for  Small  Gauges 110 

Charges,  Proportionate 23 

Chilled  Shot 116 

Chokebore 50 

Chumming .  230 

Chumming  Fish  Oil 231 

Clam  Bait 250 

Clam  Chowder 371 

Cleaning  a  Foul  Gun 10 

Cleaning  Brass  Shells 12 

Cleaning  Cutlery 330 

Cleaning  Rod.... 9 

Clothing  for  Camp 338 

Clothes,  Hunting. 98 

Coffee "65 

Cold  Tea .408,  585 

ColdFeet 490 

Collar  Bone  Broken. ...   520 

Color  of  Leaders 276 

Compass  in  the  Woodn 492 

Cooking  Utensils  for  Camp. .  .339 


Cooking    Vegetables,     Time 

Table 370 

Cooling  Heated  Guns 55 

Cordage  Fabrics,  Watei  proof  399 

Cork  Floats 303 

Cornmeal  Mush 378 

Cover  Shooting  with  Rifle..  ..149 

Crabs,  To  Preserve 256 

Cramps 504 

Crawfish  Bait 576 

Crawfish,  To  Preserve 255 

Crook  of  Stock 52 

Cure-all 485 

Dead-falls 194 

Decoys 177 

Decoys,  Diving 180 

Decoy  Ducks,  Live 179 

Decoys,  Paint  for 178 

Deer  and  Moonlight 158 

Deer,  Dead 156 

Deer  Dead  in  Water 157 

Deer,  Hanging  up 159 

Deer,  Hounding  153 

Deer,  Slow  Tracking 155 

Deer,  Still-hunting 154 

Dew  Claws,  Removing ...  .421 

Diarrhoea 491 

Dish  Washing 391 

Dislocations 502 

Distance  in  Shooting 36 

Diving  Decoys 180 

DobsonBait £35 

Dog 103 

Dog  Breeding 431 

Dogs,  Breaking  in 443 

Dog  Breaking  Shot 444 

Dog,  Care  of  Pups 410 

Dog  Chasing 445 

Dog,  Chicken  Killing  H  ibiL.417 

Dogs,  Cockers,  Care  of 414 

Dogs,  Cockers,  Training 415 

Dogs,  Distemper 428 

Dogs,  Emetic  for  423 

Dogs,  False  Pointing 442 

Dogs,  Feeding  Pups  411 

Dogs'  Feet 420 

Dogs,  Fleas  and  Lice 439,  595 

Dogs,  Fighting 432 

Dog,  Gun  Shy 5,~2 

Dog,  Gun  Shyness 41C>,  572 

Dogs  in  the  Field 409 

Dog,  Mad 498 

Dogs,  Mange  in  427 

Dog,  Mursing  Sick 423 

Dog,  Obedience 440 

Dog  on  Chain 569 

Dog,  Pace  in  Field  Work 434 

Dogs,  Poisoned 428 

Dog,  Quartering 439 

Dogs  Ranging  in  Field 43$ 


iv 


INDEX. 


Dogs,  Remedies  for  Fleas  and 

Lice  on 596 

Dog,  Retrieving 441 

Dog  Rules  for  Field  Trials... 433 

Dog,  Staunchness 437 

Dog,  Style  in  Field 436 

Dogs,  Teaching  Pups  to  Take 

to  Water 412 

Dog's  Temperature 568 

Dog,  To  Kill  Humanely 570 

Dog,  To  Give  Pills 424= 

Dog  Whip,  The 2?9 

Dog,  Worms  in  Puppies 413 

"Don't" 68 

Droppers,  How  to  Attach ....  262 

Dubbing 531 

DuckCall 167 

Ducks,  Edible  Species 175 

Ducks,  Fish- Eating 3*2 

Ducks,  Flight  of 172, 173 

Ducks,  Power  of  Scent 174 

Duck  Shooting 171 

Ducks,  Shooting  Blinds  for.  .176 

Ducks,  Toling 1H1 

Dye  for  Leaders 291 

Dyeiug  Lines 290 

Earthworm  Bait ....  240 

Edible  Species  of  Duck .175 

Eel,  How  to  Hold 813 

Eels,  How  to  Skin 314,  815 

EightBells 465 

Emetic ....486 

Estimating  Distance 146 


Fair  Weather  Indications.   . .335 
Fastening  and  Wrapp '  g  Fliog .  547 

Feet,  Blistered 4-3 

Feet,  Cold 4CO 

Fence  Climbing  102 

Ferns,  Preserving. 598 

Field  Manners , 99 

Field  Trial  Rules 133 

File,  Carry  a .' .305 

Fire  for  Cooking 358 

Fire,  Lighting  with  a  Gun. .  .403 

Fish  After  Storm 208 

Fish,  Bleeding 333 

Fish  Box,  Permanent 310 

Fish,  Broiling. S68 

Fish  Fin  Wound 514 

Fish,  Fried 369 

Fish,  Frozen ....383 

Fish,  Haunts  of 215 

Fish,  How  to  Kill 812 

Fi^h  in  Spring. 209 

Fish,  Kill  When  Caught. ...  311 

Fish  Lie  Preventive . .  321 

Fish  Oil  in  Chumming 231 

Fish  on  Clear  Days 2U3 

Fish  on  Cold  Days 207 


Fish,  Parts  of 578,  579 

Fish,  Planked 370 

Fish,  Size  and  Weight. .......  317 

Fish  Stringer .330 

Fishing  and  the  Moon 211 

Fishing,  Black  Bass . . 217 

Fishing,  Carp.. 227,  228,  229 

Fish,  How  to  Play 212 

Fishing,  Lake  Trout 222 

Fishing  Outfit 300 

Fishing  Raft 308 

Fishing,  Rock  Bass 226 

Fishing,  the  Sun's  Position... 210 

Five-Knot  Breeze 468 

Fleas  and  Lice  on  Dogs.  .595,  596 

Flies  for  Bass .218 

Flies,  Salmon. 548 

Flies,  To  Attach .  ..327 

Flight  of  Ducks 172, 173 

Floaty  Cork 303 

Flock  Shooting 125 

Fly-Books,  Moths  in  301 

Fly-Casting  Lessons 269 

Fly-Casting  Strike 271 

Fly- Fishing,  Points  in 270 

Fly-Fishing,  Caution  in 278 

Fly-Fishin  ,'  for  Bass 214 

Fly-Fishing  in  Smooth  Water280 
Fiy-Fishing,  Landing  Nets. .  .279 

Fly,  How  to  Sink  277 

5    Fly  Loop  and  Casting  Line..  .325 

5    Fly,  Nicholson 550 

"    Fly,  Parts  of  the  Salmon 549 

Fly  Philosophy 274 

Fly-Rod  Material,  Compara- 
tive Weights 316 

Fly,  Size  of 275 

Fly-Tying 552 

Folding  Cooking  Range 362 

Foot  Gear  for  tne  Woods 406 

Forearm,  Broken.  517 

Fowler's  Terms 192 

Foxes,  Trap  for 199,200 

Fractured  Gut 294 

Frost  Bite 508 

Fumigating  Kennels.. .  419 


Game  by  Express 191 

Game  in  Camp 588 

Game  in  General 95 

Game,  Loads  for „ . .  556 

Game,  Roasting 373 

Game,  Stewed 372 

Game,  To  Keep 587 

Game,  To  Par-k 589 

Game,  To  Preserve  Dead.. . .  189 

Gauge,  Large 51 

Gauge  Numbers 64 

Geta  Doctor 453 

Gimping  Hooks. . .   265 

Grasshopper  Bait. 239 


INDEX. 


Grounding 470 

Grouse,  Loads  for 109 

Grouse,  Pinnated 160 

<4rouse,  Ruffed 161 

Grouse,  Treeing 163 

Gun,  All-Round 96 

Gun,  Balance  of 54 

Gun  Barrel  Browning 66 

Gun,  Care  of 8 

Gun,  Carrying ...  101 

Gun  Cleaner  for  the  Field. . .  .555 

Gun,  Cleaning 10 

Guns,Cooling  Heated 55 

Gun,Fitofa ..    4 

Gun  Locks 13 

Gun,  Parts 22 

Guns,  Small-Gauge  Charges.  110 

Guns,  6-Gauge  Charges 115 

Guns,  10-Gauge  Charges  .,.  ..Ill 

Guns,  12-Gauge  Charges 113 

Gun,  To  Carry 2 

Gun,  To  Choose 1 

Gun,  To  Make  Scatter 49 

Gun,  To  Handle 3 

Gut 529 

Gut,  Fractured 294 

Gut,  Never  Use  Dry 328 

Gut,  Preserving 292 

Gut,  Rusted 293 

Gut,  To  Soften 295 

Hackles...  ...532 

Hackles,  Palmer 538 

Hackle,  How  to  Tie 535 

Hackle  with  Tinsel 536 

Hands,  Chapped 488 

Hand,  Wounded 510 

Handy  Tool 401 

Hanging  up  a  Deer 159 

Hatchet,  Hunting 611 

Haunts  for  Fish 205 

Head,  Wounded 513 

Heaving  the  Hand  Lead. . .  .  .464 
Hillside  Shooting  with  Rifle.  145 

Holding  Ahead 32, 122 

Home-made  Bait 243 

Hooking  Minnow  Bait 257 

Hooks 331 

Hooks,  How  to  Snell.265,  268,  267 

Hooks,  Shape  of. 528 

Hooks,  Snooding 268 

Horse,  to  Kill  Humanely 571 

Hounding  Deer 153 

Hunting  Clothes 98 

Hunting  Hatchet 611 

Hunting  in  Company 100 

Hunting  Rifle  Qualifications.  69 

Ice  Yacht,  To  Build 606 

Ignition  of  Powder 90 

Insect  Hood,  Shanty-made . .  .600 


Insect  Repellent 354,  355 

Ivy  Poison 493,  494 

Jerked  Venison 384 

Johnny  Cake ....379 

Kennel  and  Yard,  Plan. 418 

Kennel,  Fumigating 419 

Kennels,  Care  of 597 

Killing  a  Wounded  Bird 187 

Killing  Fish 312 

Kinking  Lines., 300 

Knot 609 

Knot,  Anchor 459 

Knot  for  Casting  Lines 324 

Knot  for  Snood  Loops 261 

Knot,  Square  or  Reef 456 

Lake  Trolling...  ...223 

Lake  Trout  Fishing 222 

Landing  Net  for  Fly-Fish  ing. 279 

Leaded  Barrels 11 

Leaders,  Color  of  276 

Leaders,  How  to  Dye 291 

Leaks,  To  Stop 473 

Leather  .Waterproof 397 

Leaves,  Preserving 599 

Leg,  Broken 519 

Leg,  Wounded  512 

Length  of  Barrels 53 

Lessons  in  Fly-Casting 269 

Lice 429 

Life  Preservers 610 

Lights  on  Boats 476 

Limbs  Broken 515 

Linen,  Waterproofing 396 

Line,  How  to  Waterproof . . . .  2P7 

Lines,  How  to  Attach 327 

Lines,  How  to  Dye 290 

Lines,  Kinking 300 

Line  of  Sight 82 

Live  Bait... 251 

Live  Bait  Boat 309 

Live  Decoy  Ducks 179 

Loading 7 

Loading  for  Grouse  Shooting  109 

Loading  the  Rifle 70 

Locks,  Dirty 14 

Loons,  Shooting .165 

Loose  Shot  in  Cartridges — <  57 
Lures  for  Duck  Shooting.. . . .  176 

Match  Safe 591 

Materials  for  Fly-Making  ...  525 

Materials  for  Salmon  Fly 551 

Magazine  Rifles  on  Game — 142 

Marking  Down  Birds 134 

Measuring  Gun  Stocks 63 

Measure,  Powder 65 

Medicines,  Dog,  to  Adminis- 
ter  435 


VI 


INDEX. 


Mice  for  Trout 342 

Mildewed  Tents 304 

MinkTrap    197,198 

Minnow  Bait,  How  to  Hook .  .257 

McManus  Sea  Anchor 475 

Minnow-Casting 281 

Minnow  Decoys 258 

Minnow  Fishing  for  Bass 217 

Minnows,  Kept  in  Fruit  Jars  254 

Minnow  Life  Preserver 583 

Minnow  Net,  Pocket 307 

Minnows,  Preserving 252,  253 

Mosquito  Gauntlets 353 

Mosquito  Net  for  Head 352 

Mosquito  Preventive 593 

Mosquito  Proof  Tent    3SO 

Mosquito  Smudge     353,  357 

Moths  in  Fly-Books.  301 

Muscles,  Ruptured 503 

Net,  How  to  Preserve  302 

Net  for  Minnow 307 

Nicholson  Fly 550 

Night  Shelter 345 

Nose  Bleeding 493 

Oil  for  Stocks 16 

Oil  Stove 3'JL 

Oil  Vegetable 15 

Ornithologists'  Terms 001 

Otter,  Trap  for 2U1 

Otter  Trapping 573,  574,  575 

Otter  Trapping  in  Winter.. .  .202 

Outfit  for  Camp 337 

Oven  for  Camp. 364 

Over -Shooting  Game   with 
Rifle 147 

Paint  for  Canvas  Canoes. 479 

Paint  for  Decoys 178 

Paint  or  Putty,  To  Remove.  .448 

Pattern 25 

Pattern  Test  37 

Penetration  Test 23 

Perch  on  the  Fly. 2.24 

Pickerel  Fishing  through  Ice.233 

Pickerel  Trolling. 232 

Pinnated  Grouse 160 

Pistols 93 

Pistol  Practice 94 

Playing  a  Fish  213 

Playing  a  Bass 216 

Point-Blank 84,  85,  88,  87,  83 

Points  in  Fly-Fishing 270 

Poison  Ivy 493,  494 

Poisoning  from  Poison  Su- 
mac..   495 

Pork  and  Beans. 374 

Port : 403 

Position  of  the  Keel 382 

Potatoes,  Roast 377 


Pot-Leading  Boats'  Bottoms. 449 

Powder  for  Rifle  76 

Powder 106 

Powder  Ignition 99 

Powder  Measure , C5 

Powder,  Smokeless 107 

Powder,  Too  Much 44 

Practice  for   Running  Rifle 

Shoes 139 

Practice  in  Aiming 72 

Practice  Shooting  .     30 

Preserving  Crabs 256 

Preserving  Dead  Birds 188 

Preserving  Frogs  and  Craw- 
fish  255 

Preserving  Gut 293 

Preserving  Killed  Game     ...  189 

Preserving  Minnows 352,  253 

Provisions  for  Camping 340 

Pull  of  Triggers 56 

Punt,  The 604 

Putting  Away  Rods 285 

Quail  Hunting 163 

Quail,  Weight  of '.  . .  .19J 

Raft  for  Fishing 308 

Rain  Indications. 33^ 

Range,  Folding 362 

Range  for  Camp  Cooking 359 

Range  of  Revolver 93 

Rat  Trap £03 

Raw  Beef  Bait 241 

Raw  Hides,  How  to  Cure.. . .  592 

Recoil 39 

Recoil  in  Rifles t-0 

Reef  Knot 456 

Reel  Line  and  Casting  Knot. 326 

Reel,  Position  of  283 

Restoring     tha     Apparently 

Drowned 523 

Revolver,  Range  of 93 

Rihs,  Broken 521 

Rifle,  All-Round 97 

Rifle  Budets 77 

Rifle,  Estimating  Distance...  146 

Rifle,  Hillside  Shooting 145 

Rifle     Hints     for     Shotgun 

Hu  nters 136 

Rifle,  Hunting,  Aiming  the  .   73 

Rifle  Loading 70 

Rifle,  Magazine,  on  Game....  143 

Rifle  on  Deer 150 

Rifle  on  Deers  and  Hares 153 

Rifle  on  Game  Down  Hill. ...  144 

Rifle,  O  vershooting 1 47 

Rifle  Positions,  Long  Range. 565 
Rifle  Practice    for  Running 

Shots 139 

Rifle,  Qualification  for  Hunt- 
ing   69 


INDEX. 


vii 


Rifle  Recoil,. 80 

Rifle  Shooting,  Windage  Al- 
lowance   81 

Rifle  Shooting 71 

Rifle  Shooting  at  Might 148 

Rifle  Shooting:,  Coolness  in. .  .141 

Rifle  Shooting  in  Cover 149 

Rifle  Sights  lor  Hunting 157 

Rifle,    Throwing    Ahead    of 

Game 138 

Rigging  the  Cast 260 

Rising  Shots 1£9 

Rock  Bass  Fishing 2^6 

Rod  Guides,  Broken 286 

Rods,  How  to  Put  Away 235 

Rod,  Varnish  for 287,  288 

Rods,  Varnishing 28!) 

Rod  with  Tight  Joints  284 

Ropes  and  Rigging 453 

Rubber  Cement 392,  393 

Ruffed  Grouse  Habits 101 

Rules  for  Sailing 474 

Running  Rifle  Shots  140 

Rust ,..  17 

Rust  Eradicator 21 

Rust  from  Salt  Air  or  Water.  19 

Rusted  Gut 293 

Rusty  Knives 389 

Rust  Preventive 18 

Rust,  Protection  Against 20 

Sails,  How  to  Bleach. 450 

Sail,  Parts  of 463 

Sailing  Rules 474 

Sailors'  Two  Half -hitch  Knot.454 

Salmon .213 

Salmon  Flies 548 

Salt  Pork,  Fried 367 

Sandwoi m  Bait 249 

Sawdust  ip  Kennels 430 

Scalds 507 

Scissors  in  Fly-Making 553 

Scow,  to  Build 603 

Sea  Anchor,  McManus 475 

Separating  Fighting  Do^s. . . . 433 

Shad  Fly 225 

Sheep-Shank 460 

Shed,  Camp 346 

Shedder  Crab  Bait  246 

Shedder  Lobster  Bait 247 

Sheet-Bend 458 

Sheet  Lead  Sinkers 3C4 

Shells 21 

Shells,  Crimping .563 

Shells,  Tight 554 

Shelter  for  the  Night 345 

Shiny  Powder 43 

Shoes,  Wading 407 

Shooting  at  Moving  Targets.  37 
Shooting  Beyond  Point  Blank  143 
Shooting  Bounding  Deer 151 


Shooting  Distance 36 

Shooting,  First  Lesson 5 

Shooting  Loons 165 

Shooting  on  the  Wing 119 

Shooting  one  Barrel 132 

Shooting  over  a  Pointing  Dog.133 

Shooting  Rifle 71 

Shooting,  Second  Lesson 6 

Shooting  Snipe 164 

Shoot  with  Both  Eyes  Open. .  34 

Shot 557 

Shot  Charge  Increasing 29 

Shot,  Chilled 116 

Shot  in  Rifles 89 

Shots  Right  or  Left 131 

Shots,  Rising 129 

Shots,  Sizes  of 67 

Shot,  Straightaway 130 

Shot,  Velocity  of 40 

Shot,  Velocity,  Different.  ...  41 

Shrimp  Bait 248 

Sight  in  Aiming 35 

Sights  for  Hunting  Rifle 137 

Silk   Line,    How   to    Water- 
proof  298,299 

Sinkboat 182,  607 

Sinkers,  Sheet  Lead 304 

Smk  the  Fly 277 

Size  of  Flies 275 

Size   and   Weight   of   Black 

Bass 319,320 

Size  and  Weight  of  Fish 317 

Sizes  of  Shot,  Table  67 

Skiff,  The ". 605 

Skinning  Eels 314,  315 

Skittering 237 

Slapjacks 380 

Sleeping  Bag .349 

Sleeping  Out 348 

Slow  Tracking  Deer 155 

Small  Birds,  To  Cook 204 

Smelt  Fishing 582 

Snake  Bite 498 

Sneakbox 608 

Snelling  Hooks 265,  266,  267 

Smudge  for  Mosquitoes.  .356,  357 

Snells,  flow  to  Soften 296 

Snipe  Shooting 164 

Snipe  Whistle 168 

Snooding  Hooks 268 

Snood  Loops  Knot 261 

Soften  Snells 296 

Soften  Silk  Gut 295 

Soup,  Canned 386 

Spars  in  Winter 452 

Speed  ofBirds 118 

Sprains 501 

Springing  a  Leak 472 

Springbed  for  Camp 351 

Square  or  Reef  Knot 456 

Starboard 463 


viii 


INDEX. 


Still-Hunting  Deer 154 

Stock,  Crook  of 52 

Stocking  Trout  Streams 339 

Stocks,  To  Color  ..  ..  60 

Stocks,  To  Color  Brown 61 

Stocks,  To  Measure . .  63 

Stocks,  Varnish  for 62 

Stomach,  Empty 484 

Stools  for  Bay  Birds 184 

Stoohng  Bay  Birds. 185 

Stopping  Leaks .473 

Stove,  Alcohol o63 

Stove  for  Camp 360 

Stove,  Oil 361 

Strike  in  Fly-Casting . .  271 

Striking  a  Black  Bass 215 

Sumac  Poison " 495 

Sunburn 4S7 

Sunstroke 500 

Sure  Bait  for  Pike 245 

Swelling  Rod  Joints 283 

Table  of  Charges   and   Pat- 
terns   113 

Table  of  Chamberlin  ChargeslU 
Table  Proportionate  Charges  2 

Tails  of  Flies 546 

Targets,  Creed  moor 563 

Targets    for    Cylinder    and 

Choke  Guns 26 

Target-Shooting,  Slow 75 

Tea 366,585 

Tents,  Mildewed 394 

Tent,  Mosquito  Proof. 350 

Tents,  Waterproofing 395 

Thigh,  Broken 518 

Tight  Wads 48 

Timber  Hitch 4r>7 

Tinsel 530 

Tight  Joints  in  Rod 284 

Toling  Ducks 181 

Tools  for  Fly-Making    524 

Trajectory. 83 

Traps,  Baiting  Steel 195 

Traps,  Clean 196 

Trap  for  Foxes 199,200 

Trap  for  Mink 197, 198 

Trap  for  Otter 201 

Trap  for  Rats 203 

Trapping  Otter 573 

Trapping  Otter,  Land  Set  ...  575 
Trapping  Otter,  Water  Set... 574 
Trapping  Otter  in  Winter. . .  .202 

Trapping  Season 193 

Treeing  Grouse 162 

Trespass 105 

Trigger  for    Running    Rifle 

Shots 140 

Triggers,  Pull  of 56 

Trolling  for  Bass 219 

Trolling  for  Lake  Trout 223 


Trolling  for  Pickerel 232 

Trout  Food 332 

Trout  Streams,  Stocking 32d 

Trout  Temperature 577 

Trout,  To  Presei  ve 318,  322 

Turkey  Calls 169, 170 

Tying  a  Hackle 535 

Unconsciousness     from     In- 
jury  499 

Varnish  for  Rods  . .  287,  288.  289 

Varnish  for  Stocks 62 

Vegetables 875 

Velocity  of  Shot 40,  41 

Velocity  of  Wind 469 

Venison,  Jerked 384 

Vise  for  Guns 59 

Wads,  Holding  in  Place 58 

Wads,  Home-Cut 108 

Wads,  Tight 48 

Washing  Dishes 391 

Watches 4CO 

Waterproof  Bags 400 

Waterproofing  Canvas  Beats  480 

Waterproof  for  Boots 198 

Waterproof  for  Cordage  Fa- 
brics  809 

Waterproof  for  Leather 397 

Waterproofing  Line. 297,  29<*,  299 

Waterproofing  Linen  HS6 

Waterproofing  Tents 895 

Wax 527 

Wax  for  Gut  Leader 264 

Wax  for  Snelling  Hooks 263 

Weight  of  Quail  and  Wood- 
cock   190 

Whistle  for  Snipe. 168 

Wind ]()4 

Wind  Indications 334 

Windage  Allowance 81 

Wings 533-540 

Wings  of  Flies..    539,  541,  542, 

543,  644,  545 

Wing  Shooting..  .119. 121, 123. 124 

Wing  Shots,  Missing. , 120 

Wire  Cartridges 47 

Work  Table .534 

Woodchuck ..166 

Woodcock,  Weight  of ISO 

Wounded  Arm 511 

Wounded  Bird,  To  Kill 187 

Wounded  Foot  or  Leg 512 

Wounded  Hand 510 

Wounded  Head  or  Face 513 

Wound  from  Fish  Fin 514 

Wounds fiOQ 

Wrapping  Silk 526 

Yachts,  How  to  Board 477 


CHAPTER   I. 

GUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 


SECTION    I.— THE    SHOTGUN 

1.  Choosing-  a  Gun. — Select  a  gun  accoHin^  to 
your  game.  For  wildfowl  only,  a  10-gauge,  91b.  gun, 
right  barrel  cylinder,  left  barrel  choked;  for  wildfowl 
and  smaller  birds,  select  a  lighter  gun,  preferably  a  12- 
gauge,  and  if  a  novice,  little  choke  is  needed  and  more 
"scatter."  Get  the  best  gun  your  purse  will  stand.  A 
cheap  gun  generally  makes  a  bad  shot  and  a  disgusted 
sportsman. 

2.  How  to  Carry  a  Grim.— The  safest  way  is  over 
the  right  shoulder,  with  muzzle  pointing  well  up.     The 
handiest  way  when  game  may  be  flushed  is  in  the  "hol- 
low" of  the  left  arm.     Never  carry  it  so  that  it  points 
toward  yourself,  your  friend  or  your  dog. 

3.  Handling  the  Gun.— 1st,  Never  in  excitement 
nor  in  fun  point  it  toward  any  human  being.    3d,  Never 
carry  it  so  that  if  accidentally  discharged  it  would  en- 
danger the  life  of  a  dog  even.     3d,  Always  think,  when 
walking,  which  way  your  gun  is  pointed,  and  if  a  com- 
panion is  in  the  field  with  you,  no  matter  how  near  and 


10  GUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 

how  temptingly  the  game  appears,  do  not  shoot  until  you 
know  just  where  he  is,  and  that  a  stray  shot  may  not 
possibly  strike  him,  for  one  little  pellet  is  sufficient  to 
destroy  an  eye  forever.  4th,  Never  get  into  a  wagon 
without  taking  the  cartridges  from  the  gun,  5th,  Never 
get  over  a  fence  without  either  taking  the  cartridges  out 
or  placing  the  gun  through  the  fence  on  the  ground,  so 
that  if  you  fall  or  the  fence  breaks  it  cannot  be  dis- 
charged. 6th,  Always  carry  the  gun  at  half-cock.  7th, 
Never  let  the  hammers  rest  on  the  ' 'plungers,"  or  pieces 
which  strike  the  cap.  8th,  Never  try  to  close  it  when 
the  hammers  are  down.  9th,  Never  get  in  front  of  it 
yourself.  If  you  see  you  are  about  to  fall,  drop  the  gun 
so  the  muzzle  will  be  from  you.  Occasionally  a  car- 
tridge will  stick  after  it  has  been  fired.  A  stout,  thin 
blade  of  a  knife  will  generally  extract  it,  if  not  remove 
the  other  cartridge,  and  then  cut  a  straight  stick  and 
poke  it  out  from  the  muzzle;  but  even  then  do  not  place 
your  body  in  front  of  it,  but  content  yourself  with  using 
the  hand.  10th,  After  firing  one  barrel  take  the  car- 
tridge from  the  other  and  examine  the  wad  over  the  shot 
to  see  that  it  is  not  loosened  by  the  concussion,  as  it  very 
frequently  is,  which  would  produce  a  heavy  recoil,  and, 
if  it  gets  up  the  barrel,  will  burst  the  gun,  and  likely 
take  a  hand  off  besides,  llth,  Never  take  hold  of  the 
muzzle  to  draw  it  toward  you,  nor  set  it  up,  when,  if 
falling,  its  muzzle  would  be  toward  you.  Finally,  follow 
all  these  suggestions  and  be  self-possessed,  and  the  fields 
will  afford  you  sport  without  danger,  and,  I  hope,  with- 
out temptation.—  HallocWs  Sportsman's  Gazetteer. 

4.  The  <'Fit"  of  a  Gun.— Throw  the  gun  to  the 

shoulder  as  if  to  fire  it.  If  the  eye  catches  the  center  of 
the  rib  and  the  bead  all  right,  the  gun  fits;  if  not,  the 
stock  is  too  straight  or  too  bent.  Another  important 
point  in  "fit"  is  the  length  of  the  stock.  You  can't  hit 
with  an  ill-fitting  gun. 


THE  SHOTGUN.  11 

5.  First  Lesson  in  Learning  to  Shoot. — Go  out 

by  yourself  where  you  can  put  up  some  object  about  the 
size  of  your  hat,  say  some  twenty  yards  away.  Then 
take  your  position  and  commence  to  throw  up  your  gun 
to  your  shoulder,  and,  keeping  your  eyes  open,  see  how 
near  you  can  bring  the  bead  in  line  with  your  eye  and 
the  object  at  the  instant  that  the  butt-plate  touches  your 
shoulder.  Try  this  a  'few  times  and  then  rest  a  few 
minutes.  Then  try  again,  but  do  not  fatigue  yourself. 
After  you  can  throw  the  gun  on  to  the  mark  with  your 
eyes  open,  shut  up  both  eyes  and  throw  the  gun  to  your 
shoulder  in  the  same  manner  as  before,  and  the  instant 
that  you  feel  the  butt  touch  your  shoulder  open  both  eyes 
and  see  where  your  gun  is  pointed.  Keep  up  this  practice 
until  you  can  throw  your  gun  into  line  with  any  object 
that  you  may  select,  whether  it  is  above,  below  or  on  the 
same  level  with  your  eyes. — "Iron  Ramrod." 

6.  Second  Lesson  in  Learning1  to  Shoot.— After 
you  are  perfected  to  a  satisfactory  degree  in  the  practice 
of  throwing  your  gun  up  to  some  object,  take  a  piece  of 
paper  about  two  feet  square,  and  with  some  tacks  fasten 
it  up  on  an  old  shed,  barn  or  old  building,  where  you  will 
do  no  damage,  and  then  step  back  twenty  or  thirty  steps 
and  load  your  gun,  cock  it  and  hold  it  in  position  with 
the  muzzle  toward  the  ground  at  an  angle  of  about  forty- 
five  degrees,     Fix  your  eyes  on  the  target,  shut  both  eyes 
and  instantly  throw  up  your  gun  and  fire,  keeping  your 
eyes  closed  until  after  the  discharge.     If  your  practice 
has  been  faithfully  performed  before  this  you  will  prob- 
ably find  the  paper  riddled  with  shot,  and  if  you  do  not 
you  will  readily  see  where  the  charge  did  strike,  which 
will  help  you  to  remedy  it  at  the  next  fire.     When  you 
can  hit  that  paper  (with  a  moderate  degree  of  certainty) 
with   your  eyes  closed  you  have  more  than  "half  the 
battle,"  for  you  have  mastered  the  "hang"  of  the  gun, 
and  the  rest  is  comparatively  easy. — "Iron  Ramrod." 


12  GUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 

7.  Loading. — Shake  powder  down,  then  put  a  thin 
grease-proof  wad  on  powder,  then  thick  felt  wad;  on  shot 
thin  card  board  wad,  and  push  firmly  into  position.     For 
open  pattern  turn  case  full  and  firmly,  for  close  pattern 
turn  it  only  slightly.     Be  sure  nothing  comes  in  contact 
with  the  cap  while  loading. 

8.  Care  of  Guns. — Never  let  a  gun  remain  dirty  over 
night,  no  matter  how  much  exertion  it  may  involve. 
Swab  it  out  first  with  warm  soap  suds,  after  which  it 
should  be  wiped  dry.     Then  it  should  be  thoroughly  rub- 
bed with  chamois  skin  or  cotton  flannel  soaked  in  gas- 
oline, turpentine,  benzine  or  kerosene,  which  will  remove 
any  particles  of  dirt  which  may  resist  the  water  and  soap. 
In  addition  to  this,  the  penetrating  qualities  of  these  vol- 
atile oils  are  such  that  they  sink  into  the  pores  of  the 
metal  and  act  as  a  rust  preventive.     The  last  operation  is 
a  good  rubbing  with  dry  chamois  skin.     If  the  gun  is  a 
comparatively  new  one,  it  should  be  kept  in  a  dry  room, 
and  occasionally  looked  at  and  rubbed  out  with  the  dry 
chamois;  if  it  has  been  in  use  some  time  and  is  pretty 
well  permeated  with  oil,  one  rubbing  out  two  or  three 
days  after  cleaning  will  be  sufficient.     On  the  locks  never 
use  anything  but  the  best  sperm  oil,  and  that  sparingly. 

9.  Cleaning  Rod.— Use  a  wooden    cleaning   rod. 
Jointed  cleaning  rods  are  handy  to  carry,  but  the  metal 
ferrules  are  apt  to  scratch. 

1C.  Cleaning  a  Foul  Gun.— To  clean  a  badly 
fouled  gun  insert  a  cork  in  the  breech  rather  tightly; 
next  pour  some  quicksilver  into  the  barrel,  shaking  it 
about  for  a  few  minutes.  The  mercury  and  lead  will 
form  an  amalgam  and  leave  the  barrel  perfectly  clean. 

11.  "Leaded"  Barrels.— Saturate  a  rag  with  bel- 
montyle  oil  and  rub  the  barrels  before  and  after  using 
and  when  put  away  for  the  day.  To  remove  leading, 
warm  the  barrels  slightly  and  anoint  with  mercurial 


THE  SHOTGUN.  13 

ointment.     This  will  form  an  amalgam  with  the  lead. 
Then  wipe  out  clean. 

12.  Cleaning  Brass  Shells.— Clean  the  outside  of 
brass  shells  with  a  cloth  and  vinegar.     Leave  the  inside 
dirty;  it  will  hold  the  wad  more  firmly. 

13.  Gun  Locks.— Don't  meddle  with  them  often. 
Use  only  sufficient  oil  to  lubricate;  if  too  much  oil  be 
used  it  will  gum  on  the  locks. 

14.  Oil  and  Dirt  on  Locks. — To  remove  gummed 
oil  and  dirt  on  gun  locks,  dip  a  tooth  brush  in  benzine  or 
naphtha  and  brush  lightly. 

15.  Vegetable    Oil. — Vegetable    oil   used  on  gun 
locks  is  liable  to  gum. 

1 6.  Oil  for  Stocks. — Use  raw,  not  boiled  linseed  oil 
on  gun  stocks. 

1 7.  Rust.—  Rust  in  gun  barrels  is  ferric  oxide,  formed 
by  oxygen  coming  in  contact  with  the  steel  and  settling 
around  minute  holes  in  its  surface.    If  not  at  once  eradi- 
cated these  small  rust  spots  will  go  on  continually  taking 
up  oxygen  and  consuming  the  steel. 

18.  Rust  Preventive. — Common  beef  tallow  (with- 
out salt)  is  a  capital  rust  preventive.     Apply  it  with  a 
flannel  cloth. 

1 9.  Rust  from  Salt  Air  or  Water.— To  prevent 
gun  barrels  from  rusting  when  hunting  on  or  near  salt 
water  apply  to  them  a  light  coat  of  thin  shellac  varnish. 

20.  Rust  Protective. — In  damp  climates  it  is  cus- 
tomary, in  putting  away  guns  for  the  close  season,  to 
plug  up  one  end  of  each  barrel  and  fill  with  melted  tal- 
low (free  from  salt),  then  wrap  up  in  paper  or  cloth  and 
set  away  as  far  from  the  ground  as  possible.     To  remove 
the  tallow  pour  warm  water  upon  the  outside  of  the 
barrels. 


14  QUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 

21.  Rust  Eradicator.— Rust  spots  in  barrels  may 
be  smoothed  out  with  emery  paste,  made  from  three  parts 
cosmoline,  or  oil,  and  one  part  emery.     Use  on  a  soft 
swab  which  fits  the  barrels  closely.     Then  apply  the  wire 
scratch  brush,  and  finally  wash  out  clean. 

22.  Parts  of  a  Gun.— Bolts— Irons  which  enter  the 
loops  or  eyes  of  the  barrel  to  fasten  it  to  the  stock.     Bri- 
dl'j— A  polished  piece  of  steel  which  caps  the  tumbler, 
and  is  secured  by  screws;  it  also  receives  the  scear  screw. 
Butt  of  stock — The  shouldered  extremity  of  the  stock. 
Cap — It  covers  the  ramrod  screw,  but,  of  course,  is  obso- 
lete in  the  breechloader.     Casting-off — The  outward  in- 
clination given  to  the  butt  of  the  gun,  being  intended  to 
incline  the  line  of  the  aim  inward.     Swivel — A  small 
catch  suspended  from  the  neck  of  the  tumbler  to  receive 
the  extremity  of  the  mainspring.     Cock — This  is  more 
freqently  called  the  striker  or  hammer.     Escutcheons — 
Ornamental  pieces  of  silver  to  prevent  the  bolts  from  de- 
facing the  stock  when  the  turnscrew  or  pincers  are  ap- 
plied; escutcheons  are  also  used  on  other  parts  to  receive 
initials,  crests,  shields,  etc.    Fal?e-breech — This  receives 
the  butt  or  nose  of  the  breech  when  the  barrel  is  fas- 
tened into  the  stock.     Fence— The  part  between  the  cock 
and  nipple  which  receives  the  solid  cock.     Guards — That 
which  defends  the  triggers.     Heel  plate— The  plate  with 
which  the  butt  of  the  stock  is  tipped.     Lock-plate — Sup- 
ports the  principal  works  of  the  lock.     Loops — Eyes  on 
the  outside  of  the  forepart  of  the  stock  which  receive  tho 
bolts  that  fasten  the  barrels  to  the  stock.     Mainspring — 
That  by  which  the  tumbler  is  worked  with  the  cock. 
Nipple,  or  pivot — The  small  iron  pillar  that  receives  the 
copper  cap;  the  latter,  however,  is  obsolete  in  breech- 
loaders.   Pipes — Tubes  to  receive  the  ramrod;  done  away 
with,  of  course,  in  breechloaders.     Rib — Central  piece  of 
iron  which  unites  the  barrels  and  receives  the  ramrod. 
Scroll-guard — An  extension  of  the  guard  which  receives 


THE  SHOTGUN.  15 

the  right  hand  in  firing  the  gun;  it  is  now  superseded  by 
the  pistol-handle  stock.  Scear — That  which  catches  the 
tumbler  for  half  or  whole  cock,  on  being  pushed  up  by 
the  trigger.  Scear-spring — The  spring  which  holds  the 
scear  in  the  notches  of  the  tumbler  at  either  half  or  whole 
cock.  Side-screw— A  screw  which  fastens  on  the  locks. 
Sight — A  patch  of  metal,  usually  of  silver,  placed  near 
the  gun  barrel  to  direct  the  aim.  Spring-cramp — A  use- 
ful instrument  to  assist  both  in  taking  to  pieces  and  put- 
ting together  the  parts  of  the  gun.  Tail,  tongue,  or  fin- 
ger— The  neck,  shoulder,  or  arch  of  lockhammer.  Top- 
rib — This- opposes  the  rib  which  unites  the  lower  arches  of 
the  barrels;  when  it  is  very  prominent  behind,  it  is 
called  the  elevated  rib.  Trigger  plate — The  trigger 
works  in  it.  Trigger  springs — Are  small  springs  met 
with  in  all  locks,  and  are  intended  to  keep  the  triggers 
close  to  the  scear.  Tumbler — The  movable  center-piece 
of  a  lock  which  falls  with  and  is  subservient  to  the  cock. 
Tumbler-screw — This  fastens  on  the  cock.  Vent  hole — 
Used  only  in  muzzleloaders,  are  intended  to  let  out  the 
gas,  and  are  supposed  to  lessen  recoil.  Worm — The  screw 
at  the  end  of  the  ramrod;  obsolete  in  breechloaders. — 
Land  and  Water. 

23.  Proportionate  Charges. — Major  H.  W.  Mer- 
rill has,  after  experiment,  prepared  the  following  table  of 
proportionate  charges  for  shotguns  of  different  gauge-% 
taking  as  a  unit  the  charge  of  3drs.  powder  and  loz.  shot 
for  a  14-bore.  The  ratios,  as  will  be  seen,  are  constant 
quantities  and  may  be  readily  used  to  construct  other 
tables,  and  having  more  or  less  powder  and  shot  accord- 
ing to  fancy.  Any  other  gauge  and  charge  than  14  may 
be  selected  as  a  unit  of  measure,  Having  found  the  ratios, 
they  are  to  be  multiplied  respectively  by  the  charge  of 
powder  and  shot  contained  in  the  charge  you  have  as- 
sumed as  correct  (and  the  unit),  this  will  give  all  the 
proportionate  charges. 


16 


GUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 


TABLE   OP  PROPORTIONATE  CHARGES    TOR   SHOTGUNS   OF   4   TO   16 

GAUGE  INCLUSIVE— TATHAM'S  STANDARD  SHOT  NO.  6. 


Gauge 
num- 
bers. 

Diame- 
ters of 
bores. 

Areas  of 
bores. 

Ratios  of 
the 
Areas. 

Loads  of 
powder, 
nearly. 
Drams. 

Loads  of 
shot, 
nearly. 
Ounces. 

No.  of 
pellets 
exactly. 

4 

108 

9137 

2.45 

7^ 

2716 

534 

5 

.99 

7693 

2.06 

6'5 

21  e 

449 

6 

.93 

6782 

1.83 

5^ 

m 

397 

7 

.89 

6217 

1.67 

5 

11*16 

364 

8 

.85 

5652 

1.51 

IH 

329 

9 

.82 

5275 

1.41 

4J4 

1^8 

307 

10 

.79 

4398 

1.31 

4 

156 

286 

11 

.76 

4521 

1.21 

3% 

I3  16 

264 

la 

.73 

4176 

1.12 

31^ 

m 

244 

13 

.71 

3956 

1.06 

3*5 

1*16 

231 

14 

.69 

3736 

1.00 

3 

1 

218 

15 

,67 

3516 

0.94 

245 

1516 

205 

16 

.65 

3228 

0.86 

2< 

14ie 

188 

24.  Shells. — Should  fit  the  chamber  in  length  as  well 
as  diameter. 

25.  Pattern. — It  is  impossible  to  fix  upon  any  one 
pattern  as  a  standard  by  which  to  gauge  the  shooting- 
qualities  of  individual  guns,  because  of  so  wide  a  diversity 
in  the  degree  of  choke.    We  have,  therefore,  selected  the 
two  extremes — a  cylinder  bore  and  a  very  full  chokebore 
—and  give  below  such  patterns  as  good  guns  of  each  class 
should  make.    Between  the  two  limits  of  110  for  cylinder 
and  240  for  extreme  choke  most  sportsmen  will  probably 
find  their  records  to  accord  with  the  divergence  of  their 
guns  from  these  two  bores.     A  cylinder  bore  gun  loaded 
with  lioz.  No.  7  shot  should  put  110  pellets  into  a  30-inch 
circle  at  40  yards.     An  extreme  chokebore  gun,  loaded 
with  l^oz.  of  No.  7  should  put  240  pellets  into  a  30-inch 
circle  at  40  yards.     A  good  chokebore,  such  as  we  pre- 
fer for  general  shooting,  should  put  between  180  and  200 
pellets  into  the  same  circle  under  the  same  conditions. 
There  is  a  golden  mean  in  pattern.     While  a  gun  that 
drives   its  shot  packed  like  a  bullet  requires  sure  aim, 


THE  SHOTGUN.  17 

and  a  big  score  with  it  counts  more  than  with  a  scattering 
chamber,  the  game  is  terribly  mutilated  and  butchered. 

26.  Targets    for    Cylinder   and    Chokebore 
Guns. — A  cylinder  bore  loaded  with  l^oz.  No.  7  shot 
should  put  110  pellets  into  a  30-inch  circle  at  40  yards. 
An  extreme  chokebore  gun,  loaded  with  l^oz.  of  No.  7 
shot  should  put  240  pellets  into  a  30-inch  circle  at  40  yards. 
A    good  chokebore,  for  general    shooting,   should   put 
between  180  and  200  pellets  into  the  same  circle  under 
the  same  conditions.    The  patterns  given  above  are  with 
the  following  charges  of  powder: 

Twelve-Bore.  Ten-Bore. 

Pounds.  Drams.  Pounds.  .     Drams. 

6J^  to  7   2^  to  3      7M  to  8  ........,$f 

7  to  7^ 3  to  3^     8  to  8^ 3^  to  4 

7^to%.... 3^  to  4      8^  to  9  4 

9  to  10^  4  to  5 

27.  Pattern  Tests. — To  ascertain  how  close  and 
even  your  gun  shoots,  obtain  a  number  of  sheets  of  ma- 
nilla  paper,  on  each  of  which  draw  a  circle  30  inches 
in  diameter.  Then  at  40  yards'  range  and  a  fixed  rest  find 
out  the  number  of  shot  you  can  put  into  the  circle,  using 
each  time  a  different  load,  varying  the  amounts  of  pow- 
der and  shot,  respectively,  the  make  of  powder,  number 
of,  and  kind  of  wads,  etc.     When  you  have  discovered 
the  best  load,  stick  to  it  always,  unless  pattern  is  obtained 
at  the  expense  of  penetration.    It  is  advisable,  too,  to  in- 
crease penetration  by  reducing  the  charge  of  shot  or  in- 
creasing charge  of  powder.    One  pellet,  sent  with  suffi- 
cient force,  will  kill  where  half  a  dozen  may  hit,  but 
without  enough  force  to  penetrate  to  a  vital  point.  When 
three-fourths  of  the  number  of  shot  in  a  charge  can  be 
put  into  a  30-inch  circle  at  40  yards  the  gun  shoots  close 
enough  for  ordinary  work.     When  the  guns  are  tested  in 
the  open  air  a  sheet  of  paper  4  feet  square  at  40  yards 
should  receive  the  charge,  and  a  30-inch  selected  circle 
marked  out  on  it  after  every  shot.    A  stationary  circle 


18  GUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 

marked  on  the  paper  before  it  is  shot  at,  is  only  good  for 
trials  held  in  a  long  shed  or  building,  where  no  wind  and 
draughts  of  air  can  deflect  the  loads  from  striking  ex- 
actly in  the  ring. 

28.  Penetration  Test.— To  test  penetration  with 
varying  loads,  get  a  long,  narrow  box;  saw  through  both 
sides  at  intervals  of  one  inch  or  less,  thirty  or  more  places, 
into  which  place  as  thick  pasteboard  as  will  fit.    Knock 
out  the  end  of  the  box  toward  you,  and  blaze  away  at  the 
broadside  of  the  pasteboard  at  40  yards'  range. 

29.  Increasing  the  Shot  Charge.— By  increasing 
the  amount  of  shot  a  better  pattern  is  obtained,  but  at  the 
expense  of  penetration. 

3D.  Practice  Shooting.— Load    the    same   when 
shooting  for  practice  as  when  in  the  field. 

31.  Aiming  Practice.— Throw    your   gun  to  the 
shoulder,  take  aim  at  an  object  with  both  eyes  open,  and 
then  close  the  left  eye  to  ascertain  if  the  gun  be  bearing 
directly  on  the  object  aimed  at. 

32.  "  Holding  Ahead."— Major  W.  McClintock,  R. 
A.,  made  some  experiments  in  England  (results  published 
in  the  Journal  of  the  Royal  United  Service  Institution) 
which  demonstrated  that  a  charge  of  4^  drams  best  C.  & 
H.  powder  gives  to  No.  4  shot  a  muzzle  velocity  of  1,344 
feet.    Inferior  powder  would,  of  course,  give  less.    The 
time  of  flight  for  a  velocity  of  1,300  feet  is.  30  yards,  ,093; 
40  yards,  .1342;  50  yards,  .1797;  60  yards,  .2311,  etc.    This 
will  about  equal  the  velocity  usually  obtained  from  a  10- 
bore  with  4^  drams  of  good  powder  and  1-|  ounces  of  No. 
4  shot.    A  bird  crossing  the  line  of  fire  at  30  yards  dis- 
tance (flying  at  the  rate  of  a  mile  a  minute)  would  pass 
over  about  8-£  feet  while  the  shot  passes  through  the  30 
yards.    At  40  yards  the  bird  would  cover  about  12  feet,  at 
50  yards  about  16  feet,  and  at  60  yards  the  bird  would 
cover  about  22  feet. 


THE  SHOTGUN. 


19 


S3.  Aiming  at  Flying  Targets. — The  same  laws 
which  rule  in  the  case  of  clay  birds  are  applicable  to  live 
ones,  and  if  the  idea  of  just  how  to  aim  at  the  trap 
could  be  well  impressed,  the  shooter  would  in  consequence 
become  more  expert  in  the  field.  The  solution  of  the 
question  of  how  to  aim  ahead  is  a  mathematical  one.  If 
the  velocities  of  shot  and  bird  and  the  distance  of  the  bird 


from  the  shooter  at  the  time  of  firing  are  known,  then 
the  gun  mast  be  held  at  a  certain  point  in  order  that  the 
center  of  the  load  and  the  bird  may  meet.  The  velocity 
of  No.  8  shot  is  put  down  at  about  800  feet  per  second. 
The  velocity  of  clay-pigeons  with  the  trap  set  in  the 
fourth  notch  is  about  35  feet  per  second,  -J%  as  fast  as  that 
of  shot.  In  other  words,  while  shot  were  moving  23  feet 


20  GUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 

the  clay  bird  would  move  1  foot.  The  accompanying 
diagram  will  give  an  idea  of  how  far  to  hold  ahead  for 
the  various  angles  a  bird  takes  in  leaving  the  trap.  Let 
the  trap  be  at  A  and  the  shooter  at  B,  and  the  angles  be 
taken  for  each  30  degrees  which  correspond  with  the  12 
notches  in  the  Ligowsky  pigeon  trap.  Al  is  a  dead  away 
bird,  and  if  it  is  not  caught  dodging,  a  man  with  average 
skill  can  easily  demolish  it  when  it  reaches  the  summit  of 
its  flight  by  holding  hard  on.  Earlier  the  aim  must  be  a 
little  above  and  later  a  little  below  the  bird.  'Next  take 
A  4  which  leaves  the  trap  on  a  line  at  right  angles  to  the 
shooter.  Let  us  suppose  that  when  the  shooter  is  ready 
to  fire,  the  bird  is  14  yards  from  the  trap,  and  the  position 
of  the  shooter  is  18  yards  from  the  trap.  The  distance  of 
the  bird  from  shooter  is  B  4,  or  say  68  feet.  While  the 
shot  would  be  traveling  to  4  the  bird  would  move  on  the 
line  A  4  nearly  8  feet  further,  and  while  this  3  feet  was 
being  traveled  by  the  shot  the  bird  again  moves  nearly  2 
inches.  The  amateur  who  has  aimed  at  the  bird  gets  a 
nice  "goose  egg"  for  his  pains.  The  apparent  position  of 
the  bird  now,  as  viewed  by  the  man  at  the  score,  is  ap- 
proximately 28  inches  to  the  right  of  the  point  where  seen 
at  the  instant  of  firing.  By  the  same  calculation  we 
obtain  that  the  aim  must  be  ahead  for  the  angles  as  fol- 
lows: At  2,  14  inches;  at  3,  23  inches;  at  5,  23  inches,  and 
at  6,  13  inches.  These  calculations  assume  that  the  bird 
moves  on  a  line  straightaway  from  the  trap,  which  is  not 
always  the  case.  They  frequently  make  a  turn  to  right 
or  left,  and  this  trick  of  theirs  must  be  watched  closely 
and  aimed  for  accordingly.  For  instance,  it  is  easy  for  a 
bird  which  leaves  the  trap  on  the  line  A  2  (see  diagram)  to 
start  on  a  curve  to  the  left  about  the  time  the  shooter  is 
beginning  to  press  on  the  trigger,  and  in  a  very  short  time 
it  becomes  a  straightaway  bird  and  must  be  shot  at.  Or 
should  it  turn  to  the  right  the  lead  must  be  increased  in 
order  to  hit  it.  Allowance  must  also  be  made  for  ascend- 
ing and  descending  motion  of  the  birds.  And  windage  is 


SHOTGUN.  21 

HO  trifling  factor,  arid  if  high,  with  the  successful  shot,  is 
always  taken  into  account*  It  is  probably  the  hardest  of 
all  to  deal  with,  and  on  a  windy  day  the  crack  shots  gen- 
erally have  to  make  excuses  for  their  low  scores.  Of 
course,  when  the  word  "pull''  is  given,  and  the  bird  is 
seen  to  take  its  course,  the  shooter  has  no  time  to  figure 
out  the  thing  exactly.  There  is  business  to  attend  to  and 
that  quickly,  or  the  thin  brick-colored  chap  will  be  seen 
to  settle  in  the  grass  without  the  loss  of  a  scale.  A  glance 
and  a  thought  is  all  there  is  time  for,  and  the  situation 
must  be  taken  in  at  once.  That  this  can  properly  be  done, 
this  thing  of  shooting  ahead  must  previously  be  well 
fixed  in  the  mind.  Success  cannot  result  without  it,  and 
the  sooner  the  shooter  properly  comprehends  it,  the 
sooner  will  he  become  a  fair  if  not  a  crack  shot.— 
W.  L.  P. 

34.  Shoot  With    Both   Eyes  Open.— Learn  to 
shoot  with  both  eyes  open.     You  can  see  better  with  two 
eyes  than  with  one,  and  the  open-eyed  hunter  is  not  apt 
to  be  a  pottering  shot. 

35.  Sight  in  Aiming.— In  aiming  at  an  object  noth- 
ing should  be  seen  except  the  gunsight  and  the  object.   If 
the  top  of  the  barrel  or  rib  of  the  gun  is  seen  you  will 
shoot  over  your  game.     The  sight  should  appear  to  be  at 
the  breech  end  of  the  barrels. 

36.  Distance  in  Shooting. — Learn  to  measure  dis- 
tance by  the  eye.    Practice  by  estimating  and  then  pacing 
it  off. 

37.  Shooting  at  Moving  Target.— Hold  your  gun 
with  left  hand  well  along  the  barrel.     Learn  to  shoot 
with  both  eyes  open. 

38.  Aim  at  Flying  Game. — Some  light  may  be 
thrown  upon  the  questions  of  whether  to  aim  at  or  in  front 


22 


GUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 


of  a  bird  crossing  the  shooter  by  consideration  of  the  ac- 
companying figure  and  its  explanation.  A  is  the  position 
of  the  charge  when  fired,  and  B  that  of  the  bird  at  the 
same  instant,  the  latter  being  supposed  to  fly  from  BtoF 
in  exactly  the  same  time  that  it  takes  the  former  to  go 
from  A  to  B  F,  the  bird's  line  of  flight.  If  the  aim  is  along 
A  F  with  the  gun  temporarily  at  rest,  the  bird  passing  B 
at  the  instant  of  firing,  then  the  charge  strikes  the  bird  at 
F;  if  along  A  B,  with  the  gun  at  rest,  the  bird  will  reach 
F  as  the  charge  reaches  B;  if  the  aim  is  along  A  B  at  the 
instant  of  discharge  and  the  gun  continues  to  be  held  on 
the  bird  in  its  flight  toward  F,  the  conditions  are  those  of 


the  question  principally  requiring  consideration.  Suppose 
now  that  the  line  A  B  represents  an  indefinitely  extended 
gun  barrel,  fired  in  the  position  A  B  and  swung  around 
with  uniform  velocity  from  the  instant  of  discharge,  so 
that  when  it  gets  into  the  position  of  A  F  the  charge 
reaches  the  muzzle  at  F,  then  when  the  barrel  is  in  the 
position  A  C  the  charge  will  be  at  1;  when  in  A  D,  at  #, 
and  when  in  A  E,  at  3.  The  points  1,  2  and  3  are  those  of 
the  curved  line  through  which  the  charge  has  to  pass 
from  A  to  F.  Returning  to  the  original  conditions:  If 
A  1  represents  the  length  of  the  gun  barrel  (held  on  the 
bird  flying  from  B  toward  F  after  being  fired  with  aim 
along  A  B)  the  charge  leaves  it  at  1  and  flies  in  the  straight 


THE  SHOTGUN. 


line  for  1  G,  which  is  the  resultant  of  the  forward  and 
angular  forces  and  tangent  to  the  curve  at  1,  and  is  there- 
fore outside  of  the  path  required  to  carry  it  to  F.  If  any 
other  point  of  the  curve  A 123  F  is  taken  as  the  muzzle  of 
the  gun,  the  breech  being  at  A  in  all  cases,  the  result 
shows  the  charge  crossing  the  bird's  line  of  flight  some- 
where between  B  and  F  at  the  same  instant  that  the  bird 
reaches  F,  and  palpably  chronicles  a  missing  shot  behind 
the  bird.  Such  sucessful  shots  as  seem  to  argue  false 
theory  in  the  foregoing,  can  generally  be  accounted  for 
without  disturbing  it.  In  some  cases  the  scattering  of  the 
shot  serves  to  cover  the  error  in  aiming,  and  in  others  the 
gun  is  discharged  just  as  it  "catches  up  with"  the  bird, 
and  while  it  is  moving  with  a  rapid  angular  velocity  un- 
intentionally and  accidentally  correct. — Coroho. 

39.  Recoil. — Recoil  is  the   retrograde  motion    im- 
pressed upon  a  piece  by  the  pressure  resulting  from  the 
expansive  force  of  the  gases  generated  by  the  explosion 
of  the  charge  of  powder.     It  begins  at  the  moment  of  the 
ignition  of  the  charge. 

40.  Velocity  of  Shot.— Prof.  T.  M.  Rice,  of  the 
U.  S.  Naval  Academy,  deduced  the  following  from  ex- 
periments with  a  12-gauge  gun,  30-inch  barrels,  weight 
7-J  pounds: 


Powder. 

Drains. 

Size  of 
Shot. 

Ounces. 

Range  in 
feet. 

Mean  Veloci- 
ty in  feet  per 
second. 

H 
H 
H 
D 
D 
D 
H 

P 

3 
3 

2^ 

2 

2 
2 
7 
7 
7 
2 

ifl 

1^4 

\y± 

vH 

50 
100 
100 
100 
100 
50 
50 

1,013 

865 
854 
776 
783 
855 
995 

If  we  assume  the  mean  velocity  of  shot  for  40  yards 
to  be  800  feet  per  second,  the  time  of  flight  will  be  1.115 


24 


GUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 


seconds.  A  bird  flying  at  the  rate  of  60  miles  an  hour 
goes  at  the  rate  of  88  feet  per  second,  or  13.2  feet  in  0.15 
seconds.  Again,  if  we  assume  the  mean  velocity  of  shot 
for  40  yards  to  be  1,000  feet  per  second,  the  time  of  flight 
will  be  0.12  seconds,  and  the  distance  traversed  by  the 
bird,  10.56  feet.  Ducks,  when  going  at  full  speed,  attain 
a  velocity  exceeding  60  miles  an  hour;  it  would  therefore 
seem  that  an  allowance  of  10  or  15  feet,  in  the  case  of  a 
duck  passing  a  point  under  full  headway,  is  not  too  much, 
if  the  distance  equal  or  exceed  85  yards.  In  the  case  of 
most  double  guns  the  elevation  of  the  rib  at  the  breech  is 
more  than  sufncient  to  compensate  for  the  distance  through 
which  the  shot  will  fall  in  going  40  yards.  A  sight  one- 
tenth  of  an  inch  in  height,  at  30  inches  from  the  eye,  will 
exactly  cover  a  line  4  inches  in  length  at  a  distance  of  100 
feet.  The  elevation  of  the  rib  of  most  double  guns  is 
greater  than  one-tenth  of  an  inch. 

On  this  subject  Prof.  Alfred  Mayer,  of  the  Stevens  In- 
stitute of  Technology,  made  some  exhaustive  experiments 
from  which  he  deduced  the  following  table: 

I.    10  COLT    GUN,  5DRS.  CURTIS    &    HARVEY    POWDER,  l^OZ.  SHOT. 


Size  of  shot. 

Yel.  30yds. 

Vel.  40yds. 

Vel.  50yds. 

No  1  buck  

1153 

1C67 

FF  
BB                 

1147 
1146 

1132 
1126 

No   3 

1066 

1015 

928 

No   6 

1012 

963 

859 

No.  8  

995 

880 

775 

No   10 

908 

803 

716 

II.    10    COLT  GUN,   4DRS.   CURTIS  &  HARVEY  POWDER,  1J4OZ.   SHOT. 


No  1  buck 

1067 

1018 

FF       

1017 

1009 

967 

BB 

1000 

967 

897 

No.  3  .  . 

989 

911 

872 

No   6 

966 

883 

806 

No   8 

920 

874 

776 

No.  10 

848 

756 

669 

THE  SHOTGUN.  25 

III.  12  COL.T  GUN,  3J4DRS.  CURTIS  &  HARVEY  POWDER,  l^OZ.  OF  SHOT. 


No  1  buck 

FF                  

BB        

862 

795 

667 

No   3           

844 

754 

696 

No.  6         

825 

739 

600 

No  8 

816 

749 

007 

No.  10              

796 

680 

610 

IV.  12  COLT  GUN,  4DRS.  CURTIS  &  HARVEY  POWDER,  l^OZ.  OF  SHOT. 


No  8 

847 

722   . 

671 

No.  10  

784 

657 

596 

A  noticeable  feature  of  the  above  is  the  rapid  increase 
in  the  velocity  from  No.  10  up  to  No.  3.  With  the  heavier 
pellets  the  increase  is  less  marked. 

41.  Velocity  of  Shot  in  Different  Gauges.— The 

larger  the  gauge  the  better  the  penetration  with  a  given 
load,  because  the  same  charge  occupies  less  length  in  a 
large  gauge  than  in  a  small  one,  hence  there  are  fewer 
pellets  in  contact  with  the  barrel  in  the  former  than  of 
the  latter  to  oppose  by  their  friction  the  projectile  force 
of  the  powder.  Also,  the  powder  in  a  10-gauge  is  ex- 
ploded nearer  the  center  of  its  volume,  and  thus  does  not 
have  so  much  chance  of  blasting  before  it  unburnt  powder 
contained  in  the  portion  of  the  charge  removed  from  the 
point  of  ignition.  Experiments  made  by  Prof.  Mayer  give 
the  relative  penetrations  of  the  10  to  the  12-gauge  about 
as  9  is  to  7. 

42.  Hold  the  Butt  Firmly.— The  moment  when 
the  recoil  commences  coincides  exactly  with  the  moment 
of  the  initial  movement  of  the  projectile,  therefore,  the 
butt  of  the  gun  should  be  firm  against  the  shoulder  when 
the  trigger  is  pulled. 

43.  Shiny  Powder. — Powder  that  shines  is  dirtier 
than  dull  powder,  and  leaves  a  residue  in  the  barrels. 


26  GUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 

44.  Too  Much  Powder. — To    ascertain    if   you? 
charges  contain  more  powder  than  your  gun  will  burr, 
lay  a  number  of  sheets  of  white  paper  on  the  ground,  say 
10  or  15  feet  along  from  the  muzzle  of  the  gun,  and  then, 
having  a  determined  load,  fire  it,  and  so  catch  the  grains 
of  unconsumed  powder  on  the  paper. 

45.  Buckshot  in  Cylinder  Bores.— If  it  is  desira- 
ble to  shoot  buckshot  from  a  cylinder  bore,  such  size 
should  be  selected  as  will  chamber  loosely  in  the  bore — 
loading  them  in  layers — three  layers,  with  three  shot  in  a 
layer.     If  it  is  desirable  that  they  should  scatter,  place  a 
card  wad  between  each  layer;  if  close  shooting  is  desired, 
pour  melted  tallow  over  the  shot  after  they  are  arranged 
in  the  shell. 

46.  Buckshot  and  Ball  in  Chokebores.— Bul- 
lets, buckshot  and  all  shot  larger  than  No.  1  should  not 
be  discharged  from  a  chokebore.     Ball  may  be  shot  from 
some  chokebores  a  thousand  times  without  injury;  but 
there  is  always  liability  of  jamming  and  no  one  can  tell 
when  it  may  occur.     To  use  buckshot  in  a  chokebore, 
when  you  are  willing  to  risk  consequences,  place  a  wad 
in  the  muzzle  and  press  it  down  to  the  point  where  the 
choke  is  closest.    Then  by  chambering  the  shot  on  the 
wad  there  determine  the  proper  number  to  use  in  a  layer 
in  the  shell. 

47.  Wire  Cartridges. —They  may  be  used  in  a  cyl- 
inder bore  for  long  range  shots,   but  do  not  give  good 
results  when  used  in  a  chokebore. 

48.  Tight  Wads. — A  tight  wad  over  the  shot  makes 
the  shot  scatter. 

49.  To  Make  a  Gun  Scatter.— To  make  a  shotgun 
scatter,  divide  the  shot  charge  into  three  or  four  portions 
and  place  a  card  wad  between  each  portion. 


THE  SHOTGUN. 


50.  Chokebore.— The    term    "chokebores"    means 
simply  "barrels  whereof  the  diameter  of  the  bore  at  the 


28  QUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 

muzzle  is  less  than  the  bore  at  some  point  behind  the 
muzzle,  other  than  the  chamber,"  while  any  barrel 
constricted  at  the  muzzle  to  the  extent  of  -nfjtr  of  an 
inch,  may  be  termed  a  modified  choke.  A  full  choke  is 
constricted  to  the  extent  of  TJfty  to  TJJy  of  an  inch;  but 
the  larger  the  bore,  the  greater  must  be  the  muzzle.  The 
constriction  of  the  bore  must  be  from  i  to  1  inch  from 
the  extremity  of  the  barrel;  this  constriction  if  placed  8 
inches  or  more  from  the  muzzle,  fails  to  throw  the  shot 
close  together,  but  will  give  better  penetration  than  a 
cylinder  bore. 

51.  Large  Gauge. — A  gun  of  large  gauge  will  carry 
more  shot  than  a  smaller  gauge,  and  with  practically  an 
equal  force;  hence,  at  short  range,  chances  of  killing  are 
greater  with  a  large  gauge. 

52.  Crook  of  Stock.— Generally  a  tall  person  or  one 
with  long  arms  needs  a  gun  with  a  long  and  crooked  stock, 
and  vice  versa.    A  too  straight  stock  makes  a  gun  shoot 
high;  a  too  crooked  stock  makes  it  shoot  low. 

53.  Length  of  Barrels.— The  shorter  the  barrel  the 
greater  the  range  of  divergence  of  the  charge.    Long  bar- 
rels shoot  closer  than  short,  and  will  kill  game  at  greater 
distance.   For  quick  shooting,  and  cover  shooting,  26  to  28 
inches  is  about  right  in  a  12-bore;  2  inches  more  in  a  10- 
bore.     Short  barrels  should  be  charged  with  a  finer  grain 
of  powder  than  longer  ones. 

54.  Balance  of  Gun.— The  center  of  gravity  should 
be  from  26  to  27  inches  from  the  heel  of  the  butt,  just 
forward  of  the  guard. 

55.  Cooling  Heated  Guns,— Open  or  " break"  the 
gun  and  allow  the  air  to  pass  through  the  barrels. 

56.  "Pull"  of  Triggers.— Triggers    should   have 
from  4  to  4J-  pounds  pull. 


THE  SHOTGUN.  ,  29 

57.  Loose  Shot  in  Cartridges.— If  you  have  shot 
the  right  barrel  two  or  three  times  and  do  not  want  to 
shoot  the  left,  take  the  left  cartridge  out  and  put  it  into 
the  right  barrel,  and  put  the  fresh  cartridge  in  the  other 
barrel. 

58.  Holding1  Wads  in  Place.— Use  a  good,  firm, 
stiff  pasteboard  wad,  under  which  place  a  circular  disc  of 
cotton  cloth  large  enough  to  come  up  over  the  edge  of  the 
wad  and  project  above  the  same,  say  from,  a  sixteenth  to  an 
eighth  of  an  inch.     To  load,  first  lay  the  disc  of  cotton 
centrally  ovt  r  the  mouth  of  the  shell  or  loading  tube,  a 
good,  stiff  pasteboard  wad  exactly  on  top  in  the  center 
and  drive  it  home.     Or,  fasten  your  cardboard  wad  cen- 
trally to  the  larger  cotton  or  thin  cloth  disc  with  a  touch 
of  good  flour  paste.     Having  thus  prepared  a  lot  of  them, 
should  you  prefer  a  lubricant,  take  an  even  roll  of  them, 
dip  the  projecting  cloth  edges  in  a  little  melted  tallow, 
you  then  have  a  lubricant  exactly  where  you  want  it,  in 
advance  of  the  charge  of  shot. 

59.  Vise  for  Guns. — If  you  put  your  gun  in  a  vise 
use  a  wooden  one.    If  you  can't  use  a  wooden  vise,  join 
two  pieces  of  flat  pine  or  bass-wood  by  a  leather  strap  at 
one  end,  and  set  in  the  iron  vise  with  the  strap  down,  in 
shape  of  a  letter  \J . 

60.  To  Color  Stocks. — Put  4  ounces  of  alkanet  root 
into  a  half-pint  of  raw  linseed  oil.   When  the  oil  becomes 
a  bright  red  wet  a  sponge  or  rag  in  it  and  go  over  the 
stock  four  or  five  times.     Be  sure  that  the  wood  absorbs 
the  oil  each  time. 

6 1 .  To   Color  Stocks  Brown.— Dissolve    a    few 
crystals  of  permanganate  of  potash  in  water,  and  rub  well 
into  the  wood . 

62.  Varnish   for  Stocks. — Coach    varnish,    made 
quite  thin  with  turpentine,  and  put  on  lightly,  makes  a 
good  finish  for  gun  stocks, 


30  GUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 

63.  Measuring"  Gun  Stocks.— Lay  a  straight-edge 
along  the  rib,  as  shown  in  the  cut,  extending  to  the  butt  of 


the  stock;  measure  at  points  1  to  2,  3  to  4  for  the  crook, 
and  from  the  front  trigger  to  the  butt  for  the  length. 

64.  Gauge  Numbers. — A  round  ball,  ten  of  which 
will  weigh  a  pound,  will  exactly  fit  the  barrel  of  a  10- 
gauge  gun.    The  size  of  ball  " eight- to-the-pound"  fits  an 
8-gauge  gun,  etc.;  hence  the  derivation  of  the  numbers 
expressing  the  gauge  of  shotguns. 

65.  Powder   Measure.— The    term   "dram,"   by 
by  which  charges  of  powder  are  measured,  is  an  arbitrary 
quantity,  and  bears  no  relation  to  avoirdupois,  troy  or 
apothecaries'  weight,  although  it  is  probable  that  the 
dram  of  powder  originally  weighed  the  same  as  the  dram 
avoirdupois. 

66.  Browning   Gun  Barrels.— 1  ounce  muriate 
tincture  of  steel;  1  ounce  spirits  of  wine;  £  ounce  muriate 
of  mercury;  £  ounce  strong  nitric  acid;  -J-  ounce  blue  stone; 
1  quart  water.     Mix  well,  and  allow  to  stand  thirty  days 
to  amalgamate.   After  the  oil  or  grease  has  been  removed 
from  the  barrels  by  lime,  the  mixture  is  laid  on  lightly 
with  a  sponge  every  ten  hours.     It  should  be  scratched 
off  with  a  steel  wire  brush  night  and  morning  until  the 
barrels  are  dark  enough;  and  then  the  acid  is  destroyed 
by  pouring  on  the  barrels  boiling  water,  and  continuing 
to  rub  them  until  nearly  cool.     If  the  barrels  are  of 
laminated  steel  do  not  dilute  the  acid  so  much. — Greener. 


6 

Q 


l>lOiOGO?DQO 
r-l  rH  i—  «  OS  CNi  r-  1 


s 


P* 


32  GUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 

68.  "Don't."— Don't  point  your  gun  at  yourself 
Don't  point  your  gun  at  any  one  else.  Don't  carry  your 
gun  so  its  range  includes  all  your  hunting  companions. 
Don't  try  to  find  out  whether  your  gun  is  loaded  by  shut- 
ting one  eye  and  looking  down  the  barrel  with  the  other. 
Don't  use  your  gun  for  a  walking  stick.  Don't  throw 
your  gun  into  a  boat  so  the  triggers  will  catch  and  deposit 
the  charge  of  shot  in  your  stomach.  Don't  use  your  gun 
for  a  sledge-hammer.  Don't  carry  your  gun  with  the 
hammer  down.  Don't  be  a  fool.  Don't  you  forget  it  un- 
less you  have  serious  intentions  of  leaving  this  mundane 
sphere. 


SECTION     II.— THE     RIFLE. 

69.  Hunting  Rifle  Qualifications.— (1)  safety; 
(2)  strength,  durability  and  ease  of  manipulation;  (3)  kill- 
ing power  and  penetration;  (4)  flat  trajectory;  (5)  porta- 
bility; (6)  freedom  from  recoil;  (7)  finish  and  ornamenta- 
tion. 

70.  Loading-. — If  in  loading  the  bullet  is  not  inserted 
in  the  shell,  but  is  pushed  into  the  grooves  in  the  barrel 
so  as  to  be  about  -fa  inch  in  front  of  the  shell,  the  ball  will 
take  the  grooves  perfectly,  and  the  blotting  paper  patch 
will  not  be  cut  by  the  shoulder  of  the  chamber,  giving 
practically  the  same  result  as  a  muzzleloader. 

71.  Rifle  Shooting.— Hold  the  butt  firmly  against 
the  shoulder  (close  to  the  body),  not  on  the  muscle  of  the 
arm.    Extend  the  left  hand  along  the  barrel,  and  hold  it 
firmly  with  the  fingers.     The  elbow  should  form  a  very 
obtuse  angle.     Press  the  trigger  with  a  steady  pull,  but 
do  not  jerk  or  twitch  it. 

72.  Practice  in  Aiming. — The  great  desideratum 
in  off-hand  shooting  is  practice.    If  practice  may  not  be 


THE  RIFLE.  33 

had  upon  the  range,  good  results  may  be  attained  by  aim- 
ing a  rifle  in  a  room  at  a  small  object  or  a  spot  upon  the 
wall,  and  snapping  the  hammer. 

73.  Aiming  the  Hunting1  Rifle. — The  sight  (using 
open  sights,  permanently  set  to  100  yards'  range)  should 
be  coarse  very  near  the  piece  (within  8  yards),  changing 
to  fine  at  8  yards,  which  is  the  near  point  blank;  then  to 
very  fine  at  55  yards,  which  is  the  point  of  greatest 
error,  from  this  to  fine  at  100  yards,  the  true  point  blank, 
and  beyond  the  range,  coarser  and  coarser,  the  further  the 
object  is  off.   Different  rifles  produce  different  errors,  but 
I  find  these  differences  to  be  very  small  at  this  short 
range.   They  will  all  fall  between  1-J-  and  2£  inches,  which 
is  the  greatest  error  at  55  yards.     This  includes  the  mili- 
tary, long  range,  mid  range,  express  and  all  good  hunting 
rifles,  which  I  suppose  to  be  well  loaded.     There  are  two 
methods  of  aiming  the  rifle  among  sportsmen:    One  by 
changing  the  sight  taken  from,  fine  to  coarse  and  vice 
versa,  and  the  other  by  not  changing  the  sights,  but  by 
aiming  higher  or  lower  on  the  object.    Which  of  these 
modes  is  the  best  I  will  not  pretend  to  decide;  each  has 
its  advocates.     For  myself,  I  never  vary  the  sight,  but 
aim  higher  or  lower  as  the  case  may  require. — Major  H. 
W.  Merrill. 

74.  Keep  Barrel  Clean, — Accurate  shooting  de- 
pends upon  perfectly  clean  barrels.     Wipe  out  the  barrel 
after  each  shot,  if  possible. 

75.  Target  Shooting  Makes  Slow  Hunters.— 

The  great  drawback  to  off-hand  shooting  on  rifle  ranges 
is  that  it  makes  a  pottering,  slow  shot  on  game.  The 
shooter  takes  his  time  at  the  range,  knowing  the  target 
cannot  get  away,  and  hence  doesn't  iearn  to  get  a  quick 
aim. 

76.  Powder  for  Rifle.— Powder  for  rifle  shooting 
should  be  the  cleanest  obtainable.     Dirty  powder  causes 
foulness  and  leading,  hence  bad  shooting. 


34 


THE  RIFLE. 


77.  liifle  Bullets.— The  increase  of  length  of  bul- 
lets is  attended  with  a  decrease  of  initial  velocity,  but  up 
to  a  certain  point  with  an  increase  of  mean  velocity,, 
while  the  steadiness  of  flight  and  penetration  are  always 
improved.  The  longer  the  range  the  heavier  will  be  the 
bullet  that  will  give  the  flattest  trajectory,  and  this  is 
more  marked  at  extreme  ranges  than  at  moderate  ones. 
A  bullet  that  will  give  the  flattest  curve  at  one  range  will 
give  a  higher  curve  than  a  heavier  bullet  at  a  longer 
range.  Having  fixed  the  range  at  which  we  wish  to 
obtain  the  flattest  trajectory,  it  is  simply  a  matter  of  cal- 
culation as  to  what  weight  of  bullet  will  give  the  best 
results  with  a  fixed  caliber.  To  illustrate:  Suppose  that 
we  have  fixed  on  a  ,50-caliber  rifle  with  a  powder  charge 
of  5  drams  or  138  grains.  On  this  assumption  one  may 
calculate  the  weights  and  other  data  of  the  bullets  giving 
the  flattest  trajectory  at  the  respective  ranges.  The 
results  are  shown  in  the  following  table,  in  which  the 
weights  of  the  bullets  are  given  to  the  nearest  10  grains. 
It  may  be  well  to  add  that  if  we  increase  the  powder 
charge,  the  weight  of  the  bullet  corresponding  to  the  flat- 
test curve  will  also  be  increased,  but  not  in  the  same 
ratio. 

TABLE. 


Range, 
Yards. 

Weight  of 
bullet, 
Grains. 

Time  of 
flight,  Sec. 

Initial 
velocity, 
f.  s. 

Remaining  velocity. 

At  end  of 
range. 

At  400yds. 

100 

330 

0.171 

1989 

1562 

922 

200 

350 

0.388 

1931 

1249 

941 

300 

390 

0.647 

1865 

1075 

963 

400 

430 

0.917 

1803 

981 

981 

The  last  column  is  added  to  show  what  the  remaining 
velocity  would  be  in  each  case,  if  the  flight  were  con- 
tinued up  to  400  yards,  and  is  only  given  for  the  sake  of 
comparison.  By  common  consent  200  yards  seems  to  be 
tke.  range  fixed  upon  for  which  the  flattest  trajectory  is 


THE  RIFLE.  35 

required.  Therefore,  if  the  flattest  trajectory  were  the 
only  object  to  be  gained  we  would  accept  the  350-grain 
bullet  as  being  the  most  effective.  But  there  are  other 
conditions  to  be  fulfilled  even  more  important  than  a  flat 
curve.  These  are  accuracy  and  energy.  Both  of  these 
conditions  are  obtained  by  the  same  means,  i.  e.,  by  in- 
creasing the  weight  of  the  projectile.  Thus  we  are 
obliged  to  sacrifice  trajectory  to  a  certain  extent  depend- 
ent on  the  use  to  which  the  rifle  is  to  be  put,  the  extremes 
being  the  hunting  rifle  shooting  the  round  ball,  and  the 
long-range  rifle  shooting  an  elongated  projectile  of  from 
3  to  4  calibers  in  length. 

•78.  Bullet  Metal.— The  best  proportion  for  bullets 
is  twenty  parts  of  lead  to  one  part  of  tin;  harder  bullets 
would  possibly  do  better  shooting,  but  the  wear  and  tear 
on  the  rifle  grooving  would  be  much  increased.  Patched 
bullets  give  better  results  than  grooved;  but  the  latter, 
well  lubricated ,  serve  all  practical  purposes.  The  best  and 
most  convenient  lubricant  is  beef  tallow — pure  in  winter, 
but  for  summer  mixed  with  -£  beeswax. — Caliynet. 

79.  Heavy  Bullets  for  Small  Calibers.— "Devil's 

Ramrod"  in  Forest  and  Stream  gives  the  following 
method  of  moulding  bullets  for  sportsmen  who  use  small 
caliber  rifles  for  large  game:  1st,  Melt  sufficient  lead 
to  make  nine  bullets,  and  mould  them  without  any  special 
care  as  to  accuracy.  3d,  Clean  the  ladle  out,  put 
the  nine  bullets  therein,  and  place  over  a  moderate  fire. 
3d,  While  they  are  melting  fill  the  mould  with  quick- 
silver, and  as  soon  as  the  bullets  are  melted  pour  the 
quicksilver  into  the  ladle  and  stir  rapidly  with  a  piece  of 
clean  iron.  4th,  Remove  from  the  fire  and  mould  nine 
bullets  from  this  alloy.  Pour  the  remainder  into  a  tin 
pan  or  upon  a  piece  of  wood.  Repeat  the  process  until 
you  have  the  desired  number  of  bullets,  pouring  out  the 
residue  as  above  directed,  each  time;  for  if  it  is  allowed 
to  regain  in  the  ladle,  the  proportion  of  quicksilver  will 


36  THE  RIFLE. 

be  gradually  increased  and  ununiform  shooting  will 
result.  When  you  are  through,  take  this  residue,  place 
in  the  ladle,  melt  and  use.  The  lead  must  not  be  allowed 
to  get  too  hot.  as  quicksilver  volatilizes  rapidly  when  ex- 
posed to  red  heat.  The  result  of  these  directions  will  be 
a  bullet  of  slightly  greater  weight  than  one  of  pure  lead  , 
and  not  lighter,  as  when  alloyed  with  tin,  and  besides 
possessing  a  fine  degree  of  hardness,  will  retain  its  shape 
better  when  fired  through  hard  substances,  and  naturally 
has  better  penetration.  The  following  simple  algebraic 
formula  will  give  the  weight  of  a  bullet  made  of  the 
above  mixture:  Sp.  grav.  of  lead  =  11.  Sp.  grav.  of 
quicksilver  «=  14.  Let  a  =  weight  in  grains  of  bullet 
made  of  pure  lead,  b  =  weight  of  the  mould  full  of  quick- 
silver, and  c  =  weight  of  resultant  bullet. 
,Then:  fr=x!4,  and  c=*ax+b  -.09x10. 


8O.  Recoil  in  Rifles.—  1st,  Recoil  commences  with 
the  first  motion  of  the  ball,  and  continues  until  it  leaves 
the  barrel.  3d,  The  resistance  of  the  atmosphere  being 
in  proportion  to  its  velocity,  or  the  velocity  of  the  object 
coming  in  contact  with  it,  it  follows  that  whatever 
increases  the  speed  of  the  ball  through  the  barrel  will 
increase  the  recoil.  3d,  &s  more  force  is  required  to  pro- 
duce a  fast  motion  of  a  ball  than  a  slower  motion,  it  fol- 
lows that  all  circumstances,  such  as  quick  powder,  large 
charges,  etc.,  that  are  capable  of  causing  increased  velo- 
city, are  likewise  capable  of  causing  increased  recoil. 
4th,  The  weight  of  the  ball  governs  the  tendency  to  recoil 
to  a  great  extent.  5th,  The  weight  of  the  gun  in  excess 
of  that  of  the  missile  is  the  great  regulation  of  recoil. 
6th,  That  the  barrel  is  moved  by  recoil  before  the  ball 
leaves  it.  7th,  The  line  of  the  barrel  being  above  its  par- 
allel extended  from  the  breech,  where  itr  rests  against  the 
shoulder,  would  cause  its  point  to  rise  with  a  recoil,  and 
if  from  any  cause  a  greater  recoil  is  produced  than  pro- 
vision has  been  made  for  in  adjusting  the  sight,  it  must 


THE  RIFLE. 


result  in  an  elevation  of  the  range  of  the  ball.  Hence  we 
have  "over-shooting"  with  heavy  loading. — J.  F.  P. 

81.  Windage  Allowances  in  Rifle  Shooting.— 

This  table  shows  approximately  the  divergence  at  from 
100  to  1,000  yards  for  winds  blowing  across  the  plane  of 
lire: 


200  yards. 

300  yards. 

1,000  yards. 

Gentle  wind  (4  miles  per  hour)  — 

Sin. 

lOin. 

3ft.  6in. 

Moderate  wind  (10  miles  per  hour) 

5m. 

1ft.  6in. 

7ft. 

Fresh  wind  (30  miles  per  hour;  
Strong  wind  (35  miles  per  houi).  .  . 
Very  high  wind  (50  miles  per  hour) 

Tin. 
9in. 
1ft.  lin. 

2ft.  6in. 
3ft.  6m. 
5ft. 

lift. 
16ft. 
21ft. 

A  gale  (80  miles  per  nour)  

1ft.  4in. 

7ft.  6in. 

30ft. 

82.  Line  of  Sight.— "Line  of  sight"  is  the  straight 
line  from  the  eye,  passing  through  the   bDttom  of  the 
crotch  sight,  taking  in  the  tip  of  the  bead  sight,  and 
thence  straight  on,  piercing  the  target  in  its  very  center. 
— Major  Merrill. 

83.  Trajectory.— -"Trajectory "is  the  curve  described 
by  a  rifle  ball  from  the  barrel  muzzle,  which  is  beneath 
the  line  of  sight,  up  through  the  line  of  sight,  and  for 
some  distance  above  it,  then  down  through  the  line  of 
sight  again,  to  the  center  of  the  target. 

84.  Point   Blank  —"Point  blank"  is    the    second 
point  where  the  trajectory  of  the  ball  in  its  flight  inter- 
sects or  cuts  the  line  of  sight.    The  first  point  of  inter- 
section is  sometimes  called  the  "first  point  blank,"  or 
"near  point  blank." 

85.  Point  Blank  Range. — "Point  blank  range"  is 
the  straight  line  or  shortest  distance  from  the  piece  to  the 
second  point  blank  (or  in  practice  to  the  target  whose 
center  is  struck  at  this  point).    The  French  and  Americans 
use  the  same  point  blank,  but  in  the  British  service  it  is 
different;  their  point  blank  distance  is  "the  distance  at 


88  THE  RIFLE. 

which  the  projectile  (ball)  strikes  the  level  ground  on 
which  the  carriage  stands,  the  axis  of  the  piece  being 
horizontal."  (Col.  Scott's  Mil.  Die.)— Major  Merrill. 

86.  Point  Blank.— The  position  of  a  firearm  when 
the  axis  of  the  bore  and  the  object  aimed  at  are  in  the 
same  plane,  which  may  be  either  parallel  or  inclined  to 
the  horizon.— Glossary  of  Military  Terms. 

87.  Point  Blank.— The  point  at  which  the  line  of 
sight  intersects  the  trajectory.    Strictly  speaking,  the  line 
of  sight  intersects  the  trajectory  at  two  points,  but  in 
practice  the  second  intersection  only  is  considered.     This 
distance  is  called  the  point  blank  distance.     The  natural 
point  blank  corresponds  to  the  natural  line  of  sight.    All 
other  points  blank  are  called  artificial  points  blank.— 
Benton's  Ordinance. 

88.  Point  Blank.— By  point  blank  I  mean  the  dis- 
tance to  which  your  rifle  will  shoot  over  the  50  yard  sight, 
so  nearly  level  that  the  drop  of  the  ball  need  not  be  taken 
into  account.— T.  S.  Van  Dyke. 

89.  Shot  in  Rifles. — Don't  shoot  shot  in  rifles,  as 
they  will  catch  the  rifling  and  go  off  in  all  directions. 

OO.  Powder  Ignit ion.— From  experiments  made 
in  1884  by  Mr.  James  Duane,  loading  .45-caliber  govern- 
ment shells  (U.  M.  C.)  capped  with  Berdan  No.  1  primers, 
with  different  quantities  of  sand  behind  the  powder 
charge,  he  determined  that  the  flash  of  a  Berdan  No.  1 
primer  penetrates  the  powder  in  an  ordinary  rifle  shell 
less  than  f  of  an  inch. 

91.  Bluing-  Barrels.— Tincture  of  muriate  of  iron, 
1  ounce;  nitric  ether,  1  ounce;  sulphate  of  copper,  4  scru- 
ples; rain  water,  1  pint.  First,  securely  plug  up  both 
ends  of  barrels,  leaving  one  plug  in  each  end  of  sufficient 
length  to  be  used  as  handles,  then  thoroughly  clean  with 
soap  and  water,  after  which  cover  with  a  thick  coat  of 


THE  RIFLE.  t     39 

lime,  slacked  in  -water,  and  when  that  has  become  dry 
remove  it  with  an  iron  wire  scratch  brush;  this  is  to  re- 
move all  dirt  and  grease  from  the  barrels.  Then  apply  a 
coat  of  the  fluid  with  a  rag,  and  let  it  stand  for  twenty- 
four  hours,  when  a  slight  rust  will  have  appeared;  then 
take  barrrels  and  immerse  them  in  a  trough  containing 
boiling  hot  water,  after  which  scratch  them  wrell  with  the 
scratch  brush.  Repeat  this  until  the  color  suits,  which 
will  be  after  three  or  four  applications.  When  completed, 
let  the  barrels  remain  in  lime  water  a  short  time  to  neutral- 
ize any  acid  which  may  have  penetrated.  Take  great 
care  not  to  handle  the  barrels  daring  the  operation,  for 
the  least  particle  of  grease  will  make  bad  spots. 

92.  Pistols. — It  is  best  to  use  in  pistol  practice  the 
same  weapon  which  would  be  likely  to  be  used  in  case  of 
necessity;  practice  with  ,22-caliber  gallery  pistols  affords 
only  amusement  and  is  of  no  practical  value.     In  select- 
ing a  pistol,  choose  a  heavy  one,  for  the  weight  is  neces- 
sary to  counteract  the  recoil  or  "kick-up."    The  charges 
used  in  the  .82  and  many  of  the  .38-calibers  are  out  of  all 
proportion  to  the  weight  of  the  weapons,  and  it  is  there- 
fore impossible  to  do  accurate  shooting.    The  .4l-caliber 
is  a  convenient  and  effective  size,  but  the  ball  in  it  even 
is  too  heavy  and  causes  excessive  recoil.     The  writer  has 
tried  No.  2  buckshot  in  this  caliber  in  place  of  the  regular 
conical  bullet,  and,  although  the  recoil  was  reduced  to 
the  minimum,  it  was  at  the  expense  of  penetration. — 
Calumet. 

93.  Range   of  Revolver.— A  good  revolver  will 
carry  40  yards  straight  and  kill.    The  heavy  army  and 
navy  pistols  will  kill  at  100  yards  or  even  further. 

94.  Pistol  Practice. — In  pistol  shooting  the  range 
was  formerly  12  paces,  or  12  yards,  the  regular  dueling 
distance.    This  has  now  been  increased  up  to  20  paces; 
and  with  Colt's  revolvers  matches  have  been  shot  at  50 


40 


THE  PISTOL. 


yards.     The  position  adopted  in  New  York  galleries  is 
that  shown  in  the  cut,  and  the  targets  are  the  regular  200 


yards  target  reduced  proportionately.  Those  generally 
used  are  8fin.  x5fin. ;  inner,  5|in. ;  center,  3£in. ;  bullseye, 
1  ,\in.  They  can  be  purchased  at  any  New  York  pistol 
gallery  at  25  cents  a  hundred. 


CHAPTER  II. 
GAME,   HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 


95.  Game  in  General. — The  best  time  of  day  for 
hunting  all  kinds  of  game  is  early  morning  or  late  after- 
noon.    Extremes  of  temperature  are  unfavorable:  a  still, 
cloudy  day  being  the  best.     A  wet  day  is  often  good.     A 
well- watered  country,  part  hilly,  part  marsh,  part  level, 
part  meadow,  part  wooded,  is  the  ideal  territory  for  game 
birds  of  all  ordinary  species. 

96.  All-Rouiid  Gun.— A  double  gun  of  12-gauge, 
7i  to  8  pounds  in  weight,  modified  choke,  is  about  right 
for  an  all-round  gun.    If  much  duck  hunting  is  to  be  done 
a  10-gauge,  8^-pound  gun  is  better;  but  in  the  field  or 
cover  an  8-pound  gun  will  weigh  12  pounds  by  nightfall. 

97.  All-Round  Rifle.— Probably  no  caliber  is  bet- 
ter adapted  to  all  kinds  of  American  large  game  shooting 
than  the  .45;  but  the  ,40-caliber  is  large  enough  for  the 
shooting  of  most  men,  and  the  .40-caliber  does  not  require 
to  be  so  heavy  that  it  is  burdensome.     The  bone-crushing 
power  of  the  .50-caliber  is  immense,  and  if  one  wants  to 
be  "loaded  for  bar"  it  is  just  the  rifle  to  have;  but  the  ex- 
perienced hunter  will  not  lug  about  a  rifle  of  10  or  12 
pounds  to  shoot  deer,  antelope,  wildcats  and  turkeys. — 
Calumet. 


42  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

98.  Hunting1  Clothes. — The  hunting  suit  should  be 
of  a  dull,  neutral  tint,  drab,  gray,  or  "dead-grass"  color, 
and  should  be  of  good,  stout  material  to  withstand  briery 
thickets  and  rock  climbing. 

99.  Manners  in  the  Field.— 1st,  Always  be  polite 
and  unselfish.     2d,  Drink  little  or  no  liquor.     3d,  Never 
let  your  gun   point  toward   yourself  or   anybody  else, 
whether  it  is  loaded  or  not.    4th,  No  matter  how  easy 
to  get  over  a  fence,  through  a  hedge,  or  into  a  boat, 
see  first  that  your  gun  is  at  half-cock.    5th,  If  you  take 
down  bars  put  them  up  again.     6th,   Walk  abreast  of 
your  associate,  never  ahead  or  behind.     7th,  If  separated 
from  your  companion,  don't  shoot  unless  he  is  in  sight. 
8th,  Give  your  fellows  a  chance  to  shoot  as  well  as  your- 
self when  your  dog  stands.     9th,  If  a  rising  bird  flies 
more  in  your  companion's  direction  than  in  your  own, 
wait  till  he  shoots  before  you  blaze  away.     10th,  Never 
shoot  toward  your  companion,  no  matter  how  far  away 
he  may  be.     llth,  Don't  give  orders  to  your  friend's  dog. 
12th,  When  both  of  you  shoot,  and  the  bird  falls,  don't 
swear  that  you  killed  it.      13th,    Don't  lie  about  your 
exploits. 

100.  Hunting  in  Company. — When  in  company 
be  sure  of  the  position  of  your  companion.     Better  lose  a 
bird  than  shoot  a  friend. 

1 0 1 .  Carrying1  Gun. — When  carrying  a  gun,  barrels 
should  rest  on  the  shoulder,  muzzle  well  up;  or  else  under 
arm,  the  muzzle  pointing  to  the  ground,  two  feet  ahead  of 
you. 

102.  Fence  Climbing. — Never  climb  a  fence  with 
a  loaded  gun  in  your  hands.     Either  remove  the  shells  or 
carefully  set  the  gun  over  the  fence  first,  then  climb  it  a 
few  yards  away,  so  that  if  you  fall  you  won't  knock  the 
gun  down,  and  perhaps  explode  the  charge. 

103.  Dog. — Always  keep  your  dog  in  sight  when 


&AME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  43 

hunting  birds.  If  "treeing"  partridges  (ruffed  grouse), 
however,  with  a  spaniel,  this  is  not  necessary,  as  the 
spaniel  will  bark  when  he  has  treed  the  game. 

104.  Wind.— The  wind  should  blow  from  the  game 
toward  the  hunter, 

105.  Trespass.—  Look  out  for  trespass  signs  before 
shooting  or  fishing  in  a  strange  place.    Never  leave  a  gap 
in  a  fence  or  wall  you  may  have  to  get  over. 

106.  Powder. — Use  the  best  powder  you  can  get,  if 
it  does  cost  a  little  more.     The  difference  in  the  shooting 
will  more  than  repay  you.     Besides,  poor  powder  injures 
gun  barrels,  causing  them  to  rut  t  in  spots. 

1C  7.  Smokeless  Powder. — Setting  aside  the  ques- 
tion of  penetration  and  efficacy,  it  is  better  to  use  smoke- 
less powder  (wood  powder)  in  the  first  barrel,  where  it  is 
expected  a  second  shot  will  be  often  required. 

108.  Home-Cut  Wads.— If  you  cut   your   own 
wads,    cut  the  powder  wads  from  soft,  spongy,  clear 
leather,  and  lubricate  them  well  with  tallow  and  plum- 
bago.    Shot  wads  may  be  cut  from  pasteboard. 

109.  Loads  for  Grouse  Shooting.— In  the  early 
part  of  the  season  No.  6  shot  is  good  for  grouse;  later, 
say  in  November,  you  will  want  No.  4,  for  grouse  will 
carry  away  a  big  load  of  fine  shot,  and  seemingly  mind 
nothing  about  it. — Iron  Ramrod. 

1 1C.  Charges  for  Small-Gauge  Guns.— For  14, 16 

and  20-gauge  guns,  and  for  medium  and  small  game,  load 
with  2|  to  3£  drams  No.  1  (fine)  powder,  and  1  ounce  shot 
for  14-gauge;  2i  to  3  drams  No.  1  powder  and  1  ounce 
shot  for  16-gauge;  and  2£  to  2|  drams  No.  1  powder  and 
|  ounce  to  1  ounce  shot  for  20-gauge.— D.  W.  Cross. 

111.  Charges  for  lO-Gauge  Guns. — 1st,  For 
large  game,  such  as  deer,  turkey,  geese,  etc. ,  use  3|  to  4J 


44  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

drams  of  No.  1  (fine)  and  No.  3  (coarse)  powder,  mixed 
half-and-half,  with  two  pink-edged  wads  or  one  felt  wad 
over  the  powder,  and  1£  to  1£  ounces  shot,  from  No.  1  to 
BBs  inclusive,  with  one  Baldwin  wad  over  the  shot, 
the  wads  in  metallic  shells  to  be  two  sizes  larger  than  the 
gauge  of  the  gun;  in  paper  shells  one  size  larger  if  metal- 
lic moulds  are  used  in  loading,  to  prevent  the  bulging  and 
enlargement  of  the  paper  shell.  2d,  For  medium-sized 
game,  such  as  canvasbacks,  mallard,  redhead,  dusky 
ducks,  widgeon,  gad  wall,  pintail  and  birds  of  that  class, 
when  in  full  plumage:  4  to  4£  drams  of  fine  and  coarse 
mixed  powder,  as  in  No.  1,  and  same  kind  of  wads;  with 
1£  to  li  ounces  shot,  from  No.  5  to  No.  2  inclusive,  using 
your  judgment  in  choosing  about  the  proper  size  of  shot 
for  the  kind  of  shooting,  whether  canvasback,  etc.,  on 
points,  or  mallard,  etc.,  over  decoys.  3d,  For  small  game 
and  birds  that  usually  lie  close,  such  as  snipe,  woodcock, 
plover,  gallinule  (rail),  pinnated  and  ruffed  grouse,  teal, 
summer  ducks,  etc. :  4£  to  4£  drams  mixed  powder,  as  in 
No.  1,  wads  the  same,  with  1-J-  to  1£  ounces  of  shot,  from 
No.  9  to  No.  6  inclusive,  judging  always  which  is  the 
proper  sized  shot  for  the  work  in  hand ,  say  9s  and  8s  for 
snipe,  woodcock,  etc.,  and  7s  and  6s  for  grouse,  etc. — 
D.  W.  Cross. 

112.    Charges  for    12-Gauge    Guns.— 1st,   For 

shooting  large  game:  2f  to  3  drams  of  mixed  powder, 
Nos.  1  and  2  (Oriental,  for  instance),  one  pink-edged  or 
felt  wad  over  the  powder,  and  one  Baldwin  over  the  shot 
(in  all  small  gauges  two  wads  over  the  powder  increases 
the  recoil,  and  adds  but  a  trifle,  if  any,  to  the  penetration 
and  pattern),  with  1  ounce  of  shot,  from  No.  1  to  Bs 
inclusive.  2d,  For  medium-sized  game:  3  to  3£  drams 
powder  (mixed  1  and  2),  with  1  ounce  of  shot  from  No.  5 
to  No.  2  inclusive.  3d,  For  small  game  and  close-lying 
birds:  3i  to  4  drams  mixed  powder  (Nos.  1  and  2)  and  1 
ounce  shot  from  No.  9  to  No.  6  inclusive. — D.  W.  Cross. 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 


45 


%  oz.  No.  10 

1  oz.  No.  9 

oz.  No.  7 

oz.  No.  6 

oz.  No.  8 

oz.  No.  6 

oz.  No.  7 

oz.  No.  4 

cz.  No.  1 

oz.  No.  2 


Patterns. 


113.    Table    of  Charges    and   Patterns.— The 

charges  in  appended  table  are  for  a  gun  bored  for  general 
shooting,  and  will  give  good  results  at  the  various  kinds 
of  game  mentioned.  The  patterns  are  those  which  should 
be  made  by  the  same  gun,  in  a  30-inch  circle,  at  40  yards, 
with  Chicago  chilled  shot: 

FOR  16-GAUGE  GUN. 

Woodcock 2*4  drs. 

Snipe,  quail  and  plover 2*^  drs. 

Prairie  cbicken  (Aug.  and  Sept.)  —  2*£  drs. 
Prairie  chicken  (Oct.,  Nov.  and  Dec.)  2%  drs. 

Ruffed  grouse. 2*£  drs. 

Squirrels  and  rabbits 2*£  drs. 

Teals,  pintails,  etc 2%  drs. 

Mallards,  canvasbacks,  etc 3  drs. 

Geese  and  brant  3  drs. 

Turkeys 2%  drs. 

FOR  12-GAUGE  GUN. 

Woodcock. £*4  drs. 

Snipe 3*4  drs. 

Quail  and  plover 3*£  drs. 

Prairie  cbicken  (Aug.  and  Sept.)...  3*^  drs. 
Prairie  chicken  (Oct.,  Nov.  and  Dec.)  4  drs. 

Ruffed  grouse. 3*^  drs. 

Squirrels  and  rabbits.  3*£  drs. 

Teals,  pintails,  etc 3%  drs. 

Mallards,  canvasbacks,  etc 4  drs. 

Geese  and  brant 4  drs. 

Turkeys 4  drs. 

Deer  (cylinder  bore  only) 4  drs.  3  layers  of  buckshot. 

TRAP-SHOOTING. 

Live  pigeons  (wild) 4     drs. 

Live  pigeons  (tame) 4     drs. 

Clay  pigeons 3*£  drs. 

FOR  10-GAUGE  GUN. 

Woodcock. 4     drs. 

Snipe,  quail  and  plover 4     drs. 

Prairie  chicken  (Aug.  and  Sept.).  .  4  drs. 
Prairie  chicken  (Oct.,  Nov.  and  Dec.)  4*£  d  rs. 

Ruffed  grouse 4     drs. 

Squirrels  and  rabbits 4     drs. 

Teals,  pintails,  etc 4*4  drs. 

Mallards,  canvasbacks,  etc. ........  4*£  di  s. 

Geese  and  brant.  — ................  5     drs. 

Turkeys . . . .  — .......................  4*£  drs. 

Deer  (cylinder  bore  only) ....... 5    drs.    3  layers  buckshot 


1     oz.  No.  10 

1*6  oz.  No.  9 

1*6  oz.  No.  9 

1*6  oz.  No.  7 

1*6  oz   No.  6 

1*6  oz.  No.  8 

1*6  oz.  No.  6 

1*6  oz.  No.  7 

1*6  oz.  No.  5 

1     oz.  No.  1 

1*6  oz.  No.  4 


1*6  oz.  No.  7 
1*6  oz.  No.  8 
1*6  oz.  No.  8 


oz.  No.  10 
4J4  oz.  No.    9 
1M  oz.  No. 
1M  oz.  No. 
1^4  oz.  No. 
1M  oz.  No. 
1M  oz.  No. 
l^|oz.  No. 
1^  oz.  No. 
M  oz.  No. 


485 

390 

210 

155 

285 

158 

210 

85 

40 

52 

510 
405 
395 
220 
158 
300 
160 
218 
115 
45 
95 


205 
295 
300 

525 
415 
225 
168 
305 
172 
223 
120 
48 
100 


46 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 


TRAP-SHOOTING. 

Live  pigeons  (wild) 4%  <lrs. 

Live  pigeons  (tame) / ....  4^>  ^rs. 

Clay  pigeons. 4*4  drs. 


Patterns, 

IY±  oz.  No.  7  330 
1*4  oz.  No.  8  3a3 
1*4  oz.  No.  8  a05 


114,  Table  of  Cliamberlin  Charges.  —  The 
Chamberlin  shotgun  cartridges  for  game  shooting  are 
loaded  according  to  the  following  table;  first  quality 
with  A.  A.  Co.'s  Ducking  powder  and  pink-edge  wads; 
second  quality,  black-edge  wads: 


GAME. 

Gauge. 

Powder. 
Drains. 

Shot. 
Oz. 

Sora  Rail    etc     ."••••< 

12 
16 

2% 

H 

\V^oodcock 

20 
10 

4 

i% 

U 

3% 

i 

Snipe              

10 

4 

i/^ 

12 

m 

i>| 

Quail  

10 

i>t 

12 

3% 

Prairie  Chicken  

10 

4% 

i/^ 

It                                U 

12 

%% 

l/l 

Ruffed  Grouse  

10 

4^ 

iK 

n              t< 

12 

3% 

1/1 

Squirrel  

10 

4% 

IK 

12 

3K 

1M 

Teal  

10 

4K 

IK 

12 

oX 

1>I 

Pintail  

10 

4>/ 

iv 

12 

$ 

iH 

Mallard  

10 

4% 

IV 

u 

12 

'3% 

iK 

Redhead  

10 

4\4 

IV 

<( 

12 

3% 

1)1 

Canvasback  

10 

4X 

IV 

13 

3% 

1>5 

Turkey  '.  

10 

5 

IV 

12 

3% 

l>i 

Goose  

10 

5 

IV 

12 

39^ 

1^ 

Size  and 
Kind  of  !Sh.ot. 


10  Trap 

10  Shot 
10  Shot 
9  Shot 
9  Shot 
8  Trap 
8  Trap 
8  Shot 
8  Shot 
7  Trap 
7  Trap 
6  Shot 

6  Shot 

7  Shot 
7  Shot 
6  Shot 
(5  Shot 
5  Shot 
5  Shot 
4  Shot 
4  Shot 
3  Shot 
3  Shot 
2  Shot 
2  Shot 
BB 
BB 


115.  Charges  for  G-Gauge  Grims.— 1st,  For  large 
game:  4|  to  5  drams  No.  3  (coarse)  powder  and  1^  to  1| 
ounces  shot  from  No.  1  to  treble  SG,  using  two  pink- 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  47 

edged  wads  or  one  felt  wad  over  powder  and  one  wad 
over  shot,  two  sizes  larger  than  gauge  of  gun.  2d,  For 
medium  game:  5  to  6  drams  of  No.  3  (coarse)  powder  and 
1£  to  2  ounces  shot,  from  No.  8  to  No.  2  inclusive,  wad 
the  same  as  in  No.  1. — D.  W.  Cross. 

116.  Chilled  Shot. — Chilled  shot  will  often  go  clean 
through  game,  where  soft  shot  would  only  go  half  through. 
But  a  wound  from  chilled  shot  is  likely  to  close  up,  while 
soft  shot  will  make  an  open  wound  that  is  sure  death. 
Chilled  shot  is  thought  by  some  people  to  wear  out  the 
choke  in  a  gun  very  rapidly. 

117.  Flight    of  Birds. — The    process   of    normal 
flight  may  be  considered  to  be  due  to  two  influences — the 
muscular  effort  of  elevation,  and  the  muscular  relaxation 
of  sliding  down  an  inclined  plane,  which  view  may  tend 
to  simplify  the  explanation  ventured  on.     When  the  bird 
flashes  clown  the  wing  at  A  (Fig.  1),  the  body  is  thereby 


FIG.  1.— UNDULATORY  COURSE  OF  FLIGHT. 

raised  to  a  higher  level  at  B  than  the  end  of  the  previous 
slope  in  the  air,  and  at  the  next  step  the  wings  are  held 
out  horizontally  while  descent  is  begun  down  a  short  in- 
clined plane,  BC,  where  they  have  become  relaxed,  and 
are  now  pointed  upward.  On  arriving  hero  another  flash 


FlG.  2.— ALTERNATE    ACTION    AND   REACTION    OF    THE    WINGS    IN 
FLIGHT. 

of  the  wings  is  made  downward,  and  the  bird  rises  to  D, 
at  the  summit  of  the  next  slope,  when  again  the  wings  are 


48  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

extended  horizontally,  when  relaxation  begins,  and  termi- 
nates at  the  bottom  of  the  incline  at  E,  where  they  are 
let  go,  and  elevated  previous  to  the  next  muscular  effort. 
This  method  of  action  may  be  repeated  rapidly,  so  that 
there  might  be  continual  napping  of  the  wings  indicating 
short  rises  and  short  slopes  in  progression.  Or,  again,  if 
the  inclines  are  lengthened  out  unduly  over  the  rises,  an 
appearance  of  a  bird  sailing  through  the  air  is  produced, 
when  there  is  a  flap  only  rarely  given  by  the  wings.  If 
the  wings  of  a  bird  seem  to  be  elevated  we  may  suppose 
that  it  is  at  the  bottom  of  the  incline,  or  with  wings  de- 
pressed we  may  suppose  it  to  be  at  the  top  of  the  rise. 
The  horizontal  flight  of  birds  with  wings  observed  to  be 
flapping  would  probably,  therefore,  consist  of  a  series  of 
undulations,  or  rises  and  falls,  like  the  tracings  of  a 
sphygmograph,  representing  circulation  or  respiration. 
The  up  and  down  flappings  of  the  wings  would  correspond 
with  the  down  and  up  curves  of  the  line  of  flight,  and 
these  again  with  descent  and  ascent  of  the  body  of  the 
bird,  to  which  it  would  really  tally,  and  not  with  the 
motion  of  the  wings  (Fig.  2). — Avis,  in  Land  and  Water. 

118.  Speed  of  Birds'  Flight.— The  highest  speed 
of  flight  per  hour  of  birds  in  full  plumage  is  estimated  as 
follows:  Crow,  25  to  40  miles;  mallard,  black  duck  and 
shoveler,  40  to  50;  pintail,  50  to  60;  wood  duck,  55  to  60; 
widgeon  and  gadwall,  60  to  70;  redhead,  80  to  90;  blue- 
wingedand  red-winged  teal,  80  to  100;  bluebill,  80  to  110; 
canvasback,  80  to  120;  sparrow,  40  to  92;  hawk,  40  to  150; 
wild  geese,  80  to  90.     The  distance  traveled  by  birds  in  * 
second  is  as  follows:  At  rate  of  5  miles  per  hour,  .92  feet; 
rate  of  10  miles  per  hour,  1.83  feet;  rate  of  12  miles,  2.2  feet; 
20  miles,  3.66  feet;  30  miles,  5.5  feet;  40  miles,  7. 33  feet;  60 
miles,  11  feet;  80  miles,  14.66  feet;  90  miles,  16.05  feet; 
100 miles,  18.33 feet;  120  miles,  22 feet;  150 miles,  27.5  feet. 

119.  Shooting-  on  the  Wing:.— Shooting  on  the 
wing  is  a  mechanical  art,  like  billiard  playing,  boxing  or 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  49 

fencing.  There  will,  of  course,  be  degrees  of  excellence; 
but  any  one  with  the  full  use  of  his  faculties  and  the  am- 
bition necessary  to  success  in  anything,  can  acquire  it. 
The  secret  lies  "in  the  hand  becoming  subservient  to  the 
eye."  The  two  must  be  connected  by  electricity.  The  eye 
is  never  at  fault;  if  it  were  there  would  be  little  hope  of 
improvement;  but  any  one  may  improve  tile  quickness  of 
the  muscles.  Like  the  expertness  of  conjurers  in  the  art 
of  manipulation,  the  same  practice  applied  to  the  gun 
will  make  the  brilliant  shot.  Every  one  can  see  quick 
enough.  Let  out  a  bird  from  a  trap  before  500  persons, 
and  they  will  all  see  it  at  the  same  instant,  but  only  the 
practiced  shot  can  throw  up  a  gun  to  his  shoulder  with 
accurate  aim  and  a  simultaneously  pulled  trigger  before 
it  has  flown  10  feet.  A  sportsman  should  shoot  game  the 
same  as  an  Indian  shoots  his  arrow,  by  looking  at  the 
object  with  both  eyes  open.  It  may  be  done  by  closing 
one  eye,  but  there  is  nothing  gained  by  it.  There  are  two 
ways  of  shooting  on  the  wing.  One,  to  throw  up  the  gun 
to  the  shoulder  and  pull  the  trigger  at  the  same  moment, 
termed  "»nap  shooting."  The  other,  equally  good,  and 
better  to  begin  with,  and  more  certain  upon  the  whole, 
particularly  in  open  shooting,  is  to  follow  the  bird,  and, 
when  covered,  fire  while  the  gun  is  in  motion.  But  when 
you  pull  the  trigger  the  other  hand  has  a  tendency  to 
stop;  that  misses  the  bird.  But  education  will  teach  it 
not  to  stop,  the  same  as  we  teach  both  hands  a  different 
action  while  playing  on  the  piano. 

1  2O.  Missing  Wing1  Shots.— When  you  miss  a  fly- 
ing bird  try  to  find  the  reason  for  the  miss,  and  next  time 
avoid  the  error. 

121.  Confidence  in  Wing  Shooting.— You  must 
have  confidence  in  yourself.  Make  up  your  mind  that 
you  will  get  the  first  bird  that  starts;  and  when  one  does 
start,  if  you  can  see  him,  let  him  have  it,  if  there  is  even 
a  ghost  of  a  chance  of  killing  him. 


50  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

122.  Holding- Ahead.— It  is  evident  to  all  that  if 
a  bird  is  flying  from  the  point  A  to  the  point  B,  a  certain 

length  of  time  must  elapse  before  the  bird 
reaches  B.  Also,  that  a  certain  length  of 
time  must  elapse  before  a  charge  of  shot 
from  the  point  C  can  reach  B;  and  in  order 
*  that  the  bird  and  the  shot  shall  reach  B  at 
the  same  instant,  the  gun  must  be  held  far 
enough  ahead,  so  that  the  time  required 

for  the  bird  and  the  shot  each  to  reach  B  at  the  same 

instant  must  be  the  same. 

123.  Coolness  in  Wing  Shooting.— Coolness  is  an 
important  quality  of  the  mind  in  wing  shooting.     It  is  a 
matter  of  temperament,  but  can  be  sometimes  acquired. 
A  French  writer  says:  ** After  the  bird  rises  take  a  pinch 
of  snuff  before  you  shoot."    By  counting  three  before  you 
pull  trigger  you  will  thus  give  the  bird  time  to  get  intt> 
its  regular  flight,  your  eye  gets  a  clear  view  of  distance 
and  velocity,  and  your  nerves,  which  were  startled  by 
the  sudden  whirr,  become  settled. 

124.  Quickness  in  Wing  Shooting.— To  acquire 
quickness  in  wing  shooting  practice  using  the  gun  fifteen 
minutes  daily  in  the  house.     Practice  throwing  it  up  to 
your  shoulder,  hammer  down,  both  eyes  open,  and  point- 
ing at  any  small  object  in  the  room.     Then  look  with  one 
eye  along  the  barrel  to  verify  your  correctness  of  aim ; 
then  follow  two  imaginary  birds,  first  to  the  left,  then  to 
the  right,  pull  the  trigger  at  some  object  in  passing,  and 
see  that  the  motion  of  following  is  not  checked.     When 
you  think  that  you  are  tolerably  perfect  in  this  action  try 
snapping  a  cap,  quickly,  at  a  lighted  candle  at  10  feet 
distance,  also  at  one  suspended  by  a  string,  to  which  you 
can  give  a  pendulous  motion,  and  when  you  can  blow  the 
candle  out  five  times  out  of  six,  there  is  little  more  to  be 
learned. 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  51 

125.  Flock  Shooting-. — In  shooting  at  a  number  of 
birds  flying  together,  always  select  one  bird  for  the  aim, 
as  near  the  head  of  the  flight  as  possible,  unless  shooting 
in  company,  when  each  hunter  aims  at  the  position  of 
the  flock  nearest  his  station. 

126.  Birds  Rising  to  Flight.—  Birds  rise  to  flight 
against  the  wind.    Shoot  when  the  bird  is  just  on  the  turn 
or  is  steadying  itself  in  the  air  after  rising. 

127o  Bird  About  to  Alight.— A  bird  about  to 
alight  on  the  ground  is  falling,  and  at  such  time  your  aim 
should  be  under. 

128.  Bird  Coming*  Head  On. — Don't  shoot  at  a 
bird  flying  toward  you,  but  let  it  pass  first.  In  the  first 
case  you  shoot  against  the  thick  breast  feathers;  in  the 
second  case  under  the  feathers. 

12$).  Rising*  Shots. — In  shooting  grouse  in  cover, 
always  bring  the  muzzle  of  your  gun  up  on  your  bird 
from  below  if  rising  shots— and  they  almost  all  are.  Don't 
try  to  shoot  on  the  "drop,"  as  it  is  termed,  for  then  the 
gun  is  falling  and  the  bird  is  rising,  and  you  have  twenty 
chances  to  miss  where  you  have  one  to  kill 

130.  Straightaway  Shots. — When  a  grouse  starts, 
nine  times  out  of  ten  he  will  start  from  the  ground. 
If  he  is  going  straightaway  from  you,  throw  up  your  gun 
so  as  to  shoot  a  little  over  where  you  see  him,  and.  by  the 
time  your  gun  gets  up  and  discharged,  he  will  have 
flown  right  into  the  shower  of  shot. 

131.  Right  or  Left  Shots.— If  a  bird  starts  toward 
the  right  or  left,  throw  up  your  gun  so  as  to  shoot  a  little 
high  and  in  advance  of  him,  say  from  1  to  3  feet;  you 
must  use  your  judgment  about  that,  and  be  governed  by 
the  speed  of  the  bird  and  the  surroundings,  etc.     Follow 
the  bird  with  jour  eyes,   and  your   hands  will  uncon- 
sciously follow  your  eyes  with  the  gun.  A  "right-handecT 


52  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

hunter  has  to  make  more  allowance  for  speed  when  a 
bird  is  flying  to  the  right,  generally,  and  vice  versa. 

132.  Snooting  One  Barrel.— In    a    double    gun 
shoot  each  barrel  alternately,  or  after  shooting  the  right 
barrel  put  the  left  barrel  shell  into  the  right  barrel  for 
the  next  shot,  and  the  fresh  shell  into  the  left  barrel. 
Neglect  of  this  rule  causes  loosened  shot  in  the  shell  or 
barrel  which  is  not  used. 

133.  Shooting  Over  a  Pointing  Dog.— After 
your  dog  has  pointed,  if  you  are  disposed  to  be  nervous, 
remain  perfectly  quiet  for  a  full  minute.     This  will  serve 
to  steady  you,  and  will  teach  the  dog  habits  of  stanch- 
ness.     In  the  meantime,  cast  your  eyes  around,  to  see  in 
what  direction  the  birds  are  likely  to  fly  when  flushed. 
If  there  is  a  cover  of  any  sort,  woods  or  swamps,  within 
a  radius  of  three  hundred  yards,  you  may  be  sure  the 
birds  will  make  for  it;  and,  in  the  absence  of  woods  and 
swamps  within  reach,  if  there  be  a  depression  or  hollow, 
or  fence  overgrown  with  grasses  or  briers  and  weeds,  the 
chances  are  that  the  birds  will  go  there.     After  you  have 
taken  this  observation,  settle,  as  well  as  you  can,  from 
the  direction  in  which  the  birds  are  likely  to  fly.     This 
plan  possesses  two  advantages;    the  birds,  in  passing, 
should  they  persist  in  going  to  the  covers,  will  give  the 
sportsman  the  fairest  possible  shot,  with  the  chances  of 
his  striking  a  vital  part  considerably  increased  over  a 
dead-away  one;    and  in  using  tae    second  barrel,  the 
smoke  from  the  first  does  not  interfere.     A  covey  has 
been  kept  by  these  tactics  from  dense  cover,  into  which 
it  would  have  been  folly  to  have  followed  them.    Walk 
your  birds  up  slowly  and  deliberately;  do  not  rush  on 
them,  as  though  you  were  frightening  an  obstreperous 
pig;  and  do  not  shoot  the  moment  they  get  out  of  cover; 
you  will  miss  entirely,  or  tear  your  bird  up  so  that  it  will 
be  useless.     Wait  till  the  bird  has  passed  you  if  they  per- 
sist to  cover,  or,  in  other  words,  in  passing  cross  shots; 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  53 

Or,  if  they  be  going  straightaway,  until  fully  twenty 
paces  off. 

134.  Marking'  Down  Birds. — If  the  sportsman  is 
not  provided  with  a  marker,  he  ought  to  try  to  mark  his 
birds  down  as  well  as  he  can;  this  is  not  so  easily  done 
when  he  uses  both  barrels  at  the  rise;  he  can,  however, 
locate  the  bird  very  nearly,  or,  if  his  dog  be  an  adept  at 
the  business,  he  will  assist  very  materially.     Practice  in 
marking  can  alone  make  perfect.     The  best  plan  is  to 
keep  the  eye  well  ahead  of  the  birds;  when  they  are 
ready  to  alight  they  will  perform  the  arc  of  a  circle, 
fold  their  wings,  and  come  to  grass. 

135.  Approaching   Marked    Down    Birds.— 

When  approaching  the  ground  where  the  birds  likely 
dropped,  send  the  dog  forward,  steadying  him  by  fre- 
quent commands,  and  making  him  work  always  directly 
in  front,  swinging  backward  and  forward  after  the  man- 
ner of  a  pendulum.  If  the  sportsman  finds  the  birds  run 
after  alighting,  and  the  dog  is  disposed  to  road  them  up 
by  ground  scent,  check  him  sharply,  bringing  him  to 
heel;  make  a  detour,  so  as  to  get  beyond  the  birds,  then 
work  toward  them  from  the  direction  in  which  they  are 
running,  otherwise  the  strong  scent,  arising  from  ground 
and  coining  down  wind,  confuses  him,  and  he  is  apt  to 
make  a  long  point,  if  cautious,  or  to  flush  his  birds  out- 
right, if  disposed  to  press  his  points.  If,  however,  the 
birds  have  not  moved,  keep  the  dog  well  in  hand,  hunt- 
ing thoroughly  every  part  of  the  ground,  over  and  over 
again  if  nece-sary.  Frequently  they  lie  so  close  they  will 
suffer  themselves  to  be  trodden  on  before  taking  wing. 
When  at  last  the  dog  makes  point,  approach  him  cau- 
tiously; the  probabilities  are  very  strong  that  you  will 
spring  one  or  more  birds  in  going  to  him,  and,  remember 
one  thing — never  budge  an  inch  without  being  ready 
for  instant  work.  After  he  has  walked  up  the  pointed 
bird,  the  sportsman's  ears  may  any  moment  be  assailed 


64  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

with  the  sharp  whirr  of  hurrying  wings.  Do  not  leave 
the  ground  until  you  have  sprung  something  like  the 
number  of  birds  you  may  think  dropped  there. 

136.  Rifle  Hints  for  Shotgun  Hunters.— The 

first  thing  to  be  done  when  a  deer  starts  is  to  remember 
that  you  have  a  rifle  in  your  hands  and  not  a  shotgun. 
The  number  that  can  be  missed,  even  inside  of  25  yards, 
with  a  rifle  fired  as  a  shotgun,  by  good  shots  on  quail  or 
woodcock,  is  perfectly  amazing.  A  deer  m  market  or  in 
a  picture  looks  quite  large,  but  in  reality  they  are  a  very 
small  mark.  There  is  around  them  an  immense  amount 
of  vacancy,  and  the  tendency  of  a  bullet  to  find  it  is 
marvellous.—  Van  Dyke. 

137.  Sights  for  the  Hunting  Rifle.— The  sights 
should  be  moderately  coarse,  and  the  front  one  of  ivory, 
except  for  hunting  on  snow,  where  brass  or  gold  is  the 
best.     File  off  the  "  buckhorn  "  sides  of  the  back  sight,  so 
that  you  can  get  a  clear  view  of  your  game  when  holding 
ahead  of  it.     The  "  buckhorns  "  are  really  of  no  use  but 
to  prevent  reflection  of  light  from  the  corners  of  the 
notch,  and  this  you  can  do  as  well  by  rusting  them  with 
iodine  or  acid.     I  go  so  far  as  to  cut  down  the  sides  until 
the  notch  stands  in  a  little  cupola  in  the  middle,  afford- 
ing a  perfect  view  all  around  it.    I  find  such  a  one  worth 
a  cartload  of  buckhorn  sights,  though  it  takes  a  little 
practice  to  get  used  to  it,  when  it  is  caught  just  as 
quickly  by  the  eye  as  any  other. — Van  Dyke. 

138.  Throwing  Rifle  Ahead  of  Game.— It  is 

not  necessary  to  throw  your  rifle  ahead  of  the  game  when 
you  first  raise  it.  But  it  is  always  expedient  to  do  so.  If 
you  raise  it  directly  on  the  mark  the  temptation  to  pull  is 
often  too  strong  to  resist. 

139.  Practice    for    Running    Rifle     Shots.— 

Good  practice  with  a  rifle  may  be  had  with  a  small  wheel 
rolled  where  you  can  see  the  balls  strike;  and  if  you  can 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  55 

make  the  wheel  bounce  by  obstructions  on  a  hillside  it 
will  be  much  better.— Van  Dyke. 

140.  The  Trigger  for  Running  Rifle  Shots.— 

For  running  shots  a  set  trigger  is  an  abomination;  equally 
so  is  the  3-pound  pull.  It  should  be  so  that  a  moder- 
ate jerk  will  fire  it  without  disturbing  your  sight,  and 
without  the  necessity  of  beginning  a  moderate  pressure 
as  you  would  with  a  hard  trigger  at  a  target.  About  |  to 
If  pounds  is  about  right,  though  for  a  heavy  rifle  2  pounds 
would  perhaps  be  easy  enough. 

141.  Coolness  in  Rifle    Shooting". — Remember 
that  coolness  is  absolutely  indispensable  and  that  haste 
will  do  you  no  good.    Let  quickness  come  with  time,  and 
practice  slowly  and  carefully.     Do  not  be  beguiled  into 
fast  shooting  at  that  Creeclmoor  target;  make  it  your  first 
point  to  hit,  and  don't  shoot  at  first  more  than  once  on 
one  run,  unless  you  have  a  double-barreled  rifle.     Let 
others  try  to  see  how  big  a  hail  storm  of  bullets  they  can 
get  up  in  a  given  time  if  they  like  it,  and  don't  be  at  all 
bothered  if  by  so  doing  they  happen  to  make  more  points 
than  you.     You  will  in  the  end  do  by  far  the  best  work 
on  game  if  you  take  it  easy  and  make  accuracy  the  first 
point. — Van  Dyke. 

142.  Magazine  Rifles  on  Game.— Fire  every  shot 
from  a  magazine  rifle  with  as  much  care  as  if  it  were 
your  last  ball.  .  Fast  "pumping  "  never  succeeds  so  well 
as  careful  aiming,  and  it  tends  to  carelessness. 

143.  Shooting  Beyond   the    Point    Blank.— 

There  will  be  generally  little  use  in  shooting  beyond  the 
point  blank  of  your  rifle;  unless  in  cases  where  there  is 
no  probability  of  your  deer  stopping  for  a  standing  shot. 

144.  Rifle  on  Game  Down  Hill.— The  tendency 
in  aiming  down  hill  is  to  overshoot,  except  on  a  very  long 
shot  (GOO  to  1,000  feet)  down  a  very  steep  hill,  when  the 
tendency  is  to  undershoot. 


56 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 


145.  Hillside   Shooting  with  Rifle.— Let  A  be 

the  position  of  the  hunter,  B  the  position  of  the  animal 
aimed  at  on  mountain  side.  The  solution  is:  In  aiming 
be  governed  by  the  horizontal  distance  A  C,  or  distance 


to  a  point  perpendicularly  over  the  animal.  Reversing 
the  positions,  with  the  hunter  at  B  and  animal  at  A,  in 
aiming  be  still  governed  by  the  horizontal  distance  A  C. 
In  other  words,  take  no  account  of  the  height  (C  B)  you 
may  be  above  the  animal,  or  the  air  line  distance  A  B, 
but  be  governed  entirely  by  the  horizontal  distance,  A  C, 
which  is  much  more  easily  estimated  than  the  distance 
A  B,  generally  thought  to  control  the  aim  In  afterward 
bringing  these  principles  into  practice  I  never  failed  to 
hit  my  game.  The  last  time  they  were  used  upon  two 
bull  elk,  at  least  200  yards  down  a  mountain  side,  which 
was  estimated  to  be  much  further.  From  an  overesti- 
mate of  distance  the  two  first  shots  missed.  Taking  new 
reckoning  of  distance,  and  making  use  of  above  princi- 
ples, the  elk  standing  apparently  dazed  from  the  unex- 
pected reports,  the  next  eight  consecutive  shots  were  put 
through  the  two  elk  before  getting  out  of  reach. — W.  D.  P., 

14G.  Estimating  Distance  in  Hunting  with 

the  Kifle.— Overestimating  distance  of  game  is  a  mis- 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.          57 

take  that  is  amazingly  common.  It  will  almost  always 
occur  with  beginners,  except  when  game  are  across  water, 
across  smooth,  clean  snow,  or  from  one  high  hill  to  an- 
other where  the  intervening  valley  has  a  broad  bottom. 
In  these  three  cases  underestimating  distance  is  the  rule. 

147.  Overshooting  Game  with  Rifle.— The  ten- 
dency to  overshoot  game  with  a  rifle  is  one  of  the  remark- 
able and  inexplicable  things  about  hunting,  and  this 
tendency  is  especially  strong  on  running  game.     For  this 
reason  file  the  back  sight  flat  on  top.     If  the  sides  are 
higher  than  the  center  notch,  there  will  be  a  constant 
tendency  to  shoot  too  high  from  trying  to  see  your  game 
above  them.    With  a  little  practice  you  can  catch  this 
sight  quite  as  quick  and  shoot  just  as  well  as  with  the 
back  sight,  which  for  good  work  is  only  a  useless  nui- 
sance.    I  go  still  further,  and  cut  down  the  sides  about 
one-twentieth  of  an  inch,  leaving  about  one-sixteenth  of 
an  inch  on  each  side  of  the  center  notch  (which  is  simply 
a  fine  split)  standing  above  the  rest  of  the  sight.     Over 
the  sides  of  this  I  can  get  a  clear  view  of  the  whole  body, 
even  to  the  feet  of  a  deer  in  any  way  he  may  run.     I  find 
that  I  can  catch  this  sight  just  as  quick  as  any  other,  after 
a  little  practice,  and  am  not  half  so  apt  to  overshoot. — 
Van  Dyke. 

148.  Rifle  Shooting-  at  Night.— To  shoot  at  night 
chalk  the  top  of  the  barrel,  from  breech  to  muzzle. 

149.  Rifle  Shooting  in  Cover. — In  hunting  in  the 
woods  you  must  watch  three  things:    1st  your  sight,  2d 
the  deer,  3d  the  trees.     Where  trees  are  very  thick  it  is 
often  best  to  pick  out  an  open  place  and  throw  your 
sights  into  that,  firing  just  as  the  deer  gets  within  the 
right  distance  from  them.     But  be  sure  and  not  wait 
until  he  touches  the  line  of  your  sights  or  you  will  miss 
him  if  he  is  going  at  any  rate  of  speed  or  is  at  any 
distance. 


58  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

150.  The  Rifle  on  Deer. — Use  a  rifle  having  the 
flattest  possible  trajectory  up  to   150  yards,  and  never 
raise  the  sights  (taking  coarse  front  sights  or  holding 
high  on  game)  unless  very  certain  of  its  necessity,  and 
when  in  any  doubt  always  decide  on  the  level  sight.     If 
not  very  familiar  with  the  trajectory  of  long-range  rifles, 
you  will  be  apt  to  miss  deer  from  100  to  140  or  150  yards 
by  holding  a  level  sight  on  them  and  having  the  ball  drop 
under.    And  after  you  do  know  their  trajectory,  you  will 
be  extremely  liable  to  undershoot  in  trying  to  avoid  the 
danger  of  overestimating  distance,  and  to  overshoot  the 
next  one,  perhaps,  in  trying  to  avoid  the  previous  error. 
Paradoxical  as  it  may  seem,  the  longer  the  range  of  a 
rifle  the  worse  it  is  for  hitting  game  from  90  up  to  200 
yards     Don't  shoot  at  the  middle  of  a  deer.    A  deer  hit 
anywhere  from  three  inches  back  of  the  shoulder  to  the 
hip,  unless  the  backbone  or  kidneys  be  touched,  can  run 
for  miles  unless  shot  with  an  extra  large  bill,  and  often 
even  then  unless  the  ball  is  expansive.      In  such  case  let 
it  alone  until  it  lies  down  and  sickens,  and  don't  go  after 
it  even  then,  if  you  can  possibly  get  around  or  above  it 
for  another  shot.     ID,  or  just  behind  the  shoulder,  about 
one-third  the  way  up,  is  the  best  place  to  shoot,  if  you 
can  get  a  chance;  but  you  will  have  to  take  shots  just 
where  you  can  get  them,  especially  on  the  run. 

151.  Shooting  Bounding-   Deer. — Generally   a 
running  deer  is  a  bounding  deer  and  often  a  bouncing 
deer.    The  black-tailed  deer,  especially,  often  runs  as  if 
bouncing  on  India  rubber,  rising,   apparently   without 
effort,  from.  1  to  2  feet  at  every  jump.  When  running  over 
ground  that  is  rough,  rocky,  covered  with  logs  or  low 
brush,  a  deer  is  nearly  always  jumping  with  high  and 
often  irregular  springs.     Now  (unless  very  close),  just  as 
surely  as  you  shoot  at  where  he  is,  just  so  surely  will  the 
ball  strike  where  he  is  not.    The  best  way  is  to  catch  him 
as  he  strikes  the  ground,  and  for  this  purpose,  where  you 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  59 

have  time,  you  must  keep  the  rifle  ahead  of  him  for  sev- 
eral bounds,  until  you  catch  the  length  and  height  of  his 
jump.  Then,  when  he  is  at  the  highest  point,  shoot  at 
the  spot  where  he  will  be  when  he  strikes  the  ground, 
and,  above  all,  be  sure  and  pull  when  he  is  in  the  air.  To 
get  the  right  distance  ahead,  and  at  the  same  time  the 
right  elevation,  and  pull  just  at  the  right  time,  is  a  very 
nice  operation,  and  a  miss  is  never  discreditable;  but, 
with  care  and  coolness,  you  will  in  this  way  make  shots 
over  which  you  will  chuckle  for  a  month.  If  a  deer  be 
running  low  you  may  disregard  this  up  and  down  motion, 
and  if  running  very  fast  you  must  disregard  it;  but  when 
bounding  high  you  cannot  overlook  it  with  safety,  and  in 
Straightaway  shots  you  must  hold  about  for  his  knees 
when  he  is  up.— Fan  Dyke. 

152.  The  Rifle  oil  Beer  and  Hares.— A  deer  sel- 
dom runs  at  full  race-horse  speed.  His  usual  gait  is  a 
graceful  canter  or  springing  jumps.  Still  he  is  going 
faster,  and  your  bullet  is  much  slower  than  you  suppose. 
A  hare  (California  jack  rabbit)  under  full  speed,  at  50 
yards,  wants  about  5  feet  margin,  running  at  a  light  gait, 
about  2-|  or  2.  Running  quartering  at  40  or  50  yards  I  have 
repeatedly  struck  just  behind  them,  although  holding  a 
foot  ahead.  And  even  when  running  at  a  very  sharp 
angle  to  the  line  of  fire,  I  have  invariably  made  the  dust 
fly  behind  them  when  holding  directly  on,  and  this  too, 
at  not  over  twenty  paces  distance.  Holding  ahead  must 
never  be  neglected  unless  your  deer  is  very  close  or  going 
very  slow,  and  even  then  it  will  be  safe  to  hold  off  the 
body,  even  though  it  may  also  be  safe  enough  to  hold  on. 
At  a  deer  driven  toward  me,  and  coming  on  a  course  so 
slightly  quartering  that  he  would  have  passed  within  20 
yards  of  me  (or,  as  our  Creedmoor  riflemen  would  aptly 
express  it,  coming  like  an  11  o'clock  wind),  I  fired  at 
about  75  yards.  I  held  just  so  as  to  see  a  strip  of  daylight 
ahead  of  his  breast,  ind  struck  in  the  middle.  These 


60  SAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

distances  are  taken  from  shooting  done  with  a  .44-rifle, 
70  grains  of  powder,  and  the  long-range  (530  grains)  ball. 
With  77  grains  of  powder  I  could  see  no  difference  in 
practicing  on  hares,  although  with  a  round  ball  the  dif- 
ference is  perceptibly  less  at  100,  and  even  up  to  120  or 
130  yards,  though  not  enough  to  be  of  much  consequence 
for  deer.  In  shooting  from  a  running  horse  it  will,  of 
course,  not  be  necessary  to  hold  abead  where  the  speed  is 
equal. —  Van  Dyke. 

153.  Hounding  Deer. — Deer  have  certain  runs, 
generally  upon  the  dividing  ridges  and  through  the  swags 
of  ridges.    Standers  are  placed  on  these  runs  and  the 
driver  takes  his  dogs,  from  two  to  a  dozen  or  more,  and 
generally  drives  against  the  wind,  which  is  the  way  deer, 
especially  old  bucks,  always  run.     The  deer  hunter  that 
understands  his  business,  in  taking  a  stand  to  wait  for 
the  driver  to  drive  out  tke  deer,  always  takes  his  position 
against  a  tree,  fronting  the  way  he  expects  the  deer  to 
come.     In  standing  for  deer  you  should  never  get  behind 
anything,  for  the  deer  is  almost  certain  to  see  you  move, 
and  then  he  will  change  his  direction. 

154.  Still-Hunting  Deer.— The  best  time  for  still- 
hunting  is  in  running  time,  in  the  months  of  October  and 
November,  after  ths  does  are  with  fawn  and  are  running 
and  hiding  from  the  bucks.     When  you  see  a  doe  running 
through  the  woods,  go  and  take  your  position  in  shooting 
distance  of  where  she  passed,  and  keep  a  sharp  lookout 
the  way  she  came,  and  often,  in  a  very  few  minutes,  you 
will  see  a  buck  coming,  tracking  her.     Let  him  come  up 
near  enough  for  you  to  get  a  fair  shot,  bleat  or  whistle  at 
him  and  he  will  stop.     If  you  are  a  marksman,  then  you 
will  have  venison.     Still- hunting  in  the  months  of  Octo- 
ber and  November  is  the  most  successful  way  of  hunting. 
Sportsmen  that  are  good  rifle  shots  are  the  most  success- 
ful still-hunting.     Shotguns  will  do  for  driving,  but  rifles 
are  the  best  to  use  in  still-hunting. 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  61 

155.  Slow-Tracking  Deer. —Slow-tracking  deer 
with  a  dog  is  a  very  successful  way  of  hunting.     The 
dog,  from  a  small  puppy,  must  be  trained.    A  half-hound 
is  generally  preferred.     A  cross  of  a  hound  and  cur  or 
bulldog  is  best,  as  the  hound  gives  the  acute  scent,  and 
the  bulldog  or  cur  the  speed  and  bravery  to  take  hold 
when  he  conies  in  contact  with  a  crippled  deer.     The  dog 
is  trained  to  follow  the  track  by  scent  in  a  slow  walk, 
and  you  follow  the  dog  ten  or  twenty  feet  behind,  a^nd 
keep  a  sharp  lookout  for  the  deer.     When  the  dog  has  a 
strong  scent  of  the  deer  you  can  discern  it  by  the  precau- 
tion he  uses,  and  when  he  sees  them  he  stops  and  waits 
for  you  to  shoot,  arid  at  the  fire  of  the  gun  he  does  not 
break  and  run,  but  waits  to  see  what  you  want  done.     If 
you  have  crippled  the  deer  urge  him  on,  and  if  it  be  badly 
crippled  he  will  catch  it  and  kill  it,  and  you  wait  on  the 
track  where  he  started  from  when  you  urged  him,  and 
he  will  return  and  take  you  to  the  dead  deer.     This  is 
the  most  successful  way  of  hunting,  and  by  it  you  can 
find  out  more  about  the  habits  of  the  deer  than  from  any 
other  mode  of  hunting. 

156.  Dead.  Deer.— A  deer's  throat  should  be  cut 
and  entrails  drawn  at  once  after  it  is  killed. 

157.  Dead  Deer  in  Water. — A  deer  in  the  red 
coat  sinks,  while  that  in  the  blue  coat  floats,  without 
regard  to  the  fatness  or  leanness  of  the  animal. 

158.  Deer  and  Moonlight. — Where  deer  are  com- 
paratively undisturbed  they  feed  nearly  as  much  in  the 
day  as  in  the  night,  when  the  moon  is  up.     If  the  moon 
has  shone  all  night  they  will  lie*  quiet  all  the  next  day. 
When  the  moon  has  been  up  all  day  they  will  lie  quiet  all 
night.     During  the  last  quarter  of  the  moon,  when  the 
moon  has  been  down  nearly  all  day,  they  become  very 
hungry  and  feed  nearly  all  night,  so  that  is  the  best  time 
to  fire- hunt.     If  you  wish  to  still-hunt,  go  when  the  moon 


62  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

rises  or  is  yet  up,  whether  forenoon  or  afternoon.  If  you 
hunt  with  dogs  go  at  other  times,  as  they  will  be  sluggish 
and  won't  run  far  ahead  of  the  hounds.  The  best  time 
to  fire-hunt  is  a  dark,  cloudy  night  when  the  moon  is  up. 

159.  Hanging  up  a  Deer  —After  inserting  a  gam- 
brel  in  the  hindlegs  of  the  animal  in  the  usual  manner, 
cut  a  couple  of  crotches  about  eight  feet  long,  then  bend 
down  a  springy  sapling  and  insert  the  top  under  the  gam- 
brel.  Now  place  your  crotches,  butt  outward,  at  right 
angles  to  the  sapling,  hook  one  of  them  into  the  sapling, 
just  below  the  gambrel,  and  place  its  butt  so  it  will  not 
slide;  now,  with  the  top  of  the  other  crotch  in  your  hand, 
lift  up  on  the  sapling,  pressing  it  against  the  crotch  at  the 
same  tim^.  When  as  high  as  you  can  get  it,  insert  the 
other  crotch  above  the  gambrel.  If  the  sapling  is  not 
strong  enough  to  hold  the  weight  of  the  deer,  carry  the 
foot  of  this  crotch  to  ward  the  other  and  the  thing  is  done. 
If  the  deer  is  very  large,  or  your  muscular  energy  small, 
you  can  start  with  crotches  three  or  four  feet  long  and 
then  use  longer  ones. 

K5O.  Pinnated  Grouse. — Pinnated  grouse  (prairie 
chicken)  will  be  found  in  the  stubble  fields  in  the  morn- 
ing and  evening,  and  near  sloughs  or  in  cornfields  in  the 
middle  of  the  day. 

1O1.  Knifed  Grouse  Habits.— When  alarmed,  the 
ruffed  grouse  sometimes  squats  close  to  the  ground,  but 
generally  takes  wing  and  alights  on  some  tree  where  it 
remains  closely  concealed  under  the  branches  near  the 
trunk  until  the  sportsman  has  passed.  Their  favorite 
resorts  are  sides  of  hills  overgrown  with  hemlock  and 
cedar,  with  undergrowth  of  laurel.  In  level  countries 
they  frequent  swampy  covers  and  scrub-oak  patches,  and 
lie  better  where  there  is  a  tangled  and  briery  bottom. 
When  flushed  on  a  hillside  they  generally  fly  uphill  and 
can  be  found  directly  over  the  summit. 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  63 

162.  Treeing    Grouse. — When   flushed   on   level 
ground  a  ruffed  grouse  (partridge),  if  flying  low,  will 
alight  on  the  ground.     If  he  gradually  rises  and  suddenly 
darts  upward,  look  for  him  on  the  nearest  evergreen  to 
where  you  saw  him  last.     If  he  at  once  rises  to  the  top  of 
a  tree  and  then  shoots  off  like  an  arrow,  he  will  fly  away 
to  a  distance.   If  he  flies  up  a  steep  hillside  he  will  alight 
on  the  ground,  but  if  from  a  hill  to  a  level  below,  he  will 
be  in  some  tall  hemlock  or  spruce,  standing  straight  and 
immovable  on  a  limb  near  the  body  of  the  tree.     If  he 
flies  from  one  hill  across  a  ravine  to  another  hill  he  will 
alight  on  the  ground.     The  shorter  flight  the  bird  takes 
before  alighting  the  more  ready  he  is  again  to  take  to 
flight.    If  he  trees  immediately  after  being  flushed  he  will 
take  the  most  prominent  limb  in  views  and,  unless  your 
dog  holds  his  attention,  will  be  away  when  he  perceives 
you;  but  should  he  fly  some  distance  and  be  followed  by 
your  spaniel  at  full  cry,  he  will  alight  on  the  limb  of  a 
hemicck  or  spruce  near  the  body  of  the  tree,  hug  his 
feathers  close  and  stand  as  motionless  as  a  knot.     A  side 
shot  is  surer  than  one  in  front  or  back.     Get  a  tree  be- 
tween you  and  him  if  possible,  or  walk  toward  him  as  if 
you  didn't  know  he  was  anywhere  about.     Shoot  the  in- 
stant you  stop  walking  or  you  lose  your  bird. 

163.  Quail  Hunting.— Don't  start  out  too  early  in 
the  morning;  the  birds  are  then  seeking  their  feeding- 
grounds — are  running,  and  will  never  stand  well  to  be 
pointed.     Wait  until  the  sun  has  dried  off  most  of  the 
dew,  and  you  can  hunt  with  decidedly  more  comfort  to 
yourself,  as  well  as  to  your  dog.     The  birds  will  have  fin- 
ished feeding  in  a  ^reat  measure  in  the  meantime,  and 
will  be  quietly  resting  in  some  grassy  covert  in  their 
feeding   grounds,   or    immediately  contiguous   thereto. 
Their  flight  will  not  be  so  long,  and  their  movements 
more  sluggish  after  taking  flight,  which  however  they 
will  do  very  reluctantly. 


64  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

164.  Snipe  Shooting.  —Snipe  lie  best  to  the  dog  on 
warm,   sunny  days,   when  gentle  winds   are   blowing. 
Hunt  them  with  the  wind  at  your  back,  as  they  rise 
against  the  wind  in  a  zigzag  course.     Sometimes  in  the 
spring  they  frequent  swampy  thickets  or  low  willow 
bottoms. 

165.  Loon  Shooting. — To  shoot  loons  aim  ahead  of 
them  at  the  water,  as  they  always  plunge  forward. 

166.  Wooclchucks.  —  To    drive    woodchucks   and 
other  animals  out  of  their  holes  take  a  small  water  turtle, 
bore  a  hole  in  his  shell  just  above  his  tail,  fasten  a  piece 
of  wire  6  inches  Jong  to  the  shell,  and  at  the  end  of  this 
tie  a  piece  of  cotton,   well  saturated    with    kerosene. 
Place  the  turtle  head-on  into  the  hole,  light  the  cotton, 
and  he  will  go  through  and  drive  out  the  game. 

167.  Duck  Call.— A  duck  call  or  squawker  is  made 
thus:  Take  a  tube  of  wood  or  metal  (bamboo  is  best)  about 
|  inch  in  diameter  inside,  and  4  to  8  inches  in  length.  Fit 
a  plug  3  inches  long  to  one  end,  split  it  in  two,  groove 
one  half  to  within  £  inch  of  its  smaller  end,  the  groove 
being  £  inch  wide  and  same  depth.    Hammer  a  thin  piece 
of  steel,  copper  or  brays  2%  inches  long  and  •§•  to  i  inch 
wide,  to  increase  its  elasticity.     This   is    the    tongue, 
and  one  end,  which  should  be  thinner  than  the  other, 
should  have  the  corners  rounded.     The  tongue  is   then 
placed  over  the  grooved  half,  the  round  end  nearly  to  the 
extreme  smaller  end  of  the  plug,  and  the  tongue  com- 
pletely covering  the  groove.     The  other  half  of  the  plug 
should  be  shortened  about  1|  inches  from  its  smaller 
end,  and  then  being  placed  on  the  grooved  half,  thus 
holding  the  tongue  fast,  both  should  be  pushed  firmly  into 
the  tube.     By  blowing  into  the  other  end  of  the  tube  the 
call  is  produced;  the  tone,  degree  of  firmness,  etc.,  being 
regulated  by  moving  the  shortened  end  of  the  plug  in  or  out 
as  a  finer  and  sharper,  or  lower  and  coarser  note  is  re- 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  65 

quired.     Practice  and  experience  are  necessary  to  make 
it  effective. 

168.  Snipe  Whistle.— A  whistle  to  call  snipe  is 
made  thus:  Carefully  dry  the  leg  of  a  curlew,  push  out 
the  marrow  with  a  red-hot  knitting-needle,  plug  up  one 
end,  and  then  practice. 

169.  Turkey  Call. — Take  a  piece  of  dog  wood  or 
maple,  say  6  inches  long  by  li  inches  diameter,  and  with 
a  small-sized  bit  bore  a  hole  through  it  lengthwise,  then 
with  a  tapering  or  hollow  bit  ream  it  out  to  the  size  of  1£ 
inches  tapered  to  size  of  small  bit.  At  the  other  end  insert 
a  piece  made  either  of  wood,  horn  or  cane,  according  to 
fancy,  for  a  mouthpiece.     The  tone  of  the  caller  depends 
largely  on  the  size  of  the  mouthpiece,  and  great  care 
should  be  bestowed  on  this  part  of  the  caller.     When  the 
turkey  note  is  perfected  to  suit  the  individual,  the  shape 
and  finish  can  be  arranged.     A  caller  adapted  to  one 
hunter  cannot  be  used  by  another,  unless  he  is  an  adept 
in  the  business.     Some  hunters  yelp  by  placing  the  caller 
in  the  center  of  their  mouth,  while  others  yelp  from  the 
side.     There  are  some  notes  which  cannot  be  made  from 
the  side  of  the  mouth.     In  hunting,  different  notes  will 
have  to  be  made  according  to  the  game  in  which  you 
are  in  pursuit  of.  For  instance,  if  a  flock  of  turkeys  were 
flushed,  and  it  were  necessary  to  kill  the  old  hen,  you 
would  yelp  like  a  young  turkey;    if  a  young  one  was 
desired,  you  would  imitate  the  hen.     And  in  pursuit  of 
the  gobbler,  you  would  not  yelp  like  either  of  them,  but 
you  would  bring  to  your  aid  patience,  "turkey  sense," 
and  all  the  cunning  possible  to  capture  him. — Lowndes. 

170.  Turkey  Calls. — Make  a  little  box  of  Spanish 
cedar  2$  inches  long,  f  to  -J  deep  and  1  inch  wide.     Cut  a 
piece  of  smooth  slate  that  will  lie  nicely  in  the  bottom  of 
the  box;  have  the  top  smooth  and  even.     Make  the  box 
without  glue,  put  it  together  with  brass  pins.     To  operate 
this,  hold  the  slate  between  the  thumb  and  middle  finger 


66  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

of  the  right  hand  while  the  call  is  held  by  the  thumb  and 

middle  finger  of  the  left The  common  bone  call  is 

made  from  the  hollow  wing  bone  of  the  bird.  The  ends  are 
cut  off,  and  the  call  note  is  made  by  violently  sucking 
through  the  tube. . .  .With  a  narrow  chisel  hollow  out  a 
piece  of  dry  cedar,  2  inches  long,  and  li  inches  wide  and 
\  inch  thick,  so  that  the  sides  are  about  as  thick  as  a 
piece  of  tin;  but  do  not  let  them  be  too  delicate.  It 
should  be  hollowed  out  within  £  inch  of  the  bottom  and 
ends.  Taking  this  simple  caller  between  your  thumb  and 
fingers,  rub  it  crosswise  against  the  butt  of  your  gun  or 
on  the  barrels.  No  rosin  is  required;  the  simple  wood 
can  be  manipulated  with  a  little  practice  to  perfectly 
imitate  the  turkey  call. 

171.  Duck  Shooting-.— Ducks  fly  low,  near  the 
water,  on  a  windy  day.     For  the  first  flight  of  the  fall 
(young  ducks)  use  3£  drams  powder,  1  ounce  No.  6  or  7 
shot;  but  when  the  older  birds  arrive,  4  drams  powder  and 
1-J  ounces  Nos.  4  to  6  shot  is  a  good  load. 

172.  Flight  of  Ducks.— A  wild  duck  flies,  say,  90 
miles  an  hour,  or  one  mile  in  40  seconds,  or  132  feet  a 
second.    Velocity  of  shot  for  short  distance  is,  say,  1,350 
feet  a  second.    If  a  duck  be  50  yards  away,  it  will  require 
one-ninth  of  a  second  to  reach  it  if  still.     But  the  flying 
duck,  at  the  instant  the  central  shot  crosses  his  line  of 
flight,  is  nearly  15  feet  from  the  point  where  he  was 
when  the  shot  left  the  gun.     Hence  the  aim  in  this  case 
should  be  15  feet  ahead. 

173.  Flight  of  Ducks. — Unassisted  by  the  wind 
ducks  fly  from  80  to  100  miles  an  hour.     When  they  fly 
against  the  wind,  they  travel  low  and  close  together. 
Never  shoot  at  ducks  coming  "  dead  on,"  but  wait  until 
they  have  passed  or  are  on  a  line  with  you.     Their  thick 
breast  feathers  will  prevent  shot  entering  their  bodies 
when  coming  "  dead  on." 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  67 

"174.  Ducks'  Power  of  Scent. — It  is  always  best 
to  approach  ducks  and  all  wildfowl  on  the  water  against 
the  wind,  as  their  sense  of  smell  is  singularly  well  devel- 
oped. 

175.  Edible  Species  of  Duck,— -The  mallard,  teal, 
canvasback,  redhead,  widgeon,  black  duck,  pintail,  blue- 
bill  or  broadbill,  redneck,  whistler,  butterball  or  bume- 
head.     Some  of  these  ducks,   like  the  butterball,  are 
edible  in  some  waters  and  unfit  to  eat  in  otheis;  the 
difference  is  owing  to  the  kind  of  food  they  obtain. 

1 76.  Blinds  for  Duck  Shooting'. — Blinds  or  bough 
houses  should  be  built  on  the  ducking  grounds  before  the 
season  commences,  as  ducks  will  avoid  any  new  structure 
after  they  arrive.     They  may  be  made  of  logs,  brush, 
grass,  cornstalks,  etc.,   and  should  completely  conceal 
the  hunter. 

177.  Decoys. — In  both  duck  and  bay  bird  shooting 
the  decoys  are  always  to  be  set  to  the  windward  of  the 
blind.     Set  out  about  fifty,   if  possible,  as  the  greater 
the  number  the  better  the  show  to  attract  the  flocks. 
The  stools  should  be  set  in  a  crescent- shaped  circle,  with 
the  heads  of  the  decoys  pointing  to  the  wind.     There  are 
two  reasons  for  arranging  them  in  this  way:  First,  all  wild 
fowl  alight  to  the  wind,  as  they  need  the  resistance  to  the 
air;    second,  flocks  of  birds   that  intend   to  stool  drop 
down  to  leeward,  where  they  circle  and  then  draw  in 
over  the  decoys.     It  is,  therefore,  not  advisable,  as  a  rule, 
to  shoot  at  a  flock  passing  over  your  head,  as  it  will  turn, 
and  should  it  light  it  will  do  so  at  the  head  of  the  line  of 
stools.     It  will  thus  be  seen  that  as  the  birds  check  their 
flight  to  alight,  they  crowd  and  jostle  together,  affording 
the  most  killing  results  of  a  well  directed  volley  into 
their  ranks. 

178.  Paint    for    Decoys. — Decoys    painted    with 
lampblack  and  oil  will  have  a  more  natural  look  than 
those  painted  with  bright  polish  paints. 


68  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

1 79.  Live  Decoy  Ducks. — Mallard,  black  and  most 
fresh- water  ducks  will  stool  to  live  decoys,  which  should 
be  wounded  ducks  of  a  similar  class  caught  alive.   Fasten 
to  one  leg  of  each  live  decoy  a  close-fitting  leather  boot, 
just  above  the  foot,  and  attach  a  weight  to  the  boot  by  a 
stout  cord  as  an  anchor.     Set  out  the  same  as  wooden 
stools,  or  use  with  wooden  stools,  taking  care  to  anchor 
them  far  enough  apart  so  that  their  anchor  lines  will  not 
become  entangled.     Feed  them  on  corn,  and  carry  them 
in  a  crate  or  basket  until  they  are  accustomed  to  their 
work. 

180.  Diving'  Decoys. — Run  a  long  cord  from  neck 
of  decoy  through  a  block  on  the  anchor  weight  and  thence 
to  blind  or  bough-house.   By  pulling  this  cord  at  intervals 
when  the  decoy  is  anchored  out  it  will  make  the  diving 
motion  noticed  in  ducks  when  feeding. 

181.  "Toling"  Ducks. — Ducks  are  frequently  led 
up  to  a  blind  in  the  marsh  by  the  hunter  waving  a  red 
blanket,  scarf  or  other  cloth  in  an  erratic  manner.    Some- 
times a  red  spaniel  will,  by  running  back  and  forth  on 
shore,  attract  the  curiosity  of  a  flock  of  ducks  resting  on 
the  water  and  lure  them  to  death.     The  fox  is  said  to 
practice  this  art   to  obtain   a  dinner  of  wild  poultry. 
"Toling,"  as  this  is  called,  won't  work  where  ducks  are 
much  hunted  and  wild.     Black  ducks,  gray  ducks,  red- 
heads, bluebills  and  sheldrakes  are  said  to  be  the  only 
ducks  that  will  "  tole." 

182.  Sinkboat. — To  sink  a  boat  for  duck  shooting 
take  old  salt  sacks,  put  in  enough  sand  to  sink  boat  to 
required  depth  ;  when  through  shooting  empty  the  bags 
of  sand. 

183.  Blinds  for  Bay  Bird   Shooting.— A  box 

sunk  in  the  sand  is  the  most  killing  device.  The  box 
should  be  long  enough  to  allow  the  gunner  to  lie  in  it 
comfortably,  and  its  width  should  be  several  inches  in 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  69 

excess  of  the  breadth  of  his  shoulders.  From  10  to  15 
inches  will  be  of  sufficient  depth.  It  should  be  made  of 
f-inch  stuff,  calked  and  pitched  on  the  outside  and  in, 
thus  making  it  thoroughly  water-tight.  At  one  end,  near 
the  top,  an  iron  staple  should  be  clinched,  to  which  a 
^-inch  rope  of  about  7  feet  in  length  should  be  fastened. 
This  will  be  found  useful  in  towing  the  box  behind  a 
skiff,  or  for  dragging  it  over  the  sand.  Other  blinds  are 
easily  constructed  out  of  cedar  boughs,  cut  about  four  feet 
in  length,  stuck  in  the  sand  or  mud.  They  can  also  be 
made,  when  the  wind  is  not  blowing  too  hard,  out  of  long 
reeds  cut  on  the  marsh.  Painted  canvas  screens,  hinged 
so  as  to  fold  up,  have  been  used,  and  one  of  Long  Island's 
famous  gunners  once  used  an  umbrella  painted  green. 
The  fact  is,  it  depends  very  much  upon  the  place,  and, 
moreover,  on  the  conditions  of  wind  and  weather  where 
to  stool.  While  a  vast  number  of  birds  in  their  autumnal 
flight  follow  the  irregularities  of  the  coast,  there  are 
countless  numbers  who  make  t'heir  migration  far  to  sea, 
or  take  short  cuts  over  the  mainland.  Those  passing  to 
sea  only  touch  at  the  projecting  points,  and  are  conse- 
quently tame,  while  those  who  have  tun  the  gauntlet  of 
an  even  shore  or  beach  are  wild,  and  less  likely  to  stool. 
All  these  things  must  be  taken  into  account,  and  the 
wilder  the  birds  the  better  you  must  be  hid.  Sometimes 
it  is  impossible  or  inconvenient  to  construct  a  box  such  as 
described ,  or  find  suitable  stuff  to  build  a  blind ;  then  a 
rubber  blanket  can  be  spread  on  the  marsh,  and  a  few 
sedge  bushes  or  heaps  of  seaweed  placed  around  you. 

184.  Bay  Bird  Stools. — There  are  various  kinds 
of  stools  manufactured,  such  as  both  solid  and  sectional 
wooden  ones,  hollowed  out;  flat  tin  stools,  cut  out  of 
sheet-tin,  and  several  years  ago  a  patented  tin  stool  was 
introduced  on  the  market,  that  met  with  favor  in  the 
eyes  of  those  sportsmen  who  cared  little  for  expense. 
The  latter  are  of  very  ingenious  make,  each  half  of  the 


70  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

decoy  being  concave  on  the  inside  and  convex  on  the  out, 
thus  representing  one-half  of  a  bird;  the  two  parts  are 
hinged  together  on  the  back,  so  that  when  shut  they 
resemble  a  well-formed  snipe,  and  when  open  can  be 
packed  one  in  another,  after  the  manner  of  a  nest  of 
boxes,  and  occupy  but  little  space.  All  these  decoys  are 
painted  to  resemble  the  different  varieties  of  snipe,  and 
are  stuck  up  by  means  of  sticks.  Each  set  of  stools 
should  have  sticks,  or  'legs,"  of  two  lengths — short  ones 
when  used  on  dry  bars  or  very  shoal  water,  and  long  ones 
when  the  water  is  deep.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  stools  set  in  water  are  more  readily  seen,  as  their 
reflection  and  a  watery  background  make  them  loom  up 
and  show  to  advantage.  For  wet  stooling  the  wooden 
ones  are  preferable,  as  the  tin  ones  soon  rust  and  become 
worthless.  The  objection,  however,  to  the  wooden  stools 
is  their  weight  and  bulk.  For  plover  shooting  on  the  up- 
land or  dry  ground,  the  tin  ones  are  by  far  the  best.  It 
may  here  be  said  that  shells,  lumps  of  mud,  etc.,  placed 
on  sticks,  often  can  be  used  when  it  is  impossible  to  obtain 
the  regular  decoys. 

185.  Stooling  Bay  Birds.— Should  you  find  that 
large  birds,  such  as  curlew,  marlin  and  willet,  have  a 
roosting  place  on  one  of  the  bald  marshes,  the  box  blind 
should  be  u?ed,  or  if  thoroughfares  dissect  the  marsh, 
you  can  paddle  your  skiff,  which  should  be  painted  green, 
up  one  of  the  drains  toward  the  spot  where  the  birds 
lower  their  flight,  or  circle  over  before  alighting,  and 
conceal  it  in  the  highest  tuft  of  grass.  Curlew,  and 
especially  the  "jack,"  do  not  stool  well  where  a  blind 
has  been  erected.  They  are  wary  at  best  and  wild  when 
their  favorite  haunts  have  an  unnatural  look.  Willet 
almost  invariably  stool  well,  and  both  the  marlins  are 
unsuspecting.  The  large  and  small  yellowlegs,  dowitch- 
ers,  robin  snipe  and  lesser  birds  are  readily  called  within 
reach,  providing,  of  course,  that  the  proper  place  has 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  71 

been  selected.  The  bars  and  shoals  are  the  favorite 
haunts  of  the  blackbreast  plover,  the  willet  and  dow- 
itchers,  while  the  meadow  pond-holes  are  the  sure  places 
to  attract  the  yellowlegs,  especially  when  the  birds  are 
traveling  with  the  wind,  or  as  bay  men  call  it.  a  "free 
wind." 

186.  Weather  in  Bay  Bird  Shooting.— The  most 
favorable  wind  for  bay  snipe  shooting  in  the  summer  and 
autumn  is  one  that  blows  steadily  from  the  southwest. 
The  birds  that  are  coming  from  the  north,  and  flying 
against  it?  lower  their  flight  and  skirt  the  bars  and  mead- 
ows, and  see  the  stools  more  plainly  and  decoys  much 
better  than  when  traveling  with  the  wind  in  the  clouds. 
A  wet  summer  is  also  found  to  produce  the  best  shooting, 
as  the  meadows  afford  plenty  of  feed,  and  should  the 
birds  arrive  early  in  the  season,  they  stop  and  make  the 
large  marshes  their  home,  flying  north  in  the  morning 
and  returning  south  toward   evening.     This  flight  bay- 
men  call  "a  trade." 

187.  Killing  a  Wounded  Bird.— Many  gunners 
bite  its  neck  with  the  teeth.    This  will  not  break  the  skin. 
Others  squeeze  the  bird  on  both  sides  close  under  the 
wings  and  at  the  same  time  press  the  forefinger  over  the 
wishbone.     This  stops  heart  and  lung  action  and  causes 
almost  instant  death,  but  it  is  impracticable  to  kill  large 
birds  in  this  way. 

188.  Preserving1  Dead  Birds.— Draw  and  stuff 
with  green  grass;  cover  bottom  of  box  with  a  layer  of 
coffee  grounds,  then  pack  a  layer  of  birds;  then  another 
layer  of  grounds,  then  birds,  and  so  on  until  all  are 
packed.     The  grounds  should  be  perfectly  dry. 

189.  Preserving  Killed  Game.— Take  a  supply  of 
paper  sacks  (such  as  grocers  use),  just  large  enough  to 
put  a  chicken  into  and  tie  snugly.     Draw  the  birds  and 
hang  by  the  head  until  they  have  thoroughly  dripped 


72  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

and  the  natural  heat  has  left  them.  Stuff  fresh  leaves  or 
grass  inside;  put  into  the  sacks  head  first,  and  tie  sack 
tight  enough  to  exclude  the  air.  Put  them  in  a  cool, 
shady  place  until  ready  to  ship.  Birds  packed  in  this 
way  have  kept  over  fifty  hours,  and  when  used  were  sweet 
and  fresh,  and  this  during  the  hottest  weather  of  August. 
Never  put  game  on  ice  unless  you  can  keep  it  there  until 
ready  to  use,  for  it  spoils  in  an  almost  incredible  short 
time  after  being  taken  off. 

190.  Weight  of  Quail  and  Woodcock.— The 

average  weight  of  quail  is  about  6£  ounces;  of  woodcock 
a  trifle  less.  Quail  run  from  4  to  7i  ounces;  woodcock 
seldom  weigh  less  than  5,  and  sometimes  8i  ounces,  but 
their  mean  weight  is  a  little  less  than  that  of  quail. 

191.  Game  by  Express.— When  game  is  sent  by 
express  the  number  of  heads  should  be  noted  in  the 
receipt.     A  "bunch"  of  quail  may  fall  short. 

192.  Fowlers'  Terms.— Fowlers  speak  of  a  sege  of 
herons  or  bitterns;  a  herd  of  swans,  cranes  or  curlews;  a 
deppingof  sheldrakes;  a  spring  of  teals;  a  covert  of  coots; 
a  gaggle  of  geese;  a  badelynge  of  ducks;  a  sord  or  sute  of 
mallards;  a  muster  of  peacocks;  a  bevy  of  quails;  a  con- 
gregation of  plovers;  a  walk  of  snipes;  a  fall  of  wocd- 
cocks;  a  brood  of  hens;  a  building  of  rooks;  a  rummura- 
tion  of  starlings;  an  exaltation  of  larks;  a  flight  of  swal- 
lows; a  host  of  sparrows;  a  watch  of  nightingales;    a 
charm  of  goldfinches. 

193.  Trapping  Season.— All  furs  are  best  in  win- 
ter; but  trapping  may  be  carried  on  to  advantage  from 
Oct.  1  to  April  15.     In  the  hot  months  furs  are  worthless. 

194.  Deadfalls.— A  deadfall  consists  of  two  large 
poles  (or  logs  when  set  for  bears  or  other  large  animals) 
placed  one  over  the  other  and  kept  in  place  by  four 
stakes,  two  on  each  side.     The  upper  pole  is  raised  at 
one  end  high  enough  above  the   lower  to  admit   the 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  73 

entrance  of  the  animal,  and  is  kept  up  in  that  position  by 
the  familiar  contrivance  of  the  stick  and  spindle,  or 
''figure  four."  A  tight  pen  is  made  with  sticks,  brush, 
etc.,  on  one  side  of  this  structure,  at  right  angles  to  it, 
and  the  spindle  projects  obliquely  into  this  pen,  so  that 
the  bait  attached  to  it  is  about  8  inches  beyond  the  side  of 
the  poles.  The  animal,  to  reach  the  bait,  has  to  place  his 
body  between  the  poles  and  at  right  angles  to  them,  and 
on  pulling  the  spindle,  springs  the  **  figure  four,"  and  is 
crushed.  — Newhouse. 

195.  Baiting-  Steel  Traps.— Never  put  a  bait  upon 
the  pan  of  a  steel  trap.  Place  it  so  that  when  the  animal 
smells  the  bait  its  foot  will  be  upon  the  pan.  Therefore, 
either  hang  the  bait  from  a  stick  above  the  trap  or  set  it 
in  an  inclosure  so  arranged  that  the  animal  will  have  to 
step  over  the  trap  to  reach  it. 

19O.  Clean  Your  Traps.— Traps  should  be  smoked 
or  cleaned  occasionally  after  game  has  been  taken  in 
them. 

197.  Trap  for  Mink, — A  mink  trap  is  made  by 
boring  a  2-inch  or  2^-inch  hole  in  a  log,  4  or  5  inches 
deep,  and  into  the  edges  of  this  hole  drive  three  sharp- 
ened nails,  so  that  they  will  project  half  an  inch  or  so 
inside.  The  bait  being  at  the  bottom,  the  mink  pushes 
his  head  in  to  get  it,  but  on  attempting  to  withdraw,  it  is 
caught  by  the  nails.  Muskrat  is  good  bait  for  them,  and 
a  highly  praised  bait  is  made  by  cutting  an  eel  into  small 
bits,  which  are  placed  in  a  bottle  and  hung  in  the  sun, 
and  after  a  time  become  an  oily  and  very  odorous  mass. 
A  few  drops  of  this  are  used.  The  above  simple  mink 
trap  may  be  made  by  using  any  block  of  wood,  or  a  stump 
of  a  tree,  large  or  small,  and  the  same  plan  may  be  made 
use  of  to  trap  skunks,  or,  by  using  a  small  hole  and  some 
straightened  fish  hooks,  it  will  serve  to  catch  rats  or 
weasels,  enemies  of  the  rural  poultry  yard,  which  may 
be  thinned  out  by  the  use  of  this  trap. 


74  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

198.  Trap  for  Mink. — For  the  mink,  in  regard  to 
scent,  I  think  that  prepared  from  trout  superior  to  any 
other.     In  summer,  when  I  have  a  mess  of  trout  to  dress, 
I  take  some  heads,  etc.,  and  put  them  into  a  strong  glass 
bottle  in  the  sun  and  they  will  turn  to  an  oil  that  gives  a 
very  good  scent — one  that  will  attract  the  mink  better 
than  any  other  I  have  ever  used,  and  by  using  a  small 
chub  or  sucker  and  a  few  drops  of  the  scent  you  have  a 
killing  bait.     As  steel  traps  are  rather  heavy  to  carry 
and  it  takes  some  time  to  set  them  properly,  I  dispense 
with  them  as  much  as  possible,  especially  if  the  country 
I  am  trapping  in  is  heavily  timbered.     In  the  place  of 
them  I  take  a  2  or  2^-inch  auger  with  a  short  shaft,  and 
having  at  the  end  of  the  handle  a  small  hammer  with  a 
claw,   and  also  a  supply  of  small  wrought   nails  with 
large  heads  and  the  points  well  sharpened  by  a  file. 
Now,  in  ten  minutes  I  can  make,  set  and  bait  a  trap  for 
minks  that  has  no  equal.     I  find  some  log  near  a  stream 
or  the  root  of  a  tree,  bore  a  hole  about  4  inches  deep  in 
the  side  and  throw  a  little  mud  or  sand  in  the  bottom. 
If  the  hole  is  bored  in  the  top  of  the  log,  I  have  to  place 
a  piece  of  bark  in  a  position  to  keep  the  rain  from  filling 
the  hole  with  water.     Then  I  take  three  sharp  nails  and 
drive  them  in  so  they  will  project  inward  and  down- 
ward about  -J  inch,  just  deep  enough  to  make  them 
secure.     Then  I  take  a  piece  of  fish,  drop  a  little  of  the 
scent  on  it  and  place  it  at  the  bottom  of  the  hole.     The 
trap  is  thus  complete  and  ready  baited.     The  mink  can 
shove  his  head  past  the  points  of  the  nails  to  get  at  the 
bait,  but  cannot  get  back.      In  going  my  rounds  all  I 
need    to    do  is  to  draw  the  nails,   remove    the  mink, 
replace  the  nails  and  my  trap  is  reset. — G.  W. 

199.  Trap  for  Foxes.— Take  a  common  field  mouse's 
skin  and  stuff  it.     Set  your  trap  near  a  stack  of  grain,  or 
at  any  place  where  a  fox  is  likely  to  pass.     Cover  the  trap 
lightly  and  sprinkle  some  of  the  mouse  chaff  around  it. 


GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING.  75 

Place  the  stuffed  mouse  on  the  pan  of  the  trap  so  that  it 
can  be  plainly  seen.  As  the  fox  is  attracted  by  the  scent 
he  will  see  the  mouse  and  will  not  hesitate  an  instant, 
but  will  pounce  both  forefeet  on  the  mouse  without  the 
least  suspicion  of  a  trap.  It  requires  a  strong  trap  to  hold 
him  this  way. 

2OO.  Trap  for  Foxes. — Select  some  warm  springy 
place  on  a  sidehill,  or  a  boggy  place  that  does  not  freeze 
up,  and  at  the  point  where  it  is  the  wettest  get  some 
small  pieces  of  turf  about  the  ^ize  of  the  hand  to  serve  as 
"stops,"  and  beginning  at  one  side  of  the  wet  place  at 
regular  intervals  of  about  12  inches  fix  them  so  that  they 
will  be  strong  and  dry  until  you  reach  the  springy  or  we  t 
place  where  you  wish  to  set  the  trap.  Then  skip  one 
piece,  and  continue  the  line  of  steps  until  you  get  to  dry 
ground  on  the  other  side.  A  narrow  place  that  will  re- 
quire only  three  or  four  steps  on  each  side  of  the  trap  is 
sufficient.  Then  cut  a  strong  thin  piece  of  turf  of  the 
same  size  and  appearance  as  the  others  to  place  over  the 
pan  of  the  trap.  For  scent  go  to  some  chicken  house  and 
get  some  very  fine  dry  manure  (it  must  be  very  fine  and 
dry),  and  put  it  in  a  coarse  cloth  or  bag.  Then  when  the 
ground  is  dry  drag  the  bag  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  each 
way  from  the  springy  hole,  where  you  have  placed  the 
turf  steps.  If  the  bag  is  coarse  and  the  ground  dry,  you 
leave  enough  scent  for  every  purpose,  as  the  rains  will  not 
wash  it  away,  but  improve  it.  Then  go  to  a  granary  or 
some  place  where  mice  abound,  and  get  some  of  the  mice 
chaff  usually  found  around  such  places,  which  generally 
smells  very  strong  of  mice.  Then  set  the  trap  in  the 
water,  and  placing  the  last  piece  of  turf  over  the  pan  the 
line  of  steps  is  complete.  Then  where  you  have  stood 
sprinkle  a  little  chaff  and  pass  on,  not  retracing  the  steps; 
and  as  sure  as  a  fox  strikes  the  trail  he  will  follow  it  up, 
and  when  he  comes  to  the  spring  (a  fox  is  very  careful 
about  stepping  in  the  water)  will  try  the  steps,  and  as  the 


76  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

first  and  second  are  all  right,  and  hold  him,  and  as  they 
are  placed  about  the  right  distance  apart  for  his  gait,  he 
is  pretty  sure  to  step  his  whole  weight  on  the  one  con- 
cealing the  trap. 

201.  Trap  for  Otter.— The  habitation  of  the  otter 
is  made  in  the  banks  of  the  river  which  it  frequents,  or 
sometimes  in  a  hollow  log  or  crevice  beneath  rocks.     A 
short  search  will  reveal  the  place  where  they  crawl  from 
the  water  on  to  the  bank,  and  at  this  spot,  which  will 
generally  be  shallow,  a  steel  trap  should  be  set,  on  the 
bed  of  the  river,  about  four  inches  under  water.     The  trap 
should  be  secured  by   a  stout  chain,  the  latter  being 
ringed  to  a  sliding  pole,  which  will  lead  the  animal  when 
caught  icto  deep  water.     If  deep  water  is  not  near  at 
hand,  the  spring  pole  may  be  used,  the  object  of  either 
being  to  prevent  the  animal  from  gnawing  off  its  leg  and 
thus  making  its  escape.     The  trap  may  also  be  placed  at 
the  top  of  the  slide,  two  or  three  feet  back  of  the  slope,  a 
place  being  hollowed  out  to  receive  it  and  the  whole 
covered  with  snow.     To  make  success  more  certain  a  log 
may  be  laid  on  each  side  of  the  trap,  thus  forming  an 
avenue  in  which  the  animal  will  be  sure  to  run  before 
throwing  itself  on  the  slope.     Care  should  be  taken  to 
handle  nothing  with  the  bare  hands,  as  the  otter  is  very 
keen  scented  and  shy.     Anoint  the  trap  with  a  few  drops 
of  fish  oil  or  otter  musk.     If  none  of  these  are  handy, 
ordinary  musk  will  answer  very  well.     The  trap  may  also 
be  set  and  weighted  with  a  heavy  stone  and  chain,  as 
described  for  trapping  the  beaver.     Another  method  still 
is  to  find  some  log  in  the  stream  having  one  end  project- 
ing above  water.     Sprinkle  some  musk  on  this  projecting 
end  and  set  the  trap  on  the  log  in  three  or  four  inches  of 
water,  securing  it  firmly  by  a  chain,  also  beneath  the 
water. — Gibson. 

202.  Trapping  Otter  in  Winter.— In  the  winter 
when  the  ponds  and  rivers  are  frozen  over  the  otters 


GAME.  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 


77 


make  holes  through  the  ice  at  which  they  come  up  to  de- 
vour their  prey.  Where  the  water  is  a  foot  deep  beneath 
any  of  these  holes  the  trap  may  be  set  in  the  bottom,  the 
chain  being  secured  to  a  heavy  stone.  When  the  otter 
endeavors  to  emerge  from  the  hole  he  will  press  his  foot 
on  the  trap  and  will  thus  be  caught.  If  the  water  is 
deep  beneath  the  hole  the  trap  may  be  baited  with  a 
small  fish  attached  to  the  pan,  and  then  carefully  lowered 
with  its  chain  and  stone  to  the  bottom.  For  this  purpose 
the  Newhouse,  No.  3,  is  best  adapted,  as  the  otter  is  in 
this  case  caught  by  the  head.  The  beaten  track  of  the 
animal  may  often  be  discovered  in  the  snow  in  the  winter 
time,  and  a  trap  carefully  sunk  in  such  a  furrow  and 
covered  so  as  to  resemble  its  surroundings,  will  be  likely 
to  secure  the  first  otter  that  endeavors  to  pass  over  it, — 
Gibson. 

2O3.  Trap  for  Rats. — The  barrel  trap  device  pos- 
sesses great  advantages  in  its  capabilities  for  securing  an 


almost  unlimited  number  of  the  vermin  in  quick  suc- 
cession. It  also  takes  care  of  itself,  requiring  no  re-bait- 
ing or  setting  after  once  put  in  working  order,  and  is  sure 


78  GAME,  HUNTING  AND  TRAPPING. 

death  to  its  prisoners.  A  water-tight  barrel  is  the  first 
thing  required.  Into  this  pour  water  to  the  depth  of  a 
foot.  Next  dampen  a  piece  of  very  thick  paper  and 
stretch  it  over  the  top  of  the  barrel  (like  a  drum-head), 
tying  it  securely  below  the  upper  hoops.  When  the 
paper  dries  it  will  become  thoroughly  dry  and  tightened. 
Its  surface  should  then  be  strewn  with  bits  of  cheese, 
etc.,  and  the  barrel  so  placed  that  the  rats  may  jump 
upon  it  from  neighboring  surface.  As  soon  as  the  bait  is 
gone  a  fresh  supply  should  be  spread  on  the  paper,  and 
the  same  operation  repeated  for  several  days,  until  the 
rats  get  accustomed  to  visit  the  place  for  their  regular 
rations,  fearlessly  and  without  suspicion.  This  is  half 
the  battle,  and  the  capture  of  the  greedy  victims  of  mis- 
placed confidence  is  now  an  easy  matter.  The  bait 
should  again  be  spread  as  before,  and  a  few  pieces  of 
cheese  should  be  attached  to  the  paper  with  gum.  It  is 
a  good  plan  to  smear  part  of  the  paper  with  gum  Arabic, 
sprinkling  the  bait  upon  it.  When  dry  cut  a  cross  in  the 
middle  of  the  paper,  as  seen  in  the  illustration,  and  leave 
the  barrel  to  take  care  of  itself  and  rats.  The  first  one 
comes  along,  spies  the  tempting  morsels,  and  with  his  ac- 
customed confidence  jumps  upon  the  paper.  He  suddenly 
finds  himself  in  the  water  at  the  bottom  of  the  barrel, 
and  the  paper  is  closed  and  ready  for  the  next  comer. 
There  is  not  long  to  wait.  A  second  victim  soon  tumbles 
in  to  keep  company  with  the  first.  A  third  and  fourth 
soon  follows,  and  a  dozen  or  more  are  sometimes  thus 
entrapped  in  a  very  short  space  of  time. — Gibson. 

2O4.  To  Cook  Small  Birds.-  An  excellent  way  to 
cook  a  small  bird,  such  as  a  peep,  is  to  dress,  remove 
head  and  legs,  and  bake  it  in  a  hollowed  out  potato, 


CHAPTER  III. 
FISH   AND    FISHING. 


205.  Haunts  of  Fish. — Remember  that  fish  dwell 
chiefly  in  those  parts  of  the  stream  where  the  natural 
current  carries  the  surface  food,  and  that  the  largest  fish 
select  and  occupy  the  best  places.     In  lakes  and  ponds 
fish  prefer  spots  where  the  coldest  water  is  supplied  by 
bottom  springs  or  brooks  emptying  into  the  larger  body 
of  water. 

206.  Fish  on  Clear  Days. — Fish  are  most  wary 
and  difficult  to  capture  on  still  days  when  the  sky  is  cloud- 
less. 

20 7.  Fish  on  Cold  I>ays.— Fish  are  sluggish  on 
cold,  raw,  blustery  days,  which  are  usually  accompanied 
by  north  or  east  winds. 

208.  Fish  after  a  Storm  or  Flood.— Fish  won't 
bite  after  a  storm  or  a  flood,  because  these  events  wash 
plenty  of  food  into  the  water  and  they  are  well  supplied. 

209.  Fish  in  Spring'. — Fish  cannot  be  caught  in 
spring  until  the  snow  water  is  all  out  of  the  stream. 

210.  The  Sun's  Position  in  Fishing In  fly- 
fishing, fish  up  or  down  stream  so  that  the  sun  shall  be 
in  front  of  you.    In  bait-fishing,  fish  down  stream. 


80  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

211.  The  Moon  in  Fishing.—  Fish  are  said  to  bite 
best  between  the  new  moon  and  the  first   quarter  or 
between  the  last  quarter  and  the  "change." 

212.  Playing1  a  Fish.— Handle  your  fish  with  care. 
Give  line  when  you  must  and  bring  him  to  gaff  when  you 
can. 

213.  Salmon.— For  salmon  use  the  best  of  tackle, 
rod  of  split  bamboo  if  possible,  click  reel  and  100  to  120 
yards  of  braided  waterproof  silk  line.     Leaders  should  be 
9ft.  long,  of  heaviest  gut.     Cast  the  fly  as  straight  and 
light  as  possible,  allow  it  to  sink  a  few  inches,  then  draw 
a  foot  or  two  along  the  surface,  and  repeat  until  another 
cast  is  made. 

214.  Fly-Fishing  for  Black  Bass.— It  is  useless 
to  cast  a  fly  for  black  bass  on  perfectly  smooth  water. 
Cast  the  flies  as  lightly  as  possible,  causing  them  to  settle 
as  quietly  as  thistle-down.     After  casting,  the  flies  should 
be  skipped  along  the  surface  in  slightly  curving  lines,  or 
by  zigzag  movements,  occasionally  allowing  them  to  be- 
come submerged  for  several  inches  near  likely-looking 
spots.     If  the  current  is  swift,  allow  the  flies  to  float 
naturally  with  it,  at  times,  ^hen  they  can  be  skittered 
back  again,  or  withdrawn  for  a  new  cast.     Two  or  three 
times  are  enough  to  cast  over  any  one  spot,  when  a  rise 
is  not  induced.     When  bass  are  biting  eagerly  or  quickly, 
whipping  the  stream  is  to  be  practiced;  that  is,  the  casts 
are  to  be  often  and  rapidly  repeated,  first  to  one  side, 
then  the  other,  allowing  the  flies  to  settle  but  a  moment. 
In  casting  and  manipulating  the  flies,  the  lino  must  be 
ever  taut;  for  often  a  bass  will  thus  hook  himself,  which 
he  never  does  with  a  slack  line.     It  is  best  to  fish  down 
stream,  even  with  the  wind  against  one.     Cast  just  below 
ripples  and  rapids,  over  eddies  and  pools,  along  the  edges  * 
of  weed  patches,  under  projecting  banks  and  shelving 
rocks,  near  submerged  trees  or  driftwood,  off  gravelly 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  81 

shoals,  isolated  rocks  and  long  points  or  spurs  of  land:  it 
is  useless  to  fish  long,  deep,  still  reaches  of  water.  The 
most  favorable  time  for  fly-fishing  for  black  bass  is  dur- 
ing the  last  hours  of  the  day,  from  sundown  until  dark, 
and  also  on  bright  moonlight  evenings.  On  streams,  an 
hour  or  two  following  sunrise,  in  warm  weather,  is  .quite 
favorable.  On  dark,  cloudy  and  cold  days  the  middle 
hours  are  the  best.  Bright  sunny  day?,  especially  in  hot 
weather,  are  not  favorable  to  fly-fishing,  except  in  quite 
cool,  shady  and  breezy  situations.  In  short,  the  best 
conditions  are  a  mellow  or  dusky  light,  a  good  breeze 
and  translucent  water;  while  the  most  unfavorable  are  a 
bright  sun,  a  still  atmosphere,  and  a  smooth  and  glassy 
surface,  with  the  water  either  very  fine  or  very  turbid.  — 
Henshall. 

215.  "Striking"  the  Black  Bass.— The  angler 
should  strike  by  sight  or  by  touch;  that  is,  he  should 
strike  the  moment  he  sees  the  rise;  for  the  bass  has  either 
got  the  fly  in  his  mouth,  has  missed  it,  or  has  already 
ejected  it,  when  the  rise  is  seen;  it  very  seldom  happens 
that  the  rise  is  seen  before  the  fly  is  reached  by  the  fish. 
The  angler  must  ak'o  strike  at  the  moment  he  feels  the 
slightest  touch  or  tug  from  the  fish,  for  often  the  bass 
takes  the  fly  without  any  break  at  the  surface,  especially 
if  the  flies  are  beneath  the  surface.  Striking  is  simply  a 
twist  of  the  wrist,  or  half  turn  of  the  rod,  either  upward 
or  downward  (upward  with  stiffish  rods,  and  downward 
with  very  willowy  ones),  which  is  sufficient  to  set  the 
hook  if  the  rod  and  line  maintain  a  proper  state  of  ten- 
sion; but  when  the  careless  angler  has  a  slack  line,  and, 
consequently,  a  lifeless  rod,  he  must  necessarily  strike  by 
a  long  upward  or  side  sweep  of  the  rod,  called  "  yank- 
ing;" and  should  he  succeed  in  hooking  the  fish,  the 
chances  are  that  it  will  shake  the  hook  out  again  before 
the  slack  can  be  reeled.  The  rod  must  always  be  held 
upward,  so  that  it  constantly  maintains  a  curve  with  the- 


82  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

line;  and  never  under  any  circumstances  must  the  rod 
point  in  the  direction  of  the  fl:es  after  they  reach  the 
water,  for  this  allows  the  direct  strain  of  the  fish  to  come 
upon  the  line  or  leader. — Henshall. 

216.  "Playing  "  the  Black  Bass  —When  a  bass 
is  hooked  he  must  be  killed  on  the  rod;  the  rod  must 
stand  the  brunt  of  the  contest;  the  more  pliable  and 
.  springy  the  rod,  the  less  likelihood  of  its  breaking, 
for  a  stiff  red  is  more  pliable  than  a  flexible 
one.  Give  the  bass  more  line  only  when  he  takes  it; 
make  him  fight  for  every  inch,  and  take  it  back  when 
you  can;  hold  him  by  the  spring  of  the  rod,  and  do  not 
hesitate  to  turn  the  butt  toward  him  to  keep  him  away 
from  weeds,  rocks,  snags  or  other  dangerous  places;  this 
will  bring  him  up  with  a  round  turn,  and  is  called 
/'giving  the  butt."  Don't  be  in  a  hurry  to  land  him;  the 
longer  he  resists  the  better  for  your  sport ;  take  your 
time,  and  only  land  him  when  he  is  completely  ex- 
hausted; for  if  he  is  well  hooked,  and  the  proper  tension 
of  the  rod  and  line  maintained,  he  cannot  get  away;  on 
the  other  hand,  if  he  is  tenderly  hooked,  the  more  gin- 
gerly .he  is  handled  the  better.  Therefore,  never  be  in 
a  hurry,  and  never  attempt  to  force  matters;  always 
keep  a  bent  rod  and  taut  line;  if  the  bass  breaks  water, 
the  best  plan  is  to  lower  the  tip,  so  as  to  slack  the  line, 
and  immediately  raise  the  rod  and  tighten  the  line  when 
he  strikes  the  water  again,  for  if  he  falls  on  the  tight- 
ened line  he  is  most  sure  to  escape;  this  is  one  of  his 
most  wily  tricks. — Henshall. 

.217.  Black  Bass  Fishing  with  Minnow.— Use 

minnow  4  or  5  inches  long.  Insert  the  hook  in  its  upper 
lip  and  pull  it  out  through  the  nostril  or  eye.  Use  a 
small  braided  silk  line  about  50  yards  long  and  tie  a 
small  swivel  and  the  smallest  sinker  1-J-  feet  from  the 
hook.  Reel  up  the  line  as  far  as  possible,  grasp  the  rod 
with  the  right  hand  just  below  the  reel,  put  the  thumb 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  83 

on  the  line  to  regulate  it,  make  the  cast  and  stop  the  line 
as  soon  as  the  minnow  strikes  the  water.  Small  minnows 
may  be  hooked  through  the  back  near  the  dorsal  fin. 
Don't  strike  until  the  bass  has  had  the  bait  6  or  8  seconds. 
Then  pull  gently,  and  if  he  jerks,  let  him  go  again;  if 
you  feel  his  weight  firm  and  solid,  give  a  strong  pull. 
Keep  the  minnow  about  a  foot  from  the  bottom  in  still 
waters,  sfnd  use  a  float  if  you  wish.  In  rapid  waters 
keep  the  minnow  near  the  surface. 

218.  Black  Bass  Flies.— 1.  Flies  should  be  small 
rather  than  large,     2.  On  bright  days  and  with  clear  or 
low  water  flies  should  be  quite  small  and  of  subdued 
dark  or  neutral   tints.     3.  For  cloudy   days  and  high, 
turbid  or  rough  water  largo  and  brighter  flies  should  be 
used.    4.  For  very  dark  days  or  from  sunset  until  dark 
or  on  moonlight  evenings  use  gray  or  whitish  flies  of 
good  size. — Hensliall. 

219.  Black   Bass    Trolling.  —  Use   the   smallest 
spoon  you  can  buy,  and  tie  two  or  three  gaudy  flies 
above  it.     Row  about  two  miles  an  hour,  use  plenty  of 
line  and  take  a  course  along  the  edge  of  the  sub-surface 
water  plants,  or  where  the  bottom  of  the  river  or  lake 
suddenly  deepens. 

220.  Bass  in  Still  Water. — Use  but  one  fly  when 
fishing  for  bass  in  still  water. 

221.  Black  Bass  in  Pairs.— Large  black  bass  go 
in  pairs  all  summer.     If  you  catch  one,  look  out  for  his 
mate. 

222.  Lake  Troiit  Fishing1.— Anchor  a  buoy  in 
deep  water,  and  cut  up  small  fish  in  pieces  the  size  of  a 
butternut.     Scatter  the  pieces  around  the  buoy  for  some 
days,  then  tie  your  boat's  painter  to  the  buoy,  bait  your 
hook  with  pieces  of  fish  such  as  you  have  been  feeding 
the  trout  with,  fish  near  the  bottom  and  give  your  line 
short  jerks.     Don't  bait  the  buoy  the  day  you  fish, 


84  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

223.  Lake  Trout  Trolling'.— Use  silver  or  brass 
spoon  hooks  and  a  sinker  weighing  fib.  to  lib.,  so  that 
the  spoon  will  run  near  the  bottom.     Line  should  be  300 
to  500  feet  long.     Draw  and  loosen  the  line  occasionally 
whila  rowing  the  boat,  and  move  quite  slowly.     Troll  in 
very  deep  water  in  summer,  shallower. water  in  spring 
and  fall. 

224.  Perch  on  the  Fly. — Yellow  perch,  will  take 
trout  hackles  of  gay  colors.     Sink  the  stretcher  fly  2  feet 
below  the  surface  of  the  water  by  a  buckshot  sinker;  then 
draw  gradually  toward  you  by  several  pulls.     Use  three 
flies  and  you  will  sometimes  catch  three  perch  at  one 
cast. 

225.  Shad  Flies. — Where  shad  can  be  caught  on  a 
fly,  modest  brown  or  dun-colored  lures  are  most  effective. 

226.  Rock  Bass  Fishing1. — In  May  and  June  rock 
bass  (not  t;rock  fish")  are  found  along  the  river's  edge.  In 
July  and  August  they  are  caught  in  the  middle  of  the 
stream.    Use  worm  or  grub  bait  or  minnows. 

227.  Carp    Fishing'.— Feed    the    fish    with    boiled 
potatoes,  boiled  oats  or  oatmeal  in  the  same  spot  for 
several  days,  then  stop  feeding  for  a  day  or  two,  after 
which  fish  for  them  with  a  small  trout  hook  baited  with 
angle-worms,  or  with  the  stuff  you  feed  them  wrapped 
in  fine  lace.     Use  a  float,  and  sink  the  bait  near  the 
bottom. 

228.  Carp  Fishing1. — Never  strike  while  a  carp  only 
nibbles.     Wait  till  he  drags  the  float  steadily  under,  and 
appears  to  be  going  away  with  it;  when,  seeing  all  clear 
and  in  order  about  the  line  and  reel  for  a  rush,  you  may 
hit  him  smartly,  and  if  he  is  a  big  one  "look  out  for 
squalls;"  as  his  mouth  is  very  tough  and  leathery,  you 
may  play  him  firmly.     Get  him  away  as  soon  as  possible 
from  your  pitch,  so  as  not  to  frighten  the  rest,  and  land 
him  as  far  from  the  pitch  as  you  can.     Then  come  back 
to  the  pitch,  quietly  throw  in  a  handful  or  two  of  ground- 


PISH  AND  FISHING.  85 

bait,  and  follow  up  with  the  hook  as  before,  and  prob- 
ably in  ten  minutes  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  if  the  fish  are 
well  on,  you  may  see  your  rush-float  "niggle-niggling" 
again.  The  best  ground-bait,  of  course,  for  this  work  is 
boiled  potato. — Francis  Francis. 

229.  Carp  Fishing'. — When  I  fish  for  carp  I  have  a 
fifty-foot  line  done  up  on  a  reel  with  six  or  seven  small 
hooks  on  the  line,  and  without  any  pole.     1  bait  the 
hooks  with  stale  light  bread,  which  floats  on  the  surface 
of  the  water,  and  the  carp  come  to  the  top  to  suck  it 
down.     As  soon  as  they  feel  the  hook  they  start  to  run 
and  I  reel  up  the  line  and  play  with  them  until  I  worry 
them  out  and  land  them  without  further  trouble.     After 
catching  one  in  this  way  they  become  very  wild  and 
timid,  and  it  is  a  long  time  before  I  can  get  them  to  show 
themselves  again.     I  caught  only  one  with  an  angle- 
worm. — Oscar  Reid. 

230.  Chumming. — "Chumming"    is    a  favorite 
method  of  fishing  for  striped  bass  and  bluefish.     The  bait 
used  is  menhaden,   called   sometimes   niossbunkers    or 
bony  fish.     The  line  should  be  attached  to  a  knobbed  or 
needled-eyed  O'Shaughnessy  hook  and  a  turn  taken  over 
the  upper  end  of  the  bait,  which  is  cast  to  a  distance  of 
75  or  100  feet  into  the  sea,  then  slowly  reeled  up  again 
for  another  cast,     The  upper  part  o  f  the  menhaden,  which 
is  useless  for  bait,  should  be  chopped  very  fine  and  thrown 
out  to  attract  the  fish.     This  is  called  ' 'chumming."    A 
thumb  stall  should  be  used  to  prevent  injury  when  check- 
ing the  fish,  which  is  done  by  pressing  the  thumb  on  the 
reel  with  more  or  less  force.     When  the  fish  is  killed 
care  should  be  taken  to  yield  to  the  motion  of  the  surf 
when  reeling  in,  or  the  line  will  break.     Use  a  good  long 
handled  gaff  for  large  fish. 

231.  Fish  Oil  in.  Chumming. — To  aid  in  chum- 
ming for  bluefish  get  a  quart  of   fish  oil  and  keep  it 
dripping  from  the  boat. 


86 


FISH  AND  FISHING. 


232.  Pickerel    Trolling'.—  Trolling    for    pickerel 
(and  pike)  should  be  done  as  near  the  weeds  and  eel 
grass  as  possible  with  100  to  125  feet  of  line,  rowing  at  a 
speed  sufficient  to  keep  the    spoon    near  the    surface. 
Early  morning  is  the   best  time.     When  you  strike  a 
pickerel  or  pike  you  may  often  strike  a  second  and  third 
by  trolling  over  the  same  spot  several  times. 

233.  Pickerel  Fishing1  Through  the  Ice.  —  One 

man  often  cuts  from  ten  to  fifty  holes  in  the  ice  at  some 
distance  apart,  often  in  different  portions  of  the  lake  or 
pond,  and  baits  his  lines,  usually  with  a  live  minnow. 
and  sets  his  tip-ups  to  notify  him  when  his  presence  is 
needed  at  some  particular  hole.  The  primitive  tip-up  is 


FIG.  1. 
shown  in  Fig.  1.     Another  tip-up  (Fig.  2)  is  cut  from  the 


FIG.  2. 


top  of  a  sapling,  which  stands  erect  on  its  two  short  legs 


FIG.  3. 
when  a  fish  bites,     Another  device  is  seen  in  Fig.  3,  the 


FISH  AND  FISHING. 


87 


broad  part  of  the  piece  of  board  being  painted,  red.  And 
still  another  simple  contrivance  is  shown  in  Fig.  4,  a  red 
flag  being  sometimes  attached  to  the  stick.  The  only 
objection  to  these  simple  tip  ups  is  that  they  do  not  always 
indicate  when  a  fish  has  taken  the  bait  but  has  not  been 


hooked,  unless  the  fisherman  happens  to  be  looking  at  the 
time.     Fig.  5,  however,  causes  a  flag  to  be  hoisted  when 


FIG.  5. 
the  bait  has  been  disturbed  ever  so  little,  whether  the  fish 


88  FISH  AND  PISHING. 

is  hooked  or  not,  a  weight  (a  bullet  15  to  the  pound)  being 
worked  by  the  fish.  The  * 'flagstaff"  is  made  of  wire,  the 
rest  of  pine  wood. 

234.  Bob  for   Eels  (Worms). — Take  a  piece  of 
small  stiff  wire,  and  about  a  yard  of  linen  thread.    Make 
a  double  half  hitch  on  one  end  of  the  wire  and  wet  the 
thread.     String  worms  lengthwise  on  the  thread  until  it 
is  full,  then  put  another  length  on  and  continue  until 
you  have  a  dozen  or  more  lengths.   Tie  the  ends  together, 
wind  them  over  your  hand,  and  then  tie  your  fishline  to 
the  bunch;  add  a  small  sinker. 

235.  Dobsoii    Bait.— The  dobson  or  helgramite, 
known  by  fifty  or  more  different  names  in  different  parts 
of  the  country,  is  the  larva  of  the  Oorydalis  cornutus 


(Linn.),  and  is  found  in  brooks  and  swift  rivers  under 
stones.  It  can  be  captured  by  putting  a  landing  net  be- 
low a  stone  and  then  lifting  the  latter.  It  is  an  excellent 
bait  for  black  bass.  Keep  it  off  the  bottom  or  it  will 
crawl  under  stones,  and  move  it  constantly.  Hook  it 
just  below  the  head,  between  the  joints. 

236.  Bob  for  Eels  (Meat). — Take  a  piece  of  coarse 
meat  and  sew  this  full  of  linen  thread,  crossing  the  thread 
in  all  directions.  Tie  to  line  with  sinker  as  above.  The 
best  time  for  bobbing  is  early  evening  or  just  before 
moonrise. 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  89 

£37.  Skittering". — Use  a  moderately  stiff  rod  with  a 
line  a  trifle  longer  than  the  rod.  Cast  the  bait  near  the 
bank,  grass  or  lily  pads.  Move  the  rod  sideways  so  that 
the  fish  will  skip  like  a  fish  trying  to  escape.  Use  min- 
now or  small  fish  for  bait,  and  hook  through  the  lip. 

238.  Black  Chul)  Bait.— The  black  chub  minnow 
is  one  of  the  best  live  baits  for  black  bass. 

239.  Grasshopper  Bait. — Do  not  use  a  sinker  with 
grasshopper  bait,  but  let  it  float  on  the  surface.     Use  it 
in  very  still  parts  of  a  stream  for  trout. 

240.  Earthworm   Bait.— Earthworms  or  "angle- 
worms" will  catch  any  fresh- water  fish.     In  salt  water 
only  eels  and  white  perch  bite  freely  on  them.     "Scour" 
them  by  leaving  them  over  night  in  moss0     If  wrapped 
in  some  earth  in  a  stout  cloth  they  can  be  kept  fresh 
several  days,  and  will  be  of  a  bright  scarlet  color  and 
very  lively. 

241.  Raw  Beef  Bait.— Raw  beef  is  the  best  bait 
for  trout  in  spring  before  worms  can  be  dug. 

242.  Mice   for  Trout  Bait.  — Obtain  a  nest    of 
young  mice  still  in  the  pink  and  place  the  hook  through 
the  tail  of  the  mouse.     This  is  effective  bait  in  deep  ponds 
or  lakes,  and  is  used  by  farmers'  boys,  who  attach  several 
mouse-baited  lines  to  shingle  buoys,  and  wait  on  shore 
until  the  shingle  signal".      The  trout  thus  caught   are 
always  large. 

243.  Home-Made  Artificial  Bait.— For   black 
bass  and  trout  take  the  neck  and  head  of  a  speckled  or 
red  fowl;  cut  the  neck  off  down  to  the  breast,  and  save 
the  skin  with  the  feathers  on.     Do  not  remove  them 
until  you  want  to  bait  your  hook ;  then  cut  a  strip  like  a 
worm  and  remove  the  feathers,  but  do  not  remove  the 
little  bright,  glistening  hairs.     When  on  the  hook  it  is  a 
most  enticing  bait,  and,  being  tough,  hangs  on  well  and 


90  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

looks  bright.  Sometimes  you  may  want  a  bait  like  a  bug 
or  grasshopper,  or  a  large  miller;  this  you  can  closely 
imitate  by  leaving  on  one  or  two  feathers.  Sometimes  a 
cut  from  the  wattles,  near  the  bill,  with  a  feather  or  two? 
or  a  piece  of  the  comb  and  a  piece  of  the  little  feathers 
attached,  will  lure  a  trout  when  nothing  else  will. 

244.  Carp  as  Bait. — A  young  carp  about  4  inches 
long  makes  an  excellent  black  bass  bait,  being  attractive 
in  appearance,  lively  in  motion  and  capable  of  living  a 
long  time  on  the  hook. 

245.  Sure  Bait  for  Pike.— One  authority  recom- 
mends a  trolling  bait  made  of  a  piece  of  mackerel  about 
H  inches  long  and  £  inch  broad,  cut  so  as  to  taper  toward 
the  lower  end.     Hook  as  near  the  extremity  of  the  broad 
end  as  possible. 

246.  Shedder  Crab  Bait.— This  favorite  bait  for 
salt-water  fishing  is  found  at  the  edge  of  low  water 
among  rocks  or  sunken  logs,  frequently  sheltered  by  sea- 
weed or  sedge.     It  is  a  soft-shell  crab  whose  shell  is  about 
as  hard  as  Bristol  board.     When  the  shell  is  removed  it 
has  a  thin,  tenacious  skin  which  can  be  placed  upon  the 
hook  so  as  to  show  as  much  as  possible  of  the  white  flesh. 
One  shedder  may  be  cut  into  five  baits,  counting  the 
two    claws.      It  is    the    cleanest    bait  to    handle,  and 
generally  the  most  acceptable  to  weakfish,  bluefish  (still- 
fishing),  eels,  blackfish,  flounders  and  porgies. 

247.  Shedder  Lobster  Bait,— Shedder  lobster  is 
as  good  a  bait  as  shedder  crab,  but  is  high-priced  to  buy 
and  difficult  to  obtain. 

248.  Shrimp  Bait. —In  any  still  part  of  a  salt- water 
river  or  creek  shrimp  may  be  caught  by  running  a  hand 
net  (made  of  mosquito  netting  in  the  shape  of  a  landing 
net)  along  close  to  the  shore  among  the  sedge.    Put  them 
in  a  can  of  salt  water  or  a  box  of  damp  sawdust  and  they 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  91 

will  live  all  day.  Put  them,  on  the  hook  from  end  to  end, 
tail  foremost,  the  point  of  the  hook  being  concealed,  or 
better  yet,  impale  them  on  the  point  of  the  hook,  when 
they  will  have  freedom  of  motion.  All  salt-water  fish 
like  shrimp. 

249.  Sand  worm  Bait.— Sand  worms  are  found  in 
black  sand,  especially  under  some  great  rock  beside  the 
sea  or  sound  at  ebb  tide.  They  grow  to  14  inches  in  length, 
are  of  a  red  color,  and  fringed  on  either  side  with  bran- 
chice,  and  have  a  beak  which  can  pinch  quite  forcibly. 
Put  them  in  a  box  with  a  small  quantity  of  sand,  not  too 
much  or  it  will  suffocate  them.     Lay  over  them  a  little 
seaweed,  and  they  will  keep  for  days.     For  striped  bass 
coil  a  whole  one  on  the  hook  in  such  a  way  that  it  will 
wriggle  naturally.     For  other  fish  they  may  be  broken  in 
two,  only  half  being  used  at  a  time.    About  New  York 
they  are  the  most  successful  salt-water  bait  used.  A  dead 
sandworm  is  useless  for  bait. 

250.  Clam  Bait. — Soft-shell  clams  can  be  obtained 
at  low  water  by  digging  in  the  sand  with  a  short- hand  led 
hoe  wherever  there  is  a  large  round  hole.     The  hard 
portions  make  the  bait,  the  shells  and  soft  portions  being 
thrown  overboard  to  attract  the  fish.  Blackfish  and  snap- 
ping mackerel  are  especially  fond  of  soft-shell  clams,  and 
other  fish  which  do  not  swim  near  the  bottom  will  bite  on 
them. 

251.  Live  Bait. — Use  the  smallest  sinkers  and  floats 
possible  with  live  bait.     If  heavy  ones  are  used  they  will 
soon  tire  and  kill  the  bait. 

252.  Preserving:  Minnows.— In  cold  weather  200 
to  300  minnows  may  be  carried  for  miles  in  a  3-gallon 
pail  with  a  close  cover,  filled  f  with  water  and  £  with 
handfuls  of  clean  rye  or  wheat  straw. — Maine  Fisherman. 

253.  Preserving   Minnows.— To    preserve    min- 
nows, put  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  table  salt  into  each  3  gallons 
of  water. 


92  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

254.  Keeping1  Minnows  in  Fruit  Jars. — "Pise- 
co"  reports  that  lie  has  kept  two  minnows  alive  in  a  pint 
fruit  jar  two-thirds  full  of  water  for  9  days.     Two  min- 
nows put  into  a  jar  of  water  that  was  closed  air-tight 
lived  8  days.     The  jars  were  set  on  a  shelf  in  a  stable. 

255.  Preserving  Frog's  and  Crawfish.— Frogs 

and  crawfish  may  be  kept  alive  some  days  by  packing 
them  in  wet  moss. 

256.  Preserving1  Crabs.— To  keep  soft-shell  crabs, 
pack  them  closely  together,  claws  up,  in  a  box,  cover 
with  green  seaweed  or  fresh  grass;  keep  cool. 

25  7.  Hooking-  Minnow  Bait. — For  casting  or  troll- 
ing, hook  the  minnow  through  the  rim  or  cartilage  of  both 
lips.  For  still-fishing,  use  small  hooks,  and  insert  the 
hook  through  the  middle  of  the  back  just  above  the  back 
bone. 

258.  Minnow  Decoys. — Sink  a  bottle  of  water  with 
minnows  in  it— eight  or  ten  to  a  quart — to  attract  fish  to 
the  spot. 

259.  The   "Whipo"— The  leader  with  its  flies  is 
called  the   whip.     The  fly  at  the  end  is  the  stretcher, 
drag-fly  or  tail-fly;  those  above  are  drop-flies,  droppers 
or  bobbers.    The  stretcher  should  generally  be  the  largest 
(Roosevelt  says  the  smallest),  as,  the  weight  being  then 
at  the  end,  a  longer  cast  can  be  made  and  the  resistance 
in   drawing  it  over  the  surface  keeps  the  leader  taut. 
When  casting  a    short  line  (18  to  25  feet),  the  dropper 
should  not  be  more  than  80  inches  from  the  stretcher. 
When  the  novice  learns  to  cast  well  the  flies  may  be  4 
feet  apart.     For  the  beginner  the  leader  should  not  be 
more  that  6  feet  long.     After  it  may  be  increased  to  8  or 
10  feet. 

260.  Rigging-  the  Cast.— In  rigging  the  cast  for 
fly-fishing,  if  the  leader  is  provided  with  loops  at  each 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  93 

end,  and  for  drop-flies,  proceed  as  follows:  To  the  small 
end  of  the  leader  attach  the  stretcher  or  tail-fly  by  pass- 
ing the  loop  of  the  leader  through  the  loop  of  the  snell 
and  over  the  fly,  then  draw  together.  Three  or  four  feet 
from  the  tail-fly  attach  the  dropper  or  bob-fly,  in  the  same 
manner,  that  is,  put  the  loop  of  the  snell  over  the  loop  of 
the  leader,  and  push  the  fly  through  the  latter  loop  and 
draw  tight;  or,  if  the  leader  is  not  furnished  with  loops 
for  this  purpose,  slip  a  knot  of  the  leader  (about  8  or  4  feet 
from  the  tail-fly)  apart,  and  after  making  a  knot  in  the 
end  of  the  snell  of  the  fly,  put  it  through  the  opened  knot 
of  the  leader  and  draw  together;  this  will  hold  firm,  and 
the  dropper-fly  will  stand  at  right  angles  from  the  leader. 
If,  however,  the  gut  lengths  of  the  leader  are  tied  by  hard, 
close  knots,  instead  of  the  slip  knot  or  double  water  knot, 
then  the  snell  of  the  dropper  must  be  attached  close  to, 
and  above  a  knot  of  the  leader,  by  a  single  knot  or  half- 
hitclr  a  round  knot  having  previously  been  made  in  the 
end  of  the  snell,  to  prevent  the  half -hitch  from  working 
loose;  this  is  probably  as  good  and  safe  a  way  as  any.  If 
the  angler  wishes  to  employ  three,  the  third  fly,  or  second 
dropper,  must  be  attached  3  feet  above  the  first  dropper; 
in  this  case  the  leader  should  be  9  feet  long. 

261.  Knot  for  Siiocd  Loops. — Hold  the  cord  in 
the  left  hand,  and  with  the  right  hand  make  first  a  small 
(Fig.  1)  and  then  a  larger  loop  (Fig.  2),  placing  the  end  of 


FIG.  1.  FIG.  2.  FIG.  3. 

the  cord  under  the  smaller  one  (Fig.  3).  Now  insert  the 
large  loop  through  the  smaller  one  from  the  back  at  A 
and  draw  tight. 


94  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

202.  Attaching  Droppers.— In  tying  lengths  of 
gut  together  to  make  the  leader,  when  you  arrive  at,  the 
point  where  it  is  desired  to  have  a  dropper  loop,  say  30 
inches  for  a  fine  trout  leader,  or  3  feet  for  a  heavy  trout 
or  bass,  from  the  lower  end  to  which  the  stretcher  fly  is 
looped,  double  the  gut  back,  making  a  loop  up  the  leader, 
lay  the  other  upper  strand  alongside,  as  in  Fig.  1,  then 
make  a  curl  in  them  all  and  pass  loop  and  line  gut 
through,  or  in  other  words,  make  a  knot,  as  in  ordinary 
tying.  It  will  then  present  the  appearance  of  Fig.  2. 
Then  draw  down  tight,  and  having  the  gut  well  soaked 
and  soft,  take  the  loop  just  tied  in  one  hand  and  the 
upper  end,  (7,  in  the  other,  and  pull  them  strongly  apart, 
so  that  the  loop  will  be  pulled  down  the  line.  Then, 
when  released,  instead  of  pointing  straight  up  the  leader 


B 


and  lying  hard  on  C,  it  will  point  out  nearly  at  right 
angles.  The  loop  is  seen  on  a  completed  leader  in  Fig.  3, 
in  which  A  is  the  stretcher  loop,  B  the  dropper  loop  and 
C  the  upper  or  reel  line  loop.  This  way  onables  any  man, 
whether  he  be  an  adept  in  making  tackle  or  not,  to  fasten 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  95 

on  or  take  off  in  a  moment  a  dropper  as  easily  as  a 
stretcher.  The  advantage  of  tying  the  loop  into  the  line 
in  this  way  is  that  pointing  up  and  being  a  short  stiff 
loop,  the  dropper  always  stands  out  at  a  right  angle  with 
the  line,  making  it  an  impossibility  for  it  to  foul  with 
the  leader;  the  hook  is  never  curled  over  the  line,  so  if  a 
fish  strikes  he  gets  it  into  his  mouth  as  easily  as  the 
stretcher  fly. 

263.  Wax  for  Snelling  Hooks.— Burgundy  pitch 
120  grakis,  white  resin  60  grains,  tallow  20  grains.     Pow- 
der and  mix  the  pitch  and  resin  and  put  into  an  oven  in 
a  pipkin.     When  melted  add  the  tallow  and  stir  all  to- 
gether.    Let  the  mixture  stand  twelve  hours. — H.  Choi- 
mtndeley-Pennell. 

264.  Wax  for  Gut  Leader. — Take  2  ounces  best 
resin  and  ^  ounce  beeswax,  simmer  together  in  pipkin 
for  10  minutes;  add  £  ounce  tallow;  continue  to  simmer 
15  minutes;  then  pour  the  mass  into  a  basin  of  cold  water 
and  work  with  the  fingers  until  it  is  pliable. 

265.  Snelling-  or  Gimping  Hooks.— When  the 
gut  is  selected  cut  off  the  imperfect  ends  and  place  it  in 
tepid  water  until  it  is  thoroughly  soaked  and  soft,  then 
tie  the  end  loop  by  doubling  one  end  of  the  gut  length 
and  making  a  common  knot  in  the  doubled  portion. 


The  hook  can  now  be  tied  on  while  the  gut  is  soft, 
or  the  gut  may,  by  making  a  knot  in  one  end  and  using 
a  pin  in  the  loop,  be  stretched  on  a  board  to  dry  and  then 


96  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

tied.  The  whipping  is  the  same  in  either  case,  but  if  the 
gut  is  whipped  after  it  is  dry,  the  parts  to  be  covered  by 
the  silk  must  be  nicked  or  dented,  which  is  done  between 
the  teeth,  care  being  taken  not  to  bite  so  hard  as  to  split 
the  gut.  You  will  find  the  whipping  equally  secure 
whether  the  gut  is  either  wet  or  dry.  Another  thing  you 
will  find  makes  no  difference;  that  is,  whether  the 
whipping  begins  at  the  end  of  the  shank  and  extends 
toward  the  bend  of  the  hook  or  vice  versa.  From  tying 
reenforced  snells,  one  gets  into  the  habit  of  beginning 
the  rounding  at  the  end  of  the  shank;  but  if  you  always 
fasten  the  silk  with  an  invisible  knot,  there  is  little  dan- 
ger of  a  fish  cutting  the  knot  with  its  teeth,  as  has  been 
claimed  they  will  do.  A  snell  is  quite  apt  to  become 
weak  or  even  break  just  at  the  end  of  the  shank  from 
,  contact  with  it.  Some  shanks  terminate  in  a  veritable 
point;  such  are  cut  off  with  a  pair  of  cutting  pliers  and 
then  filed  smooth  with  a  fine  file,  but  all  hooks  larger  than 
No.  3  Dublin,  Limerick  (O'Shaughnessy),  are  "reenforced" 
by  making  the  gut  double  for  half  or  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  above  the  end  of  shank.  The  easier  way  to  do  this 
is  to  make  a  long  loop  with  a  common  knot  similar  to 
the  loop  made  for  attaching  the  snell  to  the  leader.  If 
one's  gut-lengths  will  not  warrant  this  appropriation,  a 
short  piece  of  gut  may  be  wound  on  to  the  shank  with 
the  snell,  and  the  free  end  of  the  extra  piece  fastened  to 
the  snell  with  a  bit  of  waxed  silk.  Having  gut-lengths, 
hooks,  wax  and  silk,  wax  thoroughly  a  piece  of  silk  by 
holding  one  end  between  the  teeth  and  the  other  in  the 
left  hand.  Holding  the  hook  at  the  bend  between  the 
finger  and  thumb  of  the  left  hand,  lay  the  end  of  the 
waxed  silk  on  the  shank  a  little  above  the  point  of  the 
hook  and  take  four,  five  or  six  turns,  according  to  size  of 
hook,  with  the  silk  around  shank  until  the  end  is  reached. 
Then  make  three  or  four  turns  of  the  silk  close  together, 
just  at  the  ends,  so  as  to  completely  cover  it,  as  a  cushion 
or  shield  against  the  wear  of  the  steel,  should  it  come  in 


FISH  AND  FISHING. 


97 


direct  contact  with  the  gut.     These  first  few  turns  of  the 
silk  make  a  spiral  ridge  around  the  shank  which  acts  like 


the  marks  on  the  straight  shank  when  using  soaked  gut, 
and  with  dry  gut  act  in  combination  with  the  dents 
made  with  the  teeth  to  prevent  the  steel  and  gut  pulling 
apart.  When  the  end  of  shank  is  covered,  lay  the  gut 
length  on  the  back  of  the  shank  and  wind  the  silk  closely 
and  tightly  to  the  point  of  beginning.  Notice  the  silk  as 
you  wind  to  see  that  it  is  well  waxed,  or  wax  as  occasion 
demands.  When  the  starting  point  is  reached  lay  the  free 
end  of  the  silk  on  the  winding  with  the  end  toward  the 
end  of  shank,  which  makes  a  loop  in  the  silk,  then  take 
the  slack  of  the  loop  and  continue  winding  for  three  or 
four  turns,  but  wind  over  the  free  end  of  the  silk.  The 
following  diagram  will  show  the  manner: 


A  A,  free  end  of  silk  turned  back  on  winding.  Take 
slack  of  loop  at  B  and  wind  over  silk,  A  A.  Then  take 
free  end  of  silk  and  draw  tight  and  cut  off  closely.  When 
the  winding  or  whipping  is  finished  it  will  be  found  that 
the  wax  has  been  squeezed  to  the  outside  of  the  silk  by 
the  pressure  in  winding.  This  must  be  rubbed  smooth 
with  finger  and  thumb,  when  it  will  appear  that  the  silk 
is  nicely  coated  with  the  wax.  With  a  camel's  hair  brush 
go  over  the  winding  with  orange  shellac  and  put  aside  to 
dry  until  the  alcohol  evaporates,  leaving  a  smooth  coat- 


98  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

ing  of  shellac  over  the  silk  and  wax.  It  may  be  necessary 
to  renew  the  shellac  after  a  time,  but  one  will  have  had 
so  much  fishing  with  hooks  tied  in  this  manner  before  it 
is  necessary,  that  it  will  be  done  with  thanks  for  past 
services.  Hooks  are  tied  to  gimp  in  the  same  way  as 
above  described,  except  black  linen  thread  is  used  instead 
of  silk,  and  the  loop  in  the  end  of  the  gimp  snell  must  be 
made  by  winding  the  doubled  parts  instead  of  tying. 

266.  Snelling-  Hooks.— Grasp  the  hook  by  the  bend 
in  a  pair  of  pliers,  and  heat  the  tapered  end  of  the  hook 
in  the  flame  of  a  spirit  lamp  till  it  will  melt  wax  readily. 
Then  give  it  a  coating  by  rubbing  it  on  a  lump  of  shoe- 
maker's wax.    The  hook  should  be  hot  enough  to  burn  it 
on,  so  as  to  form  a  smooth,  even  coat  of  wax.     Then  tie 
on  snell  in  the  usual  way  with  waxed  silk  thread  and 
finish  with  shellac.     An  occasional  coat  of  shellac  will 
preserve  them  till  worn  out.     They  will  never  slip.     The 
object  of  using  the  pliers  is  not  only  to  prevent  burning 
the  fingers,  but  to  prevent  the  heat  drawing  the  temper 
of  the  hook  above  where  it  is  grasped  by  the  pliers. — -ZV. 

267.  Siielling  Hooks. — Get  a  roll  of  rubber  cement 
such  as  is  used  to  fasten  bicycle  tires  (it  can  be  procured 
where  bicycles  are  sold),  warm  the  shank  of  the  hook  in 
a  lamp  sufficient  to  melt  the  cement,   then  draw  the 
shank  of  the  hook  across  a  piece  of  the  cement  and 
^enough  will  adhere  to  answer  the  purpose.     Let  it  cool 
for  a  second  to  prevent  it  from  sticking  to  the  fingers, 
then  press  the  end  of  the  snell  on  in  just  the  position  you 
wish  it  to  remain.    After  allowing  the  cement  to  stiffen 
a  little  more  wrap  with  good  thread,  and  if  you  have 
just  the  proper  quantity  of  cement  and  the  right  con- 
sistency the  wrapping  thread  will  bury  into  the  cement 
smoothly;  it  will  be  perfectly  waterproof  and  stick  to 
business   under    all   circumstances.     The    cement    also 
answers  well  to  waterproof  thread  or  cord  for  wrapping; 
use  as  you  would  cobbler's  was..— Californian. 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  99 

268.  Siioodlng-  Hooks.— To  snood  hooks  with  silk- 
worm gut,  instead  of  fastening  the  gut  direectly  to  the 
hook,  fasten  a  small  loop  of  relaid  linen  line  No.  5  to  the 
hook.     The  loop  should  be  quite  small,  not  over  £  inch. 
Then  prepare  the  gut  by  tying  a  loop  at  each  end,  one 
for  attaching  the  hook  through  the  small  loop  on  hook, 
the  other  for  attaching  the  line.     Many  advantages  are 
gained  by  this  method,  the  gut  is  double  near  the  hook? 
it  also  forms  a  flexible  joint  and  avoids  the  annoyance 
of  chafing  or  breaking  off  by  being  bent  short;  in  case  a 
hook  is  broken,  another  can  be  easily  attached  to  the 
same  gut.    Hooks  and  gut  can  be  carried  separately  and 
attached  when  required  for  use. — Calif ornian. 

269.  Fly-Casting*  Lessons. — The  novice  may  try 
casting  on  snow  or  grass  without  flies  or  anything  beyond 
a  simple  knot  in  the  end  of  his  line  to  keep  it  from  fray- 
ing out.     The  first  thing  to  be  impressed  is  not  to  attempt 
long  casts;  these  are  for  the  distant  future.     Water  is  by 
far  the  best  medium  to  learn  to  cast  upon,  for  the  resist- 
ance to  the  line  when  retrieving  is  exactly  what  he  will 
experience  in  actual  fishing.     For  the  first  cast  he  takes 
his  position  where  there  is  no  obstacle  behind  him  to 
interfere  with  his  back  cast.     It  is  entirely  upon  this 
back  oast,  or  the  retrieving  of  the  line  that  his  success 
depends,     It  must  on  no  account  touch  the  ground  or 
water  behind  him.     Let  him  begin  with  about  fifteen 
feet  of  line,  his  rod  in  an  erect  position,  and  then  make 
a  forward  cast;  his  elbow  close  to  the  body  and  the  move- 
ment mainly  with  the  wrist.     As  the  line  lies  out  upon 
the  water,  with  the  rod  parallel  to  its  surface,  he  should 
draw  it  back  a  foot  or  two  slowly,  gradually  increasing 
its  speed,  and  then  with  the  spring  of  the  rod  send  it  up 
behind  him  with  an  upward  motion  of  his  wrist,  stop  his 
rod  at  nearly  a  vertical  position;  then  allowing  just  as 
much  time  for  the  line  to  be  straightened  out  behind  as 
it  occiipied  in  going  forward,  let  him  make  the  cast 


100  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

again  with  his  wrist  and  send  it  forward.  He  should 
practice  this  until  he  can  lay  his  line  straight  upon  the 
water  in  the  spot  where  he  wishes  it  to  land.  When  he 
has  accomplished  this  to  his  satisfaction,  let  him  take  his 
left  hand  and  reel  off  a  few  feet  more  line  while  it  lies 
upon  the  water  and  before  he  retrieves  it.  The  resistance 
of  the  water  will  then  draw  this  extra  line  through  the 
rings,  and  he  must  allow  a  little  more  time  for  the  line  to 
get  behind  him  than  he  did  before.  He  must  also  bear 
in  mind  that  his  rod  must  not  stand  at  a  greater  angle 
than  forty-five  degrees  behind  him,  and  if  he  attempts  to 
stop  it  when  it  is  vertical  he  will  find  it  will  go  back  to 
about  this  angle.  It  would  be  well  to  count  one,  two, 
three  backward,  timing  it  as  a  musician  counts  his  beats. 
As  he  gets  out  more  line,  it  will  be  necessary  to  draw  it 
slightly  nearer  him,  in  order  to  start  it  from  the  water, 
than  when  he  was  making  shorter  casts;  but  in  all  cases 
he  must  start  it  slowly,  increasing  the  speed  until  he 
gives  it  a  twitch  which  sends  it  back,  always  bearing  in 
mind  that  it  is  the  rod  which  is  to  do  the  work  by  its 
spring,  and  not  entirely  his  muscles.  The  cast  of  a  fly  is 
a  sleight  which  is  only  to  be  acquired  by  practice. 
Should  he  fail  in  giving  it  time  to  straighten  out  behind 
him,  he  will  hear  a  snap  like  the  crack  of  a  whip,  which, 
in  case  he  had  a  fly  upon  the  leader,  would  be  snapped 
off;  yet,  should  he  give  it  too  much  time,  he  will  find 
that  the  line  falls  in  the  water  behind  him  and  impedes 
his  cast.  A  longer  cast  can  be  made  without  flies  than 
with  them,  as  a  rule,  and  only  when  he  attains  the  pro- 
ficiency of  having  his  back  cast  go  straight  out  behind 
him,  and  can  start  it  just  at  that  moment  when  it 
straightens,  without  looking  behind  to  see  where  it  is, 
should  he  attempt  to  use  the  fly.  There  is  a  peculiar  up- 
ward motion  of  the  wrist  attained  only  by  practice  which 
sends  the  fly,  instead  of  straight  behind  the  caster,  up 
into  the  air,  and  an  expert  can  do  this  without  danger  of 
catching  low  bushes,  such  as  alders,  etc. ,  which  may  be 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  101 

close  behind.  It  is  during  these  early  days  of  practice 
that  the  novice  will  acquire  a  sleight  of  hand,  good  or 
bad,  which  will  stick  to  him  for  a  long  time.  Practicing 
alone  he  cannot  judge  of  his  faults  of  style.  He  should 
beware  of  slashing  his  line  forward  in  the  hope  of  get- 
ting it  out  by  main  strength;  remembering  that  the  elas- 
ticity of  the  rod  is  the  projecting  power,  and  that  the 
physical  strength  of  the  caster  is  a  very  small  fac- 
tor in  sending  a  fly  to  a  distance.  Keeping  his  elbow 
close  to  the  body  in  the  beginning  will  teach  him 
to  depend  upon  his  wrist  more  than  upon  his  arm. 
A  beginner  should  never  attempt  to  cast  beyond  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  feet,  until  he  can  lay  his  line  straight  and 
without  kink  upon  the  water  for  that  distance.  He 
should  pay  attention  to  the  falling  of  the  flies  upon  the 
water.  The  first  efforts  will  doubtless  be  accompanied 
by  a  splash.  He  can,  however,  soon  acquire  the  trick  of 
checking  the  line  and  so  regulating  the  tip  of  his  rod  that 
the  flies  will  fall  gently.  This  is  one  of  the  most  difficult 
things  to  explain,  but  quite  easy  to  do.  It  is  perfectly 
possible,  at  a  distance  of  forty  or  fifty  feet,  to  cast,  check 
the  line,  and  raise  the  tip  in  such  a  manner  that  the  flies 
shall  alight  before  the  line  does.  In  actual  fishing  we  do 
not  often  do  this,  and  it  is  perhaps  more  ornamental  than 
useful.  In  long  casts  the  line  will  strike  the  water  be- 
yond its  middle  and  gradually  follow  out  until  the  end  is 
reached,  even  the  point  where  the  leader  is  joined  to  the 
line  being  in  advance  of  the  flies,  until  this  point  touches 
the  water,  where  tlie  flies  go  on  beyond  and  straighten 
out  to  the  full  length  of  the  cast.  The  beginner  should, 
by  all  means,  have  a  friend  to  watch  when  the  line 
goes  behind  him,  and  caution  him  to  give  more  or  not 
quite  so  much  time,  although  it  is  seldom  the  latter 
caution  will  be  used.  Our  own  experience  in  teaching 
novices  has  been  that  they  fail  in  not  giving  the  line  time 
enough  behind  them  in  order  to  have  it  perfectly  straight 
and  no  whip  cracking  in  the  rear.  In  practice  haste 


102  FISH  AND  FISBIN&. 

should  be  made  slowly,  and  a  certain  distance  should  be 
well  covered  and  cast  with  certainty  every  time  before 
any  increase  is  attempted.  Casting  with  the  wind  is  by 
far  the  easiest,  and  one  should  begin  in  this  way  if  there 
is  any  wind;  afterward  he  should  cast  against  the  wind, 
when  he  will  find  that  with  a  moderate  breeze  he  requires 
more  vim  in  the  cast  than  he  does  in  the  recovery  when 
the  wind  helps  him  to  get  his  line  well  behind.  He 
should  by  all  means  learn  to  cast  with  both  hands,  that 
in  actual  fishing  he  may  rest  one  arm  by  casting  with  the 
other,  a  very  great  advantage,  as  he  will  find  in  a  day's 
work.  No  amount  of  teaching  will  make  him  a  good 
caster,  practice  alone  will  do  this. 

07 O.  Points  in  Fly-Fishing-.— Keep  your  trout 
line  always  straight  by  the  motion  of  the  hand,  and  your 
fly  will  keep  to  the  surface  whether  in  still  or  quick 
water.   In  a  running  stream  draw  your  fly  up  and  athwart 
the  current,  sometimes  letting  it  drop  down  a  little.  What 
yon  want  in  fly-fishing  is  motion,  always  motion. 

271.  The  "  Strike  "  in  Fly-Casting.— When  you 
have  learned  to  cast  flies  with  some  little  skill,  try  to 
catch  a  trout.     You  will  find  that  casting  flies  and  catch- 
ing trout  are  not  precisely  one  and  the  same  thing.    You 
will  read  in  books  that  the  instant  you  see  a  rise,  strike. 
Don't  do  it,  at  least  not  yet.    For  the  present,  when  you 
get  a  rise,  wait  until  you  feel  your  fish,  then  a  light  strike 
will  fasten  it.     You  are  but  a  beginner  and  your  enthus- 
iasm will  very  likely  cause  you  to  forget  the  delicate 
nature  of  your  apparatus.     If  you  strike  hard  you  are 
likely  to  break  your  rod,  or  if  the  fish  is  small  you  are 
liable  to  send  him  sailing  through  the  air  over  into  the 
next  county.   Therefore  strike  just  hard  enough  to  fasten 
your  fish  and  play  him  in  the  water  until  he  turns  over 
exhausted.     If  he  pulls  too  hard  of  course  you  will  give 
him  line,  but  make  him  earn  every  inch.   When  he  seems 
very  weary  you  can  reel  him  in,  but  look  out  for  his  last 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  103 

break,  for  every  fish,  no  matter  how  tired  he  may  seem, 
will  make  a  final  vicious  rush  for  liberty  when  he  is 
brought  near  the  landing  net,  and  his  capers  in  this  last 
frantic  struggle  are  dangerous  and  often  end" in  his  escape. 
—Kit  Clarice. 

272.  Casting  Against  tlie  Wind.— Tn  fly-casting 
against  the  wind,  lift  your  line  from  the  water  so  that  it 
extends  behind  you  at  an  angle  of  45°;  then  bring  your 
rod  down  sharply  right  on  to  the  water,  and  straight 
against  the  wind.     This  makes  the  line  cut  through  it 
and  extend  out  straight  on  to  the  water. — Ira  Wood. 

273.  Casting  Sidewise  for  Trout. — Casting  side- 
wise  is  preferred  when  possible  in  trout  fishing,  as  the 
wary  trout  is  easily  startled  by  the  motion  of  the  rod  in 
the  air. 

274.  Fly  Philosophy. — The  insects  that  are  most 
common  about  the  locality  fished  are  the  ones  to  imitate 
in  artificial  flies.     Dark  days,  evenings,  and  deep  or  dis- 
colored waters,  use  larger  and  brighter  flies;  clear  or  low 
water  or  bright  days,  use  smaller  and  plain-colored  flies. 

275.  Size  of  Flies.— Most  artificial  flies  sold  are  too 
large.      Trout  flies,  especially,  are  often  so  big  as  to 
frighten  instead  of  alluring  the  fish.     Bass  flies  are  much 
smaller  now  than  they  were  a  few  years  ago,  and  the 
tendency  is  for  yet  smaller  ones. 

276.  Color  of  Leaders. — In  still  water  success  will 
be  small  unless  the  leader  is  of  the  same  color  as  grasses, 
weeds,  etc.,  that  the  fish  are  accustomed  to.     In  brisk 
water  this  plan  may  be  followed,  or  the  leader  be  of 
"mist"  color. 

277.  Sink  the  Fly.— Success  is  frequently  had  in 
black   bass    fishing    by    attaching    a    buckshot    to    the 
stretcher  fly  and  allowing  it  to  sink  about  2  feet  below 
the  surface,  drawing  it  gradually  toward  the  boat. 


104  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

278.  Caution  in  Fly-Fishing.— More  caution  is 
necessary  in  fly-fishing  than  in  bait-fishing,  as  objects 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  water  do  not  frighten  the  fish 
so  readily  as  objects  on  or  over  the  surface.    Keep  out  of 
sight  of  the  fish,  don't  let  the  shadow  of  your  red  or 
yourself  fall  on  the  water,  and  keep  as  motionless  as  pos- 
sible. 

279.  Landing  Net  for  Fly-Fishing.— For   fly- 
fishing a  short-handled  net  is  the  best,  and  should  be  as 
light  as  possible.    Those  with  wooden  rims  are  as  good 
as  any,  though  the  folding  ring  nets  are  more  convenient 
and  portable.    The  net  should  be  of  good  depth,  and  of 
rather  coarse  mesh.     When  the  fishing  is  done  from  a 
boat,  the  long-handled  net  is  preferable,  but  when  fishing 
a  stream  by  wading,  or  from  the  bank,  the  short-handled 
net  is  more  easily  carried,  and  answers  every  purpose 
better  than  the  long  one. 

280.  Fly-Fishing  in  Smooth  Water.— In  clear, 
smooth  water,  let  the  fly  sink  a  little,  then  move  it 
with  a  quick  motion. 

281.  Minnow  Casting. — In  casting  for  black  bass, 
having  properly  adjusted  the  rod,  reel  and  line,  tie  on  the 
swivel  by  one  of  its  rings,  and  loop  the  snell  of  the  hook 
through  the  other;  run  the  point  of  the  hook  through  the 
under  lip  and  out  at  the  nostril  of  a  good- sized  minnow, 
say  4  inches  long,  reel  up  the  line  until  the  swivel  touches 
the  tip  and  make  a  cast.    The  angler  is  supposed  to  be 
standing  at  A,  facing  N,  and  his  shoulders  in  a  line  with 
XZ.    Casting  the  minnow  is  an  entirely  different  process 
from  casting  the  fly.    A  minnow  can  be  cast  but  a  very 
short  distance  immediately  in  front  of  the  angler,  and  all 
long  casts  must  be  made  sidewise,  that  is,  to  the  left  or 
right.    To  make  a  long  cast  to  the  left  we  will  suppose  X 
to  be  the  objective  point  to  which  the  minnow  is  to  be 
cast.    The  angler  now  grasps  the  rod  immediately  below 


FISH  AND  FISHING. 


105 


the  reel  with  the  right  hand,  with  the  thumb  resting 
lightly  but  firmly  upon  the  spool ;  the  right  arm  is  now 
extended  downward ,  slightly  bent  with  the  elbow  near 
the  body,  and  with  the  extreme  butt  of  the  rod  nearly 
touching  the  right  hip;  the  thumb  and  reel  are  upward, 
inclining  slightly  toward  the  left;  the  tip  of  the  rod,  or 
rather  the  minnow,  just  clears  the  ground  or  surface  of 
the  water;  the  position  of  the  rod  is  now  in  the  direction 
of  the  line  A  B,  inclining  toward  the  ground  or  water, 
making  an  angle  of  about  45  degrees  with  the  line  of  the 


K 


shoulders,  XZ;  this  is  the  situation  at  the  beginning  of 
the  cast.  Now  for  the  cast:  The  angler  turns  his  face 
toward  X,  the  objective  point,  looking  over  his  left 
shoulder  without  turning  his  body;  he  now  inclines  his 
body  in  the  direction  of  B,  advancing  the  right  foot  and 
bending  the  right  knee  slightly,  and  makes  a  sweeping 
cast  from  the  right  to  the  left,  and  from  below  upward, 
across  the  body  diagonally,  until  the  rod  hand  is  at  the 
height  of  the  left  shoulder,  and  the  arm  and  rod  extended 
in  the  direction  of  A  C,  with  the  tip  of  the  rod  inclining 
upward.  The  movement  of  the  right  hand  is  almost  in  a 
straight  line  from  a  point  near  the  right  hip  to  a  point 
near  the  left  shoulder;  the  motion  in  casting  is  steady, 


106  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

increasing  in  swiftness  toward  the  end  of  the  cast,  and 
ending  with  the  "pitching"  of  the  bait — instead  of  a 
violent  jerk — somewhat  similar  to  the  straight  under- 
hand pitching  of  a  base  ball.  In  making  the  cast,  the 
right  elbow  should  touch  the  body,  sweeping  across  it, 
and  only  leave  it  at  the  end  of  the  cast,  making  the  fore- 
arm do  the  work.  At  the  end  of  the  cast  the  reel  and 
thumb  are  upward,  and  the  rod  forms  an  angle  of  45 
degrees  with  the  line  of  the  shoulders  XZ,  and  the  min- 
now instead  of  following  the  direction  of  the  rod  A  C,  as 
some  might  suppose,  will  diverge  toward  the  left,  and 
drop  at  X,  when  the  thumb  should  immediately  stop  the 
reel  by  an  increased  pressure.  Casting  to  the  right  is 
just  the  reverse  of  the  above  proceeding.  The  angler 
being  in  the  same  position,  brings  the  right  hand  across, 
and  touching  the  body,  to  a  point  in  front  of  the  left  hip, 
the  thumb  and  reel  upward,  but  inclining  toward  the 
body,  and  the  rod  extending  in  the  direction  of  the  line 
A  (7,  with  the  tip  downward;  he  now  turns  his  face  in 
the  direction  of  the  objective  point  Z,  inclines  his  body 
and  advances  his  left  foot  in  the  direction  of  C,  and 
makes  a  cast  from  left  to  right,  and  from  below  upward, 
and  ends  the  cast  with  the  right  arm  and  rod  fully  ex- 
tended in  the  direction  of  the  line  A  B,  while  the  minnow 
takes  its  flight  toward  Z.  In  making  a  cast  to  either  left 
or  right  the  body  should  sway  or  move  slightly  in  the 
direction,  and  simultaneously  with  the  rod  arm;  it  will 
give  force  and  steadiness  to  the  cast;  but  on  no  account 
must  the  body  be  turned  around  or  the  feet  moved  during 
the  cast;  let  us  be  graceful  if  we  cannot  be  proficient. 
The  first  cast  that  the  beginner  makes  will  be  likely  to 
throw  the  bait  behind  him ;  this  will  be  because  he  will 
not  end  the  cast  in  time,  but  carry  the  tip  of  the  rod  too 
far  toward  the  line  X  Z.  He  should  by  all  means  begin 
by  making  short  casts,  and  lengthening  them  as  he  per- 
fects himself  by  experience  in  managing  the  reel  and 
controlling  the  cast.—Henshall. 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  107 

282.  Position  of  the  Reel.— The  weight  of  a  reel 
naturally  causes  it  to  turn  to  the  bottom;  hence  when  it 
is  placed  there  it  is  quiescent  and  requires  no  strain  of 
muscle  to  keep  it  in  position.     A  reel  on  the  bottom  of  a 
rod  held  in  the  left  hand  comes  in  position  to  work  the 
crank  with  the  right  when  needed.     When  the  fish  is 
likely  to  demand  the  whole  spring  of  the  rod  then  of 
course  he  is  not  being  reeled  in.     A  heavy  reel  on  top  or 
on  the  side  of  a  rod  keeps  twisting  to  get  below. 

283.  Swelling  of  Rod  Joints.— The  swelling  of 
the  joints  of  a  rod  can  be  prevented  by  rubbing  them 
with  mutton  tallow  and  loosening  them  every  night. 
Use  the  same  precaution  with  reel  bands. 

284.  Tight  Joints  in  a  Rod.— To  loosen  the  tight 
joints  of  a  rod  heat  them  with  a  lighted  match. 

285.  Putting-  Away  Rods. — Rods  should  be  rubbed 
with  a  cloth  and  hung  up  or  laid  out  straight. 

286.  Broken  Rod  Guides.— When  a  guide  on  your 
rod  breaks  supply -a  new  one  immediately  and  thus  save 
a  broken  rod. 

287.  Varnish  for  Rods.— Thin  down  coach  body 
varnish  with  spirits  of  turpentine  until  you  can  apply  a 
coat  so  thin  that  no  brush  marks  show.     Hang  the  rod 
then  in  the  wind  and  sun,  and  when  perfectly  dry  apply 
another  coat.     Three  or  four  coats  will  suffice. 

288.  Varnish  for  Rods.— At  the  beginning  of  the 
season  clean  all  the  metal  parts  with  rottenstone  and 
sweet  oil,  but  never  touch  the  male  ferrules.     Then  with 
a  piece  of  old  fine  felt,  a  little  extra  fine  pumicestone 
and  raw  linseed  oil  rub  it  down  thoroughly,  being  care- 
ful in  the  wiping  not  to  chafe  the  silk;  wipe  off  very 
clean  and  let  it  stand  for  a  day  or  two  to  get  dry.     Then 
take  a  fine -haired  flat  brash  and  with  hard  oil  finish 
give  one  coat,  suspend  the  rod  by  strings  for  one  or  two 


108  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

days  and  give  the  secoad  coat,  and  suspend  again  for  five 
days  or  more  and  let  it  get  hard.  Now  take  old  felt,  raw 
oil  and  rottenstone  and  rub  it  lightly,  but  thoroughly; 
'wipe  off  with  an  old  rag  and  you  will  have  a  handsomely 
finished  rod.  Water  will  not  affect  it.  When  you  quit 
fishing  wipe  the  rod  dry,  and  when  you  get  home  or 
to  camp  rub  it  well  with  raw  oil  on  a  rag  and  oil  the 
male  ferrules  with  a  drop  of  good  gun  oil,  polish  your 
mountings,  place  in  a  partition  bag  and  hang  up  in  a 
cool  place.  If  you  tie  the  bag  tie  it  loosely. — W.  S.  S. 

289.  Varnishing  Trout  Rods.— Highly  varnished 
trout  rods  no  doubt  scare  many  fish.     A  rod  of  dull  tint 
is  preferable. 

290.  Dyeing*  Lines. — To  dye  blue,  soak  in  indigo 
water;  the  stronger  the  dye  the  deeper  the  color.     To  dye 
green,  soak  in  a  strong  decoction  of  green  tea.     To  dye 
brown,  soak  in  strong  coffee. 

291.  Dye  for  Leaders. — Dye  leaders  used  in  clear 
water  with  the  juice  of  milkweed,  or  equal  portions  cf 
Arnold's  fluid  (ink)  and  water.     To  dye  green  use  Ar- 
nold's fluid  "straight." 

292.  Preserving  Out.— Silkworm  gut  will  keep 
nicely  if  laid  full  length  in  paper  slightly  oiled  and  the 
rolled  gut  and  paper  placed  in  chamois  skin. 

293.  Rusted   Gut.— When  gut  comes  in  contact 
with  the  hook  it  will  frequently  rust,  making  a  weak 
spot.     To  prevent  this  wrap  the  hook  first  with  silk  or 
thread  so  closely  that  when  the  gut  is  afterward  wrapped 
on  it  will  not  touch  the  hook. 

294.  Fractured    Gut.— Tests    made    by   "Piseco" 
demonstrated  that  when  a  length  of  gut  leader  has  been 
once  broken  by  a  strain  it  is  so  weakened  by  the  force  of 
the  strain  that  it  is  injured  through  its  entire  length,  and 
is  worthless  thereafter. 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  109 

295.  Soften    Silk   Out. — Soak  for  some  hours  in 
strong  vinegar. 

29O.  Soften  Siiells. — Snells  should  not  be  used  until 
softened,  the  same  as  a  leader. 

297.  Waterproofing  a  Linen  Line.— Saturate 
with  fine  paraffine  dissolved  in  pure  benzine.     It  will  be 
well  preserved  and  will  render  well  through  the  guides. 

298.  Waterproofing-  a  Silk  Line.— Soak  it  in 
boiled  linseed  oil,  and  strip  off  superfluous  residue  by 
drawing  the  line  through  the  thumb  and  finger.     Singe 
off  frayed  fibres. 

299.  Waterproofing  a  Silk  Line.— Take  2  parts 
boiled  linseed  oil  and  1  part  best  coach-body  varnish 
mixed  together  and  warmed  until  it  will  singe  a  feather. 
Soak  twice  and  rub  once,  the  mixture  being  at  a  tempera- 
ture not  exceeding  100"  Fahr.     Finish  and  polish  with 
paraffine  candle.—  H.  P.  Wells. 

300.  Kinking  Lines.— The  kink  in  a  line  can  be 
removed  by  dragging  it  at  full  length  for  some  time  in 
the  water  astern  of  a  boat. 

301.  Moths  in  Fly-Books.— Fly-books  should  be 
frequently  examined  to  see  that  no  moths  are  destroying 
them. 

302.  Preserving  a  Net. — To  preserve  a  landing 
net,  soak  it  thoroughly  in  linr-eed  oil;  shake  it,  and  hang 
up  in  the  sun  to  dry.     Shake  c  ff  the  drops  of  oil  as  they 
collect  on  the  net  until  it  is  dry. 

303.  Cork  Floats — With  a  sharp  knife  cut  a  lon- 
gitudinal slit  half  way  through  a  large  bottle  cork,  and 
draw  the  line  into  the  slit  tightly. 

304.  Sheet-Lead  Sinkers.— If  you  cany  with  you 
some  sheet-lead  you  can  always  make  a,  sinker  just  the 
weight  you  desire  by  wrapping  it  around  the  line. 


110  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

305.  Carry  a  File. — A  small  file  is  a  handy  tool  on 
a  fishing  excursion.     Many  fish  are  lost  because  the  point 
of  a  hook  is  dull. 

306.  Adjuncts  to  Fishing  Outfit.— Besides  a  file 
it  is  handy  to  have  a  small  hand  vise  to  hold  your  hook 
while  filing  its  points  or  while  wrapping  on  a  snood. 
Pliers  are  useful,  so  are  cutting  pliers  and  oil  for  reel  and 
swivels;  also  silk  for  wrapping,  wax  and  shellac. 

3O7-  Pocket  Minnow  Net. — Take  a  bung  or  round 
block  of  wood  of  2$  to  3  inches  in  diameter  and  bore  four 
holes  opposite  to  each  other  in  the  edge  of  it.  Then  insert 
a  piece  of  umbrella  rib,  about  12  to  14  inches  long,  in 
each  hole.  The  holes  must  be  made  deep  and  small 
enough  for  the  wire  to  fit  tight.  The  paragon  wire  is 
the  best.  Leave  the  end  of  the  rib  that  has  the  little  eye 
in  it  outside.  Lay  the  bung  and  wires  on  a  square  piece 
of  mosquito  netting  and  stretch  it  and  sew  it  firmly  at 
the  four  corners  to  the  eyes  in  the  ribs.  In  the  center  of 
the  bung  put  a  screw-eye,  and  in  the  center  of  the 
mosquito  net  sew  a  piece  of  string,  leaving  ends  about  8 
inches  long.  Any  straight,  stiff  stick  picked  up  on  the 
shore  serves  as  a  handle,  being  made  fast  to  the  net  by  a 
strong  piece  of  twine  through  the  screw-eye,  and  with  a 
piece  of  bread  tied  in  the  net  with  the  string,  and  per- 
haps a  small,  flat  stone  to  make  it  sink,  it  is  ready  to 
catch  minnows.  They  will  come  over  the  net  for  the 
bread.,  and  when  it  is  raised  up  quickly,  the  resistance  of 
the  water  causes  it  to  belly,  and  the  minnows  will  not 
get  out.  When'  bait  enough  has  been  taken,  pull  the 
wires  out  of  the  holes,  drop  the  bung  into  the  net  and 
roll  it  up  on  the  wires. — E.  A.  R. 

3O8.  Fishing  Baft.— Make  a  crib  of  pine  or  other 
light  wood  logs,  say  8  X 10  feet .  Cover  the  top  with  1-inch 
or  i-inch  boards.  Take  a  box  10  X  20  inches,  bore  small  holes 
in  the  bottom  and  sides;  nail  a  strip  on  each  side  of  the  box 
near  the  top  so  that  they  project  about  8  inches  beyond 


FISH  AND  FISHING. 


Ill 


the  box  on  both  sides.  Cut  a  hole  in  the  raft  the  size  of 
the  box,  put  in  the  box,  which  will  fill  with  water  and  rest 
on  the  strips.  Put  the  live  fish  in  the  box. 

3O1).  Live-Bait  Boat.— Make  top  and  bottom  pieces 
of  half-inch  pine.  Cut  an  opening  in  the  top  conforming 
to  the  shape  of  the  boat,  as  in  cut,  or  a  square  opening 
will  answer.  Connect  top  and  bottom  pieces  with  up- 


rights. Make  the  sides  of  one  piece  of  wire-cloth  nailed 
011  with  broad-headed  galvanized  nails.  Make  a  wire- 
cloth  door  for  the  top,  swinging  on  two  staples  for  hinges. 
A  hoop  and  staple  to  fasten  the  door  and  a  ring  in  the 
stem  piece  to  attach  the  tow-line  complete  the  boat. 

3 1C.  Permanent  Fish  Box.— When  camping  and 
desiring  to  save  the  biggest  fish  to  take  home,  have  some 
wire  screening  5  feet  wide,  drive  stakes  strongly  in  2  feet 
of  water,  put  the  screening  around  the  stakes  and  press 
it  into  the  sand  at  the  bottom  of  riven 


112  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

311.  Kill  Fish  when  Caught.— If  killed  as  soon 
as  caught  fish  will  keep  longer,  and  the  flesh  will  be 
better  than  that  of  those  allowed  to  die  slowly. 

312.  Killing-  Fish.— To  kill  a  fish  when  caught,  put 
the  thumb  into  the  gill  and  break  its  neck ;  or  hit  it  a  smart 
rap  on  the  back  just  behind  the  head  with  a  stick  or  knife 
handle. 

313.  Holding  a  Lively   Eel.— To  hang  on  to  a 
lively  eel  while  removing  the  hook  from  his  mouth,  grasp 
his  body  with  the  middle  finger  over  him  and  the  first 
and  third  fingers  under  him.     Press  upward  with  the 
first  and  third  fingers,  downward  with  the  middle  finger. 

314.  Skinning  Eels.— To  skin  an  eel,  rub  the  tail 
under  the  foot  until  the  skin  splits,  then  draw  the  skin 
off  over  the  head.     This  takes  out  all  the  fin  bones. 

315.  Skinning  Eels.— To  skin  an  eel,  roll  him  first 
in  ashes  or  dust  so  that  his  skin  won't  be  slippery.     Then 
cut  the  skin  around  the  neck  near  the  head,  make  a  lon- 
gitudinal slit  half  the  length  of  his  body,  and  grasping 
the  skin  firmly  near  the  head  peel  it  off  over  his  tail. 

316.  Comparative  Weights  of  Fly-Rod  Ma- 
terial.— Mr.  H.  P.  Wells  has  prepared  the  following 

table: 

Weight  of  one 
Material.  Specific  Gravity.     Cubic  Foot. 

Snakewood 1.3718  85.74 

Bethabara 1.2140  75.98 

Greenhoart 1.0908  68.18 

Lancewood ....1.0335  64.59 

Split-bamboo,  6- strip,  hexagonal, 

rind  outside O.S915  6196 

Split-bamboo,  4-strip,  rind  inside. .0.9678  60.49 

Iron  wood  (hornbeam) 0.8184  51.15 

Hickory 0 . 7963  49 . 78 

Ash..... 0.7780  48.66 

Mahoe O.GC07  41.29 

Cedar , 0.6306  39.98 


FISH  AND  FISHING. 


113 


317.  Size  and  Weight  of  Fish.— The  following 
table  gives  the  approximate  weights  of  certain  fish  ac- 
cording to  their  length: 


LENGTH. 

WEIGHT. 

Salmon. 

Trout. 

Grayling. 

Pike. 

Incbes. 
9 

Ibs.    oz. 

Ibs. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
1 
1 
1 

2 
2 
3 
3 

4 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8  - 
8 
9 
10 

oz. 
9  4 

6  4 

6  4 

4  2 

P 

15 

Ibs. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
2 
3 
3 
4 
4 
5 

oz. 

1 
5 

14U 
5 

2  2 

Ibs.    oz. 

0  ""% 
0       11 
0       13M 

1       13  4 

2         2 

6         ij| 
6       13. 
7         9 
8         6 
9         3% 

10      zy2 

12        *$| 
13         4U 
14        Til 

17        O4 
18         6 
20         0 

10        

11  
12..,...- 
13.  
14 

15  

16  
17 

18  .. 

19 

20      .... 

21 

22 

23  
24      

5  ""  6;4 
6         1H 

7       10M 

9         8 
10         8 

12       12}| 
14         0 
15         5J4 
16       12 
18         3 
19       12 
21         6^ 
23         2 
24       15^ 
26       14 
28       14^4 
31         0 
33         3% 
34         8J4 
37       15^4 

25  

26  
27  
28 

29     .. 

30... 

31... 

32    . 

33 

34  
35  
36  

37  .. 

38  .. 

39 

40    .. 

41  
42 

43  
44 

45  
48  

318.  Preserving  Trout.— Clean  and  wipe  dry. 
Sprinkle  corn  meal  on  the  inside.  Pack  in  meal  in  a 
tight  box. 


114 


FISH  AND  FISHING. 


319.  Size  and  Weight  of  Black  Bass.— Small 
fish  weigh  less  in  proportion  to  their  length  than  larger 
ones.     From   some  memoranda  the  following  table  of 
relative  lengths  and  weights  of  black  bass  has  been  pre- 
pared, the  lengths  being  from  nose  to  end  of  tail  fin: 

Weight. 
Length.  Lbs.       Oz. 

8  inches 8 

9  "   11 

9^  " 15 

10  "   ]  2 

10^  " '. 1  6 

11  " 1  8 

11^  "   1  12 

12  "   2 

13  "   2  4 

14  "   2  10 

14*4  "   3  2 

15  "   3  8 

320.  Size  and  Weight  of  Black  Bass.— List  of 
measurements  of  small-mouthed  black  bass,  taken  in  the 
month  of  May  (at  the  Bass  Islands,  Lake  Erie),  when  they 
are  in  prime  condition: 

Length.                     Girth.  Weight. 

12  inches 8  inches 1  pound   6  ounces. 

14  "      11       "      2 

15  "      llfcfc    "      2      '        14 

20       "      13       "      4 

20       "      14^    "      5 

321.  Fish  Lie  Preventive.— Carry  with  you  a 
small  scale  to  weigh  your  fish. 

322.  Preserving  Trout. — Trout  carefully  dressed 
may  be  preserved  several  days  fresh  and  sweet,  without 
ice  or  salt,  by  wrapping  them  in  the  long  white  moss 
found  in  the  swamps  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lakes  and 
streams  where  trout  are  caught,  and  placing  them  in  a 
cool  shady  place;  a  hole  in  the  ground  covered  over  with 
a  foot  or  more  of  earth  is  a  good  place. — Ferris, 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  115 

323.  Anglers'  Knots.— Bow- 
line Knot. — This  knot  is  used  in 
making  loops  in  the  ends  of  casting 
lines,  and  for  many  other  purposes 
where  a  knot  is  required  that  will 
not  slip. 

324.  A   Good  Knot   for    Casting    Lines.— Be 
sure  both  ends  of  each  knot  come  out  the  same  side  of 


the  loop,  and  that  one  knot  is  exactly  the  reverse  of  the 
other.  Make  each  knot  tight  and  pull  them  together  and 
nothing  can  make  it  slip. 

325.  How  to  make  a  Fly  Loop  in  a  Casting 
Line. — First  make  an  ordinary  slip  knot  in  the  line  and 
draw  it  tight.  Then  take  the  bight  of  the  line  close  to 


the  knot,  make  a  half  hitch  (2)  and  slip  it  over  the  slip 
knot  (1)  below  the  loop  and  tight  knot,  and  draw  tight. 
The  slip  knot  loop  will  not  the  a  draw  out  and  will  re- 
main the  size  required. 

326.  How  to  attach  the  Reel  Line 
to  the  Casting  Line.— When  this  knot  is 
drawn  tight  the  end  of  the  reel  line  should 
stick  out  about  -J-  inch.  To  untie  this  knot  pull 
the  short  end  of  the  reel  line  down  toward  the 
casting  line,  holding  the  reel  line  tight  until 
the  line  is  straight.  Then  slip  the  casting  line 
off  with  thumb  and  forefinger  nails. 


116  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

327.  How  to  attach  Flies  or  Lines.— (Fig.  I.} 
To  loosen  the  knot  push  the  loops  back  on  each  other 
first.  Another  method  easy  to  understand  from  the 
drawing  is  shown  in  Fig.  2.  Perhaps  the  best  of  all  is 


FIG.  l.  FIG.  2.  FIG.  3. 

that  of  passing  the  end  of  the  reel  line  up  through  the 
leader  loop,  then  bring  the  end  of  the  reel  line  back  on 
itself  and  tying  a  bow  knot.  When  drawn  taut  it  will  slip 
down  close  to  the  leader  loop  (Fig.  3)  and  stay  securely 
in  place.  A  jerk  on  the  loose  end  of  the  reel  line  frees  it 
at  once. 

328.  Out  Must  Never  be  Used  Dry.— Soak  it 
in  water  until  it  becomes  pliable  or  it  will  be  fracture  cU 

329.  Stocking  Trout  Streams.— Trout  eggs  must 
be  deposited  and  kept  in  a  current  of  water.     A  mere 
change  of  water  is  not  sufficient.     The  temperature  of 
the  water  should  not  be  above  50°  and  not  below  35°. 
They  will  hatch  in  45  to  50  days.   Put  the  eggs  in  shallow 
water  on  a  bed  of  gravel  which  is  kept  clean  and  bright 
by  the  current,  and  as  far  upstream  as  possible.     Trout 
will  thrive  in  water  which  never  rises  above  65°  or  70°  in 
temperature, 


FISH  AND  FISHING.  lit 

33O.  A  Fish  Stringer. — The  stringer  consists  of  a 
leather  strap,  to  which  are  attached  wire  enaps.  It  is 
used  as  follows:  The  leather  loop  is  passed  around  a  seat 
or  otherwise  made  fast  to  the  boat.  The  free  end  of 
the  stringer,  with  the  snaps  attached,  is  thrown  over- 


board. The  wire  loops  are  kept  on  an  extra  snap  in  the 
boat.  When  a  fish  is  taken  the  loop  hook  is  passed 
through  both  (remember  both)  lips  of  the  fish  and  the  end 
sprung  into  the  keeper.  The  fish  is  now  held  by  the  wire 
loop;  the  end  of  the  stringer  is  taken  from  the  water, 


118  FISH  AND  FISHING. 

the  loop-ring  placed  in  one  of  the  snaps,  and  the  fish, 
now  secured,  is  placed  in  the  water.  Thus  one  after 
another  may  be  added  to  the  string,  each  independent  of 
the  other.  When  wading,  the  stringer  and  wire  loops 
may  be  fastened  to  the  belt,  and  the  free  end  of  the 
stringer  allowed  to  trail  in  the  water. 

331.  Hooks.— The  Kirby  hook  is  bent  to  one  side  at 
the  curve  (Fig.  1).  The  Limerick  hooks  (Fig.  2)  are  of 
superior  temper.  The  O'Shaughnessy  (Fig.  3)  is  of  best 
temper,  carefully  made,  and  has  a  straighter  shank  with 


FIG.  1.  FIG.  2.  FIG.  3.  FIG.  4. 

less  "bulge"  at  the  curve  than  the  Limerick.  The  Sneck 
hook  (Fig.  4)  is  bent  much  like  the  letter  U  and  is  also 
bent  to  one  side  at  the  curve.  The  Limerick  and  the 
O'Shaughnessy  are  most  used  for  fly-tying. 

332.  Trout  Food. — Suspend  a  head  of  a  calf  or 
sheep  over  the  pond,  and  when  the  meat  becomes  ripe  in 
the  sun,  worms  will  drop  off. 

333.  Bleeding  Fish.—  Fish  bled  in  the  tail  bleed 
more  freely  and  die  quicker  than  when  bled  in  the  gills. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
CAMPING  AND  OUTING. 

334.  Wind  Indications.— When  objects  at  a  dis- 
tance, usually  indistinct,  loom  out  clear  and  distinct,  bad 
weather  and  changes  of  wind  are  coming.     Green-colored 
sky  means  unsettled  bad  weather  with  wind.     Where- 
ever  the  wind  is  at  the  vernal  equinox  (March  21  and 
thereabouts)  there  the  wind  will  prevail  for  the  next 
three  months.     Crows,  before  gales,  tumble  and  pitch  in 
the  air  and  croak  instead  of  the  usual  "caw."     Red 
tinged  clouds  high  up  at  evening  are  followed  by  wind. 

335.  Fair  Weather   Indications.— If   at  night 
there  are  few  stars,  and  those  very  bright  and  sparkling 
in  a  pale,  steely  sky.   If  swallows  fly  high.     If  just  before 
sunrise  the  sky  is  a  dull  gray  and  the  sun  rises  clear, 
gradually  dispersing  the  vapors.     If,  after  a  rainy  day, 
the  sunset  sky  is  suffused  with  a  magnificent  streak  of 
crimson  (not  copper  color).     If   there  is  a  rainbow  at 
night.     If  there  are  mists  at  evening  over  low-lying 
ground  or  near  a  river.      If  a  mist  in  the  morning  clears 
off  as  the  sun  gets  higher.      If  there  is  a  heavy  dew  in 
the  evening.     If,  after  a  rain,  drops  on  twigs  fall  and  the 
branches  dry  quickly. 

336.  Kaiii  Indications.— On  a  fine  day  if  dust 
suddenly  rises  in  a  revolving  spiral  column.     If  stars  are 
unusually  numerous  and  the  Milky  Way  very  clearly  de- 
fined, with  surrounding  sky  dark.     If  there  is  a  misty 


120  CAMPING  AND  OUTING. 

appearance  over  the  stars.  If  field  sparrows  wash  vigor- 
ously in  a  puddle.  If  the  woodpecker  (usually  a  silent 
bird)  becomes  uneasy  and  continually  cries  "yoo,  yoo — 
2/oo,  i/oo,  2/00."  If  domestic  fowls  keep  out  feeding  when 
rain  begins  to  fall  it  will  continue;  if  they  run  at  once  to 
shelter  it  will  be  a  short  shower.  If  flies  are  persistently 
troublesome,  look  out  for  thunder  as  well  as  rain.  If 
swallows  fly  close  to  the  ground.  If  before  sunrise  the 
sky  is  suffused  with  red  (except  in  frosty  weather).  If 
the  sun  late  in  the  day  shines  through  a  gray  watery 
haze  it  will  rain  during  the  night.  If  the  sun  at  setting 
has  a  tinted  halo  around  it.  If  the  moon  has  a  halo 
around  it,  especially  if  some  distance  from  it.  If  there 
is  a  rainbow  in  the  morning.  If  small  dark  clouds  float 
below  lighter  ones,  moving  faster  than  the  latter.  If  in 
the  morning  there  are  low-hanging,  smokelike  clouds.  If 
there  is  no  dew  in  the  morning.  If  after  a  rain  drops 
still  hang  on  the  twigs  instead  of  immediately  drying. 
Damp  stones  indicate  rain  or  heat. 

337.  Camp  Outfit. — Go  light  as  possible.  In  camp 
outfit,  be  governed  by  your  ability  to  carry  it.  I  have 
made  a  successful  and  entirely  satisfactory  expedition 
with  a  tin  cup  and  pocket  knife.  Meat  can  be  broiled  on 
a  stick.  Flour  can  be  transferred  into  a  dough  in  the 
hollow  of  a  clean  piece  of  bark  and  baked  on  a  flat  stone, 
a  chip  or  a  piece  of  bark,  before  the  fire,  but  a  cup  is 
positively  needed  for  the  coffee.  Under  such  circum- 
stances the  addition  of  a  frying-pan  enables  one  to  revel 
in  positive  luxury.  In  it  you  fry  your  meat,  bake  your 
bread,  and  can  make  your  coffee.  The  tin  cup  is  then 
superfluous.  After  the  necessities  add  anything  you 
want  and  can  carry.  In  provisions,  bread,  meat  and  cof- 
fee are  important,  though  not  indispensable.  It  is  more 
comfortable  to  have  them,  and  unless  you  are  a  first-rate 
rustler  it  is  quite  essential  that  you  have  plenty  of  some- 
thing.— W.  N.  B. 


CAMPING  AND  OUTING.  121 

338.  Clothing1  for  Camping1. — Felt  hat,   flannel 
shirt,  handkerchiefs,  easy  shoes,  hosiery,  overcoats  (rub- 
ber and  woolen),  rubber  boots,  stout  suit  of  clothes. 

339.  Cooking  Utensils  for  Camping.— Broiler, 

camp  stove  (not  necessary,  but  handy),  can  opener,  cof- 
fee pot,  forks,  frying-pan,  iron  pot,  knives,  pepper  box, 
spoons,  tin  cups,  tin  pails,  tin  plates,  water  pail. 

340.  Provisions  for    Camping.— Bacon,  butter, 
canned  goods,  coffee,  corn  meal,  crackers,  Dutch  cheese, 
eggs,  flour  (self-raising),  hard  tack  or  pilot  bread,  lard, 
lemons,  mustard,  oatmeal,  onions,  pepper,  pickles,  pota- 
toes, rice,  salt,  salt  pork,  sugar,  tea,  vinegar. 

341.  Miscellaneous  Articles  for  Camping1.— 

Bandages,  belt,  blacksmiths'  pliers,  blankets,  candles, 
cathartic  pills,  comb,  compass,  corkscrew,  court  plaster, 
fishing  tackle,  fly  repellent,  gimlet,  guns  and  equipments, 
hatchet,  Jamaica  ginger,  kerosene  oil,  knife,lantern, liquor 
(for  medicine),  map,  matches,  mirror,  mosquito  net,  nails, 
needles,  pins,  pipe,  postage  stamps,  rope,  salve,  saw, 
scissors,  soap,  tent,  thread,  tobacco,  tooth  brush,  towels, 
twine,  writing  materials. 

342.  Camp    Site.— Select  the  highest  and  dryest 
spot,  put  a  good  fire  on  the  swamp  side,  and,  if  possible, 
let  trees  intervene.     When  camping  in  a  tent,  dig  a 
trench  all  around  it  to  catch  the  rain  and  carry  it  away 
from  camp  instead  of  into  the  tent. 

343.  Camp-Fire.— We  first  felled  a  thrifty  butter- 
nut tree  10  inches  in  diameter,  cut  off  three  lengths  of 
5  feet  each,  and  carried  them  to  camp.     These  were  the 
back  logs.     Two  stout  stakes  were  driven  at  the  back  of 
the  fire,  and  the  logs,  on  top  of  each  other,  were  laid 
firmly  against  the  stakes.     The  latter  were  slanted  a  lit- 
tle back,  and  the  largest  log  placed  at  bottom,  the  small- 
est on  top,  to  prevent  tipping  forward.   A  couple  of  short, 
thick  sticks  were  laid  with  the  ends  against  the  bottom 


122  CAMPING  AND  OUTIN&. 

logs  by  way  of  fire  dogs;  a  fore  stick,  5  feet  long  and  5 
inches  in  diameter;  a  well-built  pyramid  of  bark,  knots 
and  small  logs  completed  the  camp-fire,  which  sent  a 
pleasant  glow  of  warmth  and  heat  to  the  furthest  corner 
of  the  shanty.  For  nightwood  we  cut  a  dozen  birch  and 
ash  poles  from  4  to  6  inches  across,  trimmed  them  to  the 
tips,  and  dragged  them  to  camp. — Nessmuk. 

344.  Care  of  Camp-Fires. — When  you  break  camp 
always  extinguish  the  camp-fire. 

345.  Shelter  for  the  Night. — He  is  a  poor  woods- 
man who  in  a  forest  of  any  kind  cannot  very  quickly 
provide  himself  with  shelter   from  rain  or  snow.      It 
may  be  of  palmetto  leaves,  of  branches  of  trees  or  of 
bark  from  the  trunk  of  a  tree.     The  favoring  trunk  of  a 
tree  may  keep  off  the  storm,  or  in  a  rocky  country  a 
shelter  can  often  be  found  under  a  projecting  ledge  or  in 
a  shallow  cave.     A  good  thing  always  to  carry  along  is 
a  rubber  poncho  for  each  person.     It  is  good  to  roll 
around  the  bedding,  when  en  route  to  protect  it  from  wet 
and  dirt;  or  to  put  over  one's  shoulders  when  traveling 
in  rain  or  wet  snow.     When  night  comes,  if  the  ground 
is  wet  and  the  heavens  dry,  spread  it  under  your  bed.    If 
the  reverse,  reverse  it.    With  two  small  stakes  at  oppo- 
site sides  of  a  bed  for  two,  to  support  two  corners  of  a 
poncho,  the  other  two  corners  being  stretched  backward 
and  held  to  the  ground  by  a  couple  of  stones  or  chunks 
of  wood,  a  very  good  shelter  is  provided  for  your  heads 
and  shoulders.     Then  another  poncho  spread  over  the 
blankets  to  your  feet,  and  you  two  can  sleep  blissfully 
through  any  ordinary  rainy  night.—  W.  N.  B. 

346.  Shed  Camp.— A  water-tight  camp  may  be 
made  of  fir  boughs,  or  even  hemlock,  by  making  the 
roof  steep,  and  lapping  the  boughs  en  thick,  in  courses, 
with  the  butt  up.     The  form  of  the  framework  may  be  in 
several  ways.     I  will  mention  only  two:    First,  cut  poles 


CAMPING  AND  OUTING.  122 

With  crotch  at  upper  end ,  10  or  12  feet  long,  say  six  or 
eight  of  them.  Stick  the  top  crotches  together,  and 
spread  the  bottoms  to  any  desired  diameter— according 
to  the  size  of  your  party — in  a  circle;  then  commence  to 
spread  on  the  boughs,  beginning  at  the  bottom,  and  care- 
fully and  thickly  lapping  them  to  the  top,  leaving  a 
parting  between  two  poles  for  a  door.  This  is  also  the 
Indian  method,  "and  is  called  a  wigwam.  Second,  cut 
two  poles  7  or  8  feet  long,  with  crotch  at  top.  Stick 
these  in  the  ground,  butt  down,  as  far  apart  as  you  wish 
the  length  of  your  camp  to  be;  say,  for  four  men,  make 
your  camp  10  feet  long,  and  more  or  less  according  to 
your  number.  The  two  corner  stakes  being  fixed ,  cut  a 
pole  reaching  from  one  to  the  other  for  a  ridge  pole,  then 
cut  shorter  poles  to  reach  from  your  ridge  pole  to  the 
ground,  and  put  them  n?ar  enough  together  to  hold  the 
covering,  be  it  boughs  or  bark. — J.  G.  Rich. 

34  7 .  Camp  Lodge. — Find  two  large  trees  far  enough 
apart  for  the  length  of  your  camp,  cut  notches  in  each  of 
the  trees  as  high  as  you  wish  your  ridge  pole  to  be,  say  7 
feet,  more  or  less.  Place  your  ridge  pole  in  these  notches, 
and  withe  it  solid  to  the  trees.  B3  sure  the  pole  is  stout 
enough;  then  roll  up  a  good  heavy  log  for  the  back  of 
your  camp.  Split  firs  or  cedar  trees  in  halves,  to  the  de- 
sired length,  and  place  them,  the  lower  end  on  the  log  at 
the  back  of  camp  and  upper  end  on  your  ridge  pole,  in 
the  following  manner:  Lay  two  half  logs  flat  side  up, 
and  another  flat  side  down,  lapping  on  each,  and  so  on 
over  the  whole.  Stand  splits  on  end  to  cover  end  of 
camp.  This  is  the  same  form  as  the  temporary  bough 
camp,  and  by  covering  two  together,  will  make  a  very 
durable,  tight  camp  for  winter  or  summer.  If  for  cold 
weather,  throw  on  plenty  of  green  boughs  over  the  splits, 
to  stop  all  air  holes.— J.  G.  Rich. 

348.  Sleeping1  Out. — When  outdoors  always  sleep 
on  the  earth  for  comfort.  Make  your  bed  there  as  com- 


124  CAMPING  AND  OUTINO. 

fortable  as  time  and  circumstances  will  permit.  If  the 
ground  is  cold,  or  wet,  or  covered  with  snow,  you  must 
provide  some  kind  of  a  foundation.  It  may  be  of  hay, 
straw,  weeds,  brush,  corn  stalks  or  fence  rails,  but  in  any 
event  stick  to  the  ground.  Don't  roost  on  a  perch  like  a 
chicken  and  get  every  breath  of  air  that  blows  and  chills 
you  from  every  side.  Balsam  fir  boughs  make  the  best 
bed  of  all  beds;  the  tips  broken  off  short  &nd  laid  shingle 
fashion,  bottom  side  up  from  head  to  foot.  All  the  firs, 
hemlock,  juniper,  cedar  and  pine  may  be  substituted  in 
the  order  named  as  to  choice.  Cherry,  willow,  alder  or 
any  such  shrubs  follow  next.  If  the  ground  is  smooth 
and  dry,  and  it  can  generally  be  so  found  in  this  western 
country,  it  is  plenty  good  enough.  Use  only  woolen 
blankets  for  bedding.  Under  any  circumstances,  when 
camping,  try  to  so  provide  yourself  as  to  sleep  warm,  and 
the  nearer  you  get  to  the  ground  the  easier  that  is 
accomplished. — W.  N.  B. 

349.  Sleeping*  Bag.— Mr.  C.  S.  Farnham,  a  well 
known  canoeist,  has  devised  for  camping  in  cold  weather 
a  sleeping  bag,  or  quilt  and  cover.  The  quilt,  when  ex- 
tended, is  nearly  heart-shaped,  being  7  feet  long  and  7 
feet  at  the  widest  part.  The  small  end  does  not  come 
quite  to  a  point,  but  an  oval  end  piece  is  sewn  in.  The 
quilt  is  made  of  silk  or  silesia,  stuffed  with  2J  pounds  of 
down,  evenly  quilted  in,  the  edges  being  strengthened 
with  a  binding  of  tape.  Around  the  edges  are  buttons 
and  button-holes,  by  which  the  quilt  may  be  converted 
into  a  closed  bag,  in  which  a  man  may  sleep  warmly  in 
the  coldest  weather.  A  cover  of  the  same  shape  is  made 
of  fine  muslin,  coated  with  boiled  oil,  and  being  provided 
with  button-holes,  may  be  buttoned  closely,  keeping 
off  entirely  the  dampness  of  the  ground  or  even  rain.  The 
entire  weight  of  the  quilt  is  4£  pounds,  and  of  oiled  cover 
2  pounds  6  ounces,  and  both  may  be  rolled  into  a  very 
small  bundle  for  stowage.  The  amount  of  covering  may 


CAMPING  AND  OUTING. 


125 


be  regulated  to  suit  the  weather,  the  camper  sleeping 
with  either  oiled  cover,  quilt,  or  both  over  him,  or  if  very 
cold,  rolling  up  in  both. 

35O.  Mosquito-Proof  Tent.— The  top  is  formed 
with  a  liglit  hoop,  about  2  feet  in  diameter,  covered  with 
muslin  like  the  head  of  a  drum.  Two  strong  pieces  of 
tape  are  sewn  from  side  to  side  of  the  hoop,  crossing  each 
other  at  right  angles,  and  at  the  center  where  they  meet  is 


attached  a  thin  rope  about  10  feet  long.  To  the  muslin 
at  the  rini  of  the  hoop  is  sewn  a  quantity  of  coarse  cheese- 
cloth or  "tarletan,"  descending  so  as  to  form  a  bell  6  feet 
in  height  and  8  feet  in  diameter  at  the  ground.  Around 
the  lower  edge,  at  intervals  of  2  feet,  are  small  tape  loops 
for  pegging  out  wide  when  two  or  three  people  wish  to 
sit  inside.  The  whole  article  weighs  only  about  2  pounds, 
and  can  be  folded  flat  so  as  to  go  inside  a  bag  when  travel- 
ing. When  required  for  use  the  rope  at  the  top  is  thrown 
across  the  branch  of  a  tree  and  drawn  up  just  enough  to 


126  CAMPING  AND  OUTING. 

let  the  lower  edge  of  the  cheesecloth  or  "  tar letan"  rest  on 
the  ground.  Danger  from  fire  can  be  avoided  by  soaking 
the  screen  in  a  solution  of  tungstate  of  sodium. — J.  J.  M. 

351.  Camp  Spring  Bed. — Take  coarse  cloth  6  feet 
or  7  feet  square.     Sew  the  edges  together.     Place  two 
logs,  10  or  12  inches  in  diameter,  on  the  ground  7  or  8 
feet  apart.     Cut  two  poles  10  or  12  feet  long;  pass  them 
through  the  cloth  and  let  them  rest  on  the  logs.    Cut 
notches  in  the  logs  to  keep  the  poles  apart  and  at  a  suf- 
ficient distance  to  keep  the  cloth  stretched  to  its  fullest 
width.     Stuff  the  cloth  bag  with  leaves,  grass  or  browse, 
and  you  have  a  soft  spring  bed. 

352.  Head  Mosquito  Net. — Make  some  tarletan 
into  the  shape  of  a  bag,  open  at  both  ends,  from  15  to  18 
inches  long  and  2  to  2|  feet  in  circumference.     A  piece 
of  fine  elastic  cord  is  run  in  the  hem  at  the  top  to  clasp 
the  body  of  the  hat,  while  a  similar  cord  in  the  hem  at 
the  bottom  secures  it  around  the  neck.      The  hat  rim 
keeps  it  out  of  the  face.     If  a  low-crowned  hat  is  worn 
the  bag  may  be  closed  at  the  upper  end. 

353.  Mosquito  Gauntlets.— Sew  linen  cloth  cuffs 
to  the  wrists  of  a  pair  of  gloves,  and  run  an  elastic  cord 
in  the  hem  at  the  top  of  the  cuff  to  clasp  the  arm  under- 
neath the  coat  sleeve. 

354.  Insect  Dope. — Make  a  preparation  of  Bounces 
sweet  oil  and  1  ounce  carbolic  acid.    Let  it  be  thoroughly 
applied  upon  hands,  face,  and  all  exposed  parts  (carefully 
avoiding  the  eyes)  once  every  half  hour,  when  the  flies 
are  troublesome,  or  for  the  first  two  or  three  days,  until 
the  skin  is  filled  with  it,  and  after  this  its  application 
will  be  necessary  only  occasionally.     Another  receipt, 
equally  as  efficacious,  is:     Six  parts  sweet  oil,  1  part 
creosote,  1  part  pennyroyal. 

355.  Insect  Repellent.— Simmer  together  over  a 
slow  fire  3  ounces  pine  tar,  2  ounces  cantor  oil,  1  ounce 


CAMPING  AND  OUTING.  121 

pennyroyal  oil,  and  bottle  for  use.  Rub  it  in  thoroughly 
at  first,  and  replenish  it  on  the  exposed  skin  from  day  to 
day.— Nessmuk. 

356.  Mosquito  Smudge. — Evaporate  a  piece  of 
gum  camphor,  one-third  the  size  of  an  egg,  in  the  tent  or 
room  by  placing  it  in  a  tin  vessel  and  holding  it  over  a 
candle  or  other  flame,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  take 
fire. 

35  7.  Mosquito  Smudge. — From  the  side  of  a  fallen 
cedar  log,  dry  but  not  rotten,  cut  strips  of  bark  about  6 
feet  long,  enough  to  make  a  bundle  a  little  larger  than 
two  hands  can  span.  From  the  white  inner  bark  of  a 
growing  cedar  tree  make  long,  pliable  strips,  with  which 
bind  the  dead  bark  at  intervals  of  9  inches  into  a  com- 
pact mass.  Ignite  one  end  of  this  and  leave  it  to  smudge 
in  the  tent  like  a  cigar.  The  smoke  is  fragrant  and 
agreeable.  When  the  mosquitoes  are  routed  let  the 
smudge  remain  all  night  at  the  tent  door  and  none  will 
enter. 

358.  Fire  for  Cooking. — Start  it  with  fine  kindling 
and  clean,  dry  hemlock  bark.     When  you  have  a  bright, 
even  fire  from  end  to  end  of  the  space,  keep  it  up  with 
small  fagots  of  the  sweetest  and  most  wholesome  woods 
in  the  forest.     These  are,  in  the  order  named,  black 
birch,  hickory,  sugar  maple,  yellow  birch  and  red  beech. 
The  sticks  should  be  short  and  not  over  2  inches  across. 
Split  wood  is  better  than  round.     The  outdoor  range  can 
be  made  by  one  man  in  little  more  than  an  hour,  and  the 
camper-out  who  once  tries  it  will  never  wish  to  see  a 
"portable  camp  stove"  again. — Nessmuk. 

359.  Camp   Cooking   Range.— Two  logs  6  feet 
long  and  8  inches  thick  are  laid  parallel,  but  7  inches 
apart  at  one  end  and  only  4  at  the  other.     They  are 
bedded  firmly  and  flattened  a  little  on  the  inside.     On  the 
upper  sides  the  logs  are  carefully  hewed  and  leveled 


128  CAMPING  AND  OUTING. 

until  pots,  pans  and  kettles  will  sit  firmly  and  evenly  on 
them.  A  strong  forked  stake  is  driven  at  each  end  of  the 
space,  and  a  cross-pole,  2  or  3  inches  thick,  laid  on,  for 
hanging  kettles.  The  broad  end  of  the  space  is  for  frying- 
pans  and  the  potato  kettle.  The  narrow  end,  for  coffee- 
pots and  utensils  of  lesser  diameter.  From  six  to  eight 
dishes  can  be  cooked  at  the  same  time.  Soups,  stews, 
and  beans  are  to  be  cooked  in  closely  covered  kettles  hung 
from  the  cross-pole,  the  bottoms  of  the  kettles  reaching 
within  some  2  inches  of  the  logs.  With  a  moderate  fire 
they  may  be  left  to  simmer  for  hours  without  care  or 
attention .  — Nessmulc. 

36O.  Camp  Stove. — A  camp  stove  is  wholly  unneces- 
sary, but  some  people  will  use  them.  One  kind  is  made 
with  an  elliptic  base  of  sheet  iron  12  inches  high  and  14 
long  and  7  inches  wide.  It  has  no  bottom,  the  fire  being 
built  on  the  ground  and  the  stove  set  over  it  as  soon  as 
fairly  ignited.  In  front  a  5-inch  door  allows  for  feeding 
and  draft.  The  top  has  a  6-inch  hole  to  receive  kettle  or 
pan,  and  a  funnel  12  inches  high  and  3£  inches  in  diameter 
at  the  rear  conducts  off  the  smoke.  An  improvement 
upon  this  is  a  large  sheet-iron  cylinder  about  10  to  12 
inches  in  diameter  and  the  same  in  length,  open  at  both 
ends.  Across  one  end  are  stretched  several  stiff  wires 
upon  which  rest  the  cooking  utensils.  At  the  other  end, 
which  is  the  bottom  when  used  as  a  stove,  an  opening 
about  6x7  inches  from  the  bottom  edge  is  cut  to  serve  as 
a  door  and  draft.  At  the  same  end,  opposite  the  door, 
another  small  opening  is  cut  to  give  a  draft  to  the  other 
side.  When  not  used  as  a  stove  it  is  reversed,  the  wires 
serving  as  a  bottom  enables  it  to  hold  all  the  utensils, 
plates,  etc.,  as  a  bucket,  and  a  wire  handle  being  fitted  to 
the  bottom  for  that  purpose. 

3O1.  Oil  Stoves. — The  best  oil  stove  for  use  in  camp 
is  the  small,  single-wick  handy  stove  with  large,  heavy 
reservoir  and  handle  for  lifting.  Three  of  these  are  pref- 


CAMPING  AND  OUTING.  129 

erable  to  one  big,  clumsy  stove.     An  oil  stove  should 
never  be  used  when  wood  can  be  obtained. 

3G2.  Folding  Cooking-  Range.—  A  sort  of  fold- 
ing gridiron  is  used  instead  of  the  camp  cooking  range 
described  above.  It  is  not  so  serviceable,  but  quicker  to 
set  up.  The  ends  are  of  half  round  or  flat  iron  8  inches 
long.  Each  has  four  holes  drilled  in  it  for  the  cross  bars  of 
i\  inch  wire,  which  are  riveted  in.  The  legs  are 


round  iron,  6  inches  long,  the  upper  ends  being  flattened 
down  and  turned  over  to  fit  on  wire  staples.  These 
staples  pass  through  holes  in  the  end  pieces  of  the  grid- 
iron, and  are  riveted  fast.  When  in  use  the  fire  is  made 
and  allowed  to  burn  down  to  a  mass  of  hot  coals,  then 
the  legs  of  the  gridiron  are  opened  and  stuck  in  the 
ground  over  it,  making  a  level  framework,  on  which 
coffee  pot,  pails  and  pans  will  rest  without  danger  of 
upsetting.  When  not  in  use,  the  legs  are  folded  down 
and  the  gridiron  stowed  in  a  canvas  bag. 

363.  Alcohol  Stoves. — The  flamme  force  alcohol 
stove  is  the  best.  It  takes  up  a  little  more  room  than  the 
4 'pocket"  variety,  and  it  does  not  give  more  heat;  but  it 
burns  for  a  longer  time  and  is  not  top-heavy  when  a 
heavy  pot  or  pan  is  set  on  it.  Three  of  these  stoves  set 
side  by  side  will  answer  for  cooking  in  large  utensils. 

3O4.  Camp  Oven. — "Dutch  ovens"  or  bake  kettles 
are  used  for  camp  baking  where  there  is  a  large  party. 
For  a  small  party  an  oven  can  be  made  of  two  deep  tin 
(sheet-iron  is  better)  basins,  one  of  which  has  "ears" 


130  CAMPING  AND  OUTING. 

riveted  to  its  rim,  so  that  when  it  is  placed  bottom  up  on 
the  other  the  ears  will  spring  over  the  rim  of  the  second 
basin,  thus  making  an  oven  that  is  not  air-tight,  allow- 
ing gases  to  escape. 

365.  Coffee.— Six  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  browned 
and  ground  coffee  in  a  pot,  and  3  pints  of  cold  water. 
Bring  it  to  a  boil  and  then  set  it  aside  for  5  minutes, 
when  ready  to  use  drip  in  half  a  cup  of  cold  water  to 
settle  it. 

366.  Tea. — Bring  water  to  a  boil,  then  put  in  the  tea, 
a  teaspoonful  for  every  cup  and  one  "for  the  pot."    Then 
let  it  simmer,  but  not  boil  for  5  minutes. — Seneca. 

367.  Fried  Salt  Pork  (or  Bacon).— Slice  thin, 
put  in  frying-pan  with  cold  water  enough  to  cover,  let  it 

.come  to  a  boil  and  boil  two  or  three  minutes;  then  turn 
off  the  water  and  fry  brown  on  both  sides. — Seneca. 

368.  Broiling  Small  Fish.— Clean  them  and  fasten 
them  by  the  head  to  a  slender,  flexible,  birch  branch. 
Stick  the  other  end  of  the  branch  into  the  ground  at  an 
angle  that  will  allow  the  fish  to  hang  just  in  front  of  the 
fire,  where  it  can  get  the  most  heaf.     Put  a  piece  of  pork 
on  the  head,  so  that  the  pork  fat  will  run  down  and  baste 
the  fish.    Turn  and  watch  it  carefully  that  it  may  be 
cooked  evenly.    Serve  and  eat  at  once.     Beefsteak  and 
mutton  chops  may  be  cooked  the  same  way.     Of  course, 
the  blaze  must  be  clear,  and  the  meat  must  be  at  a  dis- 
tance to  get  the  most  intense  heat  without  any  smoke. 

369.  Fried  Fish. — Small  fish  may  be  fried  whole, 
but  large  ones  should  be  cut  up.    Have  enough  pork  fat 
or  lard  bubbling  hot  in  the  frying-pan  to  well  cover  the 
fish.     Smear  the  fish  well  with  dry  corn  meal  or  flour,  or 
what  is  better,  dip  it  into  a  well  beaten  egg  and  then  into 
bread  or  cracker  crumbs,  and  fry  both  sides  to  a  clear 
brown.    Sprinkle  lightly  with  pepper  and  salt  just  as  it 
is  turning  brown. — Seneca. 


CAMPING  AND  OUTING.  131 

370.  Planked  Fisli.—  Any  "flat"    fish    may  be 
"planked."    Cut  off  head  and  tail,  split  open  the  back, 
but  do  not  cut  clear  through  the  belly,  leaving  the  fish  so 
that  it  may  be  opened  wide  like  a  book  and  tacked  on  a 
plank  or  piece  of  bark.    Tack  some  thin  slices  of  bacon  or 
pork  to  the  end  of  the  fish  that  will  be  uppermost  when 
before  the  fire.    Sharpen  one  end  of  the  plank  and  drive 
it  into  the  ground  before  a  bed  of  hot  coals.     Catch  the 
drippings  in  a  tin  cup  or  large  spoon  and  baste  the  fish 
continually  until  it  smells  so  good  you  can't  wait  another 
instant  to  eat  it.    It  is  then  done. — Seneca. 

371.  Clam  Chowder.— Fry  five  or  six  slices  of  fat 
pork  crisp,  and  chop  to  pieces.     Sprinkle  in  the  bottom 
of  pot;  lay  upon  them  a  stratum  of  clams,  which  sprinkle 
with  cayenne  or  black  pepper  and  salt,  and  scatter  bits  of 
butter  over  all.     Next,  have  a  layer  of  chopped  onions, 
then  one  of  small  crackers  split  and  moistened  with  warm 
milk.     On  them  pour  a  little  of  the  fat  left  after  frying 
the  pork.     Next  comes  a  new  layer  of  pork,  then  one  of 
clams,  etc.,  as  before.     Proceed  until  the  pot  is  nearly 
full,  when  cover  with  water  and  stew  slowly — the  pot 
being  closely  covered — for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Now  drain  off  all  the  liquor,  and  then  empty  the  remain- 
ing contents  into  a  tureen.     Return  the  gravy  io  the  pot, 
and  thicken  with  flour  or  finely  rolled  crackers;  add  a 
glass  of  claret  or  sherry,  a  spoonful  of  catsup,  one  of 
Worcestershire  sauce,  and  boil  up,  when  pour  over  the 
chowder. 

372.  Stewed  Game. — Ducks,  rabbits,  in  fact  all 
kinds  of  game  may  be  stewed.     Cut  them  into  small 
pieces  after  cleaning,  and  put   into  a  pot  containing 
enough  cold  water  to  a  little  more  than  cover  them.    A 
minced  onion,  small  pieces  of  salt  pork,  vegetables,  etc., 
may  be  added.     Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  the 
pot  and  let  it  simmer  until  the  flesh  can  be  easily  pierced 
with  a  sharp  sliver. — Seneca. 


132  CAMPING  AND  OUTING. 

373.  Roastiug  Small  Game. — Squirrels,   birds, 
etc.,  may  be  roasted  on  a  stick  before  a  fire  of  piping  hot 
coals.     Clean  the  game,  impale  it  on  a  stick  with  a  piece 
of  fat  pork,  and  set  the  stick  in  the  ground  before  the 
coals.     Turn  frequently  and  baste  with  the  drippings, 
which  should  be  caught  in  a  cup  or  large  spoon.     When 
a  sharp  sliver  will  easily  go  into  the  breast  they  are  done. 
Pigeons,  squirrels,  hares  or  rabbits,  ducks  and  grouse 
should  be  parboiled  before  roasting. — Seneca. 

374.  Pork  and  Beans.— Two  quarts  of  beans  to  3 
pounds  of  pork.    Pick  over  the  beans  at  night,  wash,  and 
soak  in  cold  water  until  next  morning.     If  only  boiled 
pork  and  beans  are  desired,  drain  the  beans  and  put  them 
with  the  pork  in  the  pot,  just  cover  with  cold  water,  set 
over  the  fire  with  the  cover  on  the  pot  and  boil  slowly 
till  the  beans  are  tender,  skimming  the  scum  off  as  it 
rises.     If  baked  beans  are  wanted,  parboil  the  pork  and 
cut  it  into  thin  slices,  then  drain  the  beans  and  boil  as 
above.     Put  half  of  the  beans  into  the  bake  kettle,  then 
the  pork,  then  the  rest  of  the  beans,  and  pour  over  them 
a  half-pint  boiling  water.     Bake  until  the  top  is  crusted 
brown.—  Seneca. 

375.  Vegetables. — All  vegetables  must  be  carefully 
looked  over,  the  unripe  or  decayed  parts  removed,  and 
then  they  must  be  washed  in  cold  water.    When  to  be 
boiled  they  should  be  put  in  boiling  salted  water,  and  if 
the  water  has  to  be  replenished  before  the  cooking  is 
complete,  boiling  water  should  always  be  used.     Keep 
the  vessel  covered,  and  drain  the  vegetables  as  soon  as 
done.     Do  not  let  the  water  boil  long  before  the  vege- 
tables are  put  in.     Old  and  strong  vegetables  sometimes 
require  boiling  in  two  or  more  waters.     Always  cut  the 
largest  vegetables,  so  that  all  will  be  of  nearly  the  same 
size  and  cook  evenly. — Seneca. 

376.  Time  Table  for  Cooking  Vegetables.— 

Potatoes,  old,  boiled  30rnin. ;  potatoes,  new,  baked 45 rnin.; 


VAMPING  AND  OUTING.  133 

potatoes,  new,  boiled  20  rain. ;  sweet  potatoes  boiled, 
45min.;  sweet  potatoes  baked,  Ihr. ;  squash  boiled,  25 
min.;  squash  baked,  45min.;  shell  beans  boiled,  Ihr.; 
green  peas  boiled,  20  to  40 min.;  string  beans  boiled,  1  to 
2  hrs. ;  green  corn,  25  min.  to  1  hr. ;  asparagus,  15  to  30  min. ; 
spinach,  1  to  2 hrs.;  tomatoes,  fresh,  Ihr.;  tomatoes, 
canned,  30 rain.;  cabbage,  45 min.  to  2 hrs.;  cauliflower, 
1  to  2  hrs. ;  dandelions,  2  to  3  hrs. ;  beet  greens,  1  hr. ;  onions, 
1  to  2  hrs. ;  beets,  1  to  5  hrs. ;  turnips,  white,  45  min.  to  1  hr. ; 
turnips,  yellow,  1-J  to  2 hrs. ;  parsnips,  1  to  2  his.;  carrots, 
1  to  2  hrs.  If  a  piece  of  lean  salt  pork  is  boiled  with  some 
of  the  above,  they  will  be  sufficiently  seasoned.  If  net, 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter. — Seneca. 

377.  Roast  Potatoes.— Scoop  out  a  hole  among 
the  ashes  at  the  edge  of  the  fire,  fill  it  with  coals  and 
keep  it  hot  for  half  an  hour.     Then  clean  out  the  coals, 
put  in  potatoes  and  cover  them  over  with  hot  ashes  with 
a  brisk  fire  on  top.    In  40  minutes  try  to  stick  a  sliver 
into  them.     If  it  goes  in  easy  they  are  done. 

378.  Commeal  Mush. — To  avoid  lumps  mix  the 
meal  first  with  enough  cold  water  to  make  a  thin  batter 
and  then  pour  this  batter  into  the  pot  of  boiling  water 
(slightly  salted)  very  gradually,  so  as  not  to  stop  the  boil- 
ing process.     Stir  it  in  and  boil  (constantly  stirring)  until 
it  will  hang  well  together  when  taken  out  with  a  spoon. 
When  it  is  cold  it  is  excellent  fried  in  boiling  pork  fat  or 
butter.— Seneca. 

379.  Johnny  cake.— Make  a  thick  batter  by  mixing 
warm  (not  scalding)  water  or  milk  with  one  pint  of  corn- 
meal,  and  mix  in  with  this  a  small  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  a  tablespocnful  of  melted  lard.     Grease  the  bake  tins, 
described  in  hint  No.  364,  thoroughly  with  lard  or  butter, 
set  the  batter  in  one,  cover  over  with  the  other,  and  bury 
the  oven  among  the  hot  coals,  heaping  them  around  it, 
so  as  to  have  an  equal  heat  on  all  sides.     In  30  minutes 
it  should  be  done. — Seneca. 


184  CAMPING  AND  OUTING. 

380.  Slapjacks. — The  frying-pan  must  be  perfectly 
clean  and  smooth  inside.    Scrape  it  after  each  panful  is 
cooked  and  then  only  occasional  greasing  will  be  re- 
quired, which  is  best  done  with  a  clean  rag  wrapped 
around  a  piece  of  butter.    The  batter  should  be  very  thin 
and  disturbed  as  little  as  possible.     When  it  is  cooked 
firm  on  one  side,  turn  it.     Johnnycake  batter  thinned 
down  will  make  slapjacks,  or  wheat  flour  batter  prepared 
the  same  way. 

381.  Maryland  Biscuit. — Take  one  quart  of  flour, 
one  tablespoonful  of  lard,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  enough 
water— or  half  water  and  half  milk,  if  you  can  get  it — 
to  make  a  stiff  dough.    Mix  thoroughly,  and  then  beat 
with  an  axe  or  club  for  half  an  hour,  or  until  the  dough 
becomes  light  and  elastic.     Any  smooth,  thick  board,  or 
a  smooth  stump  or  log,  will  answer  to  beat  the  dough  on. 
Then  mould  the  dough  with  the  hands  or  cut  with  a  tin 
box  lid  into  biscuits  \ -inch  thick  and  2  inches  across. 
Puncture  the  top  of  each  biscuit  several  times  with  a  fork 
and  put  them  in  a  Dutch  oven  and  bake  with  a  mode- 
rately hot  fire,  as  any  other  bread  should  be  baked  in 
camp. — ElJcridge. 

382.  Fish-eating  Ducks.— These  ducks  may  be 
made  palatable  by  parboiling  them  in  water  with  an 
onion  in  it.     After  parboiling  them  discard  the  onion  and 
lay  the  ducks  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour,  after  which 
they  may  be  roasted,  broiled,  fried  or  stewed. — Seneca. 

383.  Frozen  Fish. — Soak  frozen  fish  in  cold  water 
to  thaw  them  before  cooking, 

384.  Jerked  Venison.— Jerked  venison  is  the  flesh 
of  the  deer  cut  into  thin  slices  and  dried,  usually  with- 
out salt,  in  the  heat  of  the  sun  or  over  a  fire, 

385.  Baking1  Powder. — Follow  the  directions  on 
the  cans  as  to  quantity. 


CAMPING  AND  OUTING.  185 

386.  Canned.  Soups.— Always  follow  implicitly  the 
directions  for  cooking  printed  on  the  cans. 

387.  Canned  G-oods. — Don't  cook  canned  goods  in 
the  original  can,  and  thus  avoid  lead  poisoning. 

388.  Butter  in  Camp.— Put  butter  in  a  fruit  jar 
with  water-tight  top,  and  when  in  camp  put  the  jar  in  a 
net,  tie  a  cord  to  the  latter,  and  sink  it  to  the  bottom  of  a 
cold  spring,  river  or  lake.— Seneca. 

389.  Rusty  Knives. — If  knives  become  rusty,  rub 
them  with  a  fresh-cut  raw  potato  dipped  in  ashes. — 
Seneca. 

390.  Cleaning    Cutlery. — To    scour    knives   and 
forks  stick  them  into  the 'earth. 

391.  Washing   Dishes.— Pour  boiling  water  into 
the  dirtiest  dishes  and  let  it  stand  awhile.     Put  the  other 
dishes  into  the  largest  pail,  pour  hot  water  over  them, 
tone  it  down  with  cold  water  so  you  can  handle  them, 
and  wash  the  dishes,  the  least  dirty  first,  with  a  sponge, 
using  soap.     Rinse  in  cold  water,  drain  and  dry  with 
a  towel.     Wring  out  the  sponge  in  clean  water  and  hang 
it  on  a  bush  ready  for  use  again.— Seneca. 

392.  Rubber    Cement. —  Pure    India    rubber    4 
ounces,  powdered  asphaltum  $  ounce.     Put  in  a  tin  can 
and  add  six  times  the  amount  of  benzine.     Let  it  stand 
three  or  four  days,  then  work  it  with  a  stick  and  add 
benzine,  stirring  well  until  it  is  of  the  consistency  of 
honey.     It  should  always  be  covered,  except  when  stir- 
ring.   To  use  it  scrape  the  polish  from  the  rubber,  then 
apply  the  cement  to  both  patch  and  boat  or  garment. 
Dry  one-half  hour,  then  apply  another  coat  and  press  on 
the  patch.     Keep  it  away  from  the  fire,  it  is  explosive. 

393.  Rubber    Cement. — One-half  pound  bisulph. 
of  carbon,  three  handfuls  of  gutta  percha;  put  in  a  wide- 
mouthed  bottle;  shake  frequently;  at  the  end  of  two 


136  CAMPING  AND  OUTING. 

weeks  strain  through  a  cloth,  return  to  bottle  and  cork 
tightly,  for  reasons  that  will  be  obvious.  To  apply,  first 
dry  the  article,  then  smear  the  cement  on  and  allow  it  to 
evaporate  before  bringing  edges  together.  After  it  has 
become  light-colored  in  spots,  warm  and  bring  edges  per- 
fectly together;  stand  away  for  a  while  and  the  job  is 
complete. — Joseph  C.  Grubb. 

394.  Mildewed  Tents. — To  remove  mildew  white- 
wash the  tent  with  a  weak  solution  of  chloride  of  lime. 
Add  salt  to  make  it  stick.    A  strong  solution  will  rot  the 
cloth.     Two  pounds  of  slacked  lime  to  a  barrel  of  soft 
water  is  the  right  proportion. 

395.  Waterproofing   Tents. — Dissolve  -£  pound 
each  of  sugar  of  lead  and  powdered  alum  in  a  bucket  of 
rain  water,  and  pour  the  solution  into  a  large  tub.     Soak 
your  tent  for  twenty- four  hours,  and  then  hang  it  up  to 
dry  instead  of  wringing  it  dry.     Rain  will  hang  to  it  in 
globules,  but  won't  go  through  the  cloth.     It  will  also 
prevent  mildew. 

396.  Waterproofing  L<iiien. — Take  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  alumina  in  ten  times  its  weight  of  water,  and 
a  soap  bath  of  the  following  composition:    One  part  of 
light  colored  resin  and  one  part  of  crystallized  soda  (sal 
soda)  and  boiled  in  ten  parts  of  water  until  dissolved. 
The  resin  soap  is  precipitated  with  half  part  of  table  salt, 
and  is  subsequently  dissolved  along  with  one  part  of  white 
curd  soap  in  thirty  parts  of  hot  water.     It  should  be  put 
in  wooden  tubs  for  use.      On  made  up  articles  the  two 
solutions  can  be  applied  with  a  brush  and  then  rinsed  off. 

397.  Waterproof  for  Leather. — Melt  together  1 
pound  tallow,  £  ounce  neatsfoot  oil,  1  ounce  resin,  Bounce 
lampblack  and  1  tablespoonful  linseed  oil. 

398.  Waterproof  for    Boots.  — Melt  together  6 
ounces  mutton  suet,  6  ounces  beeswax  and  4  ounces  resin, 
and  add  1  pint  linseed  oil. 


CAMPING  AND  OUTING.  137 

399.  Waterproof  for  Cordage  Fabrics. — Take 
of  pulverized  potash  alum  and  crushed  acetate  of  lead, 
each  20  parts,  bicarbonate  of  potassium  and  Glauber's 
salt,  each  12  parts,  and  pour  over  this  mixture  3, 000  parts 
of  soft  water,  all  by  weight.     Also  dissolve  separately  in 
an  equal  quantity  of  water  9  parts  of  oleine  soap,  and 
then  mix  both  solutions.     The  articles  are  left  in  this 
solution  until  thoroughly  saturated,  allowed  to  drain, 
dried,  brushed,  and  finally  pressed.     For  linen,  leather 
and  wood  add  margarine,  6  parts,  and  for  cotton  or  paper 
some  gelatine,  3  parts,  and  resin,  6  parts.     Impregnation 
with  this  preparation,  it  is  claimed,  does  not  injure  the 
colors.     Alum  and  sugar  of  lead  alone,  or  alum  and 
caoutchouc,  can  be  used  for  the  same  purpose. 

400.  Waterproof    Bags.— Make    them    of     un- 
bleached muslin,  sewn  in  a  lap  seam,  with  a  double  row 
of  stitches.     When  sewn  they  are  dipped  in  water  and 
slightly  shaken  to  remove  the  drops,  and  then,  while  wet, 
a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  boiled  oil,  raw  oil  and  turpen- 
tine is  applied  to  the  outside  with  a  brush.     This  takes  a 
week  to  become  thoroughly  dry,  and  then  another  coat  is 
put  on  without  dampening  the  cloth,  and  if  a  little  liquid 
drier  is  added  to  the  mixture  this  coat  will  dry  in  four  or 
five  days.    They  can  be  made  in  all  sizes,  being  closed  at 
the  mouth  with  a  draw-string,  and  are  excellent  recep- 
tacles for  various  articles  of  food,  sugar,  coffee,  bread, 
etc.,  and  for  clothing  and  blankets. — Tonic. 

401.  Handy  Tool.— Have  a  pair  of  blacksmith's 
pliers  12  to  18  inches  long.     It  is  a  good  poker  for  the 
fire,  a  gripper  for  the  handleless  frying-pan  and  hot 
dishes  of  all  kinds,  can  be  used  as  a  hammer,  a  wrench, 
and  for  many  other  purposes. 

402.  Compass  in  the  Woods. — Never  go  into  the 
woods  without  a  compass.     The  story  books  say  moss  is 
only  found  on  the  north  side  of  trees,  and  that  where 


188  CAMPING  AND  OUTING. 

moss  doesn't  grow  the  north  side  of  a  tree  trunk  is  light 
and  the  south  side  dark.  These  indications  are  not  to  be 
trusted. 

403.  Fire  Lighting-  with  a  Gun.— Take  a  bit  of 
rag,  the  cloth  lining  from  a  hat,  coat,  etc.    Rub  powder 
into  it  well,  then  load  it  into  your  gun  or  cartridge  shell. 
Fire  it  among  dry  leaves,  and  have  some  small  dry  sliv- 
ers of  wood  ready  to  catch  the  blaze  before  it  ceases  to 
glow. 

404.  Stiff  Boots. — To  prevent  wet  boots  from  be- 
coming stiff,  rub  them  with  a  good  dressing  of  castor  oil 
just  before  they  are  thoroughly  dry.    To  soften  stiff  boots, 
soak  them  in  water  and  treat  as  above. 

405.  Wet  Boots. — Never  put  wet  boots  near  a  fire 
to  dry;  they  should  be  dried  slowly. 

406.  Footgear  for  the  Woods.— Let  the  boots  be 
single  soled,  single  backs  and  single  fronts,  except  light, 
short  foot- linings.    Backs  of  solid  "  country  kip  ;"  fronts 
of  substantial  French  calf;  heel  1  inch  high,  with  steel 
nails;  countered  outside;  straps  narrow,  of  fine  French 
calf  put  on  "astraddle,"  and  set  down  to  the  top  of  the 
back.    The  out  sole  stout  Spanish  oak,  and  pegged  rather 
than  sewed,  although  either  is  good.-— NessmuJc. 

407.  Wading  Shoes.— Shoes  for  wading  are  made 
with  thick  soles  studded  with  round-headed  nails,  and 
contain  small  holes  to  let  the  water  escape,  but  not  so 
large  as  to  permit  mud  and  pebbles  to  enter. 

408.  Cold  Tea.— A  bottle  of  cold  tea  is  much  better 
than  a  bottle  of  whisky  for  use  in  the  field. 


CHAPTER  V. 
DOGS. 

4O9.  In  the  Field.— Do  not  feed  too  much  before 
starting  out  for  a  hunt.  Look  after  your  dog's  feet  after 
a  day's  hunt.  Leave  no  burrs  on  over  night.  Feed  at 
night  after  hunting.  Don't  allow  them  to  fill  themselves 
with  water  while  hunting. 

4 1C.  Care  of  Pups. — Give  the  mother  plenty  of 
healthful  food  and  exercise,  and  as  soon  as  the  puppies 
are  a  few  days  old  remove  them  from  their  stall  and 
make  their  bed  upon  the  bare  ground  until  they  arc 
weaned.  Never  wash  a  puppy.  It  is  of  no  benefit 
to  them,  except  in  looks,  and  it  is  often  a  source  of 
trouble  in  that  it  induces  a  cold  which  may  bring  dis- 
ease and  death.  Keep  them  sheltered  from  cold  and 
inclement  weather,  but  at  all  times  give  them  plenty 
of  room  on  the  ground,  where  they  can  dig  in  the 
dirt  and  get  fresh  earth  to  eat  when  they  wish  it. 
After  weaning,  accustom  them  to  a  diet  of  Indian  or 
oatmeal,  well  cooked  and  mixed  with  plenty  of  thick 
sour  milk.  This  is  the  best  possible  thing  to  expel  the 
worms  that  many  times  infest  them.  It  is  also  the  best 
regulator  of  the  bowels,  as  by  a  little  care  in  increasing 
or  diminishing  the  quantity  it  will  always  keep  them 
just  right.  Frequently  boil  meat  and  use  the  broth  for 
making  their  mush,  and  if  their  condition  is  not  just  to 
suit,  give  them  an  occasional  meal  of  well-cooked  meat, 


140  DOGS. 

and  when  their  teeth  begin  to  trouble  them  give  them 
plenty  of  large  bones,  with  a  little  meat  on  them,  and 
never,  under  any  circumstances — for  their  ordinary  ail- 
ments— give  them  a  single  dose  of  medicine,  and  above 
all  else,  never  worry  with  thoughts  or  fears  that  they 
will  not  live. — S.  T.  Hammond. 

411,  Feeding  Pups.— Pups  should  be  fed  three  or 
four  times  daily  up  to  six  or  eight  weeks  old,  and  then 
but  three  times.    Feed  soft  light  food  until  second  teeth 
are  well  up,  such  as  mashed  potatoes  in  bread  and  milk, 
or  scraps  from  the  table  made  soft  with  milk  or  gravies 
that  are  not  greasy.    All  grease,  except  butter,  should  be 
avoided,  and  all  vegetables  must  be  finely  mashed  so  that 
dogs  can  digest  them.     Old  dogs  can  easily  digest  bones, 
but  not  hard  pieces  of  vegetables.    Bones  should  be  kept 
from  pups,  except  large  ones  to  gnaw  and  woik  at  while 
cutting  teeth.    Feed  pup  at  each  time  in  bulk  not  over 
two-thirds  the  size  of  its  head  or  you  will  overload  its 
stomach  and  it  will  not  do  well.    You  will  find  a  meal 
once  or  twice  a  week  of  good  rich  buttermilk  will  be  an 
acceptable  dish  for  growing  dogs,  as  it  keeps  their  blood 
pure,  bowels  loose,  and  makes  their  skin  clean  and  hair 
glossy. 

412.  Teaching:  Pups  to  Take  to  Water.— If 

pups  show  a  disinclination  to  take  to  water  don't  force 
them  in.  The  best  plan  is  to  take  them  to  a  stream  which 
you  can  wade  through;  walk  through  to  the  other  side, 
and  they  will  probably  follow  you  at  once;  if  they  do  not, 
walk  straight  away  from  the  opposite  side  and  go  out  of 
sight;  they  will  come  after  making  a  little  fuss  about  it. 
If  you  have  not  a  suitable  shallow  stream,  but  are  obliged 
to  make  use  of  a  deep  river  for  your  purpose,  get  an 
attendant  whom  they  do  not  know  to  hold  your  puppies 
while  you  go  around  by  a  bridge  out  of  their  sight,  and 
come  down  opposite  to  them,  and  follow  the  instructions 
I  have  given  above;  but  remember,  many  young  dogs 


DOGS.  141 

have  at  first  a  great  fear  of  getting  out  of  their  depth  all 
at  once,  but  will  freely  dabble  into  a  shallow  stream;  so 
it  is  best  to  lead  them  on  by  degrees.  Once  having  got 
off  their  legs,  and  finding  that  it  is  an  easy  matter  to 
swim,  there  will  be  no  further  trouble.  Always  choose 
warm  weather  for  this  teaching. 

413.  Worms  in  Puppies, — Areca  nut,  santonine, 
turpentine,  tin  filings  and  other  usual  remedies  will  rid 
the  dog  of  worms,  but  tend  to  inflame  the  urinary  organs 
and  often  leave  the  dog  in  a  bad  state.    A  better  remedy 
is  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  charcoal  given  twice  a  day 
for  three  or  four  days.     Charcoal  is  a  purifier  and  absorb- 
ent of  putrid  gases  ;  it  absorbs  gases  very  rapidly.     One 
cubic  inch  of  fresh  charcoal  will  absorb  nearly  100  inches 
of  gaseous  ammonia.     When  given  to  a  dog  it  absorbs  or 
destroys  the  putrescent  gases  which  are  generated  in  the 
stomach  and  alimentary  canal.     These  gases  help  to  gen- 
erate the  worms,  and  without  them  the  worm  cannot 
live.    Charcoal  also  acts  on  the  digestive  organs,  increas- 
ing their  power  as  well  as  healing  any  unhealthy  condition 
of  the  stomach  if  existing  there. 

414.  Care  of  Cockers.— Cockers    get    their  full 
height  at  from  seven  to  nine  months  old,  and  then  begin 
to  fill  out  in  body,  the  head  acquiring  its  permanent 
shape  last.    The  long  feathering  on  the  ears,  like  a  man's 
beard,   does  not  reach  perfection  until    maturity,   say 
eighteen  months  old,  and  if  the  ears  become  frozen  before 
this  age  the  growth  of  "  feather"  will  be  stunted.     Give 
the  pup  clean  and  wholesome  food,  lots  of  exercise  in  the 
open  air,  and  a  sweet  bed  of  clean  pine  shavings.     These 
points  are  necessary  to  obtain  a  handsome,  healthy  and 
clean  dog. 

415.  Training  Cockers.— 1.  Teach  the  usual  whis- 
tle and  command  for  come.    2.  To  know  their   name. 
3.  The  beckon  to  come.    Use  it  together  with  the  whistle 


142  DOGS. 

for  come  until  he  comes  to  it.  4.  The  short  and  shrill 
whistle  for  attention.  5.  Find,  by  motion.  Drop  pieces 
of  food,  gradually  increasing  the  distance  and  always 
use  the  words,  " Find  it."  6.  Down!  or  charge!  7.  Steady! 
and  whoa!  With  string  about  his  neck  walk  yourself  as 
fast  as  he  leads  you.  Cry  "Steady !''  and  steady  yourself, 
which  steadies  him.  Cry  "Whoa!"  and  halt,  which 
stops  him.  8.  On!  or  hie  on!  From  the  halt,  motion 
him  on  accompanied  with  the  words  "On!>;  or  "Hie  oni ' 
9.  Heel!  With  string  on  neck  and  switch  in  hand,  keep 
him  back  at  heel  with  the  switch,  using  the  word 
"Heel!"  at  the  same  time.  10.  Take  care!  Used  for 
making  him  desist  while  doing  any  wrong  act.  11.  Fine 
fellow!  and  shame!  Used  as  words  of  encouragement  and 
discouragement.  12.  Fetch!  Using  a  ball  or  glove.  13. 
Find!  After  he  fetches  articles  hide  them  near  by  for 
him  to  find,  and  motion  in  the  direction  it  may  be. 
14.  To  Ride  in  Wagon.  Box  his  ears  and  scold  for 
jumping  out,  standing  up  or  uneasiness.  15.  Get  Used  to 
Water.  Be  very  careful  at  first  not  to  frighten  him.  16. 
Learn  the  Report  of  a  Gun.  First  put  a  string  on  pup 
and  fasten  it  to  yourself.  Commence  by  firing  caps, 
then  light  charges  at  a  bird  thrown  into  the  air.  17.  To 
Tree  Ruffed  Grouse.  To  teach  your  pup  to  be  an  expert 
treeer  of  ruffed  grouse,  take  him  out  late  in  the  after- 
noon (at  the  opening  of  the  grouse  season  if  possible), 
into  thick  underbrush  where  you  know  the  grouse  are. 
Let  him  flush  them  up  into  the  trees,  and  it  being  thick 
underbrush  or  second  growth,  they  will  light  close  to 
him  and  attract  his  attention,  when  he  will  bark  at  them 
(or  will  very  soon).  Carefully  shoot  one  or  two  over  him 
and  go  home.  Repeat  this  lesson  quite  a  few  times  and 
he  gets  the  impression  they  must  be  in  a  tree  before  being 
shot.  After  this  is  instilled  into  him,  shooting  them  or 
cock  on  the  wing  will  not  unsteady  him. 

416.  Gimsliyiiess.— Use  very  light  charges  of  pow- 
der.    If  dog  flinches  from  these  begin  by  snapping  caps, 


DOGS. 


143 


then  use  lightest  powder  charges,  increasing  the  charge 
as  he  becomes  accustomed  to  it. 

417.  Chicken-Killing  Habit.— Slap  the  dog  with 
the  chicken  he  has  killed  a  few  times  and  make  him 
understand  he  has  done  wrong.    Then  pass  the  chicken's 
legs  each  side  of  the  dog's  neck  and  tie  the  feet  together 
so  that  the  chicken  hangs  under  his  chin.     Leave  it  on 
him  all  day. 

418.  Kennel  and  Yard.— For  ten  to  fourteen  dogs 
the  accompanying  cut  shows  a  well  arranged  kennel. 
The  ground  should  be  covered  with  gravel,  and  earthen 


vessels  used  to  feed  and  water  in.    The  yards  ^1,  B,  C, 
and  D,  are  about  2x4  rods  each;  the  rooms  each  6x8 


144  DOGS. 

feet,  which  are  neatly  roofed  and  well  ventilated.  The 
fence  is  of  pickets  2|  inches  wide  and  7  feet  high,  2$ 
inches  space. 

419.  Fumigating  Kennels.— Place  some  sulphur 
in  an  iron  vessel  and  pour  a  little  alcohol  on  it.  Set  fire 
to  the  alcohol,  which  will  ignite  the  sulphur.  Take  out 
your  dogs  and  put  the  vessel  into  the  kennel. 

4:20.  Feet.—  For  sore  feet:  Wash  in  lukewarm  water, 
adding  a  little  salt.  Anoint  with  tar  ointment.  To  pre- 
vent sore  feet:  Bathe  twice  daily  for  a  few  days  in  a 
solution  of  1  quart  whisky,  1  ounce  tannin,  and  piece  of 
alum  size  of  a  walnut.  Old  beef  brine  is  also  good. 

421.  Removing    Dew   Claws. — Always   remove 
them  when  the  pup  is  very  young,  their  excision  then 
being  accomplished  with  a  sharp  pair  of  scissors.     First 
divide  the  skin  and  draw  the  dew  claw  to  one  side  before 
it  is  detached,  in  order  that  the  skin  may  afterward  cover 
the  wound. 

422.  Sick  Nursing. — Kennel  a  sick  dog  alone,  in  a 
warm,  dry,  well  ventilated  kennel,  with  a  box  or  basket 
lined  with  straw  to  lie  in.     Change  straw  daily.     Put  a 
basin  of  cold  water,  changed  twice  daily,  in  reach.    Re- 
move evacuations  daily  and  sprinkle  a  disinfectant  about. 
Keep  the  dog  quiet  and  don't  exercise,  groom  or  wash 
him.      Give  medicines  regularly  at  stated  times,    and 
never  a  double  dose  when  a  single  dose  has  been  omitted 
previously.     A  harsh  word  to  a  sick  dog  may  bring  on 
fits.    See  Administering  Medicines,  Hint  425. 

423.  Emetic.— Hold  up  the  head,  open  the  mouth 
and  drop  a  small  handful  of  salt  down  his  throat  as  far 
possible.     Then  hold  his  mouth  shut  until  he  swallows 
the  salt. 

424.  Giving  Pills  to  Dogs.— Coat  the  pills  by  roll- 
ing in  wheat  flour.     Dip  the  finger  into  cod  liver  oil  and 


DOGS.  145 

let  the  dog  lick  it  off;  then  roll  the  pills  in  the  oil  and 
drop  them  into  his  mouth  when  he  opens  it  to  receive 
the  finger.  The  most  disagreeable  pills  will  slip  down 
his  throat  at  once. 

425.  Administering  Medicines. — To  have  their 
proper  and  desired  effects,  medicines  should  be  given 
regularly  and  at  stated  times,  and  not,  as  some  persons 
do,  to  give  a  double  one  because  they  forgot  one.  I  have 
known  this  to  be  done  repeatedly,  and  wish  to  warn 
owners  of  its  fatal  consequences.  The  medicine  should 
be  given  quietly  and  without  disturbing  the  dog,  if  possi- 
ble. One  person,  as  a  rule,  is  sufficient  to  give  it,  if  a 
little  tact  is  manifested.  If  it  be  liquid  medicine  it  is 
best  given  out  of  a  small  vial,  one  which  will  hold  about 
an  ounce.  In  administering  medicine  the  person  should 
stand  in  front  of  the  dog,  and  with  the  left  hand  the 
muzzle  of  the  animal  should  be  held,  the  head  slightly 
elevated,  and  the  teeth  kept  nearly  closed.  The  bottle 
containing  the  potion  should  be  held  in  the  right  hand, 
and  the  neck  of  it  placed  within  the  lips  on  the  left  side 
of  the  face,  between  the  teeth  and  cheek.  Then  small 
quantities  should  be  poured  into  the  mouth,  and  on  no 
account  should  a  second  quantity  be  given  until  the  first 
has  been  swallowed.  Some  dogs  are  rather  obstinate 
in  taking  medicine,  and  hold  it  in  the  mouth  some  sec- 
onds before  swallowing.  Under  these  circumstances 
many  people  pinch  the  throat,  with  the  idea  of  inducing 
the  dog  to  swallow.  This  act  is  dangerous,  as  it  often 
makes  the  patient  cough,  and,  with  the  fluid  in  the 
throat,  sometimes  choke  from  drawing  it  into  the  wind- 
pipe. All  that  is  necessary,  in  most  cases,  is  a  little 
patience  to  keep  the  dog's  head  elevated,  and  he  will 
soon  swallow.  In  very  obstinate  cases  the  end  of  the 
nose  may  be  pinched,  which  soon  compels  the  dog  to 
perform  the  act  of  deglutition.  To  give  a  pill  or  bolus 
the  upper  part  of  the  muzzle  should  be  grasped  and  the 
lips  pressed  between  the  teeth.  This  forces  the  mouth 


146  DOGS. 

open  and  it  remains  so,  because  the  dog  is  afraid  of  bit- 
ing himself.  The  head  should  then  be  elevated,  and  the 
pill  or  bolus  dropped  into  the  back  of  the  mouth.  The 
mouth  must  then  be  immediately  closed  and  held  until 
the  dog  has  swallowed. — Dr.  A.  J.  Sewell,  in  Live  Stock 
Journal. 

426.  Poisoned  Dogs. — As  soon  as  you  know  a  dog 
has  been  poisoned,  inject  about  one  ounce  of  hydrate  of 
chloral  into  his    back  with  a  hypodermic  syringe,  the 
quantity  to  be   governed  by   the   size  of  the  dog  and 
severity  of  his  symptoms.    As  long  as  there  is  life  in 
him  do  not  despair.     I  have  known  dogs  to  be  saved  by 
this  treatment  when  in  the  death  throes.—  Dick. 

427.  Mange. — This  disease  is  caused  by  dirty  ken- 
nels, neglect,  want  of  nourishing  or  improper  food.    Give 
the  dog  1  ounce  of  salts  and  rub  into  the  skin  every  three 
days  the  following  mixture :  1  quart  train  oil  or  tanners'  oil, 
1  large  wineglass  spirits  turpentine,  enough  sulphur  to 
make  the  mixture  of  the  consistency  of  molasses.     Scrub 
it  well  into  the  skin,  and  let  it  remain  on  a  fortnight, 
after  which  wash  with  soap  and  water. 

428.  Distemper. — When  a  pup's  permanent  tusks 
are  about  half  through,  the  temporary  ones  being  stiil 
retained,  look  out  for  distemper.     It  is  most  common  in 
fall  or  spring.     Moisture  of  the  eyes  and  a  short  cough 
are  the  earliest  signs.    The  dog  seeks  warmth,  constantly 
stivers,  and  if   touched    trembles  violently.     The  dis- 
charge from  the  eyes  becomes  thick  and  purulent.     A 
mucus  or  yellow  fluid  moistens  the  nostrils.     If  the  dog 
is  not  attended  to  the  disease  may  seem  to  disappear  in  a 
few  days,  but  it  generally  soon  reappears.    Remedies 
vary  according  to  circumstances,  and  no  attempt  to  pre- 
scribe for  the  disease  is  proper  here. 

429.  Lice. — Comb  the  dog  thoroughly  with  a  fine 
comb,  and  get  off  most  of  them;  then  wash  him  with  soap 


DOGS.  147 

and  water,  and  before  lie  is  dry  rub  him  all  over  with  a 
strong  solution  of  common  salt  and  water,  to  which  a 
little  saltpeter  has  been  added,  allowing  the  solution  to 
dry  on.  It  may  be  necessary  to  repeat  this  three  or  four 
times  at  intervals  of  about  three  days. — Biib. 

430.  Sawdust  in  Kennels.— Never  use  sawdust 
in  kennels.     It  becomes  attached  to  the  dog's  food  and  is 
injurious  to  the  dog  if  swallowed. 

431.  Breeding1. — Do  not  breed  from  a  bitch  under 
18  months  old.     Let  her  mate  excel  in  points  in  which 
she  is  deficient.     Don't  breed  brother  and  sister  or  parent 
and  pup.     Hunt  the  bitch  occasionally  while  in  pup,  and 
feed  well  but  not  too  much.     Don't  weaken  the  bitch  by 
making  her  raise  too  many  pups.     Six  or  seven  is  a  plenty. 
Give  her  a  warm  kennel  and  let  her  run  loose,  free  to  go 
or  come.     Pups  may  be  weaned  when  6  or  8  weeks  old. 

432.  Separating  Fighting  Dogs.— Choking  off, 
douching  with  water,  etc.,  will  sometimes  answer,  but 
very  game  dogs  will  hang  on,  even  under  a  pump,  and 
choking  off  is  sometimes  somewhat  dangerous.     A  cer- 
tain means  is  showering  something  over  the  dogs  that 
will  produce  sneezing.     Be  his  will  ever  so  good,  the 
motion  of  sneezing  involuntarily  opens  his  jaws.     Pepper 
answers  very  well,  but  snuff  is  probably  the  beot,  as  it 
can  be  used  ad  libitum,  and  will  certainly  produce  the 
effect  if  enough  is  used. 

433.  Field  Trial  Rules.— Pointing.-  The  judges 
will  allow  only  those  dogs  the  maximum  that  point  all 
the  birds  possible  for  them  to  point  under  existing  cir- 
cumstances.    A  dog.  to  earn  the  maximum  number  of 
points  under  this  head  must  display  a  first-class  nose  and 
exhibit  great  judgment  in  finding  and  pointing  his  birds, 
and  make  no  flushes  that  a  dog  with  above  qualities  would 
avoid  in  ordinary  hunting.     The  dogs  are  to  be  hunted 
in  all  respects  as  in  an  ordinary  day's  shooting.     Inex- 


148  DOGS. 

cusable  or  willful  flushes  will  detract  from  a  dog's  score 
under  this  head,  but  the  character  of  this  flush  must  be 
always  taken  into  account  in  estimating  the  penalty,  if 
any.  The  judges  must  not  ask  the  handlers  if  their  dogs 
are  pointing,  but  must  decide  for  themselves.  They  shall 
always  consider  the  nature  of  the  ground,  the  wind  and 
the  birds,  and  not  penalize  a  dog  for  flushing  a  bird  it 
would  be  impossible  to  point.  The  penalty  for  flushes  to 
be  graded  by  the  character  of  the  offense.  The  judges 
shall  not  require  the  handlers  to  work  their  dogs  down 
wind.  Judges  are  allowed  the  discretion  of  declaring 
dogs  out  of  the  heat  if  absent  when  called. 

434:.  Pace. — The  dog  that  maintains  the  fastest  gait 
throughout  the  trial,  except  when  in  cover  or  on  game, 
to  receive  the  full  number  of  points,  all  others  to  be 
graded  by  him. 

435.  Backing'.— A  dog  to  get  maximum  for  back- 
ing must  stop  at  the  sight  of  another  dog  pointing,  with- 
out being  cautioned  by  his  handler.  A  dog  shall  not  be 
said  to  refuse  to  back,  unless  the  dog  pointing  stands 
upon  his  feet  and  is  motionless.  Should  a  dog  be  spoken 
to  or  cautioned  while  backing,  the  judges  shall  grade  his 
score  accordingly.  Judges  shall  have  power  to  give  dogs 
more  than  one  opportunity  to  back. 

43(>.  Style. — The  judges  shall  consider  the  dog's  grace 
in  ranging  and  drawing,  and  attitudes  in  pointing  and 
backing. 

437.  Staunchness. — The   maximum   allowed  such 
dogs  only  as  do  not  advance  from  their  point  when  they 
are  on  game,  until  ordered  on. 

438.  Ranging'. — The   maximum    only  allowed  the 
dogs  that  maintain  the  most  killing  range  throughout, 
viz.,  wide  or  close,  as  the  necessity  of  the  case  may  re- 
quire, 


DOGS.  149 

439.  Quartering.— The  maximum  only  allowed  such 
dogs  as  work  at  right  angles  with  the  handler,  unless  the 
ground  renders  such  work  impracticable. 

440.  Obedience  and  Disposition. — The    maxi- 
mum only  allowed  to  a  dog  that  works  promptly  to  the 
gun,  without  noise  or  severity,  and  is  obedient,  prompt, 
cheerful  and  easily  handled.     A  dog  to  receive  credit  for 
pace,  ranging,  quartering,  obedience  and  disposition,  must 
earn  something  under  the  head  of  pointing. 

441.  Retrieving. — To  receive  the  maximum  under 
this  head  a  dog  shall  go  promptly  and  cheerfully  for  the 
bird,  and  deliver  it  to  the  handler  without  mouthing  or 
mutilation. 

442.  False  Pointing.— The  judges  shall  give  a  dog 
ample  opportunity  to  discover  whether  or  not  he  is  on 
a  true  point,  and  the  penalty  shall  range  from  1  to  5  for 
his  acts  throughout  the  heat. 

443.  Breaking  In — Is  when  a  dog,  through  im- 
perfect breaking  or  from  excitement,  leaves  his  position 
when   the  birds  rise,  whether  the  gun  is  fired  or  not, 
and  starts  to  break  shot  or  chase,  but  stops  within  a  few 
feet  of  the  point  from  which  he  started,   of  his    own 
accord  or  by  command. 

444.  BreakiDg    Shot— Is    when    a    dog  runs   in 
when  a  shot  is  fired  with  the  intention  of  getting  the 
bird  and  does  not  stop  promptly  at  command. 

445.  Chasing — Is  when  a  dog  follows  the  birds, 
cither  when  the  gun  is  fired  or  not,  to  an  extent  to  be 
beyond  the  control  of  the  handler  for  the  time  being. 


CHAPTER  VI. 
BOATING  AND  YACHTING. 

446.  Cleaning  Boats. — To  clean  a  varnished  boat, 
rub  it  with  alcohol,  using  a  sponge,  or  with  the  decoction 
formed  by  steeping  tea  leaves  half  an  hour  in  a  tin  pan. 
Strain  through  a  sieve.     To  clean  white  paint,  take  up  a 
piece  of  whiting  on  a  damp  piece  of  old  white  flannel, 
and  rub  over  the  surface  lightly.    Black  paint  may  be 
refreshed  by  passing  over  it  lightly  with  an  oiled  rag 
almost  dry. 

447.  Varnishing  Bright  Boats.— The  first  point 
is  to  clean  the  boat,  thoroughly  scrubbing  with  hot  water 
and  soap,  until  all  dirt  is  removed,  then  washing  with 
clean  water.    After  all    repairs  have  been  made,    the 
old  varnish  should  be  sandpapered  or  rubbed  down  until 
it  is  perfectly  smooth,  unless  the  former  coats  were  too 
thick,  in  which  case  the  boat  must  be  scraped  with  glass 
or  a  steel  scraper.    After  sandpapering,  the  new  portions, 
if  there  are  any,  should  have  a  coat  or  two  of  shellac. 
For  varnishing,  a  spot  free  from  all  dust  should  be  selected 
in  a  dry  place  and  out  of  the  wind.    The  best  varnish  for 
boats  and  outside  work  is  spar  composition,  of  which 
there  are  several  makes.     Crockett's  and  Pratt  &  Lam- 
bert's are  both  good.     The  varnish  should  be  laid  on  in  a 
thin  coat,  and  allowed  to  harden  thoroughly  before  apply- 
ing a  second,  if  one  is  needed.     It  is  better  to  put  but  one 
coat  on  an  old  boat,  renewing  it  when  necessary,  rather 


BOATING  AND  YACHTING.  151 

than  putting  on  several  thick  coats  at  one  time.  For  new 
work  there  are  several  preparations  in  the  market  known 
as  wood  fibres,  preservatives,  etc.,  intended  to  fill  the 
grain  of  the  wood  before  applying  the  spar  composition, 
thus  requiring  less  of  the  latter,  and  giving  a  better  sur- 
face. A  new  varnished  surface  should  never  be  exposed 
to  a  hot  sun,  or  it  will  blister  badly. 

448.  Removing  Paint  or  Putty.— Take  3  pounds 
quick  lime  and  1  pound  pearl  ash  and  slake  in  water, 
heating  until  the  mixture  is  about  the  consistency  of 
paint.    Apply  with  a  brush  and  let  stand  about  twelve 
hours,  when  paint  or  putty  may  be  removed  by  scraping 
gently. 

449.  Pot-Leading  Boats'  Bottoms.— Apply  a 

thin  coat  of  linseed  oil,  dust  on  the  black  lead  powder 
and  rub  down  smooth. 

450.  Bleaching   Sails.— One  barrel  salt  water,  3 
pounds  chloride  of  lime,  2  pounds  whiting,  3  pounds  soda 
ash,  3  pounds  salt.     Scrub  sails  lightly  with  a  broom  on 
both  sides  and  dry  on  the  beach. 

451.  Boats    in  Winter. — Always  preserve  your 
boat  from  the  weather,  especially  on  the  sunny  side. 
Tack  or  lash  old  canvas,   burlap  or   matting   around. 
Keep  her  clear  of  the  mud  and  wash  of  the  tide,  or  keel 
will  rot  away.    Sweep  snow  off  her  decks.    Air  below 
during  fine  days.     Stop  all  leaks  that  may  develop  about 
the  bits,  partners,  bolts,  etc. ,  as  the  wood  dries.     Haul  out 
clear  of  sheds  and  shanties,  and  insure  for  fire.    Comb  up 
all  lanyards.     Stow  sails  and  gear  where  they  will  not 
mildew  and  out  of  the  way  of  rats,  mice  and  thieves. 

452.  Spars  in  Winter.— Slush  down  with  mixture 
of  white  lead  and  tallow  and  put  under  cover. 

453.  Ropes  and  Rigging.— A  rope  is  composed  of 
threads  of  hemp  and    other    fibrous    material.      These 


152  BOATING  AND  YACHTING. 

threads  are  called  yarns.  A  number  of  yarns  twisted 
together  form  a  strand;  three  or  more  strands  twisted 
together  form  a  rope.  A  rope's  bight  is  any  part  not  an 
end.  A  boat's  rigging  is  -made  from  ropes.  Standing 
rigging  is  that  which  is  stationary,  like  shrouds,  stays, 
etc.;  running  rigging  refers  to  ropes  that  run  through 
blocks,  like  halliards  and  sheets. 

454.  Sailors'  Knots— Two  Half  Hitches.— Pass 

the  end  of  the  rope  around  the  standing 
part  and  bring  it  up  through  the  bight 
(one  half  hitch).     Take  it  around  again 
for  two  half  hitches. 

455.  Bowline  Knot.— See  Chap,  III.,  Hint  No.  323. 

456.  Square  or  Reef  Knot.— Take  an  overhand 
knot  around  a  spar;  take  an  end  in  each 

hand  and  cross  them  on  the  same  side 
on  which  they  came  up;  pass  one  end 
round  the  other  and  bring  it  up  through 
the  bight.  If  the  ends  are  crossed  the 
wrong  way  it  will  be  a  "granny"  knot,  and  will  not  hold. 

457.  Timber    Hitch. — Take  a  turn  of    the    rope 

around  a  spar,  lead  the  end  under  and 
over  the  standing  part,  and  pass  two  or 
more  round  turns  around  its  own  part; 

pass  the  first  turn  over  the  end  part  instead  of  through 

the  bight,  as  in  a  half  hitch. 

458.  Sheet  Bend.— Pass  the  end   of   a   rope   up 
through  the   turn    of    another,    round 

both  parts  of  the  other  and  under  its 

own  part.     This  does  not  jam,  and  is 

the  best  knot  that    we    know    cf   for 

tying  together  two  ropes  of  different  sizes,  or  a  chair 

to  a  rope. 

459.  Anchor  Knot.— Take  two  turns  around  the 


BOATING  AND  YACHTim.  153 

ring  with  the  end  of  the  rope;  hitch  the  end  around  the 
standing  part  and  through  both  turns,  and  then  pass  the 
end  over  the  second  and  under  the  first  turn. 

460.  Sheep  Shank.— Make  two  long  bights  in  a  rope 
which  shall  overlay  one  another;  take  a  half  hitch  over 
each  end  of  the  overlaying  part  with  the  standing  part 
which  is  next  to  it.     Used  to  shorten  a  rope,  the  main- 
sheet,   for  instance,  temporarily,  the  whole  being  cast 
off  to  full  length  instantly  by  a  sharp  pull  on  any  of  the 
bights  where  they  overlay. 

461.  Care  of  Ballast. — To  keep  ballast  clean  re- 
move every  season,  scrub  and  whitewash  with  hot  lime 
or  coat  with  red  lead.     Clean  and  red  lead  the  hold,  or 
use  mixture  of  two-thirds  Stockholm  tar  and  one-third 
coal  tar  boiled  together.     Never  stow  ballast  on  the  raw 
wood. 

462.  Starboard  and.  Port. — Starboard  refers  to 
anything  appertaining  to  the  right-hand  side  of  a  boat, 
the  observer  looking  toward  the  bow.     Port  refers  to  the 
left-hand  side.     When  the  boat  is  under  way  and  a  wind 
is  blowing  these  terms  are  generally  replaced  by  wind- 
ward (the  direction  from  which  the  wind  comes)  and  lee- 
ward (the  direction  to  which  the  wind  goes). 

463^  Parts  of  a  Sail.— Of  fore-and-aft  sails,  such 
as  are  used  on  all  small  sailboats  and  yachts,  the  head  of 
the  sail  is  that  part  fastened  to  the  gaff;  the  foot  is 
fastened  to  the  boom ;  the  leach  extends  from  the  end  of 
the  gaff  to  the  end  of  the  boom  furthest  removed  from 
the  mast;  the  luff  extends  from  gaff  end  to  boom  end 
nearest  the  mast,  to  which  it  is  generally  fastened  by 
hoops;  the  cleivs  are  what  a  landsman  would  call  the 
"corners"  of  the  sail,  and  the  clew  at  the  luff  and  foot  of 
the  sail  is  sometimes  called  the  tack.  The  jib  has  but 
three  clews. 


154  BOATING  AND  YACHTING. 

464.  Heaving  the  Hand  Lead. — Grasp  the  lead 
line  about  a  fathom  from  the  lead,  swing  it  to  and  fro 
and  then  launch  it  out  so  that  it  strikes  the  water  in 
advance  of  the  yacht's  course.     When  the  yacht  is  over 
the  spot  where  the  lead  has  been  cast  find  the  depth  of 
water  by  holding  the  line  perpendicular  for  an  instant. 
The  best  position  for  casting  is  on  deck  forward  of  the 
shrouds,  on  the  windward  side.     The  ten  fathom  lead 
line  is  marked  thus:    At  1  fathom,  a  knot;  2,  two  knots; 
3,  three  knots;  4,  four  knots;  5,  white  rag;  6,  six  knots; 
7,  red  rag;  8,  blue  rag;  9,  nothing;  10,  piece  of  leather. 

465.  "Eight  Bells,"  etc.— The  day  at  sea  begins  at 
12  o'clock  noon,  when  eight  bells  are  struck,  by  sets  of 
twos,  one,  two  rapidly  following  each  other,  then  a  pause 
of  3  seconds,  then  one,  two  again,  and  so  on.    Three  bells 
would  be  struck,  one,  two — one;  four  bells,  one,  two — one, 
two.    At  12:30  P.  M.  one  bell  is  struck;  at  1  P.  M.  two 
bells,  and  one  bell  more  every  half  hour  until  4  P.  M. , 
when  it  is  eight  bells  again.    It  is  then  repeated,  the  next 
eight  bells  coming  at  8  P.  M.,  the  next  at  midnight  and 
BO  on. 

466.  Watches. — The  afternoon  watch  is  from  eight 
bells  (noon)  to  eight  bells  (4  P.  M.);  then  follows  the  first 
dog  watch  until  four  bells  (6  P.  M.);  the  second   dog 
watch  until  eight  bells  (8  P.  M.);  the  first  night  watch 
until  eight  bells  (midnight);  the  second  night  watch  until 
eight  bells  (4  A.  M.);  the  morning  watch  until  eight  bells 
(8  A.  M.),  and  the  forenoon  watch  until  eight  bells  (noon). 

4O7.  Boxing  the  Compass.— Learning  to  repeat 
the  thirty-two  points  on  the  mariner's  compass  by 
memory  from  right  to  left  and  back  again,  commencing 
at  north,  and  keeping  at  the  same  time  in  the  eye  the 
position  of  the  points  upon  the  compass  card,  is  a  neces- 
sity for  all  sailors  who  use  a  chart  or  attempt  the  least 
important  problems  in  sailing.  The  points,  abbreviated, 


BOATING  AND  YACHTING.  155 

are  as  follows:  N.;  N.  by  E.;  N.N.E.;  N.E.  by  N.;  N.E.; 
N.E.  by  K;  E.N.E.;  E.  by  N.;  E.;  E.  by  S.;  E.S.E.;  S.E. 
by  E.;  S.E.;  S.E.  by  S.;  S.S.E.;  S.  by  E. ;  S. ;  S.  by  W.; 
S.S.W.;  S.W.  by  S.;  S.W.;  S.W.  by  W.;  W.S.W.;  W.  by 

S.;  W.;  W.  by  N.;  W.N.W.;  N.W.  by  W,;  N.  W.;  N.W. 

byN.;  N.N.W.;  N.  by  W. 

468.  "Five  Knot  Breeze,"  etc.— The  wind  is 
said  to  be  a  five  knot  or  a  seven  knot  breeze  when  a  full 
rigged  ship  would  be  driven  at  about  those  rates.  It  is 
ascertained  merely  by  experience,  and  is  an  expression 
in  use  among  sailors.  A  one  to  two  knot  breeze  is  a  light 
air  with  a  velocity  of  1  to  3^  miles;  a  two  to  three  knot 
breeze  has  a  velocity  of  3  £  to  6  miles ;  a  three  to  five  knot 
wind  has  a  velocity  of  6  to  8  miles;  five  to  six  knots,  8  to 
10  miles;  six  to  seven  knots,  10  to  16  miles;  seven  to  eight 
knots,  16  to  24  miles;  eight  to  ten  knots,  24  to  35  miles. 

4G9.  Velocity  of  Wind.— A  "fresh  breeze"  blows 
16  miles  an  hour;  a  "single  reef"  breeze  blows  18  miles 
an  hour;  a  "close  reef"  breeze  blows  20  miles  an  hour;  a 
"gale"  blows  24  miles  an  hour;  a  "fresh  gale"  blows  30 
miles  an  hour. 

470.  Grounding1. — If   the  yacht  grounds  upon  a 
shoal  and  is  left  by  the  tide,  get  out  an  anchor  at  once  to 
windward.     Then,  when  the  flood  begins  the  yacht  will 
not  be  blown  further  on  the  shoal  but  will  soon  ride  head 
to  wind  or  tide. 

471.  Buoys.— In  entering  a  harbor  leave  black  buoys 
to  port,  red  buoys  to  starboard. 

472.  Springing  a  Leak.— When  a  yacht  springs  a 
leak  pass  a  sail  over  the  bows  and  lead  it  aft  over  the 
leak  by  means  of  ropes  on  both  sides  of  the  yacht.     Then 
make  for  the  nearest  port  at  once  for  repairs. 

473.  Cement  for  Stopping*  Leaks.— The  rubber 
cement  used  for  fastening  bicycle  tires  is  excellent  for 


156  BOATING  AND  YACHTING. 

stopping  leaks  in  canoes,  either  joint,  cracks  or  holes; 
quite  large  holes  can  be  fixed  up  with  it  for  cracks  or 
joints,  with  a  hot  iron  or  small  stone.  Melt  and  rub  the 
cement  well  in,  leave  a  small  streak  of  the  cement  over 
the  crack  or  joint.  For  mending  a  hole  take  a  piece  of 
canvas  or  boot  leg  large  enough  to  cover  the  hole,  with 
about  one  inch  lap  all  around.  With  a  hot  iron  or  stone 
smear  over  the  patch  with  a  good  coat  of  rubber  cement, 
also  smear  around  the  edges  of  the  hole,  then  heat  the 
patch  quite  hot  and  press  it  in  place.  Then  smear  over 
the  whole  with  cement,  using  the  hot  iron  or  stone.  The 
cement  will  harden  in  a  short  time,  when  it  will  re- 
quire no  further  looking  after.  This  is  for  emergencies. 
To  fix  a  hole  permanently  it  should  be  cut  out  square  or 
oblong,  with  slightly  beveling  edges;  then  neatly  fit  a 
piece  of  wood  to  the  hole,  smear  the  edges  of  the  piece  as 
well  as  the  edges  of  the  hole  with  rubber  cement;  have  it 
quite  warm,  then  press  the  piece  in  place;  if  well  done  it 
will  neither  come  out  nor  leak. — Calif ornian. 

474.  Sailing  Rules.— The  * 'rules  of  the  road"  on 
the  water  are  important  to  know.     A  vessel  is  on  the  star- 
board tack  when  the  wind  blows  against  her  starboard 
side,  and  she  has  the  right  of  way  over  a  vessel  on  the 
port  tack  except  when  the  latter  is  sailing  close-hauled 
and  the  former  sailing  free,  in  which  case  the  vessel  on 
the  port  tack  has  the  right  of  way.    If  two  vessels  have 
the  wind  blowing  on  the  same  side,  the  vessel  to  wind- 
ward shall  keep  out  of  the  way  of  the  one  to  leeward. 
If  two  sailing  vessels  are  meeting  end  on  the  helms  of 
both  shall  be  put  to  port,  each  steering  to  starboard.     A 
steam  vessel  must  get  out  of  the  way  of  a  sailing  vessel. 
Every  vessel  overtaking  another  must  keep  out  of  the 
latter's  way. 

475.  McManus's  Sea  Anchor.— The  drag  consists 
of  a  conical  canvas  bag  with  a  circular  mouth.     It  is  at- 
tached to  an  iron  ring  with  hinges  in  the  center.    To  this 


BOATING  AND  YACHTING. 


157 


ring  the  bridle  is  secured,  the  spans  terminating  in  a  large 
eye  or  thimble  to  which  the  hawser  or  riding  cable  is 
bent.  To  strengthen  the  bag  ' 'roping"  is  sewn,  as  shown 
in  the  sketch,  and  an  eye  seized  off  at  the  tail  end  for 


THE  DRAG  IN  USE. 


TSADY   FOK  STOWINCI 

making  fast  the  tripping  line.  When  not  in  use  the  iron 
ring  is  doubled  up,  the  canvas  furled  snugly  by  passing 
the  buoy  line  around  the  whole.  In  this  shape  it  occupies 
but  little  space  and  can  be  got  ready  at  a  moment's 
notice.  If  you  are  anxious  to  lie  head  to  wind,  or  wish 
to  avoid  drifting,  the  ring  is  opened,  cable  and  trip  bent 
on  and  hove  over  the  bows.  The  bag  fills  as  soon  as  a 
strain  is  brought  on  the  cable  and  is  prevented  from  sink- 
ing by  the  cork  buoy  with  just  line  enough  to  let  the  drag 
settle  into  solid  water.  To  haul  aboard,  check  the  cable, 
jerk  on  the  trip  and  haul  in  tail  first,  when  the  rig  will  come 
home  without  trouble. 


158  BOATING  AND  YACHTING. 

476.  Lights   on   Boats.— All  steam  vessels  must 
carry  at  night,  when  under  way,  a  white  light  at  the 
foremast  head,  a  green  light  on  the  starboard  side  and  a 
red  light  on  the  port  side;  when  towing  other  vessels  a 
steam  vessel  must  carry  two  white  masthead  lights  verti- 
cally in  addition  to  side  lights.    Sailing  vessels  under  way 
must  carry  the  same  side  lights  as  a  steam  vessel,  but  no 
white  masthead  light.     All  vessels  at  anchor  must  show 
a  white  light  not  more  than  20ft.  above  the  hull.     Small 
or  open  boats  must  carry  a  lantern  having  a  green  slide 
on  one  side  and  a  red  slide  on  the  other,  and  on  the 
approach  of  other  vessels  must  show  the  proper  color  on 
the  side  toward  which  the  approaching  vessel  is  coming. 

477.  Boarding  a  Yacht.—  In  coming  alongside  a 
yacht  at  anchor  all  persons  who  are  not  guests  of  the 
captain  or  specially  invited,  or  of  some  rank,  should  come 
to  the  port  gangway.     Ladies  always  come  aboard  on  the 
starboard  side. 

478.  Canvas  Canoe. — The  ribs  and  long  strips  are 
made  of  oak  -J  by  scant  £  inch;  the  ribs  are  placed  5  inches 
apart,  and  there  are  six  long  strips  on  each  side,  and  two 
more  8  feet  long  to  fill  up  the  larger  space  in  the  middle. 
Where  each  strip  and  rib  cross  they  are  clinched  together 
with  a  copper  nail.     The  gunwale  strips  are  -J  square  and 
each  rib  is  let  into  them  and  nailed  with  two  copper  nails. 
Use  just  4  yards  of  52-inch  canvas,  and  the  pieces  taken 
off  each  end  make  the  deck.     Bring  the  canvas  over  the 
dado  ia  the  stem  and  stern,  and  put  in  a  spline;  then  put 
on  a  keel  made  of  oak  outside  of  the  canvas  and  screw  it 
to  the  center  keelson.     The  cockpit  is  made  of  ^-inch 
black  walnut  screwed  to  the  gunwale  strips,  and  has  a 
piece  i  by  1  inch  screwed  on  top  on  the  sides  and  back,  so 
that  it  leaves  -J-  inch  projection.     In  front  use  a  piece  •$• 
inch    by  3  inches.    The  seat  is  made    of    two   •$•  inch 
pine  pieces,   3  inches  wide,    screwed  to  the  ribs,   and 
the  top  is  rabbeted  •£  by  •£,  and  the  top  is  made  of 


BOATING  AND  YACHTING.  159 

2-inch  by  £-inch  pine  strips  placed  1  inch  apart  and 
cleated  together.  The  deck  is  raised  1  inch  in  center 
of  boat,  so  that  it  sheds  the  water,  both  sidewise  and  end- 
wise. Bring  the  canvas  around  the  boat  and  nail  it  on 
top  of  gunwale,  and  the  deck  the  same,  and  then  put  a 
neat  ^-inch  half-round  molding  on  top  of  the  tacks,  so 
that  it  makes  a  neat  job. — Far  West. 

479.  Paint  for  Canvas  Canoes. — One  gallon  boiled 
linseed  oil,  2  pounds  of  beeswax,  1  quart  of  benzine.     Cut 
the  wax  in  the  benzine,  add  to  the  oil;  heat  quite  warm, 
and  apply  as  long  as  the  canvas  will  take  it.     It  adds  very 
little  to  the  weight  of  the  canoe,  and  one  coat  will  last  a 
long  time.     No.  10  duck  is  better  than  heavier  canvas; 
the  mixture  will  keep  it  very  soft  and  pliable,  and  will 
stand  some  pretty  hard  knocks. — S.  D.  Kendall. 

480.  Waterproofing-    Canvas     Boats.— Boil    6 

ounces  hard  yellow  soap  in  -J  pint  of  water.  Add  |  pound 
patent  dryer  and  5  pounds  boiled  linseed  oil,  and  apply 
with  a  brush. 

481.  Building1  a  Boat  in  Three  Hours. — Take 
some  good  hogshead  hoops;  select  the  best  one;  and  then 
taking  two  strips  of  boards  fasten  them  to  the  keel  hoop, 
which  has  been  opened  out  to  form  a  backbone,  bow  and 
stern,  to  keep  it  upright.     Get  about  thirty  good  barrel 
hoops  and  tie  them  all  along  with  stout  tarred  twine  to 
the  keel  hoop,  and  two  more  hogshead  hoops,  which  are 
tied  one  end  of  each  to  an  end  of  the  keel  hoop,  and  then 
bring  the  other  ends  round,  tie  them  to  the  other  end  of 
the  keel — this  makes  the  side  or  rail.     The  ends  or  tops 
of  the  barrel  hoops  are  next  tied  to  these  rail  hoops.    This 
produces  a  skeleton  complete.    Paste  old  newspapers  to- 
gether and  lay  them  on  the  skeleton  to  get  a  good  pattern, 
and  cut  some  heavy  twilled  bed-ticking  to  fit  and  have  it 
sewed  together.     This  cover  is  put  on  and  over  the  frame, 
painted  and  dried  in  the  sun.— G.  F,  W. 


160 


BOATING  AND  YACHTING. 


482.  Mohicau  Boat  Tent. — The  Mohican  canoe, 
or  boat  tent  is  made  as  follows:  The  top  piece  is  of  can- 
vas, 22  inches  wide  and  6  to  7  feet  long.  At  each  end  a 
hern  is  turned  in,  to  take  a  round  stick,  three-fourths 
of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  22  inches  long.  Tho  sides 
and  ends  of  the  tent  are  made  of  striped  awning  stuff, 
which  comes  29  inches  wide,  so  that  three  breadths  may 


be  used.  The  tent  is  30  inches  wide  at  bottom,  and  about 
1  foot  longer  on  bottom  than  on  top.  The  sides  and  ends 
are  sewed  together  at  the  corners,  but  the  middle  breadth 
on  each  side  is  sewed  only  to  the  top,  making  a  curtain 
which  may  be  rolled  up,  as  shown.  These  curtains  lap 
over  the  adjoining  sides  a  little,  and  are  provided  with 
tapes  to  tie  them  fast.  The  bottom  of  the  tent  is  fitted 
with  grommets,  which  hook  over  small  screw  heads 
under  the  beading  of  the  deck.  The  tent  is  supported  by 
two  ropes  fastened  to  the  mast. 


CHAPTER  VII. 
HEALTH  HINTS  AND  REMEDIES. 


483.  Get  a  Doctor.  —The  Hints  in  this  chapter  are 
designed  to  indicate  such  treatment  as  can  be  applied  to 
relieve  a  sufferer  when  in  the  field  or  camp  until  the  doc- 
tor comes.    Where  there  is  any  serious  injury  or  illness, 
get  a  doctor  soon  as  possible. 

484.  Empty   Stomach.— Never  start  out  hunting 
or  tramping  on  an  empty  stomach. .  Eat  something  first, 
or  at  least  drink  a  cup  of  coffee. 

485.  A  "Cureall." — A  patent  medicine  known  as 
Rad way's  Ready  ReKef  is  one  of  the  best  "curealls"  to 
take  into  the  woods  or  upon  a  cruise.    It  takes  the  place 
of  arnica  and  witch  hazel  for  outward  application  to 
bruises,  burns,  cuts,  etc.,  and  taken  internally  it  conquers 
chills  and  allays  fevers.     It  is  a  nasty  dose  to  swallow. 

48O.  Emetic. — Gunpowder  dissolved  in  water,  fre- 
quent drafts  of  warm*  water,  ground  mustard  and  water, 
are  all  readily  obtainable  emetics.  The  last  one  is  the 
surest.  Mix  a  teaspoonf ul  of  ground  mustard  in  a  cup  of 
water,  give  two  or  three  drinks  of  it  and  follow  up  with 
twice  the  quantity  of  warm  water. 

487.  Sunburn. — After  having  been  exposed  all  day 
to  the  sun,  do  not  wash  the  face  at  night,  but  wait  until 
the  next  morning. 


162  HEALTH  HINTS  AND  REMEDIES. 

488.  Chapped  Hands.— Bathe  in  diluted  vinegar, 
well  rubbed  in, 

489.  Blistered  Feet.— Coat  the  inside  of  your  socks 
(woolen  are  best)  from  ankles  downward  with  common 
yellow  bar  soap,  repeating  the  application  for  two  or 
three  days.     Good  either  as  preventive  or  remedy. 

4OO.  Cold  Feet. — To  keep  the  feet  warm  dust  ground 
cayenne  pepper  in  the  shoes  between  the  sock  and  the 
leather. 

491.  Diarrhoea. — Mix  and  drink  a  tablespoonful  of 
wheat  flour  in  a  tumbler  of  cold  water. 

492.  Bleeding-  from  the  Nose.— Check  by  apply- 
ing cold  water  to  face  and  neck,  and  holding  a  sponge 
soaked  in  cold  water  to  the  nostrils.     Keep  the  head  well 
back  and  do  not  blow  the  nose. 

493.  Poisoning-  from  Poison  Ivy.— Bathe  in  a 
strong  lye  made  from  wood  ashes,  or  rub  on  the  dry  wood 
ashes  alone. 

494.  Poisoning    from    Poison    Ivy.— Take  one 
pint  bark  of  black-spotted  alder,  and  one  quart  water. 
Boil  down  to  one  pint.     Wash  the  poisoned  part  repeat- 
edly. 

495.  Poisoning  from  Poison  Sumach.— Apply 

strong  salt  and  water,  "as  strong  as  can  be  made,"  to  the 
affected  parts. 

49G.  Bite  of  Mad  Dog. — Apply  a  ligature  above 
the  wound  to  retard  the  circulation,  then  suck  the  poison 
from  the  wound  with  the  mouth,  being  careful  that  the 
lips  are  not  chapped  or  cut,  and  that  the  matter  extracted 
is  immediately  ejected.  If  no  doctor  is  about,  burn  off 
the  ragged  edges  of  the  wound  with  a  white-hot  iron  or 
stick  of  nitrate  of  silver.  Then  put  on  a  warm  poultice. 

497.  Bee  Stings. — Apply  salt  and  water  freely. 


HEALTH  HINTS  AND  REMEDIES.  163 

498.  Snake  Bites. — The  whole  idea  of  antidotes  is 
bad  and  misleading.     Any  and  every  stimulant  is  an  anti- 
dote physiologically  to  the  depressing  effect  of  the  snake 
poison.     So  it  will  be  well  to  give,  say,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  whisky  or  brandy  in  three  times  as  much  water, 
along  with  twenty-five  or  thirty  drops  of  aqua  ammonice 
or  spirits  of  hartshorn,  at  such  intervals  as  the  depression 
may  seem  to  demand.     Clear  the  bowels  by  an  enema  of 
warm  water  and  soap,  to  which  may  be  added  with  ad- 
vantage two  teaspoonfuls  of  spirits  of  turpentine.     If  the 
patient  has  been  bitten  by  a  copperhead,  assure  him  that 
the  bite  of  that  snake  scarcely  ever,  if  ever,  imperils 
human  life,  and  that  he  is  in  no  danger.     If  bitten  by  a 
rattlesnake,  tell  him  not  to  be  needlessly  alarmed;  that 
the  bite  of  this  snake  is  seldom  dangerous  if  left  to  itself, 
still  less  so  if  intelligently  treated.     Many  persons  bitten 
by  snakes  die  of  fright;    some  are  killed   by  excessive 
medication,   especially  by  fatal  quantities  of    alcohol. 
Some  few  persons  are  so  very  susceptible  to  the  influence 
of  the  venom,  that  they  die  of  its  effects  with  or  without 
treatment.     If  we  have  in  the  United  States  a  really 
deadly  snake,  it  is  the  so-called  venomous  water  mocca- 
sin of  the  Southern  States.—  M.  G.  Ellzey,  M.D. 

499.  Unconsciousness  from  Injury. — Put  the 

victim  on  his  back  and  loosen  the  clothing.  Administer 
hot  brandy  or  whisky  and  water,  a  teaspoonful  a  minute, 
for  ten  minutes.  If  he  remains  unconscious,  apply  hot 
cloths  or  a  hot  stone  wrapped  in  cloth  to  the  feet,  armpits 
and  pit  of  the  stomach. 

500.  Sunstroke.— This    results  partially  from  de- 
bility.    Its  first  symptoms  are  violent  pain  in  the  head, 
pain  and  weight  in  the  pit  of  the  stomach,  disordered 
vision  and  difficulty  of  breathing.     When  insensibility 
follows,  take  the  victim  to  a  cool,  shady  place,  put  him 
on  his  back,  with  his  head  slightly  raised,  loosen  the 
clothing  and  douse  with  cold  water  upon  face  and  chest 


164  HEALTH  HINTS  AND  REMEDIES. 

until  the  temperature  of  the  body  is  lowered  and  the  face 
becomes  pale.  Then  rub  thoroughly  dry,  and  give  some 
stimulant  unless  the  sufferer  is  of  an  apoplectic  nature. 

501.  Sprains. — Bathe  the  sprain  in  hot  water  from 
15  to  30  minutes,  as  hot  as  can  be  borne.     Wrap  then 
with  flannel  soaked  with  hot  water  and  cover  over  with 
dry  cloths.    Then  give  the  part  perfect  rest.    If  the  ankle 
is  sprained,  keep  the  foot  in  a  raised  position  on  a  pillow. 
A  cloth  saturated  with  arnica  and  water,  or  Radway's 
Eeady  Relief  and  water,  bound  around  the  part,  will  allay 
pain.     In  sprains  of  the  wrist  or  elbows  the  arm  should 
be  supported  in  a  sling.     Splints  have  to  be  used  some- 
times for  a  sprain  of  the  knee. 

502.  Dislocations. — Bones  thrown  out  of  joint  in 
the  lingers  may  bo  easily  pulled  into  place,  but  other  dis- 
locations had  best  be  put  up  in  splints,  the  limb  being 
always  kept  straight,  until  the  doctor  comes.     Elevate 
the  injured  member  to  lessen  pain  from  pressure  of  blood. 
Wet  cloths  and  cold  water  applications  will  allay  pain. 
To  make  splints  see  Hint  515. 

503.  Ruptured    Muscles.— Straighten  the  limb 
and  support  the  muscle  with  bandages.     Keep  the  limb 
still  for  from  one  to  three  weeks  for  the  fibers  to  reunite. 
If  the  muscle  is  moved  without  bandages  being  on  it  will 
be  weak  ever  after. 

5O4:.  Cramps. — Endeavor  to  straighten  the  limb, 
apply  warm  water  and  rub  vigorously  with  the  hand. 
If  cramped  while  bathing  make  a  sudden  energetic  effort 
to  extend  the  muscles  which  are  cramped, 

5O5.  Bruises. — Apply  cold  water,  or  weak  arnica 
and  water,  or  Radway's  Ready  Relief  and  water,  to  allevi- 
ate pain. 

5O(>.  Burns. — If  your  clothes  take  fire,  roll  over  and 
over  as  fast  as  possible  on  the  ground  or  floor  to  extin- 


HEALTH  HINTS  AND  REMEDIES.  165 

guish  the  fire.  If  your  wife's  clothes  take  fire,  throw  her 
down  and  wrap  your  coat  or  a  blanket  around  her,  tuck- 
ing it  around  the  neck  to  prevent  inhalation  of  flame. 
After  smothering  the  flame  douse  her  with  water  before 
smoldering  embers  eat  into  the  flesh.  If  severely  burned, 
cut  off  the  clothing  by  cuts  up  and  down  so  it  will  fall  off. 
Don't  pull  it  off,  for  the  skin  will  come  with  it.  If  cloth- 
ing sticks  to  the  flesh  in  places,  let  it  stick.  Tear  up  your 
linen  shirt  or  her  calico  apron,  handkerchief,  etc.,  dip 
the  cloths  into  any  kind  of  oil,  and  place  them  upon  the 
burned  parts.  If  you  have  no  cloths,  anoint  with  any 
kind  of  grease,  butter,  lard,  etc.,  or  powder  the  places 
with  flour  or  starch.  Use  warm  water  rather  than  cold, 
and  get  a  doctor  quick. 

507.  Scalds. — Drench  the  victim  at  once  with  cold 
water,  and  then  proceed  as  for  burns. 

508.  Frost  Bite. — Keep  out  of  a  warm  room,  re- 
move clothing  carefully,  rub  the  frozen  part  with  snow, 
or  with  ice  water  and  wet  cloths.     Keep  rubbing  until 
circulation  is  thoroughly  restored  before   warm  cloths 
are  applied  or  a  warm  room  is  entered.     Get  a  doctor,  as 
mortification  may  follow. 

5OO.  Wounds. — Lessen  the  bleeding  as  much  as 
possible.  Exert  pressure  immediately  over  the  wounded 
part,  and  apply  cloths  soaked  in  cold  water.  If  in  hand 
or  arm,  hold  above  the  head;  if  in  leg  or  foot,  lie  upon  the 
back  and  hold  up  the  leg  above  the  body.  If  the  blood  is 
bright  red  and  comes  in  spurts,  an  artery  is  injured,  and 
you  must  check  the  flow  by  pressure  upon  the  artery  be- 
tween the  wound  and  the  heart.  Wind  cloth  (your  sus- 
penders, if  elastic,  are  better)  tightly  around  the  limb, 
one  layer  above  the  other,  the  bandage  pressing  the 
artery  firmly.  Pour  on  cold  water  to  shrink  the  bandage. 
If  the  hemorrhage  is  severe,  put  a  stick  under  the  band- 
age and  twist  it  tight  until  the  bleeding  stops.  Let  the 
doctor  dress  the  wound  when  he  comes,  lut  meantime 


166          HEALTH  HINTS  AND  REMEDIES. 

cover  it  with  a  piece  of  linen  or  cotton  moistened  with 
cold  water  to  protect  it  from  the  air. 

5 1C.  Wounded  Hand.— If  a  finger,  press  upon 
both  sides  above  the  wound;  if  the  hand,  press  the  artery 
in  the  wrist  where  the  pulse  is  usually  felt. 

511.  Wounded  Arm.— Press  the  inner  side  of  the 
upper  arm,  or  bandage  a  block  of  wood  under  the  arm 
very  tightly. 

512.  Wounded  Foot  or  Leg-.— Check  bleeding  by 
bandage  over  the  large  artery  on  inner  side  of  the  thigh. 
Use  the  tourniquet  or  stick  to  twist  the  bandage  tight. 

513.  Wounded  Head  or  Face. — Press  over  the 
artery  at  the  front  side  and  base  of  the  neck  just  above 
the  collar  bone. 

514.  Wound  from  Fisli  Fin. — One  spoonful  each 
of  common  salt  and  gunpowder  and  the  white  of  an  egg, 
mixed  into  a  paste  and  applied  to  the  wound ;  bandage  as 
in  other  wounds.     As  mixture  becomes  dry,  apply  fre^h 
until  all  poison  is  extracted.     Keep  the  paste  moist  by 
covering  with  damp  cloth. — Wau-kau  mah. 

515.  Broken  Limbs.— When  a  bone  is  broken,  the 
victim  will  not  be  able  to  raise  the  limb;  it  will  be  bent 
or  shortened;  and  if  an  attempt  be  made  to  move  it,  it 
will  bend  where  it  ought  not  to.     Keep  the  sufferer  per- 
fectly quiet  and  as  comfortable  as  possible.     To  obtain  as 
perfect  rest  as  possible  for  the  limb  until  the  doctor 
conies,  fasten  it  to  some  support.   Splints  may  be  made  of 
sticks,  laths,  stiff  cardboard,  cigar  boxes,  etc.     To  make 
them  conform  to  the   shape  of  the  limb,  wind    them 
thickly  with  strips  of  cloth,  pieces  of  blankets,  clothing, 
etc.     On  the  splints  place  a  padding  of  grass,  straw  or 
cotton  wool,  to  prevent  chafing.     Cover  the  pads  with 
cloth.    Fasten  splints  to  the  limb  by  pieces  of  cloth,  sus- 
penders, handkerchiefs,  etc. 


HEALTH  HINTS  AND  REMEDIES.  167 

516.  Broken    Upper  Ann.— Make   four   splints, 
reaching  from  shoulder  to  elbow,  pad  well,  and  place  one 
in  front  of  the  arm ,  the  longest  one  behind,  and  one  on 
each  side.     Bandage,  and  put  forearm  in  a  sling, 

517.  Broken    Forearm.— Use   two   splints  from 
elbow  to  the  finger  tips,  one  on  the  palm  side  of  the  hand 
and  one  on  the  back  of  the  hand.     Put  the  forearm  in  a 
sling  across  the  body  with  palm  inward. 

518.  Broken  Thigh.— Instead  of  splints,  bind  both 
legs  firmly  together. 

519.  Broken  Leg".— If  the  tibia  is  fractured  it  will 
show  by  the  displacement  under  the  skin  at  the  front  of 
the  leg.    Make  a  splint  to  reach  from  knee  to  bottom  of 
foot.    If  the  fibula  (the  bone  concealed  by  the  calf)  is 
broken,  bandage  from  the  knee  down,  and  the  tibia  will 
act  as  a  splint. 

520.  Broken  Collar  Bone.— This  fracture  is  in- 
dicated by  an  unusual  projection  on  one  side,  with  a 
drooping  forward  of  that  shoulder  and  pain  in  the  region. 
Find  a  piece  of  log  2  or  3  inches  thick  and  6  inches  long, 
and  wrap  cloth  around  it  until  you  have  a  pad  4  inches 
thick.     Place  this  under  the  arm  next  the  fractured  bone 
and  bind  the  arm  perpendicularly  to  the  side  by  a  band- 
age around  the  body. 

521.  Broken  Ribs. — Fracture  of  one  or  more  ribs 
is  indicated  by  pain  in  the  affected  side  when  taking  a 
full  breath.     Overlap  the  undercoat  as  tight  as  possible 
and  pin  or  tie  it  tightly  around  the  body.     Let  the  suf- 
ferer lie  on  the  affected  side  and  get  a  doctor  quick. 

522.  Restoring  the  Apparently  Drowned.— 
To  Remove  Water  from  Lungs  and  Stomach. 

(Rule  I. ,  Fig.  1.)— Instantly  place  patient  face  downward,  a 
hard  roll  of  cloth  being  placed  beneath  the  pit  of  the  stom- 
ach, to  raise  it  as  much  as  possible  above  the  level  of  the 


168 


HEALTH  HINTS  AND  REMEDIES. 


mouth.  Put  one  wrist  of  the  patient  under  his  forehead 
to  raise  his  mouth  off  the  ground.  With  hands  well 
spread  upon  the  patient's  back,  above  the  roll  of  clothing, 
throw  upon  it  your  whole  weight  with  a  forward  motion, 
and  keep  up  the  pressure  about  three  seconds,  so  as  to 
force  all  water  from  the  stomach  and  lungs  out  of  the 

FIG  1 


mouth,  ending  the  pressure  with  a  push  which  will  help 
to  jerk  you  back  to  your  upright  position.  Repeat  this 
once  or  twice,  and  then  quickly  proceed. 

523.  To  Make  the  Patient  Breathe.— (Rule  II., 
Fig.  2.) — Turn  the  patient  face  upward,  the  same  roll 
of  clothing  being  now  beneath  his  back,  the  shoulders 
slightly  drooping  over  it.  Bend  head  backward  and 
downward,  putting  throat  on  the  stretch  to  the  utmost. 
Place  the  hands  of  the  patient  on  top  of  his  head  (one 
twist  of  a  handkerchief  or  string  around  the  crossed 
wrists  will  keep  them  there).  Rip  or  strip  all  clothing 


HEALTH  HINTS  AND  REMEDIES.  169 

from  waist  and  neck.  Now  kneel  astride  the  patient's 
hips.  Grasp  the  front  part  of  the  chest  on  both  sides  of 
the  pit  of  the  stomach,  your  thumbs  pointing  to  patient's 
chin,  and  your  fingers  fitting  into  the  grooves  between 
the  short  ribs.  Fix  your  elbows  firmly,  making  them 
one  with  your  sides  and  hips,  and  then,  firmly  pressing 

JIG.  2 


the  sides  of  the  patient  together,  and  using  your  knees  as 
a  pivot,  throw  yourself  slowly  forward  for  two  or  three 
seconds  until  your  face  almost  touches  the  face  of  your 
patient,  and  your  whole  weight  presses  upon  his  chest. 
End  this  pressure  with  a  short  push  which  suddenly  jerks 
you  back  again  to  the  upright  kneeling  position.  Rest 
three  seconds  while  the  ribs  spring  back;  then  repeat  this 
bellows-blowing  movement  as  before,  gradually  increas- 
ing the  rate  from  seven  to  ten  times  a  minute;  but  take 
the  utmost  care,  on  the  occurrence  of  a  natural  gasp,  not 
to  interrupt  it;  but,  as  the  ribs  fall,  gently  press  them 
and  deepen  the  gasp  into  a  longer  breath.  Continue  this 
until  the  natural  breathing,  which  you  are  imitating, 
needs  no  further  assistance.  If  all  fails  keep  on,  because 
any  moment  within  an  four's  effort  you  may  unex- 
pectedly be  rewarded  with  success0  Avoid  impatient 
vertical  pushes;  the  force  must  be  upward  and  inward, 


170          HEALTH  HINTS  AND  REMEDIES. 

increased  gradually  from  zero  to  the  maximum  the  age, 
sex,  etc.,  may  indicate.  If  a  second  person  be  present 
and  can  do  it,  the  tongue  should  be  held  out  of  one  corner 
of  the  mouth  by  the  thumb  and  finger,  armed  with  a 
piece  of  dry  cotton  or  linen  rag  (Fig.  2,  a). — London 
Lancet. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 
FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING. 


Prepared  for  Forest  and  Stream  by  the  Late  Thaddeus  Norris. 

524.  Tools. — If  the  learner's  fingers  are  delicate  and 
he  has  good  use  of  them,  it  is  better  to  dispense  with  some 
of  the  mechanical  appliances  used;  but  for  one  whose 
digits  are  clumsy  or  who  lacks  a  free  use  of  them,  I  would 
recommend  the  two  simple  little  instruments  drawn  to 
one-half  the  actual  size  below.  The  vise,  of  course,  is 


for  holding  the  hook;  tlie  smaller  tool  is  a  spring  plier,  cr 
as  some  term  it,  a  pair  of  pliers,  for  holding  the  end  of  a 
thread  or  hackle,  and  conveniently  used  for  wrapping  the 
latter  on  the  hook. 

525.  Materials.— These  of  course,  in  quantity  and 
variety,  will  depend  much  on  the  angler's  wants  as  to  the 
different  flies— few  or  many — he  may  wish  to  produce. 
A  country  boy  will  go  to  his  mother's  hen  roost  and  get 
all  the  feathers  he  wants,  and  by  making  a  slight  raid  on 
his  sister's  work  basket  for  silk  and  worsted,  construct  a 
very  effective  fly,  rough  and  unkempt  though  it  may  be 


172  FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING. 

to  look  at.  I  will  mention  nearly  all  the  materials  that  I 
use  myself  and  in  the  order  in  which  they  are  applied  to 
the  hook. 

.  526.  Wrapping  Silk.— The  finer,  if  strong,  the 
better;  and  although  the  color  should  in  some  degree  cor- 
respond to  the  other  material  used,  this  is  not  of  much 
consequence,  as  it  is  only  seen  in  the  few  slight  wrappings 
at  the  head  of  the  fly. 

527.  Wax  —Do  not  use  "cobbler's"  wax,   as  some 
English  writers  on  this  subject  call  it,  but  beg  or  make  a 
little  expressly  for  the  purpose.     Take  one  ounce  of  the 
clearest  and   lightest  rosin  you  can  procure,  one  dram 
of  gutta  percha,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  linseed  oil — the 
crude,  not  the  boiled— put  them  in  a  teacup  (I  use  the 
lower  part  of  a  discarded  tin  blacking  box),  heat  them, 
stirring  with  a  little  stick  the  meanwhile,  to  have  them 
thoroughly  amalgamated,  and  then  pour  the  hot  com- 
pound into  a  bowl  of  cold  water0    As  soon  as  it  has  cooled 
sufficiently,  work  and  pull  it,  much  as  girls  pull  " taffy;" 
this  makes  it  light  colored  and  tough.   If  the  gutta  percha 
cannot  be  easily  obtained  it  may  be  omitted,  but  it  adds 
to  the  toughness.      To  make  .the  wax  softer  for  cold 
weather,  add  a  few  drops  of  oil.     To  make  it  harder  for 
warm  weather,  add,  as  you  require,  a  little  more  rosin. 

528.  Hooks. — There  is  much  difference  of  opinion 
as  to  their  proper  shape  for  flies.     The  point  of  the  barb 
of  the  O'Shaughnessy  has  an  outward  projection.     It  is 
what  is  called  a  hollow  point,  and  the  chances  of  hooking 
the  fish  are  thereby  increased.     The  point  of  the  Kinsey 
projects  inward  away  from  the  line  of  draft,  and  is  there- 
fore less  liable  to  catch  than  the  Sneck  bend,  the  Aber 
deen  or  the  old  Kendal.     Conroy  imports  the  improved 
Limerick  hooks  to  order,  of  lighter  wire — from  No.  6  to 
No.  12 — than  those  he  has  for  general  sale,  which  I  think 
are  too  stout,  and  rather  clumsy.     The  Kirby,  the  hook- 


FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING.  173 

ing  quality  of  which  is  superior  to  all  others,  if  short 
shanked,  may  be  used  for  palmers  and  hackles,  but  for 
winged  flies  the  sideward  inclination  of  the  point  would 
give  the  wings  of  the  fly  "a  list"  to  one  side,  and  prevent 
its  floating  on  an  "even  keel." 

521).  Gut — Should  be  fine  for  stretcher  and  stout  for 
drop  flies,  for  the  latter  using  a  half  length.  If  the  drop- 
pers are  intended  to  be  looped  to  the  leader,  the  loops 
should  be  tied  in  each  end  of  the  length  after  soaking  the 
gut,  the  projecting  end  pulled  tight  and  cut  off  close,  and 
then  the  length  divided  into  two.  Gut  dyed  a  neutral 
tint,  between  a  blue  and  lead  color,  is  done  as  follows: 
Throw  your  hank  of  gut  into  a  basin  of  cold  water,  and 
while  it  is  soaking  put  into  a  small  vessel — tin  will 
answer — a  pint  and  a  half  of  water  with  1  dram  of  ground 
logwood  and  6  grains  of  copperas.  After  it  has  com- 
menced boiling  let  it  bubble  10  minutes  longer;  then, 
dashing  the  water  from  the  gut,  throw  it  in  and  press  it 
down  with  a  small  stick.  In  30  seconds  or  so  lift  it  to  see 
the  depth  of  tint,  and  continue  to  examine  and  immerse 
it  until  it  suits  your  fancy.  A  light  tint  I  consider  pref- 
erable. Some  persons  think  that  the  dye  affects  the 
strength  of  the  gut.  This  is  not  the  case  unless  there  is 
too  much  copperas;  much  more  than  I  have  prescribed. 

530.  Tinsel.— Gold  or  silver,  as  it  is  called,  but 
really  "Dutch  metal, r'  whether  round  or  flat,  is  kept  by 
variety  or  military  stores,  or  the  country  reader  can  ob- 
tain the  flat  kind  from  some  dealer  in  Irish  linens,  as  it  is 
frequently  used,  ornamentally,  in  putting  them  up. 

531.  Dubbing. — The  materials,  and  they  are  many, 
of  which  the  bodies  of  flies  are  wrapped  are,  first,  and 
most  important,  peacock  herl,  or  "harl,"  as  some  persons 
call  it — the  little  plumelets  or  fibers  growing  on  each  side 
of  the  tail  feathers  of  the  peacock.     The  copper- colored, 
for  nine  flies  out  of  ten,  is  preferable;  the  green  is  used 


174  FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING. 

for  fancy  flies.  The  next  is  mohair,  or  the  ravelings  of 
a  fabric  called  "moreen,"  or  pig's  wool,  growing  on  cer- 
tain parts  of  the  animal  beneath  the  bristles,  or  seal's 
wool,  the  most  brilliant  of  all — all  of  which  can  be  dyed 
of  many  colors;  or  the  fur  of  a  rabbit,  squirrel,  monkey  or 
other  animal.  Add  to  these  wrapping  floss  silk,  and  the 
list,  I  believe,  is  complete. 

532.  Hackles. — The  hackle  is  intended  to  represent 
the  legs  of  a  winged  fly,  or  without  the  wings  some  imag- 
inary caterpillar  insect,  which  trout  take  for  a  reality. 
There  are  saddle  and  neck  hackles.     The  former  are  the 
long  streamers  growing  on  each  side  of  a  cock's  rump,  the 
latter  are  plucked  from  the  back  of  the  neck — the  closer 
to  the  head  the  shorter  the  hackles  and  stifTer  the  fibers. 
Having  stouter  stems  than  the  saddle  hackles,  they  are 

.  less  apt  to  break  in  winding  on.  The  older  the  cock  the 
stiffer  the  fibers;  but  as  old  cocks  are  not  always  obtain- 
able 1  avail  myself  of  the  good  terms  I  am  on  with  several 
poultry  dealers  to  pluck  the  heads  and  necks  of  their 
capons.  Natural  hackles  are  more  generally  used  in 
tying  trout  flies  than  others.  Then  there  are  those  the 
fibers  of  which  are  red  at  the  stem,  or  say  at  the  roots, 
and  black  on  the  outer  edges  of  the  feather,  and  fre- 
quently black  at  the  stem  and  red  at  the  outer  edges; 
both  of  which  are  called  furnace  hackles.  There  are  also 
light  yellowish  red,  termed  "ginger  hackles."  Black 
hackles  are  essential  in  tying  dark  flies.  Gray  are  used 
in  tying  dun  colored  flies  when  dun  hackles,  which  are 
very  scarce,  are  not  to  be  had.  Add  to  these  the  ginger- 
barred  and  black-barred  on  a  white  ground,  and  we  have 
most  of  the  natural  or  undyed  colors.  The  feathers  from 
the  wren's  tail,  from  the  ruff  of  the  grouse,  from  the 
partridge  and  snipe,  and  the  short  spotted  feathers  of  the 
guinea  fowl  are  occasionally  used,  but  they  are  soft  of 
fiber  and  poor  substitutes  for  cock's  hackles. 

533.  Wings.— The  feathers  of  which  the  wings  of 


FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING.  175 

flies  are  made  are  numerous.  Those  of  the  mallard,  teal, 
redneck,  sheldrake,  woodduck  and  other  wildfowl  cor- 
respond in  position  to  the  saddle  hackles  of  the  cock,  and 
are  what  ornithologists  term  "tail  coverts."  Few  others, 
except  the  secondary  wing  feathers  of  the  redneck,  can- 
vasback  and  teal  are  used.  The  tail  coverts  of  ducks  are 
difficult  of  manipulation  on  account  of  their  extreme 
delicacy  and  lightness.  Of  all  feathers  from  the  wings 
of  birds  or  domestic  fowls,  the  secondary  only  are  good; 
the  pinions  are  worthless.  If  a  man's  arms  were  wings 
the  pinions  would  be  found  growing  from  the  wrist  to 
the  tips  of  the  fingers,  the  secondaries  from  the  elbow  to 
the  wrist.  The  great  variety  of  plumage  in  domestic 
fowls  produced  by  crossing  and  interbreeding  has  fur- 
nished some  invaluable  feathers  to  the  fly- maker,  espe- 
cially to  the  beginner ;  these  are  in  nearly  every  case  the 
secondaries  of  hens.  They  are  much  easier  of  manipu- 
lation than  the  tail  coverts  of  wild  ducks  or  the  short- 
fibered  wing  feathers  of  birds,  and  in  all  cases  should  be 
used  instead  by  the  tyro  when  he  can  get  them  near  the 
shade  or  markings  of  any  duck's  feathers  he  may  admire. 
The  Earl  Derby,  the  dark  brahmas,  and  most  of  the 
various  crossings  producing  so  many  shades  of  brown  and 
mixed  colors  furnish  them.  White  secondaries  are  used 
for  the  wings  of  the  moth  fly  or  white  miller,  as  also  for 
the  coachman.  Dun  feathers  are  almost  as  difficult  to  pro- 
cure as  dun  hackles.  Red  ibis  of  course  will  be  seized  on, 
as  well  as  the  crest,  ruff,  back  and  breast  feathers  of  the 
golden  pheasant.  Turkey,  the  secondary  and  tertiary,  as 
well  as  the  tail  feathers,  also  come  into  play;  so  also  do 
some  of  the  wing  feathers  of  the  wild  goose.  English 
bluejay,  macaw  and  parrot,  and  golden  pheasant  are 
used  almost  entirely  in  tying  salmon  flies.  The  guinea 
hen  may  also  be  includtd. 

534.  At  the  Work  Table.— When  seated  at  the 
table  where  you  are  to  tie  your  flies,  have  two  paper 


176  FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING. 

boxes,  each  about  16  inches  long,  4  deep,  and  5  wide.  Or 
removing  the  top,  the  sides  toward  you  fall  by  little  mus- 
lin hinges  on  the  table.  The  boxes  are  divided  by  little 
pasteboard  uprights,  each  into  five  apartments  of  equai 
width.  In  the  first  apartment  of  the  box  on  the  left  are 
bits  of  feather  used  for  the  tails  of  flies,  viz.,  the  tail 
coverts  of  mallard,  teal,  sheldrake  and  woodduck;  feath- 
ers from  the  crest,  ruff,  back  and  breast  of  the  golden 
pheasant,  red  ibis,  parrot,  macaw  and  a  few  dyed  feath- 
ers. The  second,  third  and  fourth  apartments  are  for 
the  feathers  for  wings,  and  the  fifth  contains  hackles. 
These  feathers  are  neatly  folded  in  slips  of  paper,  and 
placed  in  large  sized  envelopes,  which  have  the  names 
written  at  the  top  of  the  back.  They  set  edgewise  in  the 
box,  with  the  inscriptions  all  facing  the  same  way,  so 
that  by  passing  the  fingers  over  them  you  can  easily  find 
the  feathers  you  are  about  to  use.  The  box  to  the  right 
contains,  each  in  its  proper  apartment,  hooks  in  little 
boxes,  the  size  marked  on  top  and  bottom,  hand  vise, 
spring  pliers,  picker,  wax,  a  pair  of  sharp  scissors  3£ 
inches  long  with  blades  1  inch  long  arm  i  inch  wide,  a 
small  flat  piece  of  India  rubber  for  straightening  gut, 
wrapping  silk  of  various  colors  and  degrees  of  fineness, 
floss  silk,  peacock  and  ostrich  herl,  and  the  different 
kinds  of  dubbing  as  enumerated  in  Hint  531.  Such 
methodical  arrangement,  while  not  necessary,  will  pre- 
vent confusion. 

535.  Tying  a  Hackle.— Suppose,  first,  we  tie  the 
simplest  hackle,  say  a  ginger  on  a  No.  6  hook.  If  you  use 
the  vise,  fasten  the  hook  between  the  jaws,  then  take  a 
piece  of  wrapping  silk  of  the  required  length,  say  a  foot 
or  14  inches,  and  rolling  a  mite  of  wax  as  large  as  a  BB 
shot  between  forefinger  and  thumb,  draw  the  silk  through 
twice.  With  the  hook  in  the  position  shown  on  the  an- 
nexed illustration,  whether  held  by  the  vise  or  between 
the  thumb  and  forefinger  of  the  left  hand,  take  five  or  six 


FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING. 


Ill 


turns  around  the  shank  of  the  hook,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1. 
Then,  laying  on  the  gut,  commence  quite  close  to  the 
head  and  wrap  down  to  A,  Fig.  2.  Here,  with  three 


turns  of  your  wrapping  silk,  fasten  in  the  floss,  A  B,  and 
laying  the  wrapping  silk  along  the  shank,  tuck  it  in 
between  the  gut  and  the  head  of  the  hook,  and  throw  a 
few  loose  coils  around  the  gut  to  keep  it  out  of  the  way. 
Now  wind  on  your  floss  as  far  as  (7,  Fig.  3,  increasing  the 
bulk  of  the  body  some  what  as  you  proceed;  then  throw  the 


178  FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING. 

loose  coils  of  wrapping  silk  free  from  the  gut,  and 
take  three  turns  over  the  floss  and  clip  off  the  end.  You 
next  take  your  ginger  hackle,  about  the  length  figured, 
and  stroking  back  a  few  fibers  at  the  point  and  clipping 
off  the  end,  lay  it  against  the  hook  and  fasten  in  with 
four  or  five  turns  and  wrapping  up  to  within  a  sixteenth 
of  an  inch  or  so  of  the  head,  throw  a  few  loose  coils 
around  the  gut  as  before.  Now  wrap  on  your  hackle 
closely,  pressing  back  the  fibers  as  you  go  to  avoid  over- 
lapping them.  On  getting  as  near  the  head  of  the  hook 
as  shown  in  the  illustration,  fasten  the  hackle  with  two 
or  three  turns,  clip  off  the  ends,  and  throwing  the  wrap- 
ping into  coil  D  F  D,  seize  it  at  F  and  take  as  many  turns 
as  will  come  to  the  very  end  of  the  shank.  Now  reversing 
the  turns,  with  the  gut  through  the  coil,  you  draw  on  the 
end  D  until  the  wrapping  forming  the  coil  is  drawn  tight. 
Your  fly  now  after  clipping  off  the  surplus  wrapping  is 
complete,  needing  only  a  touch  of  copal  varnish,  with  a 
small  camel's  hair  brush  at  the  head  to  make  it  secure. 
The  tying  of  this  simple  hackle  is  the  all-important  rudi- 
ment of  the  art. 

536.  A  Hackle  with  Tinsel.— Go  back  to  Fig.  2 
and  suppose  A  B  a  strip  of  flat  gold  tinsel,  which  you  have 
fastened  in  with  three  turns  of  the  wrapping  and  thrown 
the  latter  in  a  few  loose  coils  around  the  gut.  Take  three 
turns  of  the  tinsel,  perhaps  four,  or  even  five  if  the  hook 
is  large,  down  the  shank  closely,  so  as  to  hide  the  hook, 
and  then  as  many  turns  back,  and  after  fastening  with 
two  or  three  turns  of  the  wrapping,  cut  off  the  end  of  the 
tinsel.  We  will  vary  the  body  of  this  hackle  by  having 
it  of  peacock's  herl.  Take  four  or  five  herls  between  the 
thumb  and  finger  of  the  left  hand  and  clip  them  off 
evenly,  lay  them  on  where  you  have  just  clipped  off  the 
tinsel,  and  take  two  or  three  turns  over  the  ends  which 
project  toward  the  head  of  the  hook.  Now,  laying  your 
wrapping  silk  along  the  herls,  twist  both  herls  and  wrap- 


FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING.  179 

ping  silk  slightly,  winding  in  the  meanwhile  as  far  up  the 
shank  of  the  hook  as  you  intend  the  body  to  extend,  then 
fastening  in  the  hackle  proceed  as  already  described. 

537.  Bodies  of  Other  Material. — Fur,  rnohair, 
pig's  wool  and  seal's  wool  are  spun  on  in  the  same  way. 
A  raveling  of  any  fabric,  for  instance  moreen,  may  be 
fastened  and  wound  on  as  floss  silk.     In  making  a  very- 
large  body  to  a  fly  it  is  a  matter  of  economy  when  using 
floss  silk,  to  wrap  first  with  darning  cotton,  or  similar 
material.     It  matters  but  little  as  to  the  color,  as  the  floss 
covers  it.     In  making  a  body  of  mohair,  fur,  or  pig's 
wool,  the  requisite  quantity,  after  a  little  pulling,  is 
placed  in  the  palm  of  the  left  hand  and  rolled  into  the 
shape  of  an  oblong  cone.     The  smaller  end  is  then  applied 
to  the  lower  end  of  the  body,  and  twisting  or  spinning  it 
in  with  the  wrapping  silk,  it  is  wound  up  the  body,  which 
is  to  be  increased  in  bulk  as  you  near  the  space  intended 
for  the  hackle.     The  wild  hairs  of  the  dubbing  should  be 
clipped  off,  so  also  should  awry  fibers  of  the  hackle  after 
winding  on.     The  picker  (a  darning  needle,  head  stuck 
into  a  small  cork,  will  answer  for  this  little  implement), 
when  required,  is  brought  into  requisition  in  arranging 
and  straightening  the  irregular  fibers  after  winding  on 
the  hackle. 

538.  Palmer  Hackle. — To  make  a  palmer  hackle 
proceed  as  instructed  to  A,  Fig.  2;  and  after  putting 
on  the  tinsel,  if  it  is  required,  fasten  in  the  tip  end  of  the 
hackle,  then  the  material  of  which  the  body  is  composed. 
Now  you  have  tinsel,  hackle  and  dubbing  tied  in,  and  the 
rule  is  that  the  material  fastened  in  last  is  wound  on  first, 
so  you  wind  on  your  dubbing,  fasten  it  a  little  below  the 
head  of  the  hook,  and  then  taking  three,  four  or  five 
turns  of  the  tinsel  in  the  same  direction,  you  fasten  it 
also.     Now  you  wind  on  your  hackle  just  behind  and 
close  to  the  tinsel,  and  as  you  get  near  the  head  of  the 
hook  disregard  the  tinsel  and  take  a  few  close  turns  of 


180 


FLJES  AND  FLY  MAKING. 


the  hackle,  fastening  it,  clipping  it  off  and  finishing  as 
already  directed.  In  a  palmer  the  fibers  of  the  hackle 
should  stand  out  much  thicker  at  the  shoulders  and  head 
of  the  fly  than  along  the  body. 

531).  Making  the  Wings. — From  the  accompany- 
ing cut  it  will  be  seen  that  the  fibers  incline  toward  the 
top  end  of  the  feather.  Now,  each  of  these,  on  the  sides 


where  they  come  in  contact,  if  examined  with  a  micro- 
scope, will  be  found  to  contain  a  regular  series  of  little 


FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING.  181 

hooks,  if  I  may  so  call  them,  forming  a  connection  or  in- 
terlocking with  a  similar  series  on  the  adjoining  fiber.  If 
you  cutout  a  section  (Fig.  2),  and  doubling  it  form  Fig.  3, 
the  fibers  at  the  outer  end  of  your  wing  will  be  of  an  un- 
equal length  and  require  pinching  or  clipping  off  of  the 
ends  after  it  is  tied  on.  You  will  therefore,  holding  the 
stem  of  the  feather  in  your  left  hand,  stroke  back  the 
fibers  gently  and  gradually,  forcing  the  little  hooks  to 
lose  the  original  connection  with  their  fellows  on  the 
adjoining  fibers  and  form  others,  until  you  get  them  to 
stand  out  at  right  angles  with  the  stem.  After  forcing 
as  many  back  as  will  form  your  wing,  clip  them  off  with 
your  scissors  and  double  them  with  the  under  side  of  the 
feather  inward,  and  your  one  wing,  representing  a  pair 
of  wings,  is  ready  to  tie  on. 

54O.  Wing's. — A  certain  school  of  fly  makers  tie  on 
the  wings,  or  more  properly  the  wing,  last  of  all,  and  in 
making  an  elaborate  fly  it  is*  the  proper  way,  but  in  ordi- 
nary trout  flies  the  wing  should  be  put  on  immediately 
after  wrapping  on  the  gut.  Some  old-fashioned  makers 
maintain  that  a  pair  of  wings  should  be  put  on,  each  one 
separately.  This  is  certainly  unnecessary,  for  most  of  the 
natural  flies  we  observe  on  the  water,  if  alive,  have  their 
wings  folded  together,  appearing  as  one.  Especially  is 
this  the  case  with  the  Ephemeridce,  which  are  most 
numerous. 

541    Putting  on  the  Wings  (English  Method). 

—If  it  is  the  last  thing  done,  holding  the  smoothly  folded 
mass  of  fibers  together  between  the  thumb  and  forefinger 
of  your  right  hand,  lay  it  on  the  back  of  the  hook,  the 
ends  of  the  fibers  extending  as  far  back  as  you  propose  to 
have  the  length  of  the  wing,  pressing  it  down  firmly; 
then  bring  the  forefinger  and  thumb  of  your  left  hand 
into  action,  and  releasing  the  hold  with  your  right,  take 
two  or  three  turns  of  your  wrapping  silk;  look  to  see  if  it 
sets  right,  and  then  with  one  or  two  more  wrappings, 


182  FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING. 

close  and  neat,  you  fasten  off  with  the  invisible  knot,  as 
described  in  Hint  535,  and  so  your  fly  is  complete. 

542.  Putting"  on  the  Wings  (the   American 
Method). — Holding  the  hook  as  already  described,  take 
four  or  five  turns  of  the  wrapping  silk  about  two-thirds 
of  the  way  up  from  the  bend  to  the  head,  then  laying  on 
the  gut,  continue  wrapping,   but  closely,  leaving  just 
enough  of  the  hook  to  fasten  and  finish  off;  lay  on  the 
wing,  the  convex  edge  beneath,  and  the  end  in  the  re- 
verse direction,  i.  e.,  outward  along  the  bare  gut;  then, 
holding  the  wing  firmly  in  position,  take  two  or  three 
turns  of  the  wrapping,  being  careful  that  the  wing  does 
not  turn  over  toward  the  opposite  side  of  the  hook  (look 
at  it  to  see  that  it  sets  properly);  continue  down  the  shank 
with  a  half  dozen  or  more  turns,  and  then  clip  off  the 
root  ends  of  the  fibers,  which  of  course  are  pointing  to- 
ward the  bend  of  the  hook.    Your  wing  is  now  secure, 
with  the  point  or  end  reversed.     Continue  wrapping  over 
gut  and  hook  until  you  come  opposite  the  point  of  the 
latter;  then  put  on  your  tinsel,  clipping  off  the  surplus 
end,  then  your  dubbing,  extending  it  well  up  toward  the 
head,  and  leaving  the  space  to  be  occupied  by  the  hackle 
about  half  as  much  as  that  so  occupied  when  tying  a  fly 
without  wings.     Here  you  fasten  in  the  hackle  firmly, 
winding  it  on  up  to  the  point  where  you  commenced 
tying  on  the  wing;  .secure  the  end  of  the  hackle  with 
three  turns  of  your  wrapping,  clipping  off  the  surplus  end, 
then  double  back  the  wing  into  its  intended  position, 
take  two  or  three  turns  over  the  head  or  butt  end,  and 
finish  off  with  the  invisible  knot. 

543.  Putting  on  the  Wings  (Shorter  Method). 

— A  quicker  way  of  putting  on  the  wings  is,  after  stroking 
back  the  fibers,  and  bringing  them  at  right  angles  to  the 
stem  of  the  feather,  to  double  them  into  the  shape  of  the 
wing,  and  then,  with  a  quick  jerk,  pluck  it  by  the  roots 
from  the  stem.  The  wing  is  then  laid  on,  and  the  fly  pro- 


FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING.  183 

ceeded  with  as  just  described.  The  wing  should  extend 
backward  just  so  far  that  the  tip  of  it  conies  immediately 
over  the  bend  of  the  hook.  The  fibers  of  the  hackle 
should  hardly  be  long  enough  to  reach  the  same  place, 
and  the  hackle  itself  should  not  be  mere  than  two-thirds 
the  length  of  stem  required  for  a  hackle  or  palmer  fly. 

544.  Facts   about  Wings.— One  would  suppose, 
before  he  tried  it,  that  the  wing  cut  or  torn  from  the 
stem,  as  described,  would  be  square  at  the  tip  end  when 
tied  on.     A  trial  will  prove  that  the  end  will  be  oval  or 
elliptical,  resembling  the  wings  of  a  natural  fly.     The 
learner,  of  course,  will  find  that  in  tying  back  the  wing, 
if  the  turns  of  the  wrapping  silk  are  too  near  the  butt 
end  of  the  head,  the  wing  will  set  too  perpendicularly, 
and  that  if  the  turns  of  the  wrapping  are  too  far  back  it 
will  set  too  close  to  the  body.     The  body  in  a  well  pro- 
portioned fly  extends  rather  beyond,  opposite  the  point  of 
the  hook.     If  the  wing  is  too  long  it  should  be  shortened 
by  a  vigorous  pinch  of  the  thumb  nail  and  forefinger. 

545.  Wings  with   Floss  Body.— The    mode    of 
clipping  off  the  butt  ends  of  the  wing  close  up  to  the 
head  of  the  fly  answers  in  most  cases,  for  instance  for  a 
herl,  or  mohair,  or  fur  body,  but  when  we  intend  to 
make  a  floss  body,  the  surplus  part  of  the  wing  should 
be  clipped  off  in  a  direction  slanting  toward  the  bend 
of  the  hook;  so  that  in  wrapping  over  it  with  the  floss 
the  body  will  taper,  handsomely  increasing  in  bulk  as  it 
nears  the  place  where  you  intend  to  fasten  in  the  hackle. 
In  tying  flies  one  becomes  appreciative  of  the  minute- 
ness of  spaces,  and  in  putting  on  tinsel,  or  in  the  length 
of  the  body,  or  in  finishing  off  at  the  head  as  much  as 
may  be  occupied  by  one  or  two  turns  of  the  finest  wrap- 
ping silk  is  easily  judged  of. 

546.  Tails. — In  putting  on  the  tail  much  nicety  is  to 
be  observed.     Of  course  it  is  placed  precisely  oh  top  of 


184  FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING. 

the  hook,  and  the  fibers  of  feathers  of  which  it  is  com- 
posed should  curve  upward  and  set  gracefully.  If  it  be 
a  plain  body,  as  in  the  fly  called  the  hare's  ear,  it  is  tied 
in  on  completing  the  wrapping  on  of  the  gut.  If  tinsel 
ornaments  the  end  of  the  body,  it  should  be  put  on  first 
and  then  the  tail.  If  the  body  is  intended  to  be  wrapped 
with  tinsel,  it  should  hang  loose  while  putting  on  the 
tail,  and  then  wound  spirally  over  the  dubbing  with  two, 
three;  four  or  five  turns,  as  the  case  may  be. 

547.  Fastening"  and  Wrapping. — Remember  that 
the  material  fastened  in  last  is  wrapped  on  first.     Sup- 
pose, for  instance;  you  wish  to  make  a  winged  fly  with  a 
palmer  body.     After  the  tail  is  on,  tie  in  the  end  of  the 
hackle,  and  then — firstly,  wrap  on  the  dubbing;  secondly, 
the  tinsel;  thirdly,  the  hackle,  following  closely  behind 
the  turns  of  the  tinsel;  and  it  makes  a  better  looking  fly 
to  wrap  the  hackle  much  more  closely  on,  getting  up 
under  the  wings,  making  it  a  little  more  "buz,"  as  it  is 
frequently  termed.     A  fly  is  said  to  be  buz  when  the 
hackle  is  wrapped  on  thick  and  it  looks  "bushy."    Some 
makers  use  two  or  three  half  hitches  in  finishing  off  at  the 
head.     The  invisible  knot  is  as  easily  tied  and  much  more 
secure. 

548.  Salmon  Flies. — The  cuts  of  salmon  flies  given 
here  are  copied  from  "The  Book  of  the  Salmon,"  with 
the  exception  of  the  second.     They  are  introduced  to 
show  what  are  "feelers,"  and  "topping?,"  and  "loops," 
and  "collars,"  "heads  and  shoulders,"  "tags,"  etc.     We 
scarcely  ever  use  a  more  elaborate  salmon  fly  than  the 
second  for  the  waters  of  the  Dominion.     A  salmon  fly  or 
one  of  Whitney's  flies  tied  for  the  Maine  waters,  the 
"toodlebug,"  for  instance,   or  one  of  my    own    mixed 
wings  made  for  the  same  waters,  unless  the  river  was 
very  high,  would  scare  all  the  Nipissiquit  or  Cascapediac 
or  Restigouche  salmon  out  of  a  pool.    A  knowledge  of 
the  technical  names  of  the  minor  appurtenances  of   a 


FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING.  185 


186  FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING. 

salmon  fly  is  not  essential  to  one  who  plies  his  17-foot 
withe,  or  scarcely  to  one  who  makes  his  own  flies  for 
American  rivers,  but  to  be  thorough  we  must  name  all 
the  little  adjuncts  and  accessories.  The  third  and  fourth 
flies  depicted  are  much  too  large  for  the  rivers  of  Canada 
at  an  ordinary  stage  of  water.  The  third  might  do  0n 
very  high  water  after  it  has  gone  down  just  enough  for 
the  fish  to  commence  noticing  the  fly. 

549.  Parts  of  the  Salmon  Fly. — Examine  the 
third  figure.  The  tail  is  what  is  usually  called  a 
"topping,"  i.  e.,  feather  from  the  crest  of  the  golden 
pheasant.  The  body  is  wrapped  with  floss  silk,  ribbed 
with  gold  twist,  i.  e.,  stout  gold  thread,  which  is  followed 
by  a  hackle  almost  to  the  head,  where,  as  will  be  ob- 
served, another  feather  is  tied  on,  a  blue  jay,  for  what  is 
termed  a  "shoulder."  There  is  a  mixed  wing  of  golden 
pheasant  neck,  teal,  guinea  hen  and  light  brown  turkey, 
with  a  topping  much  longer  than  the  tail  surmounting 
the  wing.  The  head  is  of  black  ostrich  herl,  wound  on 
closely,  both  for  ornament  and  to  hide  the  butt  end  of 
the  wing  where  it  is  clipped  off.  Referring  to  the  fourth 
figure,  a  "tag"  just  at  the  butt  of  the  tail.  A  tag  may  be 
of  ostrich  herl,  or  pig's  or  seal's  wool,  or  floss.  The 
"feelers" — which  by  a  great  stretch  of  imagination  are 
supposed  to  represent  the  antennae  of  a  natural  fly — are 
the  two  long  fibers  of  macaw  tail  feather  tied  in  on  each 
side  of  the  head  and  extending  back  over  the  wings;  and 
another  stretch  of  imagination  is  to  suppose  that  a  natural 
fly  carries  them  thus. 

55Oo  The  Nicholson  Fly.— The  second  figure  is  a 
very  plain  fly,  the  "blue  and  brown,"  or  Nicholson, 
named  after  an  old  salmon  fisher,  "a  broth  of  a  boy,"  of 
St.  Johns,  New  Brunswick.  There  are  a  few  turns  of  flat 
gold  tinsel,  or  gold  twist,  then  a  tail  of  mallard  and 
golden  pheasant's  ruff;  the  body  of  reddish  brown  seal's 
or  pig's  wool,  wrapped  with  a  blue  and  reddish  brown 


FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING.  187 

hackle;  the  wings  are  of  mallard,  and,  according  to  Mr. 
Nicholson's  style  of  tying,  stand  well  up.  The  size  of 
the  hook  gi\  en  is  for  high  water,  when  the  dubbing  and 
hackles  are  of  lighter  shades.  As  the  water  falls  the 
hackles  and  dubbing  should  be  darker.  On  low  water 
and  bright  weather  dark  brown  and  purplish  blue  are 
best;  the  hook  decreasing  in  size  as  the  water  falls.  In 
fact,  trout  hooks  numbers  3  and  4  (Conroy's  O'Shaugh- 
nessy's  numbers)  are,  as  a  general  rule,  large  enough  for 
the  rivers  of  Canada;  numbers  1  and  2  are  full  size  for 
high  water. 

551.  Materials  for  Plain  Salmon  Fly.— Take  a 
fly  with  one  hackle,  say  the  "fiery  brown."    Lay  all  the 
materials  before  you — a  short  topping  for  tail,  a  bit  of 
gold  twist  (3in.  or  so),  fiery  brown  dubbing  of  mohair  or 
pig's  or  seal's  wool,  a  hackle  of  redder  shade  than  the 
dubbing,  the  wing  ready  folded,  a  plumelet  of  ostrich 
herl,  a  bit  of  blue  and  yellow  macaw  tail  feather,  and  a 
gut  loop.     The  latter  is  so  cut  that  when  doubled  it  will 
be  long  enough  to  come  about  where  the  tail  is  tied  on, 
the  ends  to  be  beveled,  and,  bending  it  over  a  coarse 
needle  or  an  awl,  an  eye  should  be  formed,  as  is  not  repre- 
sented in  the  illustration.     The  wings  of  a  salmon  fly,  as 
a  general  rule,  should  be  double,  or  eay  two-ply,  for  mal- 
lard, of  which  most  wings  are  made,  is  very  light,  and 
requires  delicate  handling.     In  preparing  it,  stroke  back 
the  fibers  gently  and   firmly  until  all  their  ends  are 
square,  clip  off  with   your  scissors,  and  lay  it  on  the 
table;  prepare  another  in  the  same  way,  and  lay  it  on  top 
of  the  first,  placing  it  where  it  is  not  apt  to  be  disturbed. 

552.  Tying1  the  Fly.— Use  the  small  vise.    Firstly, 
secure  the  hook  well  between  its  jaws;  secondly,  wax 
your  silk,  and  commencing  near  the  bend,  wrap  up  to  the 
head  with  a  dozen  or  so  turns;  thirdly,  laying  on  the  gut 
loop  warp  down  opposite  the  bend,  perhaps  a  few  turns 
below;  fourthly,  lay  on  the  gold  twist,  secure  the  end,  and 


188  FLJSS  AND  FLY  MAKING. 

winding  it  three  or  four  turns  back,  opposite  the  point  of 
the  hook,  fasten  it,  allowing  the  surplus  to  stand  out- 
ward toward  the  head;  fifthly,  put  on  the  topping  for 
tail  so  that  it  curves  handsomely  upward  and  secure  it 
with  two  turns  of  the  wrapping  silk;  sixthly,  fasten  in 
the  tip  end  of  the  hackle,  the  back  uppermost;  seventhly, 
having  pulled  and  picked  your  dubbing  and  rolled  it  in 
the  palm  of  your  hand  into  a  conical  shape  (very  little  is 
required),  twist  in  the  small  end  with  your  wrapping  silk, 
and  spinning  both  silk  and  dubbing  almost  up  to  the  head, 
fasten  with  a  half  hitch;  eighthly,  twirling  your  vise, 
follow  with  four  turns  of  the  gold  twist,  fasten,  and  then 
follow  close  behind  with  the  hackle,  the  under  side  next 
to  the  dubbing.  You  are  now  ready  to  put  on  the  wing. 
There  are  two  ways — one  is,  after  doubling  it  to  tie  it  on  as 
described;  another  is,  not  to  double  but  to  lay  it  flat  on  the 
top  of  the  hook  with  the  forefinger  and  thumb  of  the  right 
and  compress  it  with  the  corresponding  fingers  of  the  left 
hand;  bending  the  two  edges  of  the  wing  so  that  an  equal 
proportion  will  enfold  the  hook  on  both  sides.  Now  with 
your  wrapping  silk  take  two  turns;  look  to  see  that  the 
wing  is  put  on  evenly  and  sets  properly,  and  taking  a 
half  dozen  more  turns  make  it  secure  with  a  half  hitch. 
Putting  on  the  feelers  to  have  them  set  uniformly  is  a 
nice  job.  The  pair  should  be  taken  from  opposite  sides  of 
the  blue  and  yellow  macaw  tail  feather;  that  on  the  far 
side  to  be  fastened  in  with  two  turns  of  the  wrapping, 
then  that  on  the  near  side.  In  making  the  head,  observe 
that  the  black  ostrich  herl  has  a  convex  and  concave  side, 
and  is  to  be  wrapped  on  very  closely  with  the  convex 
side  outward  toward  the  eye  of  the  loop.  Clip  off  the  sur- 
plus butt  end  of  the  herl  and  fasten  with  the  invisible 
knot.  With  a  small  sharp  stick  dipped  into  copal,  var- 
nish the  last  wrapping  of  the  silk,  being  careful  not  to  let 
it  touch  the  herl.  When  mallard  is  scarce  the  under  ply- 
of  the  wing  may  be  of  turkey,  making  it  more  solid  than 
if  it  was  all  mallard.  As  a  rule  salmon  flies  are  wrapped, 


FLIES  AND  FLY  MAKING.  189 

palmer  fashion,  that  is,  the  hackle  over  the  whole  length 
of  the  body.  The  bodies,  as  will  be  observed,  are  very 
slender  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  fly. 

553.  The  Scissors  in  Fly-Making.— Do  not  put 

your  finger  and  thumb  into  the  bows  or  oval  openings, 
but  lay  that  part  of  the  implement  in  the  palm  of  your 
hand  and  with  the  thumb  and  fingers  work  the  blades. 
A  little  practice  in  this  way  will  enable  one  to  pick  out 
and  clip  off  a  single  fiber  of  the  hackle  or  wing  with  great 
nicety. 


CHAPTER    IX. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 

554.  Tight  Shells. — If  cartridges  become  swollen 
with  dampness  and  fit  too  tight,  sprinkle  them  with 
powdered  soapstone. 

555.  Gruii  Cleaner  for  the  Field.— To  the  end  of 

a  cord  a  little  longer  than  the  gun  barrel  tie  a  small  lead 
sinker;  to  the  other  end  tie  a  barich  of  cloth  that  will 
fill  the  barrel  tightly.  Drop  the  leaded  end  through  the 
barrel  and  pull  the  cloth  after  it. 

556.  Loads  for  Game.— The  U.  M.  C.  club  shells 

are  loaded  as  follows. 

10-Gauge.  12-Gaugc. 

Shooting  Powder  Shot    Size    Powder  Shot    Size 


rirs. 
Woodcock        .                     .3% 

oz.      shot. 
1            10 

drs. 
3 

oz. 
1 

shot. 
10 

^Voodcock  4 

U£         10 

1 

10 

Snipe                            .  .    ..4 

1^          9 

3J4 

iu 

9 

Quail  4 

114           8 

&A 

1 

8 

Quail  and  prairie  chicken.4^4 
Prairie  chicken  4^4 
Bluerqck,  Ligowsky,  etc..  4 
Live  pigeons,  etc  4V*> 

lj|           8 

1*4           8 
VA           8 
\y±         8 

8 
8 
8 
8 

Ruffed  grouse,  teal,  etc.  .  A1A 
Pintail  and  bluebill  4% 
Mallard                 .                4>| 

1J4          7 

1*1           6 

jix           5 

1| 

ii 

7 
6 

5 

Redhead                                4V<a 

VA           4 

g«7 

ji/ 

4 

Canvasback  4^g 

1J4           3 

sia 

iC^ 

3 

Turkey  5 

1^6         2 

go? 

1V^ 

2 

Goose  and  brant  5 

IH       BB 

3M 

J^IX 

BB 

557.  '  Shot.—  American 
yJo  inch  diameter;    dust,    T 
No,  11,  T?u  inch;  No.  10,  T|h> 

standard 
fo   inch; 
inch;  No. 

sizes: 
No.   1 

9,  Tu8ir 

Fine 

-*,     To  TJ 

inch; 

dust, 
inch; 

No,  8, 

MISCELLANEO  US. 


191 


7g7T  inch;  No.  7,  VJfc  inch;  No.  6,  -^-inch;  No.  5,  -,%-  inch; 
No.  4,  -Afr  inch;  No.  3,  +fo  inch;  No.  2,  -A,*-;  No.  1,  -A% 
inch;  No.  B,  ^  inch;  No.  BB,  -£ft  inch;  No.  BBB,  f0ao 
inch. 

558.  Wood  Powder  Cartridges  contain  the  fol- 
lowing proportions  of  powder  and  shot: 


Gauge. 

Quantity  of  Powder, 
drains. 

Quantity  and  Size  of  Shot. 

12 
12 
10 
10 
12 
10 

3^             Primed. 
3%  to  4, 
4     to  4^, 
4%  to  5, 
3U    Extra  Strength. 

1%           cz.No.7  7Ti 
J^tolH  "  No.  7  7 
1J4                 No.  7  7 
m                 No.  7  7 
lf|                No.  7  7 
1J4                No.  7  7 

ap&8Sl 
**8 
"8 
U8 
"8 
tfc8 

lot 

559.  Reamed  Cartridge.— After  the  paper  shell 
is  loaded  the  end  should  be  cut  off  evenly  about  half  an 
inch  above  the  wad.  The  shell  should  be  turned  down 


smoothly  and  firmly  on  to  the  wad,  as  shown  in  the 
cut.    Tools  for  this  purpose  are  supplied  by  gun  dealers. 

56O.  Indented  Cartridge. — This  shell  should  not 
be  cut  down.  The  paper  shell  is  cut  out  and  turned  over 
on  to  the  wad,  as  shown  in  the  cut. 


192 


MISCELLANEO  US. 


561.  Creased  Cartridge.— This  shell  should  not  be 
cut  off  at  the  end.     The  creasing  is  made  just  above  and 


pressing  on  to  the  wad.    The  cut  shows  the  machine  and 
the  creased  cartridge. 

562.  Crimping  Shells.— A  simple  way  to  crimp 
shells,  and  one  which  has  worked  well,  is  to  simply  press 


down  two  opposite  sides  of  the  shell  (with  the  back  of  a 
pocketknife)  upon  the  charge,  leaving  the  shell  with  two 
projecting  points,  as  in  the  cut. 

563.  Creedmoor  Targets  are  divided  into  three 
classes,  and  are  of  the  following  sizes:  1.  Third  Class, 
to  be  used  at  all  distances  up  to  and  including  300  yards, 
target  4x6  feet;  bullseye,  circular,  8  inches  in  diameter; 
center,  circular,  26  inches  in  diameter;  inner,  circular,  46 
inches  in  diameter;  outer,  remainder  of  target.  2.  Second 
Class,  to  be  used  at  all  distances  over  300,  to  and  including 
600  yards,  target  6x6  feet;  bullseye,  circular,  23  inches  in 
diameter;  center,  circular,  38  inches  in  diameter*  inner, 


MISCELLANEOUS.  193 

circular,  54  inches  in  diameter;  outer,  remainder  of  target. 
3.  First  Class,  to  be  used  at  all  distances  over  600  yards; 
target  6x12  feet;  bullseye,  circular,  36  inches  in  diameter; 
center,  circular,  54  inches  in  diameter*;  inner,  square,  6x6 
feet;  outer,  remainder  of  target.  Bullseye  counts  5,  cen- 
ter 4,  inner  3,  outer  2.  Standard  American  Target  is 
divided  into  circles,  the  innermost  one  of  3.36  inches 
diameter  (counting  10),  the  next  one  5.54  inches  (count- 
ing 9),  8-inch  circle  (counting  8),  11-inch  circle  (counting 
7),  14.80-inch  circle  (counting  6),  19.68-inch  circle  (count- 
ing 5),  26-inch  circle  (counting  4),  46-inch  circle  (count- 
ing 3),  and  remainder  of  target,  4x6  feet,  counts  2. 

564.  Rifle  Cartridges  are  described  by  the  caliber, 
the  powder  charge  and  the  weight  of  the  bullet;  thus, 
.32-40-185,  which  means  a  .32-caliber  shell  loaded  with 
40  grains  of  powder  and  a  bullet  weighing  185  grains. 

565.  Long-Range  Rifle  Positions. — The  natural 
position  at  long-range,  where  it  is  desired  to  get  the  very 
steadiest  hold  on  the  rifle,  is  that  shown  in  Fig.  1.     It  is 


FIG.  i. 

the  old  deer-stalker's  position  and  is  assumed  by  every 
marksman  when  he  first  drops  for  a  shot  from  the 
ground.  It  was  the  position  taken  by  all  the  long-range 
small-bore  experts  when  this  class  of  work  first  opened 
at  Creedmoor  and  Wimbledon.  It  was  soon  found,  how- 
ever, that  the  long  overhang  of  the  barrel  made  steady 
holding  difficult,  and  there  was  a  searching  about  for  a 
manner  of  holding  which  would  come  within  the  rule 
of  any  position  without  artificial  rest  and  yet  give  the 
shooter  a  steadier  control  of  his  weapon,  Yale  and  Fowle 


194 


MISCELLANEO  US. 


of  the  old  time  Creedmoor  shots,   Milner  of  the  Irish 
team  when  that  body  came  over,  each  had  very  easy  rests. 


FIG.  2. 


The  Farquharson  position  of  Wimbledon  was  introduced 
in  this  country  by  Major  Fulton  and  is  shown  in  Fig.  5. 


FIG.  3. 


Blydenburgh  had  a  position  in  which  the  recoil  of  the 
gun  was  taken  up  by  the  hands,  as  shown  in  Fig,  4. 


FIG.  4. 


W.  Burnham  of  Chicago  had  a  peculiar  twist  illustrated 


MISCELLANEOUS.  195 

in  Fig.  2.     There  were  dozens  of  various  twistings  of 
the  human  body  and  some  were  very  acrobatic.     Each 


FIG.  5. 


shooter  found  that  he  could  get  the  easiest  and  steadiest 
grip  on  his  rifle  by  taking  a  certain  position.  With  the 
rear  sight  set  on  the  heel  of  the  butt  a  long  line  of  sight 
was  made  possible,  and  this  arrangement  could  be  secured 


FIG.  6. 


in  several  of  the  positions  assumed.  With  military  rifles 
the  sling  came  in  as  a  factor  in  taking  up  a  position. 
Thrown  over  the  knee  or  with  the  foot  in  the  loop  the  re- 
coil was  taken  up  by  the  legs  and  the  body  left  clean  of 


FIG.  7. 


shock,  while  a  long  sight  could  be  taken  without  keeping 
the  body  in  a  constrained  position  and  without  having 


196  MISCELLANEOUS. 

the  heaving  of  the  chest  in  breathing  throw  the  sights  out 
of  line  with  the  target.  In  long-range  position,  what  was 
very  convenient  for  one  was  the  very  reverse  for  another. 

566.  Tubular  Bullet.— A  Mr.  A.  Weed  recently 
sent  to  the  Forest  and  Stream,  one  of  his  bolt  bullets  in 
which  he  leaves  an  opening  down  the  entire  length.     He 
has  made  them  of  several  calibers,  .38,  .40  and  .45,  and 
in  each  case  the  work  has  been  of  the  best  sort,     The 
front  of  the  bullet  is  cut  square  off,  and  the  forward  end 
slightly  countersunk;  an  opening  of  about  one-third  the 
diameter  is  then  carried  down  the  center  of  the  bolt, 
leaving  a  heavy  tube  of  about  the  same  weight  as  the 
ordinary  bullet.     When  fired  it  is  found  to  fly  with  a 
very  low  trajectory,   and  when  hitting  any  hard  sub- 
stances, as  a  plank,  the   hole  is  cut  clean  and  neat  in 
outline,  but  when  fired  into  a  log,  and  the  log  is  split  for 
examination,  the  superior  destructive  powers  of  the  new 
bullet  are  at  once  shown. 

567.  Split   Bullet.— A  form  of    bullet  to  secure 
smashing  effect  is  shown  in  the  accompanying  cut.     The 


head  of  the  bullet  is  split  down,  as  illustrated,  and  the 
cuts  are  filled  with  tallow  or  wax. 

568.  Dog's    Temperature.  —  The  dog's  normal 
temperature  is  99.4*   Fahrenheit.     The   temperature   is 
ascertained  by  holding  a  clinical  thermometer  between 
the  fore  shoulder  and  the  trunk  (axilla}. 

569.  Exercise  for  Dogs  on  Chain. -^Run  a  wire 
from  stake  to  stake  and  as  long  as  the  yard  will  allow; 
attach  the  dog's  chain  to  the  wire  by  a  sliding  ring,  so 
he  can  run  back  and  forth  from  one  end  to  the  other, 


MISCELLANEO  US. 


197 


57O.  To  Kill  a  Dog-  Humanely.— If  it  is  neces- 
sary io  kill  a  dog  by  shooting,  the  ball  should  be  delivered 


at  the  point  and  in  the  direction  shown  by  the  dotted  line 
in  the  accompanying  diagram. 

571.  To  Kill  11  Horse  Humanely. — A  horse  may 


be  killed  by  shooting,  in  the  most  expeditious  and  merciful 
manner  by  striking  the  spot  shown  in  the  cut  herewith. 


198  MISCELLANEOUS. 

572.  Grun-Sliyness.— While  our  pup  is  still  young 
he  should  be  taught  to  love  the  sound  of  a  gun.  This 
can  be  easily  accomplished  if  the  proper  course  is  pur- 
sued. In  the  first  place  we  take  a  couple  of  old  tin  pans, 
and  while  his  attention  is  attracted  by  something  that 
interests  him  we  strike  them  together,  lightly  at  first;  and 
if  he  appears  to  be  afraid  we  are  very  careful  not  to  add 
to  his  fright  by  a  repetition  of  the  noise  anywhere  near 
him,  but  tako  the  pans  quite  a  distance  from  his  pen  and 
leave  them,  and  wait  awhile  before  trying  again.  When 
it  is  time  to  feed  him  we  go  to  the  pans,  and  while  sound- 
ing our  whistle,  as  before  described,  to  let  him  know  that 
we  are  coming,  we  give  a  stroke  just  loud  enough  for 
him  to  hear  plainly,  and  at  once  proceed  to  his  pon  and 
give  him  his  feed.  By  pursuing  this  course  for  a  few 
days,  and  gradually  going  a  little  closer  every  time,  he 
will  become  accustomed  to  the  sound,  and  learning  that 
the  noise  is  connected  with  our  coming,  and  also  his  din- 
ner; he  soon  gets  used  to  it,  and  in  a  short  time  will  stand 
the  racket  without  flinching.  When  he  has  become  so 
accustomed  to  the  noise  that  he  shows  no  signs  of  fear  at 
quite  a  loud  crash  it  is  time  to  try  him  with  the  gun.  In 
order  to  do  this  understandingly  you  will  require  an  assist- 
ant. Let  him  take  the  gun  loaded  with  a  light  charge  of 
powder  and  at  some  iittle  distance — say  forty  or  fifty 
yards  away — and  be  ready  at  your  signal  to  fire.  You 
will  now  enter  his  pen,  and  after  he  gets  a  little  quiet 
call  him  to  you  and  put  a  piece  of  meat  before  him  and 
bid  him  Toho,  at  the  same  time  raising  your  hand  as 
a  signal  for  the  gun.  Carefully  watch  him,  and  should 
he  display  any  &ign  of  fear  the  experiment  must  be  re- 
peated as  with  the  pans.  There  is  no  need  of  your  pres- 
ence only  to  notice  how  he  behaves,  and  you  can  dispense 
with  your  assistant,  unless,  as  will  probably  be  the  case, 
he  does  not  mind  the  report,  when  the  gun  can  be  brought 
nearer,  and  you  can  make  another  trial.  Great  care  must 
be  taken  not  to  frighten  him  with  too  loud  a  discharge, 


MISCELLANEOUS.  199 

nor  should  it  be  too  close  to  him,  until  he  gets  used  to  it. 
By  paying  close  attention  to  him  when  under  fire,  you 
can  readily  tell  how  far  it  will  do  to  go,  and  by  properly 
conducting  your  experiment  you  can  soon  teach  him  to 
love  the  sound  of  the  gun,  even  when  fired  over  his  head; 
indeed,  we  have  cured  in  this  way  some  of  the  worst 
cases  of  gun-shyness  that  we  ever  saw.  Comparatively 
few  dogs  are  gun-shy,  and  it  is  with  these  only  that 
those  precautions  are  necessary.  After  your  pup  has 
been  carefully  accustomed  to  the  noise,  do  not  lay  your 
gun  aside  as  soon  as  you  have  accomplished  your  object, 
but  let  him  hear  the  sound  occasionally  until  his  educa- 
tion is  complete,  taking  good  care  that  the  discharge  of 
the  gun  is  at  once  followed  by  something  pleasing  to  him 
— his  dinner,  for  instance — or  let  it  be  a  prelude  to  giving 
him  his  liberty,  thus  giving  him  to  understand  that  the 
noise  means  something,  and  soon  the  noise,  or  even  the 
sight  of  the  gun,  will  cause  him  pleasurable  emotions 
that  he  will  never  forget. — Hammond's  "Training  vs. 
Breaking." 

573.  Otter  Trapping.—  A  narrow-necked  peninsula 
in  the  bend  of  a  creek  or  river  is  almost  certain  to  be 
crossed  by  the  narrow  path  of  the  otter,  and  a  point  of 
land  extending  out  into  a  lake  is  a  favorite  romping 
place.     Where  the  slide  of  the  otter  terminates  at  the 
edge  of  the  water  is  the  safest  place  for  the  new  beginner 
to  set  his  trap,  provided  that  the  slide  shows  that  the  ani- 
mal always  enters  or  leaves  the  water  at  the  same  place. 
If  the  water  is  shallow  at  the  bank  of  the  lake  or  stream, 
the  trail  often  spreads  out  on  approaching  the  water, 
showing  that  the  otter  enters  the  water  at  any  one  of  half 
a  dozen  places.     Such  a  spot  is  to  be  avoided. 

574.  Water  Set.— Get  a  Newhouse  trap,  No.  3  in 
size,  go  to  the  spot,  either  in  a  boat  or  by  wading  along 
in  the  edge  of  the  water  from  a  point  on  shore  three  or 
four  rods  distant  from  the  otter's  trail,  having  the  trap 


200  MISCELLANEOUS. 

opened  ready  for  setting,  and  a  strong  stake  well  sharp- 
ened inserted  in  the  ring  of  the  trap  chain.  Now  we  are 
ready  to  set  the  trap  without  making  any  disturbance 
above  water.  Arrived  at  the  spot,  select  the  point  where 
it  appears  that  the  otter  will  step  when  next  he  conies 
that  way,  and  in  water  about  6  inches  deep,  smooth  the 
bottom  to  make  a  good  place  for  the  trap;  place  the  trap 
so  that  the  jaws  will  spread  out  on  each  side  of  the  otter's 
line  of  approach,  extend  the  chain  full  length  up  or  down 
the  stream,  and,  with  a  hatchet  brought  for  the  purpose, 
drive  the  stake  firmly  into  the  bottom,  with  the  top  of  the 
stake  driven  below  the  surface  of  the  water.  Then  if 
the  top  of  the  stake  is  bright  in  color  like  green  timber, 
gather  some  mud  from  the  bottom  and  smear  over  it. 
Now  gently  sift  some  mud  in  the  water  above  the  trap, 
until  a  very  thin  coat  of  soft  mud  hides  any  brightness 
of  the  trap  from  view.  Wade  back  to  where  the  stream 
was  first  entered,  having  been  careful  not  to  touch  the 
bank,  and  the  trap  is  set  in  the  manner  known  as  the 
"water  set."  Another  good  water  set  may  sometimes  be 
obtained  in  the  center  of  the  channel  of  a  narrow  stream, 
on  shallow  rapids.  Two  things  must  be  carefully  noted 
here.  First,  that  the  otter  does  not  travel  on  the  shore  at 
this  point,  and,  secondly,  that  a  point  be  selected  for  the 
trap  where  the  channel  is  narrow  and  the  water  shallow. 

575.  Land  Set.— This  is  much  more  difficult,  yet 
if  done  properly  is  much  the  better  set  of  the  two.  At 
some  certain  point  on  the  otter's  line  of  travel  on  the 
land,  and  commonly  near  the  top  of  a  bank  down  which 
he  has  a  regular  slide,  is  a  spot  selected  by  this  strange 
animal  for  voiding  excrement.  He  will  travel  for  long 
distances  to  reach  this  spot  rather  than  do  so  at  any  other 
place.  Sometimes  it  is  deposited  all  in  one  heap,  and 
sometimes  scattered  over  a  space  a  rod  or  so  in  diameter. 
If  it  is  not  in  one  pile,  the  trapper,  making  as  few  Bteps 
as  possible,  must  gather  the  dried  accumulations  and 


MISCELLANEOUS.  201 

deposit  them  on  the  greatest  heap  already  formed,  ana 
having  a  perfectly  clean  trap  ready  (some  trappers  prefer 
having  the  trap  well-smoked  with  the  smoke  of  dried 
grass),  together  with  the  stake  for  fastening,  proceed  to 
dig  a  hole  in  the  ground  with  the  blade  of  the  hatchet,  in 
front  of  the  heap  of  excrement,  and  about  a  foot  distant 
from  the  edge  of  it,  on  the  side  next  to  the  otter's  trail, 
using  the  fingers  as  little  as  possible  to  avoid  leaving 
scent.  Dig  just  deep  and  wide  enough  to  hold  the  trap, 
and  use  all  possible  skill  in  covering  the  trap,  to  have 
just  as  little  matter  covering  it  as  may  be  and  have  it 
well  hidden,  in  order  that  the  trap  jaws  be  not  hindered 
from  gripping  firmly  when  sprung,  and  to  leave  the 
general  appearance  of  the  ground  the  same  as  before  the 
trap  was  set.  Be  careful  also  to  set  the  trap  so  that  the 
jaws  lie  open  on  each  side  of  the  otter's  line  of  approach. 
Now  drive  the  stake  below  the  surface  of  the  ground  and 
cover  it  and  the  chain  carefully.  The  job  is  now  com- 
plete, and  the  trapper  —  who  of  course  will  have  been 
careful  not  to  blow  his  nose  or  spit  tobacco  juice  near  the 
trap—  walking  carefully  away,  and  on  afterward  coming 
to  visit  it  once  in  two  or  three  days  will  only  approach 
near  enough  to  see  that  the  trap  is  all  right,  stands  a  very 
good  chance  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  the  sleek  brown 
creature  with  the  much  coveted  overcoat,  provided  his 
work  has  been  well  done.  —  "  Uncle  Fuller"  in  Forest  and 
Stream. 


Crawfish  for  Bait.  —  To  preserve  crawfish 
for  bait  in  large  numbers,  pack  in  wet  sawdust  and  ealt, 
or  brine.  Scalding  will  discolor  them.  A  little  saltpetre 
added  to  the  salt  will  improve  the  pickle. 

577.  Trout  Temperature.—  Water  for  trout 
should  not  be  above  a  temperature  of  70°,  tested  by  a 
thermometer  at  the  bottom, 


202 


MISCELLANEO  US. 


578.  Parts  of  Fish.— Whitefish  (Coregonus  albula): 
1,  mandible;  2,  maxilla;  3,  supplemental  maxillary  bone; 


4,  pre-operculum;  5,  inter-operculum;  6,  operculum;  7, 
sub-operculum ;  8,  pectoral;  9,  lateral  line;  10,  ventral 
appendage;  11,  ventral;  12,  vent;  13,  anal;  14,  caudal; 
15,  dorsal;  1C,  adipose  dorsal. 

579.  Parts  of  Fish. — Black  bass  (Micropterus  sal- 
moides): — 1,  mandible;  2,  inter-maxilla;   3,  maxilla;    4, 


13 


pre-operculum;  5, inter-operculum;  6,  operculum;  7,  sub- 
operculum;  8,  ventral;  9,  pectoral;  10,  lateral  line;  11, 
vent,  12,  pre-anal  spine?;  13,  anal;  14,  spinous  dorsal; 
15,  soft  dorsal;  16,  caudal. 


MISCELLANEOUS.  203 

58O.  Viscera  of  Black  Bass.— 1,  air  bladder;  2, 


gill-rakers;  3,  heart;  4,  liver;  5,  pyloric  coeca;  6,  etomach; 
7,  spleen;  8,  spermary;  9,  intestine. 

581.  Black  Bass,  Large-mouth  and   Small- 

Moutli. — The  large-mouth  (Micropterus  salmoides)  is 
distinguished  from  the  small-mouth  (M.  dolomieu  thus: 
In  the  large-mouth  the  upper  jaw  or  maxilla  (see  579) 
extends  far  behind  the  eye;  in  the  small-mouth  the  max- 
illa extends  to  a  point  below  the  eye.  The  large-mouth 
has  from  sixty-five  to  seventy  rows  of  scales  between  the 
gill-openings  and  the  base  of  the  tail;  the  small-mouth 
seventy-two  or  more;  the  large-mouth  about  ten  oblique 
rows  on  the  cheek,  the  small-mouth  seventeen;  in  the 
large-mouth  are  seven  and  a  half  to  eight  rows  between 
the  lateral  line  and  the  dorsal,  in  the  small-mouth  eleven. 

582.  Smelt  Fishing, — Smelts  are  fished  for  with 
the  lightest  of  tackle,  say  with  Nos.  10,  9,  8  or  7  Limerick, 
or  20,  19  or  18  Kinsey  hooks,  of  which  three  or  four 
should  be  used  at  short  distances  apart  on  the  leader. 
Such  tackle  as  would  be  used  for  perch  fishing,  only  with 
more  hooks.     Clam  make  good  bait,  or  a  piece  of  liver. 


204  MISCELLANEOUS. 

583.  Minnow  Life  Preserver.  —  An  ingenious 
contrivance  for  aerating  the  minnow  bucket  consists  of  a 
rubber  tube  with  a  bulb.  The  end  of  the  tube  is  inserted 


in  the  water  and  the  pressure  of  the  bulb  forces  in  the 
air,  which  means  life  to  the  bait,  and  removes  the  neces- 
sity of  frequently  changing  the  water. 

584.  Flies  and  Insects. — Do  not  throw  dishwater 
nor  garbage  near  the  tent;  they  will  attract  flies,  ants 
and  other  insects. 

585.  Cold  Tea  or  Cold  Water  can  be  kept  cold 
by  wrapping  the  jug  or  bottle  in  flannel  kept  wet  with 
water  and  exposing  to  sun  and  wind  to  promote  evapor- 
ation. 

586.  Camp    Cooking.— Stale    bread    or    crackers 
fried  in  butter  or  pork  grease  make  a  good  dish.     Cut 
up  cold  potatoes,  put  into  the  pan  with  milk  or  butter, 
add  a  little  water  and  warm  through. 

587.  Keeping'  Game. — After   drawing   feathered 
game  hang  it  up  by  the  head.     Meat  may  be  kept  fresh 
for  some  days  in  the  hottest  weather  by  immersing  in  a 
jar  of  water  and  covering  the  surface  with  oil,  or  melted 
butter  or  pork  fat. 


MISCELLANEOUS.  205 

588.  Game  in  Cam  p. — The  best  thing  to  do  with 
meat  when  flics  are  troublesome  is  to  raise  it  on  a  pole  as 
high  above  the  ground  as  may  be  convenient.     On  the 
top  of  a  pole  from  25  to  30  feet  in  height  flies  will  seldom 
rind  meat,  and  it  is  practically  secure  from  their  attacks. 

589.  Game  Should  Not  Be  Packed  until  it  is 
thoroughly  cooled. 

590.  Do  Not  Camp  under  dead  trees;  they  may  be 
blown  down  on  you. 

591    Match    Safe. — Into    an   unprimed    10-gauge 
metal  shell  slip  an  unprimed  12-gauge  shell. 

592.  To   Care   Raw   Hides.— This  recipe  is  for 
sheep  and  buckskins,  and  may  answer  for  caribou  and 
beef  skin,  taking  more  time:    Take  two  parts  of  saltpetre 
and  one  of  alum;  pulverize  them  well  together;  spread 
the  skin  carefully,  fur  side  down,  before  it  has  got  dried; 
apply  the  mixtures  evenly,  being  careful  to  touch  every 
part  in  sufficient  quantity  to  thoroughly  wet  the  surface 
after  it  dissolves;   double  the  flesh  side  and  roll  it  up 
closely;  put  it  in  a  cool  place,  out  of  the  way  of  the  frost, 
and  let  it  remain  three  or  four  days  or  more,  according 
to  thickness;  then  unroll,  and  when  it  gets  nearly  dry, 
with  a  dull  knife  remove  the  fat  that  may  adhere  in 
spots,  and  a  little  rubbing  makes  it  pliable  and  fit  for  use. 

593.  Mosquito  Preventive.— Take   of   tar— just 
the  plain,  old-fashioned  tar  of  our  fathers— half  a  pint; 
lard — vaseline  is  better — half  a  pint;  oil  of  pennyroyal, 
half  an  ounce;  creosote,  three  drops;  mix  with  heat,  and 
can  or  bottle  for  future  use. — "Kingfisher y'4m  Forest  and 
Stream. 

594.  Waterproof  Cape. — Take  two  yards  of  heavy 
drilling,  28  or  30  inches  wide,  cut  into  two  pieces,  each 
one  yard  long,  sew  together  at  the  selvage,  making  one 
piece,  50  to  00  inches  wide;  cut  in  circular  formv  making 


206  MISCELLANEO  US. 

the  cape  long  enough  to  come  well  down  below  the  waist 
and  over  the  arms  to  the  ends  of  the  coat  or  shirt  sleeves; 
leave  out  a  little  over  one- third  of  the  circle  for  the  open 
front,  cut  to  fit  the  neck  closely,  put  in  buttonholes  and 
buttons  down  the  front,  oil  heavily  with  boiled  linseed 
oil  with  a  little  turpentine  and  Japan  dryer  in  it.  The 
neck  may  have  three  or  four  gores  in  it  to  insure  a 
snugger  fit,  but  they  are  not  necessary.  Make  up  the 
goods  with  the  twilled  side  out.  Total  cost  about  25 
cents. — F.  R.  Webb,  in  Forest  and  Stream. 

595.  Fleas  and  Lice  on  Dogs. — Almost  all  of 
the  various  remedies  that  are  recommended  for  their  ex- 
termination will  have  the  desired  effect  providing  they 
are  promptly  applied.     None  of  them  will  accomplish 
the  purpose  unless  so  applied.     The  louse  is  very  prolific 
and  matures  at  a  very  early  age,  and  none  of  the  various 
remedies  will  destroy  the  vitality  of  the  egg,  no  matter 
how  thorough  has  been  the  war  of  extermination.    It  is 
necessary,  in  order  to  make  a  sure  job  of  it,  that  the  work 
be  thoroughly  done  in  the  first  place,  and  thoroughly  re- 
peated at  least  once  a  week.    Persian  insect  powder,  when 
rightly  used,  answers  the  purpose  very  well,  and  is  per- 
haps the  most  cleanly  and  least  troublesome  method  in 
cold  weather,  but  as  the  powder  only  stupifies  and  does 
not  kill  the  insect,  it  is  necessary  to  follow  its  application 
with  the  fine  comb,  of  course  destroying  by  fire  every 
captive.     To  apply  the  powder,  place  the  animal  upon  a 
large  sheet  of  strong  paper,  and  with  an  insect  gun  or 
common  pepper  box  thoroughly  dust  the  powder  into 
every  portion  of  his  coat,  following  this  with  a  vigorous 
shampooing  until  every  insect  receives  its  share.     Most  of 
them  will  at  once  vacate  the  premises  and  fall  upon  the 
paper.     Those  that  remain  must  be  found  with  the  comb 
and  all  thrown  into  the  fire.     This  should  be  repeated 
every  three  or  four  days  until  the  parasites  all  disappear. 

596.  Quassia   Water.— An    infusion   of   quassia 


MISCELLANEOUS.  207 

wood  will  also  destroy  lice.  Take  two  or  three  ounces  of 
the  chips  and  tie  them  up  in  a  muslin  bag.  Suspend  them 
in  a  pail  of  water,  stirring  occasionally.  After  two  hours 
the  infusion  is  ready  for  use,  Apply  it  freely  with 
plenty  of  soap  and  rinse  off  with  clear  water.  Strong 
tobacco  water,  applied  in  the  same  manner,  may  be  used 
with  good  results,  although  it  is  apt  to  make  the  animal 
sick.  Whale  oil,  freely  used,  is  also  sure  death  to  lice. 
This  should  be  thoroughly  washed  out  of  the  coat  a  few 
minutes  after  using  on  account  of  cleanliness.  Mercurial 
preparations  of  all  kinds  are  never  to  be  used  for  this 
purpose,  as  bad  results  are  always  sure  to  follow.  Neither 
can  kerosene  be  recommended,  for  the  same  reason. 

597.  Care  of  Kennels — It  is  absolutely  necessary 
that  the  kennel  and  bedding  be  attended  to  or  all  of  your 
labor  will  be  in  vain.     A  good  coat  of  whitewash  put  on 
hot,  taking  care  to  fill  up  all  the  cracks,  will  render  your 
kennel    almost    insect    proof.     The  bedding  should  be 
changed  often.     Cedar  shavings  make    the    best    bed, 
although  those  of  pine  will  do  very  well.     The  bedding 
of  dogs  which  sleep  in  the  house  should  be  frequently 
scalded  out  in  strong  soapsuds,  and  after  rinsing  in  clean 
water,  hung  in  the  sun  until  perfectly  dry.    By  closely 
observing  the  above  rules  one  can  soon  rid  his  kennel  of 
both  fleas  and  lice. 

598.  Preserving-  Ferns. — To  dry  fern  leaves  so  as 
to  preserve  their  color,  take  dry  sand,  place  leaves  the  reon 
and  sift  a  layer  of  an  inch  or  so  of  sand  on  the  leaves, 
being  sure  to  arrange  the  leaves  flat  and  neatly.   Flowers 
can  also  be  preserved  this  way.     Let  the  whole  remain 
till  the  leaves  are  dry.    Keep  sand  in  moderately  warm 


599.  Preserving  Autumn  Leaves.— Place  the 
leaves  between  sheets  of  blotting  paper,  taking  care 
they  do  not  touch  each  other.  Then  at  intervals  of 


308  MISCELLANEOUS. 

about  six  of  the  papers  lay  either  a  folded  newspaper  or 
a  piece  of  card  board.  When  all  the  leaves  are  arranged 
place  the  papers  containing  them  upon  a  smooth  board 
with  another  board  on  top,  and  on  that  a  heavy  weight. 
Let  them  remain  in  a  warm  room  for  a  day,  then  re- 
place them  in  dry,  fresh  papers  and  keep  this  up  for  four 
or  live  days. 

OOO.  A  Shanty-Made  Insect  Hood.— We  took  a 
spare  rubber  blanket  and  cut  out  a  cap  in  shape  similar 
to  the  soldier's  havelock,  with  oval  opening  large  enough 
to  allow  plenty  of  room  for  the  face,  and  with  cape  about 
eight  inches  long.  Then  we 'took  a  witchhopple  stick, 
bent  it  around  and  sewed  it  in  the  rim  of  the  opening. 
We  should  have  used  wire  if  we  could  have  obtained  it, 


but  did  not  have  time  to  run  down  to  the  store  for  it,  as 
it  was  about  sixty  miles  from  us.  Then  with  some  hoop- 
skirt  wire,  which  some  unfortunate  female  had  left 
in  our  shanty,  we  bowed  out  a  piece  from  the  fore- 
head to  the  chin,  and  then  transversely,  sewing  it  firmly 
in  its  place;  then  over  this  a  covering  of  mull  or  netting, 
and  your  cap  is  complete.  This  is  the  only  thing  that  I 
have  found  to  keep  off  insects  and  insure  a  good  night's 
sleep.  You  can  lie  in  any  position,  it  is  not  uncomfor- 
table, and  serves  also  as  a  night  cap.  The  cape  should 
be  securely  tucked  under  the  coat  collar,  and  tied  snugly 


MISCELLANEOUS.  209 

around  the  throat.  By  using  a  very  fine  veil  over  the 
opening  of  your  cap,  the  punkies  can  be  euchred  in  the 
same  way.  I  think  oil  silk  would  be  better  than  rubber 
cloth.  We  all  tried  this  last  summer,  and  I  used  my  old 
one  this  summer,  and  money  would  not  buy  it  if  I  could 
not  get  another  one.— Correspondence  Forest  and  Stream. 

6O1.  Ornithologists'  Terms.  —  Auriculars,  ear 
coverts,  soft  feathers  that  cover  the  ears;  bastard  wing, 
three  or  five-feathered,  resembling  the  quills  of  the  true 
wing,  placed  on  a  small  bone  rising  from  the  wrist  joint 
of  the  wing ;  lesser  coverts,  feathers  found  in  successive 
rows  on  the  wings — these  on  the  inside  are  termed  under 
coverts;  greater  coverts,  large  wing  feathers  lying  under 
the  lesser  coverts-,  primaries,  large  quill  feathers  growing 
from  below  the  wrist  joint;  secondaries  or  second  quill 
feathers  spring  from  second  bone  of  the  wing,  appearing 
when  the  wing  is  extended  like  a  continuation  of  the 
primaries;  tertiaries  or  third  quill  feathers  also  rise  from 
the  second  bone,  but  much  nearer  the  elbow  joint;  scapu- 
lars or  shoulder  feathers,  soft,  downy  feathers  that  cover 
the  shoulder  bones;  rump  feathers  and  upper  tail  coverts, 
continuations  of  the  covering  of  the  back;  vent  feathers 
and  under  tail  coverts,  feathers  extending  from  the  arms 
to  the  tail  underneath;  loral space,  space  between  the  bill 
and  eye;frons,  the  forehead;  occiput,  hind  part  of  head; 
flexure,  bend  of  the  wings:  tarsi,  shanks  of  the  legs;  tibia, 
thigh;  upper  and  lower  mandibles  or  superior  and  inferior 
maxillce,  the  upper  and  lower  bills;  iris  (irides),  colored 
circle  surrounding  pupil  of  the  eye;  mentum,  the  chin; 
guttur,  the  throat;  collum,  the  neck;  pectus,  the  breast. 

OO2.  Moulting  of  Birds.— Birds  moult  or  shed 
their  entire  plumage  once  or  twice  a  year.  The  moulting 
is  very  gradual,  and  few  birds  are  ever  so  bare  of  plum- 
age as  to  prevent  their  flying.  Some  birds  moult  in  late 
summer,  some  in  early  fall  and  some  in  early  spring. 
Summer  and  fall  moulting  is  always  the  most  complete. 


210 


MISCELLANEO  US. 


Birds  which  go  north  to  breed  receive  their  fresh  plum- 
age immediately  after  the  period  of  incubation  has 
passed. 

OO3.  The  Scow.— The  scow  (Fig.  1),  may  be  built 
in  a  few  hours  and  at  an  expense  of  two  or  three  dollars 
only.  A  few  common  boards  of  pine,  spruce,  or  almost 
any  wood,  can  readily  be  obtained,  13  feet  long,  10  inches 
wide  and  1  inch  thick.  To  construct  a  boat  to  carry  two  or 
three  persons,  four  or  five  boards  will  be  necessary.  Two 
of  these  should  be  selected  and  a  length  of  10  feet  sawn 
from  each.  The  edges  of  these  pieces  are  now  planed  or 


FIG.  l— Scow. 

" jointed"  up  straight  and  square  to  the  sides,  the  latter 
being  either  planed  or  left  rough.  These  two  side  pieces 
(a)  are  laid  one  on  the  other,  and  two  or  three  small  nails 
driven  through  them  to  hold  them  temporarily  together, 
and  the  outline  of  the  side  is  now  marked  on  the  upper 
one.  The  upper  edge  of  the  boat  will  be  straight,  the 
bottom  will  be  straight  for  5  feet  amidships,  and  at  each 
end  for  2  feet  6  inches  will  slant  upward  until  the  end 
pieces  of  the  boat  (b  b)  are  but  4  inches  deep.  The  two 
boards  are  now  sawn  to  shape  and  planed  square  on  the 
ends  and  the  slanting  portions  of  the  bottom,  then  they 
may  be  taken  apart.  Each  end  piece  will  be  8  feet  long, 


MISCELLANEOUS.  211 

or  longer  if  a  wider  boat  is  required,  and  4|  inches  wide  in 
the  rough.  The  upper  edges  are  planed  up,  and  the  sides 
are  each  nailed  to  the  ends,  using  eight-penny  nails,  or 
ten-penny  if  the  stuff  is  over  £  inch  thick.  The  frame  is 
now  turned  bottom  up,  the  two  end  pieces  are  planed  on 
their  bottom  edges  to  correspond  with  the  bevel  of  the 
bottom,  then  a  sufficient  number  of  pieces  to  cover  the 
bottom  are  eawn  off  the  remaining  board?.  In  this  case 
they  will  each  be  3  feet  2  inches  long.  Their  edges  are 
carefully  "jointed  up"  straight  and  square,  and  they  are 
nailed  in  place  across  the  bottom.  When  all  are  nailed  on, 
the  ends  may  be  planed  down  even  with  the  sides  of  the 
boat.  To  stiffen  the  bottom  a  strip  5  inches  wide  and  f 
to  1  inch  thick  (see  i,  Fig.  2)  is  laid  down  the  center  of 
the  bottom  inside  and  nailed  with  wrought  or  clinch 
nails  to  each  plank,  the  nails  being  driven  through  and 
their  points  clinched  or  turned  in,  using  a  hammer  and 
an  iron  set.  About  2  feet  at  each  end  will  be  covered 
with  a  deck,  as  at  7i,  Fig.  2.  One  seat  will  be  put  in  for 
rowing,  being  supported  on  two  cleats,  one  nailed  to  each 
side.  Iron  rowlocks  (cost  seventy-five  cents  per  pair)  are 
better  than  wooden  ones,  but  if  they  are  not  to  be  had, 
the  latter  can  be  made  of  oak.  A  cleat  of  oak  If  inches 
thick,  2  inches  deep  and  9  inches  long  is  then  screwed 
along  the  inside  of  the  gunwale.  In  each  cleat  two  mor- 
tises are  cut,  1£  inches  long,  \  inch  wide  and  3£  inches 
apart.  The  rowlocks  are  each  7  inches  long,  -J-  inch  thick, 
2  inches  wide  above  the  cleat  and  1^  inches  wide  in  the 
mortises,  projecting  4  inches  above  the  gunwale  and  3 
inches  below.  If  all  the  joints  are  neatly  made,  the  boat 
should  be  tight  after  being  in  the  water  a  short  time;  but 
it  is  always  best  to  paint  or  tar  the  entire  boat,  inside  and 
out,  preserving  the  wood  and  lessening  the  chance  of 
leakage.  In  no  case  should  caulking  be  needed  in  a  new 
boat.  If  the  builder  desires,  each  edge  can  be  painted  as 
the  board  is  put  in  place,  which  will  still  further  prevent 
any  leakage, 


212 


MISCELLANEO  US, 


OO4.  The  Punt. — The  punt,  as  it  is  commonly  called 
(Fig.  2),  is  a  scow  of  rather  better  design  than  the  one 
described  above,  but  the  operations  of  building  are  simi- 
lar. Such  a  boat  may  be  14  to  16  feet  long,  4  feet  beam 
at  gunwale,  3  feet  4  inches  at  bottom,  and  the  sides  14 
inches  deep.  The  sides  (//)  will  each  be  a  little  longer 
than  the  length  of  the  completed  boat,  14  inches  wide  and 
£  inch  thick.  They  should  be  free  from  knots  and 
sap  wood,  and  as  nearly  alike  as  possible,  so  as  to  bend 


\l 

\ 

ft- 

I 

4 

t\ 

Le 

1 

~~r- 

if 

1 

^ 

f 

* 

i! 

FIG.  2— PUNT. 

equally.  One  is  laid  on  two  benche?,  the  outline  of  the 
boat  is  marked  out  as  shown,  the  ends  sweeping  upward 
in  easy  curves,  and  it  is  sawn  and  planed  to  shape.  It  is 
then  laid  on  the  second  board,  the  two  are  lightly  nailed 
together,  and  the  latter  planed  to  match,  a  center  line 
being  marked  on  both  while  nailed  together.  The  two 
end  pieces  (cc)are  next  sawn  cut  of  1  inch  oak  or  ash,  the 
ends  being  beveled,  as  the  bottom  of  the  boat  throughout 
will  be  narrower  than  the  top.  Next  a  piece  (d)  14  to  16 
inches  wide  and  4  feet  long  is  sawn  off  and  the  ends 
beveled,  making  it  4  feet  long  on  the  upper  edge  and  3 
feet  4  inches  near  the  lower.  The  two  small  projections 
(ee)  are  left,  to  aid  in  setting  the  side  correctly.  This 
board  or  mould  is  placed  on  edge,  one  side  board  is  laid 


MISCELLANEOUS.  213 

in  place  against  it  at  the  center  mark,  and  a  fewiiailsare 
driven  through  the  side  board  into  the  end  of  the  piece. 
Now  the  other  side  is  fitted  in  the  same  manner.  The  three 
pieces  resting  on  a  level  floor,  the  corresponding  ends  of 
the  side  pieces  are  drawn  together  with  ropes  until  the  end 
pieces  will  just  fit  between,  then  the  sides  are  nailed  or 
screwed  to  the  ends.  The  best  way  to  do  this  is  to  bore 
the  holes  and  fit  each  side  in  turn  to  its  corresponding 
end  piece,  putting  in  the  screws  before  the  sides  are 
nailed  to  the  mould  (the  pieces  after  fitting  being  taken 
apart);  then  when  the  ends  are  finally  in  place  there  is  no 
trouble  in  holding  and  adjusting  them,  the  screws  being 
reinserted  in  the  holes  already  bored.  When  sides  and 
ends  are  well  fastened  together,  both  of  the  frames  should 
have  the  same  degree  of  curve,  and  the  entire  frame 
should  be  true  and  symmetrical.  The  lower  edges  of  the 
sides  having  been  planed  square,  now  require  to  be  bev- 
eled slightly,  on  account  of  the  outward  flare  of  the  sides. 
To  do  this  a  piece  of  board,  one  of  those  cut  for  the  bot- 
tom, is  laid  across  and  used  as  a  guide,  the  outer  corner 
of  each  edge,  both  of  sides  and  ends,  being  planed  off 
until  the  board  lies  flat  across  all  the  edges.  The  bottom 
boards  are  now  cut  to  length  and  nailed  in  place,  the 
edges  of  each  being  very  carefully  planed  up  to  fit  its 
neighbors.  When  the  bottom  is  on,  the  ends  are  planed 
off  even  with  the  side  of  the  boat,  it  is  turned  over  and  a 
strip  (i)  5  inches  wide  is  nailed  down  the  middle  of  the 
bottom,  as  in  the  previous  boat.  This  strip  will  be  1  inch 
thick  at  its  center,  but  toward  the  ends  it  may  diminish 
to  ^  inch,  so  as  to  bend  more  easily  to  the  curve  of  the 
bottom.  When  it  is  in,  the  ends  are  decked  over  for  2 
or  8  feet,  as  at  li  h.  Two  thwarts  or  seats  (j  j)  will  be 
put  in,  each  9  inches  wide  and  1  inch  thick.  They  should 
be  placed  about  7  inches  below  the  gunwale,  and  each  end 
will  rest  on  a  short  piece  nailed  to  the  side  of  the  boat, 
long  enough  to  reach  from  the  bottom  to  the  wider  side 
of  the  seat.  The  seats  should  be  secured  well  to  the  sides, 


214  MISCELLANEOUS. 

as  they  serve  to  stiffen  the  boat.  A  gunwale  strip  is  usu- 
ally run  around  the  outer  edge.  It  may  be  of  oak  f  inch 
wide  and  1^  inches  thick,  screwed  to  the  side  pieces. 
Rowlocks  and  stretchers  complete  the  boat.  It  will,  how- 
ever, be  easier  to  row  straight  if  a  skag  be  added  to  the 
after  end.  A  stern  post  of  oak,  lxl£  inches,  is  nailed 
down  the  center  of  the  end,  and  in  the  angle  between  it 
and  the  bottom  is  fitted  a  piece  of  1-inch  board  (o,  Fig.  3) 
nailed  to  it  and  the  bottom.  On  the  stern  post  a  rudder 
may  be  hung  if  desired. 

OO5.  The  Skiff. — In  this  boat  the  after  end  is  similar 
to  the  previous  one,  but  the  bow  is  very  different,  resem- 
bling more  a  round-bottomed  boat.  The  sideboards  are 
marked  and  cut  as  in  the  former  boat,  but  at  the  fore  end 
they  are  not  cut  up  at  all,  but  are  sawn  off  at  a  slight 
bevel  to  fit  the  forward  rake  of  the  stem  (k  I  shows  the 
sideboard  in  the  rough,  with  the  side  marked  out).  The 
gunwale  will  have  a  slight  sheer,  part  of  it  being  due  to 
the  bending  of  the  sideboards,  but  to  increase  it  the  upper 
edges  are  made  a  little  hollow,  their  concavity  being  from 
1  to  2  inches,  according  to  the  sheer  desired.  A  middle 
mould  is  cut  out  similar  to  d,  and  a.so  a  stern  piece,  the 
latter  of  1  inch  oak.  It  is  fitted  and  screwed  to  each  side- 
board in  turn,  then  it  is  taken  off,  the  sideboards  are 
nailed  to  the  mould  along  the  lines  A  B,  and  the  stern- 
board  is  replaced  and  screwed  fast,  Now  the  two  sides 
are  drawn  together  with  a  rope  at  their  fore-ends  until 
they  nearly  or  quite  meet,  as  at  t,  and  a  piece  of  oak  of 
triangular  form  (r)  is  cut  to  fit  in  the  angle  between  them, 
and  they  are  screwed  fast  to  it.  The  bend  of  the  sides 
will  cause  the  bottom  of  the  boat  to  have  considerable 
rocker,  usually  much  more  than  is  desirable.  To  avoid 
this,  when  the  frame  is  thus  far  .completed,  the  bottom 
edges  of  both  sideboards  are  planed  down  from  m  to  U, 
until  the  bottom  is  straight  for  some  distance  amidships. 
This  can  best  be  determined  by  setting  the  frame,  top  up- 


MISCELLANEO  US. 


215 


Ward,  on  a  level  floor.  When  the  edges  are  planed  off 
equally  they  must  be  beveled,  as  in  the  preceding  boat, 
the  floor  is  nailed  on,  the  middle  piece  is  put  in  and 


nailed  down,  and  the  thwarts  put  in.  Both  in  bow  and 
stern  there  will  also  be  seats  at  about  3  inches  below  gun- 
wale and  of  the  shape  shown.  To  complete  the  bow,  the 
ends  of  the  sideboards  are  planed  off,  and  another  trian- 


216  MISCELLANEOUS. 

gular  piece  of  oak  (s)  is  sawn  out  and  nailed  against  the 
ends  and  the  piece  r,  as  shown,  making  a  sharp  bow.  A 
scag  (o)  is  also  added,  wale  strips  are  put  on,  and  the  boat 
is  ready  for  painting.  Such  a  boat  may  have  a  center- 
board,  and  may  also  be  fitted  with  sails  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  an  ordinary  round-bottomed  boat. 

GOG.  To  Build  an  Ice  Yacht.— The  body,  or  boat 
proper,  is  made  up  of  three  principal  parts — the  keel  or 
center  timber,  and  two  side  timbers.  The  keel  is  24  feet  6 
inches  long,  3  inches  wide,  and  9  inches  deep.  The  two  side 
timbers  are  each  2-|  inches  wide  and  4  inches  deep.  They 
are  joined  at  the  stern  to  a  semi-circle  of  15  inches  radius, 
and  at  the  mast  by  means  of  a  curved  plank  12  inches 
wide,  3  inches  deep,  and  7  feet  4  inches  long,  which  is 
bolted  to  them.  The  runner  plank,  to  which  the  two  for- 
ward runners  are  bolted,  and  which  is  bolted  to  the  under 
side  of  the  side  timbers  and  running  under  the  keel,  which 
projects  about  an  inch  below  the  side  timbers.  The  run- 
ners are  three  in  number,  two  forward  and  one  aft  (called 
the  rudder),  are  made  of  2-inch  plank,  and  have  steel 
shoes  bolted  to  them  by  means  of  bolts  tapped  into  the 
shoe  and  running  through  the  wood,  having  their  heads 
countersunk  therein  so  as  to  be  flush.  The  shoes  are 
fastened  by  5f-inch  bolts  tapped  into  them;  they  are 
ground  on  the  running  edge  to  an  angle  of  90°,  and  are 
If  inches  deep.  The  after  runner,  or  rudder,  is  smaller 
than  the  forward  ones,  and  is  fastened  to  a  rudder  post, 
which  passes  through  the  keel  and  terminates  in  a  tiller, 
2  feet  8  inches  long,  by  which  the  boat  is  steered.  The 
body  is  planked  on  the  under  side  with  inch  boards  for  a 
distance  of  about  7  feet  from  the  after  end.  The  mast  is 
20  feet  high,  5  inches  in  diameter  at  the  foot  and  3£ 
inches  at  the  top,  and  has  a  topmast  fixed  into  the  top  3 
feet  long,  2  inches  in  diameter  at  the  large  and  1  inch  at 
the  small  end.  The  bowsprit  is  16  feet  long,  6  inches 
deep  at  the  widest  part  and  3|  at  the  ends,  and  is  3  inches 


MISCELLANEO  US. 


217 


wide  on  the  bottom,  beveling  to  2  inches  on  the  top.  It 
is  fastened  to  the  keel  by  means  of  an  iron  band  three 
quarters  of  an  inch  wide,  and  also  by  a  bolt  running 


•318  MISCELLANEOUS. 

through  both.  The  boom  is  29  feet  long,  4J-  inches  in 
diameter  in  the  center,  and  2-|  inches  at  the  ends.  It  is 
fastened  aft  of  the  mast  by  means  of  ail  eye  and  a  staple. 
The  jibboom  is  15  feet  3  inches  long,  2|  inches  in  diameter 
at  the  center,  and  2  inches  at  the  ends,  and  is  fastened  to 
the  forward  end  of  the  bowsprit.  The  gaff  is  8  feet  9 
inches  long,  2  inches  in  diameter,  and  has  the  jaws  made 
to  an  angle,  so  that  they  set  square  across  the  mast. 
The  sails  are  two  in  number,  the  mainsail  and  the  jib. 
The  mainsail  has  the  following  dimensions:  Hoist,  14 
feet  6  inches;  foot,  28  feet;  head,  8  feet;  leach,  28  feet; 
the  lift  of  the  mainsail  at  the  end  of  the  boom  is  1  foot  6 
inches.  The  dimensions  of  the  jib  are  as  follows:  Hoist, 
15  feet;  foot,  14£  feet;  leach  22  feet;  and  it  has  a  lift  of  1 
foot.  The  rigging  is  of  half -inch  round  iron  and  wire 
rope. — Scientific  American. 

GOT.  Sinkboat. — The  dimensions,  material,  etc.,  to 
be  used  in  constructing  a  sinkboat  are  as  follows:  The 
box  in  platform  should  be  made  of  f-inch  best  white  pine; 
or  still  better,  white  cedar,  if  to  be  had.  The  ends  of  box 
should  be  of  white  oak,  1£  inches  thick.  The  box  should 
be  5  feet  10  inches  long,  in  the  clear  (this  will  accommo- 
date any  man  not  over  6  feet  in  height,  as  both  his  knees 
and  neck  are  bent  in  lying  in  the  position  to  shoot)  15 
inches  deep  in  clear  and  22  inches  wide,  sides  straight 
perpendicularly,  but  sprung  together  at  ends  to  14  inches 
at  head  and  foot.  The  simplest  way  is  to  make  the  box 
the  same  depth  all  over,  but  it  is  by  no  means  the  best 
way.  The  foot  should  be  of  full  depth,  viz.,  15  inches. 
Cut  away  the  head  of  box  to,  say,  6  inches,  because  the 
shooter,  in  lying  down,  has  to  have  his  eyes  above  the 
level  of  the  box  in  order  to  watch  the  flight  of  the  fowl, 
so  that  very  little  depth  is  required  at  the  head.  The  box 
should  be  put  together  in  the  very  best  manner,  as  on  its 
being  perfectly  tight  depends  the  comfort  of  the  shooter. 
Make  a  |-inch  drain  board  to  be  in  bottom  of  box,  and 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


r* 


220  MISCELLANEOUS. 

the  sink  is  completed  so  far  as  the  box  is  concerned. 
Around  the  box  is  built  the  "platform,"  as  follows: 
Have  two  oak  carlings  cut  out  6  feet  long,  1^  inches 
thick  and  2|  inches  wide  in  the  middle,  tapering  off  to 
about  1£  inches  at  ends  with  1  inch  spring  or  1£  at  most. 
Bolt  these  securely  to  ends  of  box,  1  inch  below  the  top. 
You  are  now  ready  to  put  on  the  platform  or  deck.  This 
should  be  of  f-inch  white  pine  or  cedar,  6  feet  wide  and 
10  feet  long,  the  seams  of  the  deck  to  be  well  fitted  to- 
gether and  especially  made  tight  where  it  fits  round  the 
box,  which  will  project  above  the  deck  J  inch.  On  each 
end  of  deck,  nail  on  a  batten  of  £-inch  strip,  3  inches 
wide,  on  under  side  of  deck.  At  the  head  of  platform  is 
the  head  wing,  which  should  be  made  of  three  3£  inch 
pine  or  cedar  boards,  each  12  inches  wide,  and  fastened 
together  by  strong  iron  straps,  with  hinges  at  each  board, 
and  also  where  the  wing  joins  the  platform.  These 
hinges  should  be  so  arranged  as  to  give  the  board  com- 
posing the  wing  free  play  to  swing  down  at  right  angle 
with  platform,  and  to  fold  back  on  top  of  same,  tack 
loosely  so  as  not  to  interfere  with  swing  of  wing,  strips  of 
heavy  drill  or  duck  (of  color  as  nearly  resembling  as  pos- 
sible the  water  the  boat  is  to  be  used  in)  over  each  crack 
between  wing  board  and  between  inner  wing  board  and 
platform.  This  completes  the  head  wing.  Side  wings  to 
be  of  £-inch  pine  or  cedar  boards,  two  on  each  side,  each 
board  8  or  10  inches  wide  and  connected  together  and 
with  platform  by  three  heavy  sole-leather  hinges  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  give  freo  play  with  platform  with  the 
strips  of  drill  or  duck  nailed  over  the  head  wing.  In 
addition  to  the  battens  nailed  under  the  platform 
there  should  be  one  on  each  side  of  box  amidships  on 
under  side  of  platform ,  which  should  be  braced  to  box 
by  an  iron  ell.  The  ends  of  all  these  battens  should 
project  beyond  the  sides  of  the  platform  about  an  inch, 
so  that  the  side  wings  will  have  something  to  rest  on,  as 
the  leather  hinges  must  be  long  enough  to  let  them  fold 


MISCELLANEOUS.  221 

over  the  foot  wing  when  the  boat  is  folded  up.  The  foot 
wing  should  be  made  like  the  side  wings,  extending 
across  the  foot  of  box,  or  a  single  board  14  to  16  inches 
wide  can  be  used  at  foot.  Connecting  the  wings  at  each 
of  the  four  corners  are  triangular  pieces  of  lead-colored 
duck,  or  heavy  drill,  tacked  to  the  wings  and  having  a 
stout  cord  sewed  to  their  outer  edges;  on  cord  use  small 
corks  to  keep  the  corner  pieces  on  top  of  the  water  as 
much  as  possible.  The  leads  consist  of  two  rows  of  sheet 
lead  from  4  to  5  inches  wide,  the  inner  row  to  be  tacked 
round  the  edge  of  box  along  the  inner  edge  of  the  lead  in 
such  a  manner  that  the  outer  edge  can  be  bent  up  to  keep 
the  sea  out.  The  outer  row  of  lead  is  nailed  routnd  the 
platform  half  way  between  the  box  and  the  edge  of  the 
platform  all  round.  Paint  box,  platform  and  wings  as 
near  the  color  of  the  water  in  which  the  box  is  to 
be  used  as  possible.  The  sink  is  to  be  moored  by 
two  anchors,  one  at  the  head  and  one  at  the  foot. 
For  head  anchor  two  holes  should  be  bored  at  head 
carling,  about  15  inches  from  each  end,  and  a  rope 
knotted  through  these  holes  making  a  '  "bridle"  about  10 
feet  long.  The  anchor  rope  should  be  made  fast  to  the 
bight  of  this  bridle.  This  lets  the  head  of  box  ride  free 
in  a  sea.  For  stern  anchor  bore  a  hole  in  the  platform 
near  the  edge  at  foot  and  let  the  anchor  rope  pass  through 
this.  This  enables  the  shooter  to  trip  his  stern  anchor 
(which  should  be  a  light  one)  in  case  of  a  sudden  shift  of 
wind  so  that  the  box  will  swing  head  in.  At  Havre  dc 
Grace  they  u:e  a  light  frame  for  side  and  foot  wings, 
with  drill  or  tickings  stretched  over  them.  These  plat- 
forms are  generally  larger  also,  the  usual  dimensions 
there  being  12x7  feet,  but  the  board  wings  are  better 
than  the  canvas  or  drill,  and  the  6x10  platforms  quite 
large  enough.  In  the  above  sinkboat  about  200  pounds 
of  weight  in  addition  to  the  man  will  have  to  be  used. 
Have  iron  decoys  cast,  each  weighing  from  25  to  30 
pounds.  These  are  set  in  the  platform  with  wooden  de- 


222 


MJSCELLANEO  US. 


coys  of  about  one-third  the  usual  thickness.  The  bodies 
should  not  be  more  than  2  inches  high  and  flat  on  the 
bottom.  Use  also  light  wooden  decoys  on  wings  with  a 
"stool"  of  about  200. — "Sinkltoat"  in  Forest  and  Stream. 

OO8.  Sneak  Box  or  Barnegat  Duck  Boat.— 

Length,  12  feet;  width  midships,  4  feet;  width  of  stern, 
2  feet  9  inches;  depth  of  stern,  7  inches.  Sprung  tim- 
bers all  of  one  pattern,  r^XlJ  inch;  distance  apart,  8 
inches;  deck  timbers  natural  bend,  1  inchxl  inch.  Cock- 


4  FT. 


FIG.  4. 


a,  a— apron.  1,  1,  1  shows  where  it  is  nailed  to  deck,  ib,  b— 
Cockpit,  c— Trunk,  d,  a,  d-Stool  rack,  e,  e— Ilowlocks.  Fig.  4 
shows  rowlocks. 

pit,  inside  measurement,  length  3  feet  4  inches,  width  at 
bow  and  stern,  18£  inches,  amidships  19  inches.  Comb- 
ing, height  of  inside  at  bow  and  stern,  2|  inches,  mid- 
ships, 2  inches.  From  bottom  of  combing  to  top  of  ceil- 


MISCELLANEOUS.  223 

ing,  13  inches.  Trunk  on  port  side,  set  slanting  to  take  a 
15-inch  board  trunk  placed  alongside  and  abaft  of  for- 
ward corner  of  combing.  Boards  for  boats,  white  cedar, 
|  inch  thick,  deck,  narrow  strips  tongued  and  grooved. 
Rowlocks,  height  G  inches,  from  coaming  9  inches,  middle 
of  to  stern,  4  feet  7  inches,  made  to  fold  down  inboard 
and  to  fasten  up  with  a  hook.  Stool  rack  runs  from  row- 
locks to  stern,  notched  at  ends  into  fastenings  of  row- 
locks, also  notched  at  corners  and  hooked  together,  rest 
against  a  cleat  on  deck  outside,  and  are  hooked  to  the 
deck  inside.  In  a  heavy  sea  the  apron  is  used.  It  is  held 
up  by  a  stick  from  peak  to  combing.  Thus  rigged  the 
boat  has  the  reputation  of  being  able  to  live  as  long  as 
oars  can  be  pulled.  The  apron  is  tacked  to  the  deck 
about  two-thirds  its  length.  The  wings  are  fastened  to 
the  top  and  bottom  of  the  rowlocks.  Mast  hole  2£  inches, 
2  inches  from  coaming.  Drop  of  sides  from  top  of  deck, 
5J  inches;  deadrise,  8  inches.  Over  cockpit  a  hatch  is 
placed.  Everything  connected  with  the  boat  is  placed 
inside,  gunners  of  ten  leaving  their  guns,  &c.,  locking  the 
hatch  fast.  The  boats  sail  well  and  covered  with  sedge 
are  used  to  shoot  from.  With  the  hatch  on,  a  person  can 
be  protected  from  rain,  and  with  blanket?,  can  be  accom- 
modated with  a  night's  lodging. 

009.  A  Knot  is  a  nautical  mile,  or  6086.7ft. 

010.  Life  Preservers. — There  are  numerous  styles 
of  boat  cushions,  made  of  hair,  cork  and  other  buoyant 
material?,    which   will   answer    as  life  preservers,   and 
prudence  dictates  that  some  such  provision  should  always 
be  made  for  accidents  on  the  water. 

011.  Hunting*  Hatchet. — The  pike  is  square,  hole 
the  same,  just  back  of  the  head,  so  as  to  fit  the  wrench. 
The  head  may  be  used  in  and  around  camp,  putting  up 
bunks,  etc.     And  when  you  go  on  a  hunt,  tiy  the  proper 
application  of  the  wrench,  you  can  in  a,  very  short  time 


224 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


have  a  hatchet  that  will  be  of  great  use,  should  you  wish 
to  climb  a  tree,  dig  a  hole,  go  prospecting  or  administer 
the  coup  de  grace  to  a  badly  wounded  buck  or  bear. 


The  hatchet  is  not  patented.  Mine  is  made  of  finest 
steel,  and  in  such  a  way  that  the  head  will  not  jam  or 
stick. — G.  A,  Scroggs  in  Forest  and  Stream. 

The  Best  Hint  of  AIL— Most  of  these  have  been 
taken  from  the  Forest  and  Stream.  If  you  are  not  fa- 
miliar with  that  weekly  journal  of  Shooting,  Fishing, 
Travel,  Natural  History,  Fishculture,  the  Kennel,  Yacht- 
ing, Canoeing,  and  Rifle  and  Trap  Shooting,  send  10  cts. 
for  a  sample  copy.  Terms,  $4  per  year.  Forest  and 
Stream  Publishing  Company,  318  Broadway,  New  York. 


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Caiioe  and  Boat  Building".  FOURTH  AND  ENLARGED 
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Monographs  on  Dogs: 

THE  COLLIE— Its  History,  Points,  Breeding  and  Rear- 
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THE  FOX-TERRIER. — Its  History,  Points,  Breeding  and 
Rearing.  By  Hugh  Dalziel.  92  pages.  Price,  $1.00. 

THE  ST.  BERNARD. — Its  History,  Points,  Breeding  and 
Rearing.  By  Hugh  Dalziel.  The  frontispiece  of  this 
volume  is  a  life-colored  portrait  of  the  famous  Plinlimmon 
recently  imported  into  this  country.  Cloth,  132  pages. 
Price,  $1.25. 

THE  GREYHOUND. — Its  History,  Points,  Breeding,  Rear- 
ing, Training  and  Running.  By  Hugh  Dalziel.  Cloth,  88 
pages.  Colored  plates.  Price,  $1.25. 

HISTORY  OF  THE  MASTIFF.  BY  M.  B.  WYNN.  Mr. 
Wynn  is  the  recognized  leading  authority  on  the  mastiff  in 
England.  Cloth,  2'22  pages.  Price,  $2.50. 

Pocket  Keiinel  Record.  A  handy  and  convenient 
little  book,  with  blanks  for  all  kennel  memoranda,  pedi- 
grees, visits,  sales,  etc.,  etc.,  those  particulars  which,  when 
one  has  forgotten,  he  would  sometimes  give  dollars  to  re- 
call. Price,  50  cents. 

Charley's  Wonderful  Journeys.  BY  C.  F.  AMERY. 
This  volume  tells  the  story  of  Charley's  Several  Journeys 
into  Dreamland.  Profusely  illustrated.  Cloth.  Imperial 
Svo.  116  pages.  Price,  $1.50. 

The  Still-Hunter.     BY  T.  S.  VAN  DYKE.     A  practical 
treatise  of  deer  stalking.     390  pages,     Price,  $2,00. 
4 


Nessmuk's  Poems.  FOREST  RUNES.  BY  GEORGE  W. 
SEARS  (NESSMUK).  Poems  on  woodland  subjects,  and  a 
wide  range  of  other  topics,  grave  and  gay.  Large  octavo, 
handsomely  printed,  with  artotype  portrait  of  Nessmuk. 
Cloth,  208  pages.  Price,  $1.50. 

Woodcraft.  BY  "  NESSMUK."  A  book  for  the  guidance  of 
those  who  go  for  pleasure  to  the  woods.  It  is  just  the 
thing  that  thousands  of  novices  are  looking  for,  and  gives 
them  just  the  advice  and  practical  information  they  want. 
Cloth.  Price,  $1.00. 

Our  New  Alaska;  OR,  THE  SEWARD  PURCHASE  VINDI- 
CATED. BY  CHARLES  HALLOCK.  Mr.  Hallock's  personal 
investigations  in  Alaska  have  resulted  in  the  collection  of  a 
great  amount  of  material  on  a  variety  of  topics.  He  treats 
of  the  country — its  past  and  present;  of  its  resourses — its 
timber,  its  mines,  its  fisheries  and  its  fur  trade;  of  the  In- 
dian question,  of  the  government,  of  the  natural  history, 
the  scenery  and  of  sport.  Cloth,  200  pages.  Illustrated. 
Price,  $1.50. 

Uncle  Lisha's  Shop ;  OR,  LIFE  IN  A  CORNER  OF  YANKEE 
LAND.  BY  ROWLAND  E.  ROBINSON.  A  charming  series 
of  character  sketches.  In  the  chapters  figure  Uncle  Lisha, 
Aunt  Jerusha,  Sam  Lovel  and  his  dog  Drive,  Antoine, 
Solon  Briggs,  Huldah  and  other  Danvis  folk,  whose  names 
have  long  been  household  words  with  readers  of  the  Forest 
and  Stream.  Cloth.  Price,  fi.oo. 

Sam  Lovel's  Camps.  UNCLE  LISHA'S  FRIENDS  UNDER 
BARK  AND  CANVAS.  A  sequel  to  "  Uncle  Lisha's  Shop." 
BY  ROWLAND  E.  ROBINSON.  An  inimitable  portraying  of 
the  woods  and  village  life  of  Danvis  folk.  Cloth,  253 
pages.  Price,  $1.00. 

"Forest  and  Stream  Fables."    A  series  of  seven 

fables  in  prose  and  to  every  one  a  picture.  All  of  them 
have  pith  and  point  best  appreciated  by  anglers  and  sports- 
men, but  not  one  is  without  a  moral  for  the  wise  and  foolish 
of  the  world  in  general.  Paper.  Price,  10  cents. 

5 


Antelope  and  Deer  of  America.  BY  JOHN  DEAN 
CATON,  L.L.D.  A  book  written  by  a  sportsman  for  sports- 
men, and  by  a  naturalist  for  naturalists.  It  recounts  deer- 
hunting  experiences  and  adventures,  and  describes  the  dif- 
ferent hunting  methods  used  by  sportsmen.  Fully  illus- 
trated; 426  pages.  Price,  $2.50. 

The  Forest  Waters  the  Farm ;  OR,  THE  VALUE  OF 
WOODLANDS  AS  RESERVOIRS.  A  series  of  conversations 
between  a  farmer  and  a  schoolmaster,  showing  the  influence 
of  forests  upon  water  supply  of  farm  fields.  Cloth.  Price, 
75  cents. 

Sportsmen's  Paradise;  OR,  THE  LAKE  LANDS  OF 
CANADA.  Illustrated  by  Beard.  Cloth.  Price,  $3.50. 

Adirondack  Tales.  BY  W.  II.  H.  MURRAY.  These 
stories  are  full  of  the  subtile  charms  of  Mr.  Murray's  indi- 
viduality. Illustrated.  Cloth,  300  pages.  Price  $1.25. 

Adventures  in  the  Wilderness ;  OR,  CAMP  LIFE  IN 
THE  ADIRONDACK^.  BY  W.  H.  H.  MURRAY.  This  work 
is  very  picturesque  and  amusing.  Illustrated.  Cloth.  Price, 

$1.25. 

Wing  and  Glass  Ball  Shooting  With  the  Rifle. 

BY  H.  C.  BLISS.  This  is  an  invaluable  work  for  the  young 
sportsman  who  aims  at  making  a  record  as  a  marksman. 
Price,  50  cents. 

Names  and  Portraits  of  Birds.  BY  GURDON  TRUM- 
BULL.  Mr.  Trumbull's  new  book  on  game  birds  is  written 
on  a  plan  which  is  entirely  different  from  that  of  any  book 
on  birds  hitherto  published.  90  illustrations.  Cloth,  222 
pages.  Price,  $2.50. 

Wild  Fowl  Shooting.  BY  LEFFINGWELL.  Mr.  Leff- 
ingwell  has  gained  by  life-long  devotion  to  the  sport  of 
wild  fowl  shooting  a  knowledge  of  the  ways  of  the  game, 
the  modes  of  securing  it,  and  the  thousand  and  one  details 
which  go  to  make  up  the  pursuit  of  fowling.  Illustrated. 
Cloth,  373  pages.  Price,  $2.50.  Half  morocco^  $3,50. 
6 


Pawnee  Hero  Stories  and  Folk-Tales ;  WITH 
NOTES  ON  THE  ORIGIN,  CHARACTER  AND  CUSTOMS  OF 
THE  PAWNEE  PEOPLE.  BY  GEORGE  BIRD  GRINNELL. 
This  is  a  most  charming  collection  of  stories  as  told  by  the 
Indians;  tales  of  love,  war,  hunting,  adventure  and  mystery. 
The  book  presents  the  Indian  in  an  entirely  new,  because 
true,  light;  it  gives  a  faithful  portraiture  of  him  as  a  man, 
and  pictures,  as  no  other  book  has  ever  done,  the  Indian  as 
he  actually  is,  in  his  lodge,  on  the  warpath  and  on  the 
/hunt.  The  stories  were  taken  down  just  as  they  were  told, 
and  are  given  without  dressing  up.  They  will  surprise  and 
please  the  reader  by  the  wit,  sentiment  and  human  nature 
displayed  in  them.  Illustrated.  Price,  $2.00. 

Log  Cabins ;  How  TO  BUILD  AND  FURNISH  THEM.  BY 
WILLIAM  S.  WICKS.  The  book  is  thoroughly  practical. 
Every  step  in  the  process  of  construction  is  explained. 
Plans  are  given  for  cabins,  large  and  small,  with  details  of 
exterior  and  interior  finish;  and  there  are  also  some  very 
useful  directions  for  constructing  temporary  shelters — the 
Indian  camp,  brush  camp,  Indian  wigwam,  brush  house 
and  bark  camp.  The  furnishing  consists  of  tables,  chairs, 
bedsteads  and  other  articles,  all  made  of  the  material  at 
hand,  and  all  in  keeping  with  the  style  of  the  house.  The 
illustrations  are  numerous.  Price,  $1.50. 

Shore  Birds.  A  pamphlet  for  those  who  "gun"  along  the 
shore.  Tells  of — I.  Haunts  and  Habits.  II.  Range  and 
Migration.  III.  A  morning  without  the  Birds.  IV.  Nom- 
enclature. V.  Localities.  VI.  Blinds  and  decoys.  Paper. 
Price,  15  cents. 

Some  Native  Birds  for  Little  Folks.    BY  DR.  W. 

VAN  FLEET.  Illustrated  by  HOWARD  II .  DARNELL. 
Cloth,  146  pages,  fourteen  photogravure  plates.  Price, 
$3-00. 

Complete  American  Trapper  Tricks  of  Trap- 
ping- and  Trap  making.  BY  W.  H.  GIBSON.  Il- 
lustrated. Cloth.  Price,  $1.00. 

7 


Trajectories  of  Hunting  Rifles.  A  full  report  of  the 
Forest  and  Stream  Trajectory  Test.  This  was  the  most 
elaborate  and  careful  trial  of  the  trajectories  of  hunting 
rifles  ever  undertaken,  and  the  results  embody  a  vast  fund 
of  practical  information  about  the  principles  of  rifle  shoot- 
ing. Paper.  Illustrated.  Price,  50  cents. 

Gunsmiths'  Manual.  A  complete  handbook  for  the 
American  gunsmith,  being  a  practical  guide  to  all  branches 
of  the  trade.  Numerous  engravings.  Cloth.  Price,  $2.00. 

The  Modern  American   Pistol   and  Revolver 

and  how  to  use  it.     Illustrated.    Cloth.    Price,  $1.00. 

Practical  Taxidermy  and  Home  Decoration. 

BY  BATTY.  Containing  chapters  on  the  care  of  guns,  col- 
lecting and  preparing  and  mounting  skins  of  animals,  birds 
and  fish,  etc.  Cloth,  204  pages.  Price,  $1.50. 


A  MAGNIFICENT  WORK. 


With  Fly-Rod  and  Camera. 

BY 

EDWARD    A.    SAMUELS. 

In  size,  wealth  of  illustrations  and  richness  of  preparation,  this  volume  is 
the  most  elaborate  and  beautiful  book  on  angling  ever  issued  from  the  Amer- 
ican press.  The  author,  Edward  A.  Samuels,  President  of  the  Massachu- 
setts Fish  and  Game  Protective  Association,  is  known  as  a  devoted  salmon 
fisherman  and  skilled  amateur  photographer.  He  has  spent  several  years  in 
collecting  the  material  for  this  book;  the  chapters  relate  the  personal  ex- 
periences of  himself  and  his  friends  on  the  salmon  rivers  of  Canada  and  the 
trout  lakes  of  New  England.  The  150  full-page  illustrations  are  direct  re- 
productions of  photographs  made  by  Mr.  Samuels;  they  give  faithful  and 
spirited  presentations  of  scenery,  angling  incident,  camp  life  and  sportsman 
travel.  No  expense  has  been  spared  to  make  the  work  an  art  volume  of  the 
highest  character.  480  pages,  150  plates.  Price  $5.00. 

FOREST    AND    STREAM     PUBLISHING     COMPANY, 
318    BROADWAY,    NEW    YORK. 


With  Fly-Rod  and  Camera.  By  EDWARD  A.  SAMUELS, 
President  of  the  Massachusetts  Fish  and  Game  Protective 
Association,  Author  of  the  ''Ornithology  and  Oology  of 
New  England  and  Adjacent  States  and  Provinces,"  "Among 
the  Birds,"  Associate  Editor  of  "  The  Living  World,"  etc., 
etc.  Cloth,  480  pages,  7X9/^in.,  147  illustrations,  Price, 
$5.00.  The  author  is  known  as  one  of  the  most  devoted 
and  expert  salmon  fishermen  of  America.  For  more  than  a 
quarter  century  he  has  made  annual  excursions  to  the 
famous  salmon  rivers  of  Canada,  and  the  trout  lakes  of  New 
England.  To  his  experience  as  a  salmon  angler  he  adds 
exceptional  skill  as  an  amateur  photographer,  having  for 
many  seasons  taken  his  photographic  outfit  with  him  into 
the  woods,  with  special  reference  to  the  preparation  of  this 
work.  It  is  as  an  art  volume  that  "With  Fly-Rod  and 
Camera  "  merits  special  distinction  The  illustrations  com- 
prise 147  full-page  plates,  which  are  direct  reproductions, 
by  a  half-tone  process,  of  Mr.  Samuels's  photographs.  In 
the  number  and  quality  of  its  illustrations,  "  With  Fly-Rod 
and  Camera"  is  the  most  elaborate  book  on  angling  ever 
issued  from  the  American  press.  The  subjects  include 
views  of  the  picturesque  scenery  of  Canada,  the  famous  sal- 
mon rivers  and  pools,  incidents  of  travel  and  camp  life, 
portraits  of  fish,  and  numerous  instantaneous  pictures  of 
actual  fishing,  among  them  being,  "  Time  for  the  Landing 
Net,"  * '  Lady  Macdonald  Casting  the  Fly,"  "Casting  from 
a  Canoe,'1  "A  Long  Cast,"  "  Landing  a  Salmon,"  "  Play- 
ing a  Winninish  on  Lake  St.  John,  etc.  The  views  of 
scenery  include  the  Saguenay,  Nepisiguit,  Matapedia,  Res- 
tigouche,  Cascapedia,  Margaree,  Jacquet,  Jeanot  and  Meta- 
betchouan  rivers;  famous  falls,  rapids  and  pools;  fishing 
cottages  and  camps;  fishing  parties  and  groups  of  guides; 
running  the  rapids  in  canoes,  portaging;  and  in  short  all 
the  various  phases  of  the  life  and  surroundings  which  make 
up  the  charm  and  delight  and  choice  memories  of  an 
angler's  outing.  The  volume  is  likewise  noteworthy  as  an 
example  of  the  rare  possibilities  of  amateur  photography. 
9 


The  material  for  the  several  chapters  has  been  drawn  from 
a  rich  store  of  information  acquired  by  the  author's  long  ex- 
perience; the  pages  fairly  bristle  with  hints  and  instructions, 
interspersed  with  anecdote  and  incident.  The  text,  with 
not  less  graphic  effect  than  the  illustrations,  pictures  every- 
day experience  in  what  is  incomparably  the  grandest  angling 
in  the  world.  Mr.  Samuels  writes  from  the  abundant  re- 
sources of  one  to  whom  every  wile  and  stratagem  of  the 
king  of  game  fish  are  familiar;  throughout  the  book  the 
reader  is  impressed  with  the  conviction  that  here  at  last  is  a 
book  on  salmon  fishing  written  by  a  thorough  master  of  the 
subject.  While  not  professing  to  prepare  a  manual  of  in- 
struction in  the  art,  the  author  of  "With  Fly- Rod  and 
Camera"  has  given  us  a  work  so  full  of  practical  guidance 
that  no  salmon  fisherman,  novice  or  expert,  can  afford  to 
leave  it  unread.  The  chapters  are  not  confined  to  the  sal- 
mon; as  in  camp  the  talk  wanders  to  one  and  another  topic 
called  up  by  magic  of  blazing  camp-fire  and  aroma  of  bal- 
sam, so  in  these  pages  the  author  leads  from  one  interesting 
topic  to  another,  discussing  the  ways  of  men  and  fish  in  a 
style  never  without  vivacity  and  fascination. 

House  and  Pet  Dogs;  THEIR  SELECTION,  CARE  AND 
TRAINING.  The  purpose  of  the  book  is  to  supply  hints  and 
instruction  concerning  the  management  of  house  and  pet 
dogs.  What  is  here  written  is  all  the  fruit  of  practical  and 
extended  experience  with  these  classes  of  dogs.  Several  of 
the  chapters  have  been  written  by  a  feminine  pen,  and  will 
be  especially  valued  by  ladies.  Price  50  cts. 

The  Fox-Terrier. .  History  and  Description,  with  Remi- 
niscences. By  R.  B.  LEE,  Kennel  Editor  London  Field. 
New  and  enlarged  edition.  Fifteen  portraits  and  illustra- 
tions; 1 80  pages.  The  book  is  very  pleasantly  written  and 
contains  a  vast  amount  of  useful  information  regarding  the 
history  and  characteristics  of  the  breed,  useful  not  only  to 
the  new  beginner  but  to  the  most  experienced  fancier  as 
well.  Price  $1.50. 


Book  of  tllC  Game  Laws.  A  Compendium  of  the  Laws 
of  the  United  States  and  of  Canada  Relating  to  Game  and 
Game  Fish.  Containing  the  full  text  of  all  important  sec- 
tions of  the  general  laws,  and  digests  of  local  laws.  Pub- 
lished quarterly  and  revised  to  date.  Price  50  cts.  Annual 
subscription  $2. 

Field,  Cover  and  Trap-Shooting.  ByCApr.  ADAM 
H.  BOGARDUS,  Champion  Wing  Shot  of  the  World.  Em- 
bracing hints  for  skilled  marksmen;  instructions  for  young 
sportsmen;  haunts  and  habits  of  game  birds;  flight  and  re- 
sorts of  water  fowl;  breeding  and  breaking  of  dogs.  With 
an  appendix.  Cloth,  493  pages.  Price  $2.  We  take  pleas- 
ure in  announcing  that  we  have  secured  the  rights  of  pub- 
lication of  this  famous  work.  It  is  a  book  by  a  master.  The 
name  of  Bogardus  is  synonymous  with  skill  in  shooting.  His 
place  has  been  at  the  head  of  skilled  handlers  of  'the  gun. 
"  Field,  Cover  and  Trap-Shooting"  is  a  book  of  instruction, 
and  of  that  best  of  all  instruction  where  the  teacher  draws 
from  his  own  rich  experience  incident,  anecdote  and  moral 
to  illustrate  and  emphasize  his  teaching. 

The  Spaniel  and  Its  Training.  By  F.  H.  F.  MERCER. 
To  which  are  added  the  American  and  English  Spaniel 
Standards.  Here  is  a  man  who  trained  his  dogs ;  learned  by 
experience  how  to  do  it;  and  now  has  put  down  that  ex- 
perience for  the  benefit  of  others.  Price  $i. 

Fly-Fishiiig  and  Fly-Making  for  Trout,  Etc. 

By  J.  HARRINGTON  KEENE.  With  plates  of  the  actual 
material  for  making  flies  of  every  variety.  Illustrated. 
Cloth,  113  pages.  Price  $1.50. 

The  Collie.  By  RAWDON  B.  LEE.  Illustrated.  A  handsome 
and  well  written  book.  Price  $1.50. 


DO   YOU    SHOOTP 


If  so,  do  you  shoot  a  GREENER  gun?  If  not,  why  not? 
They  are  the  hardest  hitting  and  closest  shooting  guns  in  the 
world  and  give  the  best  satisfaction.  We  have  a  large  stock 
of  these  justly  celebrated  guns  on  hand,  as  well  as  a  complete 
line  of  other  hammer  and  hammerless  guns  of  American,  Eng- 
lish, Belgian  and  German  manufacture.  You  should  read 
"Modern  Shot  Guns,"  by  W.  W.  Greener,  before  purchasing  a 
gun  of  any  kind.  It  is  the  most  comprehensive  work  on  shoot- 
ing ever  published.  Sent  postpaid  for  a  dollar. 

If  you  are  a  trap-shooter  we  would  call  your  attention  to  the 
Keystone  pigeons  and  traps.  I  have  been  appointed  sole  agent 
for  these  birds  for  New  York  and  vicinity,  and  will  quote  special 
prices  to  clubs  and  individuals  who  buy  in  large  quantities. 

Have  also  as  fine  a  line  of  picnic  baskets  and  camping  outfits 
as  can  be  found  in  America.  Sole  Eastern  agent  for  Rushton's 
canoes,  pleasure  boats,  launches  and  fittings — everything  to 
make  the  heart  of  a  canoeist  glad,  from  beautiful  canoe  jewelry 
to  the  still  more  beautiful  full-rigged  "Racer." 

Send  for  82-page  catalogue  of  boats. 

And  books:  We  have  nearly  every  book  published  about  guns, 
rifles  and  shooting,  angling,  camping,  yachting  and  sailing,  the 
kennel,  cycling,  and  every  kind  of  sport.  In  fact  we  keep  every- 
thing for  the  sportsman.  Stock  all  new,  bright  and  fresh  this 
season.  If  you  need  anything  whatever  in  our  line,  write  and 
get  prices  and  circulars  before  purchasing  elsewhere.  We  are 
headquarters  for  everything  for  forest,  field  and  stream. 

HENRY   C.   SQUIRES, 

178  Broadway,  New  York. 


THE  HAZARD  POWDER  CO., 

MANUFACTURERS    OF 

GUNPOWDER 

FOR 

SPORTING,  RIFLE  AND  TARGET  USE. 


HAZARD'S    "ELECTRIC"    POWDER. 

Nos.  1  (fine)  to  7  (coarse).  Unsurpassed  in  point  of  strength  and  cleanli- 
ness. Packed  in  square  canisters  of  1  Ib.  only. 

HAZARD'S    "DUCK"    SHOOTING. 

Nos.  1  (fine)  to  6  (coarse).  In  1  and  5  Ib.  canisters,  and  6^  and  12^  Ib.  kegs- 
Burns  slowly  and  very  clean,  shooting  remarkably  close,  and  with  great 
penetration.  For  field,  forest  or  water  shooting,  it  ranks  any  other  brand, 
and  is  equally  serviceable  for 

B3^° Muzzle  and  Breech-Loader  ^^fl 
HAZARD'S    "KENTUCKY    RIFLE." 

FFFG,  FFG  and  "Sea  Shooting,"  FG,  in  kegs  of  25, 12J^  and  6M  Ibs.,  cans  of 
5  Ibs.,  and  in  1  and  J^lb.  canisters.  Burns  strong  and  moist.  The  FFFG  and 
FFG  are  the  favorite  brands  for  ordinary  sporting,  and  the 

"SEA    SHOOTING,    FG," 

IS  THE  STANDARD  RIFLE  POWDER  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

It  was  used  by  the  American  team  at  Creedmoor  and  Dublin,  and  is  now 
universally  accepted  as  the  very  best  for  long-range  shooting. 

The  following  distinguished  Marksmen  recommend  and  habitually  use  it: 

COL.  BODINE,   MAJOR  FULTON,   MESSRS.  RATHBONE,    JEWELL,    HEP- 
BURN,   ANDERSON,    JUDD,    BRUCE,    BALLARD, 

FARWELL  and  others. 

It  is  well  adapted  for  all  classes  of  breech-loaders,  and  especially  for 
''Remington  Long  Range  (Creedmoor)  Rifles." 
We  invite  the  attention  of  Sportsmen  to 

HAZARD'S    "TRAP"    POWDER, 

Our  latest  production.  It  is  strong,  moist  burning,  and  combines  a  maxi- 
mum propelling  power  with  a  minimum  recoil  and  strain  upon  the  gun. 
Specially  adapted  to  Trap  Shooting,  and  sold  at  a  moderate  price.  This 
nowder  is  meeting  with  universal  favor  among  expert  shots  and  leading 
gun  clubs  of  the  country. 

^~  When  ordering  shells  insist  that  they  lie  loaded  with  Hazard 
Powder.  Send  for  card  showing  sizes  of  grain. 

Office,  63  Pine  Street,  New  York. 

R.  L.  WHEELER,  PBES.  GEO.  WEIGHTMAN,  SEC'Y. 

WM.  S.  COLVIN,  VICE-PBES.  AND  TBEAS. 

14 


ffiSES.%.  !  out  mm  HEPTD1IE  ANCHOR  IORKS. 

DE  GRAUW,  AYMAR  &  CO., 

Manufacturers  and  Importers  of 

Cordage,  Oakum,  Wire  Rope, 
Chains,  Anchors,  Oars,  Blocks, 

BUNTINGS,  FLAGS,  COTTON  &  FLAX  DUCKS, 
RUSSIA  BOLT  ROPE,  MARINE  HARDWARE, 

AND 

SHIP    CHANDLERS'    GOODS    GENERALLY. 
34  &  35  SOUTH  STREET, 

NEW    YORK. 

Orange  Sporting  Powder. 

(ORANGE    MILLS,  Established  1808.) 
MANUFACTURED  BY 

Laflin  &  Rand  Powder  Co. 

ORANGE  RIFLE, 

ORANGE  SPECIAL, 

ORANGE  DUCKING, 

ORANGE  LIGHTNING. 

The  lost  Poplar  Powder  in  Use,  Of  Snperior  Excellence, 

SEND    POSTAL     CARD    FOR    ILLUSTRATED    PAMPHLET 
SHOWING    SIZES    OF   GRAINS.     MAILED 


NEW   YORK    OFFICE:    29    MURRAY   STREET. 

BRANCH    OFFICES: 

ST.  Louis,  Mo.;    CHICAGO,  ILL.;    DUBUQUE,  IOWA.;    CINCINNATI,  OHIO; 
BALTIMORE,  MD.;    PITTSBURGH,  PA.;    DENVER,  COL. 

For  sale  generally  throughout  the  United  States. 


PECK    &    SNYDER, 

124,  126  &  128  Nassau  Street, 

NEW     YORK. 

HEADQUARTERS  TOR  ALT.  KINDS  OF 

SPORTING  GOODS 

FISHING   TACKLE, 

Fencing  Goods,  Base  Ball,  Lawn  Tennis,  Archery  t 
Cricket,  Gymnasium  Outfits,  Etc. 


Best  Trout  Flies,  75  cents  Per  Dozen. 

"      Bass         "        $1.5O  *<          " 

Hooks  to  Out,         3O  cents      "          " 


Pleasure  and  Profit. 

THE  LATEST  AND  MOST  FASCINATING 
RECREATION,     A  COPY  OF 

'Hoi  to  Me  Piotenrapb," 

With  DescriptivetCatalogue, 

Sent  without  charge  to  any  one  interested 
in  Amateur  Photography. 

Swill  &  Allii  Co., 

Manufacturers  of  and  Dealers  in 

Photographic  Materials, 

423  Broome  St.,  N.  Y. 

AMATEUR  OUTFITS  supplied  from  $2.50  up- 
ward in  price,  with  which  PICTURES  of 
the  highest  excellence  can  be  made. 


16 


VB  10285 


